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I've got a new Cannondale CAAD10 frame winging its way to me. Unlike some I've never had a problem with BB30 but I'd like to use my old Shimano 105 crankset for the time being.
It seems that the [url= http://www.praxiscycles.com/conversion-bb/ ]Praxis[/url] conversion BB is highly regarded but has any one tried the [url= http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/kcnc-bb30-bottom-bracket-to-shimano-adaptor-road-68-mm-prod33009/ ]KCNC[/url] version?
The KCNC version is about half the price but I'd rather pay for the Praxis one than suffer an eternal creak.
Anything else I should consider (other than buying BB30 cranks)?
I've got a KCNC adapter BB in my S-Works Epic as the lbs did not have the correct Praxis one in stock at the time. Zero problems and its done a good few hundred miles although mainly in the dry as its my summer bike.
Wheels Mfg Conversion BBs are nice, and tend to silence creaky set-ups.
I'm currently using the Wheels PF30 BB and BB30/HT2 nylon adapters on my Super Six Evo and Ultegra cranks, simply because I had them already
no problems with creaking after several months, but as soon as the bearings die I will buy the Praxxis conversion BB as I've used these on several MTB's with great results
Just whack [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-bb30-threaded-adapter-b3119-/rp-prod129935?gs=1&gclid=COb73v7zjcoCFWQTwwodT4wMrA&gclsrc=aw.ds ]this [/url] in it and use a ht2 bb.
using a Praxis on a Cannondale - work perfect,
cannot see any reason that that KCNC job wouldn't be as good
Hope also make one if that's of any help.
Using Wheels Mfg on my Dale and its solved the creaking from the axle to inner bearing race metal to metal contact.
I tried the Praxis one on my CAADX, unfortunately there is a machined ridge inside the bb shell into which the cable guide screws. This prevents the adapter going through, after some searching I happened across the Rotor version, this has a pronounced step that clears the inner ridge. Just so you're aware, the Cannondale and Praxis websites both suggested the Praxis would fit. After all that the creaking was a dry seatpost, numpty.
Neila, that's interesting info, thanks.
The cable guide you mention, is that for internal cable routing or a guide that bolts on to the underside of the BB shell?
It's the external guide under the bb shell. Internally it sits proud by around 4mm prohibiting the Praxis adapter sliding through, it's very difficult getting proper engineering drawings of components ti ensure they fit. Ends up being bleeding trial and error unless someone on here can help.
Echo the comments about the machined bump. I've also got a once creaky CAADX fixed via a Wheels Manufacturing thingumybob. The adapter needs a step in it to accommodate the bump. I was going to glue in one of those cheap FSA sleeves but it wouldn't clear the burmp (best Clouseau impression).
I wouldn't piss about trial and erroring. The Wheels one fits, the FSA one doesn't. Any one that matches or has similar dims to the Wheels should do it. Get the rebate position and depth measured and if it's similar, you're away. Also check the derailleur hanger bolts are correctly torqued and threadlocked as I had a double creak due to this and the dratted BB30.
The frame in question is a 2015 CAAD 10 Black Inc. Disc which has all the cable routing through the BB shell:
[img] 
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It's all a bit busy in there!
It looks like I may have to use the Wheels BB30/HT2 nylon adapters as there may not be the clearance for anything else.
Wellll... The nylon Shimano push in thingumybobs in one of my road frames are still silent after much encouragement whilst the BB30 equivalent in the Cannondale needed fettling within 500 miles. You might be OK and they are a lot cheaper. It's got to be worth a go. Do check the derailleur hanger bolts though as mine were slightly loose and this created a secondary maddening creak.
Hey dude, I have exactly the same problem. Just picked up my 2015 caad10 disc black inc last week. You figured out if there is enough clearance for the praxis or adapters like that? I was looking at the rotor bb30-bb24, but looks like it will foul on the brake hose or internal guide.
I have just run into this as well.
Had my praxis ready to go, but its flush the whole way at the bb30 42mm or whatever so no luck.
I have just ordered the rotor BB, as it has a narrower center section... i will report back if anyone is interested.
I ended up avoiding the whole problem by buying a BB30 crankset.
Alternatively the Wheels Mfg reducer cups which sit inside normal BB30 bearings would certainly work.
I use the Rotor one in my caad10, creak free and has clearance for cables to pass through bb
Yep can also confirm the Rotor works just fine.
I did notice that the gear cables running inside the frame are probably resting on the hydraulic brake cable... i didn't much like the idea of them slowly wearing through as they move back and forth so i ran them through some shift cable inner. Kinda seems like that is the intended assembly but my frame didn't come with any. So i cut open some shift cables myself.
Which of the wheels manufacturing bb do I need to run a standard shimano mtb xtr crank with a cannondale fs-i BB30 MTB bottom bracket?
The Wheels Manufacturing ones don't seem to list a road and/or mtb bb, but road is 68mm wide and mtb is 73mm. Or at least with a normal ht2 mtb bb you need a different number of spacers to work with either 68/73mm.
[url= http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb30-outboard/bb30-outboard-bottom-brackets/bb30-to-outboard-bottom-bracket-for-24mm-cranks-shimano-black.html ]This one[/url] I fitted one of these to a CAADX and it's fantastic. You'll see it adjusts for road/MTB, no need for spacers.
I just put the FSA sleeve into my CAAD X. To avoid the bump issue I cut it in to 2 pieces and pressed either side in with a headset press using the loctite solution supplied with the sleeve. I've now got an ultegra bottom bracket in and it's working perfectly so far.
That's not a bad idea but I'd be concerned about the two bits wiggling about independently. After suffering lot's of aggro leading up to the change, I dint want to risk perpetuating the problem by dicking around with the fix.
2 weeks and a couple of hundred miles later and my bodge seems to be going strong with no signs of creaks etc. It's not been getting the same abuse from the weather as the BB30 had over the winter but all in all it seems pretty good so far. I'm tempted to say that if the adapter hasn't moved or slipped by now then it's probably not going to (cursed it now).