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Looks like Tidworth from that picture?
Looks mint..
Aston hill?
No, that's the downhill mecca known as Sherwood Pines!
couple of quick questions as looking at a 2016 frame
thoughts on ccdb vs the monarch - im inclined to head towards the monarch as dont like fiddling (current is a float x)
Have a set of talas 36's so looking at chaiing them to floats but should i go for 150 or 160?
riding is FOD off piste - nothing over gnar
Last one, would you invisiframe the black ones...my bikecarrier has rubbed away my raw ali on my current bike
cheers
1 - CCDB - once sorted you leave it alone. I have a coil DB and an AirCS DB. I don't even use the CS on the Air.
2 - 160mm. Had 150mm Pikes, went to 160mm and it's loads better. Gives a little slacker HA and a bit more clearance for the crank/rock interfaces (I went to 170mm for the 2016 frame over the 175mm on my 2015)
3 - Everything is gnar on a Spitfire. Even the ups.
4 - No Invisiframe on a black ano. As it's burnished (~99% of the surface, other 1% is the graphics) I don't think it'll stick well, will look shit, and it's a very tough finish. I use black 1" Gorilla tape on the head tube, top of the down tube and the brace between the chain and seat stays to protect from cable rub. Also a few wraps of black gaffer tape on the down tube where the Thule carrier clamps the frame.
Thanks TG - as usual the hive mind is correct, i checked the invisiframe website and listed under the spitfire is
This product is NOT suitable for frames with an anodized finish.
Hmm still not sure on the CCDB as they are
Monarch = £1200
CCDB = £1400
are they £200 better/im a cr@p rider would i notice!
Is it the CCDB or CCDBInline? If the full CCDB then yes, definitely worth the extra, the inline not so much!
I have the inline on mine and while it's a good shock when working it does take a bit of setting up. Also, the while working thing is not a joke, I'm trying to work out if I should spend £180 (+anything that's broken as mine sounds very poorly at present) with TFTuned servicing and updating to the new DBIL spec, or suck it up and buy a Float X2.
Cane Creek did me a warranty upgrade on an 18 month old InLine to the AirCS with black tube for 75 dollah. Worth it. InLine was brilliant when it worked, but 3x failures wasn't good.
Who did you contact for that TG?
CC website states that shocks have a 1yr warranty.
Contacted them directly and they said in the UK it was 2 years (TFT stated 1 year). Used this correspondence with TFT to get it sorted twice. Never used it after the last time fixed - went back to CC after they sent the warranty replacement.
I was given the choice of AirCS, Coil CS or CoilIL. As I had a second hand Coil after the chew on with the inline I went AirCS
I think with the latest upgrades (which can all be done during a service) I'd dare get a DBinline but I wouldn't have done a year ago! I can't fault the DBair I've had in my Spitfire for three years.
My Spitfire is now in its eighth geometric iteration (more if you count sagged variations too)! Started out with a 160mm Pike, 27.5 dropouts and 27.5 wheels. Swapped between neutral and slack a fair bit, tried it in steep too. Messed around with different amounts of sag too, the shock varying little (25-28%) but the fork anywhere between 10% and 30%. Settled on 20% front, 25% rear.
Got some 26" dropouts a year or so ago to try shorter chainstays (427-431 instead of 437-441mm). Haven't swapped back from them.
Shortened the Pike to 150mm and put in a -2 deg Works headset last autumn. Added a Luftkappe too. Rode it in the slack setting until yesterday, tried neutral today. Really nice!
Original geometry (neutral):
HA: 66.2
SA: 73.7
BB height: 348mm
Reach: 424mm
Chainstay: 439mm
Wheelbase: 1171mm
Current geometry (neutral):
HA: 64.6
SA: 74.6
BB height: 341mm
Reach: 430mm
Chainstay: 429mm
Wheelbase: 1178mm
Mine's a 2014. I think the 2016 & 2017 versions have a lower BB and steeper seat angle, similar to what I've achieved with the slackset (but without the super slack head angle).
