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Hi,
I am in the process of converting my MTB to drop bars.
I have a ritchey beacon bar and was intending on routing the cables from bar end shifters under the bar tape.
Just wondering if the shape might have a detrimental effect on the shifting quality.
What do you think?
Don't think so. I'm running a Sram bar end shifter with an Apex-1x RD. Cable routing is outside the bars, covered by the bartape. Shifting has been great from day one. Don't particularly feel the cable when in the drops either...
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Are you talking about the difference between routing the cable all the way up the bar to near the stem, compared to having it emerge from the tape where the drops curve upwards?
Aye, just a bit worried the curve on the beacon might be a bit tight.
It's a tight radius being a short reach and drop bar.
I'd post a pic if I could work out how.
Also, are they TRP Hylex brakes?
@gs_triumph - I think the bars are Salsa Cowbell 2s
@montgomery - yes, TRP Hylex's. They're brill...
Did you have to swap the hoses over between the levers? How is parts availability, bleeding, etc? Apologies for the hijack.
I’ve used the same shifter and mech with the cable routed outside the tape and inside the tape all the way up to the stem.
Couldn’t detect a difference in several thousand miles.
@montgomery - didn't need to swap any hoses. Bike came as a singlespeed, so simply had to run the shifter cable behind the brake hood clamps and out on the tops. TRP parts available here: https://www.upgradebikes.co.uk/catalogue/results.aspx?search=Trp
Not had to bleed them in 4-5 years of use.
curve looks like it would be fine to me, less tight than plenty of loops to the rear derailleur on older style mechs. when you put the cable outer in place (insulating tape it in place every couple of inches, before you apply the bar tape) it'll "show" you the curve around the bar it wants to follow to smooth out the tightest curves.
All the way under the tape.
Use good outer. I stuck a cable oiler in the outer after it emerges so I can blast a bit of lube in occasionally. But it's alot less sensitive to cables than an STI.
Thanks guys,
I ordered a shimano road gear optislick cable set, I'm a little worried there's not enough housing in the set. There's only 1.7m of outer which I'm convinced won't be enough for both front and back.
Concerned it might not even be enough for the back.
Any idea what length cables are required (roughly, not allt he same I guess)
Can depend on the shifters. Microshift bar-ends for MTB gearing don't shift/cope as well with the cable under the tape ime, better the trad way out front. Shimano shifters with Shimano cables are fine.
As @nedrapier suggests I can set it all up with electrical tape and make a call after that. It can all be rerouted easily enough.
Just nice to get it right first time 😃
How is parts availability, bleeding, etc?
I've bled my hylexes I think once in the about 5 years I've had them. It was no problem. Shimano fluid and pads. I think I also replaced a hose with an aftermarket one.
Parts availability can be an issue - I needed some small parts not stocked by upgrade so got them from TRP direct, but the cost was bonkers for what they were with shipping, taxes etc. However, this shouldn't be a common occurrence.
The Hylex's are really good. Have the Di2 climbing switches on mine, using the TRP adapter so that the switch sits on the inside of the hood. Fantastic.
Have also had no problems running cables for barends all the way round the bars. (SRAM TT shifter)