BB7 to hydraulics -...
 

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[Closed] BB7 to hydraulics - will I see a benefit?

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Towards the end of my coaching day yesterday (so wet and gritty) I found myself running out of brakes (running BB7s - 180mm rotors both ends - with Speed Dial levers) at times - they were working fine but just not providing enough stopping power.

First time I have experienced this and it was hairy enough in the 'controlled' conditions I was riding in - would have been pretty scary out on the trail I think.

So two questions

1 - will I see enough of an increase in braking power if I get some hydraulics to make the investment worth it?

2 - what 'mid-range' hydraulics does the STW hive mind recommend?

Thanks.

slainte ❓ rob


 
Posted : 08/07/2012 3:18 pm
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those new shimano deores seem to be the go-to bargain hydro.


 
Posted : 08/07/2012 3:20 pm
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Yes. I stuck with BB7's for ages.

Get yourself some Shimano Deores - cheap and do the job nicely. For a few more adjustments and lighter Xt's.


 
Posted : 08/07/2012 3:22 pm
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Bumpage for the evening crowd.

slainte 🙂 rob


 
Posted : 08/07/2012 6:59 pm
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Any opinions on Avid Codes?

slainte ❓ rob


 
Posted : 09/07/2012 6:56 am
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You'll notice an increase in power with decent hydros and the pads will self adjust so you do not run out of brake half way round a ride. More faff when they go wrong though.


 
Posted : 09/07/2012 7:27 am
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My short answer to the whole question would be - no.

If you need more stopping power, get a bigger front rotor.


 
Posted : 09/07/2012 7:35 am
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Hydraulic is a decent step up. This year's Deore (m596) have also been impressively upgraded from the last incarnation, they feel like last year's SLX! The lever is 1 finger too, they can sit on the outside of your shifters and feel right.

Also look out for SLX m665 if you can find any end of line deals.

You'll not have a problem selling the BB7s, CX people love 'em.

Avid/Hayes are ok, but Shimano are great. It's nice not handling DOT fluid too, mineral oil is safer for you/your bike and works just fine.


 
Posted : 09/07/2012 8:17 am
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Thanks for the responses. Reading these and the other BB7 thread running I have one more (for now) question.

The BB7s need careful setting up for best power and this means pretty close tolerance between pad and disc which leads to occasional rubbing and clogging problems in muddy and gritty conditions - are hydraulics more forgiving in their set up?

slainte ❓ rob


 
Posted : 11/07/2012 6:54 am
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Some are some are crap

(ready to be violently corrected)
My Hope Tech m4's were set and forget. Change pads and slight tweak to bite point control on the lever if you want then go.


 
Posted : 11/07/2012 6:57 am
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The BB7s need careful setting up for best power and this means pretty close tolerance between pad and disc which leads to occasional rubbing and clogging problems in muddy and gritty conditions

this is wrong and negates the main benefit of the BB7s imho.

I run BB7s for the opposite of this - with speed dial levers and decent cables I can run a bigger gap between pad and rotor because of the extra leverage provided by the dialed in SD lever - hence I have less mud and clogging issues.

And I have my levers mounted inside the shifters on my bars and so have single finger braking.

I believe the shimano servo-wave hydro brakes also provides a bigger gap betwixt pad and rotor and would probably be the only ones I would consider going to, and they are mineral oil.


 
Posted : 11/07/2012 7:12 am
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Interesting TurnerGuy - I have SD levers but don't really fiddle with the red dial. Looks like maybe I should before I get the plastic out for some Shimano hydraulics (would be the first bit of Shimano kit on my bike).

slainte ❗ rob


 
Posted : 11/07/2012 3:06 pm
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maybe that is why people complain about pad wear and having to adjust often - they don't take advantage of the extra gap possible?


 
Posted : 11/07/2012 3:48 pm
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Do it, if you already have rotors then Rose bikes are/were doing SLX for £110 and XT for £125 (they're basicly the same appart from some adjustments I never use).

I thought my C2's were far better than BB7's 8 years ago. And every set of brakes I've had since then has been an improvement both in terms of power and modulation. As for maintenance, I bleed my brakes probably mroe often than most (I like a good faff in the shed) and it's possibly quicker than changeing a gear cable and that's the only maintenance a good set needs!

I'd say either Hope or Shimano. Hope seem more marmite in terms of setup, but I love the lever feel of mine and they've been flawlessly reliable and spares backup is 2nd to none. Shimano seem more consistent in terms of setup and veryone likes them but there are no spares, if a caliper seal blows (mine did after 5 years) then it's time for a new calliper. On the plus side, they're dirt cheep compared to most brands and most callipers/levers are interchangeable so if you buy XT now and in 5 years time they develop a fault a deore part will probably fit.


 
Posted : 11/07/2012 3:53 pm
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I go between Juicy 5s and a bike with BB7 front/formula k18 rear. Not sure if better hydros would make more of a difference but I don't notice a huge amount of difference in power between the two. The only difference is the BB7s are more "on-off" and easier to lock up.


 
Posted : 11/07/2012 3:57 pm
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shimano brakes FTW.

codes would be over kill, IMO.


 
Posted : 11/07/2012 4:14 pm
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Shimamo SLX M666 insane power for an xc brake.


 
Posted : 11/07/2012 5:43 pm
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Have decided to stick with the BB7s for a bit, but seeing if I can beef them up a bit with Full Metal Jacket cables and a 200mm front disc (currently running 180mm both ends).

slainte ❗ rob


 
Posted : 14/07/2012 8:11 pm

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