I'm very much liking all the new and new-old ones on here - I love how you can tweak them so well to suit how you want to ride!
Hahaha. ^^^^^^^^^ I've pretty much done the same. Superstar 2 deg slack set, 150 pikes, kept the 27.5 dropouts and removed the air assembly and inserted a coil (from CRConceptions) for the pike. Off to BPW Weds for first ride in anger with new fork set-up. Must say, just from riding down the street, it's feels awesome. Only problem is, it make the rear end feel like wood!!!!!!
I was pretty curious about those coil conversions but struggle with indecision about spring weights. I highly recommend any Pike owners get a Luftkappe put in at their next service, it's a great improvement. Amazing to think the Spitfire v2 came out in 2013 when you compare the geometry to current bikes - ahead of its time! I swear its KS-link suspension is one of the best designs on the market.
I've been riding it to work this week and then have a three day weekend in Wales, with two days of uplift (BMCC and BPW). It is riding SO well. DBair @ 150psi (25% sag), 150mm Luftkappe'd Pike @ 90psi (20% sag).
I put 800mm SixC bars on for away trips and everything about the fit and handling is so much better for me than with the 740mm bars I use locally due to excessively narrow tree gaps. Maybe I'll try them again in Stanmer and see if the pros outweight the cons for me...
The combination of the longer front-centre due to the sub 65 deg head angle, the mid-stroke support from the Luftkappe and the stability and control from those big bars (they actually measure 810mm with the DMR Deathgrips I use) means I can ride in such a positive centred attacking position. Really looking forward to three days of shredding despite the rather wet forecast*!
*I may have bought some new goggles with roll-offs. 🙂
BPW this weekend here. Will be running the DBCoil with 450lb Ti spring, 160mm Pikes and will probably switch from neutral to slack. Was thinking Luftkappe, but maybe next pay day.
BPW this weekend here. Will be running the DBCoil with 450lb Ti spring, 160mm Pikes and will probably switch from neutral to slack. Was thinking Luftkappe, but maybe next pay day.
I'm there on the Saturday!
Sat and Sun! Black Spitfire and a few of us wearing orange Chopwell jerseys. Should be easy to spot!
How much sag are people running? 2016 frame with 19mm of sag here on float evol, but not usually using full travel with no volume spacers.
Whoops - 2016 black frame en route from Global bikes. Great deal and dealing with Rich there was excellent - he even replied to an email at 10:00 last night. 😀
8)
first ride hopefully next week in the quantocks
How much sag are people running? 2016 frame with 19mm of sag here on float evol, but not usually using full travel with no volume spacers.
I just checked and I'm at about 13.5-14mm seated sag on my DBair. These are the sag charts for the original KS-link bikes:
http://bansheebikes.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/ks-link-bike-sag-charts.html
So that's about 27-29% sag for me. At 19mm you're running a bit over 35% sag which seems like a lot - but so much depends on your riding style downhill and how you weight the bike.
v666ern - Member
Whoops - 2016 black frame en route from Global bikes. Great deal and dealing with Rich there was excellent - he even replied to an email at 10:00 last night.first ride hopefully next week in the quantocks
You won't be disappointed!
Thanks momo, going to apologise now for the green finishing kit in advance 😳
Well....today was a tad wet at BPW. So wet it was actually grippy! Just had to watch out for roots! Vicious Valley/Bonneyville/Insufficient Funds riding awesome. New coil in Pikesis one of best things I've done to this bike. Playful, supple in initial and mid stroke without that wallow feeling. Bottomed out twice, both times on gap down Vicous Valley, but interestingly not on step downs on Insufficient Funds. I'm gonna be needing a cane creek now!!! Bike also felt really stable with longer wheelbase and not lost any of its playful ability.
I got chance to ride a Trek Remedy 9 RSL which my mate had hired for day from the BPW shop. Good bike but no where near as good as my Spittie in its current form. It also felt really short (it was a large). I'm 6'1" and riding a 2015 Spittie, which is also a large. Trek's sizings seem to be way off for 2017.
A banshee technical question- i thought i'd use this thread rather than the New Spitfire one.
Does anyone know which 1.5" Hope lower cup fits a 2016 Rune, for a tapered steerer, with the lowest stack height? I have options of:
BOTTOM 1.5 TRADITIONAL (44.0) - H
BOTTOM 1.5 TRADITIONAL (49.57) - F
BOTTOM 1.5 INTEGRAL (54.9) - G
BOTTOM 1.5 INTEGRAL (55.9) - E
Google has so far failed me... 😕
Sorry, already posted this on previous "New Banshee Spitfire" thread, but still looking for a bit of guidance;
2015 Spitty owner here!
Currently running 150mm Sektor Gold forks, considering some Pikes, should I go 160mm or stay on 150mm?
Any advice greatly appreciated... cheers.
I ran my 2015 initially with 26" wheels, 160mm Lyriks. Moved to 150mm 650b Pikes. Wasn't until I got my current 2016 that I eventually increased the travel to 160mm with a new air shaft. It helps slacken the front end, and gets back a little ground clearance to avoid pedal strikes.
Ultimately, 160mm suits, although there are a2c differences between brands at the same wheel size and travel and also between models of the same brand but different wheel sizes.
I'm guessing the Sektors came on a full 650b build? Pikes will be more noticeable straight away as they are loads stiffer and the charger is a better damper than MoCo. Personally I'd go 160mm Pikes and if you don't get on with it get a 150mm air shaft.
Nice one TG, 160mm Pikes it is!
Does anyone know which 1.5" Hope lower cup fits a 2016 Rune, for a tapered steerer, with the lowest stack height? I have options of:BOTTOM 1.5 TRADITIONAL (44.0) - H
BOTTOM 1.5 TRADITIONAL (49.57) - F
BOTTOM 1.5 INTEGRAL (54.9) - G
BOTTOM 1.5 INTEGRAL (55.9) - E
Google has so far failed me...
It's a 44/56 headset so I think it's E.
How are people getting on with the DB inline?
Mine has a noticeable clunk as the shock starts to move. TF inform me this is normal for the shock and is because of air moving between chambers.
Do other people notice this? I know nothing about shock set up, is there any way to improve it?
Not sure how the inline compares internally with the db air, but when my db air had a noticeable clunk at the start of its travel, the innards were falling apart and it needed rebuilding. I've had it fixed twice, once at TF tuned, and once by Jake at Sprung Suspension. Sprung did a FAR better job
I had a clunk on the db in-line, it was broke. Happened once and got internal upgrades on warranty then I got a fox after having to pay for a second fix on the ccdb. Then cane Creek released a new version..
So, some further ponderings on Spitfire set-up. I put a Luftkappe in a few months ago but last week was the first time I went anywhere with a significant amount of rocks. I think I've learnt quite a bit about fork set-up (and omfg the arm pump!)
Basically it took me ages to get my 160mm Pike feeling right first time around, and I settled on 15-20% sag, no tokens and middling LSC and rebound. I'd tried everything from 10-30% sag and up to two tokens but this gave me the best midstroke support (I don't like forks diving) whilst using the travel when I wanted it to - cornering I tend to be forward or centred but when I hit rough stuff I usually ride more off the back so I'm not that hard on the fork on a full-sus.
The Luftkappe kind of threw me because it made the fork so plush at the start of the travel and I couldn't get used to it sitting so far sagged (even though it holds up once you're riding) so over the past weeks I've pumped it up more and more - and then I rode Afan with too much pressure in it and my hands/arms hurt (and I only used about 80mm of the travel!) I can't remember where the sag was, maybe 15%? It's now at 150mm travel btw.
I dropped the pressure the next day at BMCC (go there, it's awesome!) and then again at BPW on the final day, but by noon my arms were suffering from the cumulative battering. It was feeling pretty good by then but I came away thinking that with the Luftkappe I could approach things differently.
I went from 160 to 150mm travel to lower the BB and steepen the seat angle (the head angle is stupid slack because it has a -2 deg headset). I remember my LBS saying why don't I just run the 160 with more sag but I explained I didn't like it feeling soggy and plungey - with more than 20% sag that's what normal Pikes seem to do under me.
My room mate on the trip also has a Pike and is a similar weight to me (a bit lighter but goes bigger) so they're set up similarly. Side by side it's very obvious that it takes a shove to get his moving but then it's pretty soft until well into the travel. Mine is very soft at the start and then gets pretty firm feeling much sooner. So that's the Luftkappe difference.
So instead of running my 150mm Pike at 20% sag, why don't I run it at 160mm and 25% sag - that gives the exact same sagged geometry but gives me a bit more negative and positive travel to handle the gnar and lets me run it a bit softer so I can use more of the fork. I can then use more LSC when riding locally and plushness is less important than pumping and run the fork more open when hitting the rocks.
I rode Afan in the neutral dropout position and that worked great - those techy rocky climbs need some pedal clearance and it's not that steep or fast. Dropped it to slack a few uplifts in at BMCC and w00t! proper awesome mini DH bike.
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So i've finally got my Banshee out on some proper trails, the quantocks were beautiful. Ran it with the steep dropouts and it was really good, legs are knackered after 18miles though!
Bike is made up from parts from my Jimbo so spank wheels and 36's and a new fox transfer post.
Big thanks to Rich at Globalbike in Chester for answering daft emails at 22-00 and then slam69 for building it up.
Hopefully off to dartmoor this weekend to try out the neutral setting 8)
Does anyone know if the chrome head badge can be removed or where i can get a black version. Trying to de-colour the black ano version and it grates me.
Have got slik sending black 36 graphics and a new black oval chain ring coming.
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edit - stoopid picture rotation
Hey, I believe the head badge is just a transfer, so it should peel off. I think a little corner of the one on mine has started to go. As for getting a black replacement, maybe send ison an email?
This is my Spitfire;
-CCDB inline (Wheezy as anything)
-Fox Float 34s (Stealth)
-Stans Flows on Hope Pro4s
-Xt groupset and brakes
-Reverb dropper
Rides like an absolute dream.
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I think the stealth logo is there under the chrome transfer...
Nice bikes!
Someone peel their chrome headbadge off to see if it is stealth underneath...
Just found this in an email from Keith @ Banshee:
"The stealth now has a decal for headtube, but if you remove it the stealth graphic is still there (our stealth frames don’t have decals). So gives rider the choice to keep it or loose it."
Hmmm. I'll report back tonight, then!
Interesting! Although I do quite like the silver, so I think Ill keep it.
Where are you planning on going on the moor v666ern? There are a few quite fun loose descents to be had! (wouldn't recommend the slack low setting for it though.. quite a bit of pedal strike)
bwall, depends on timing with family but hoping for manaton, water, lustleigh then out onto the moor...my knowledge is limited so following gpx's! alternatively something nr south brent exploring.
Thanks for the info on the head badge, it grates me as i have silver T1 brakes which arent helping 😳
Interested in this loose descents, fee free to send me a gpx/strava me and i can rip one off! 😉 😀
Sounds like a good ride! The places I've ridden tend to be further south around Princetown. This is the descent I was thinking of [url= https://www.strava.com/segments/1008062 ]Widowmaker[/url].
On a more bike related note. Does anyone else find the CCDB inline to be really very wheezy?
bwall - Member
On a more bike related note. Does anyone else find the CCDB inline to be really very wheezy?
Yep, mine sounds like a cross between a wheeze and a squelch
cross between a wheeze and a squelch
Pretty good description of it. Its also started returning to full travel with a clunk whenever I unweight/hop the bike. Not the most encouraging thing. Had me looking at a Float X.
Sounds like a good ride! The places I've ridden tend to be further south around Princetown. This is the descent I was thinking of Widowmaker.
Lol yep, done it twice once in the snow and once in torrential rain...dry you say!?!
Yep i've got the slurp as well, coming from the last version float x as well but happy to give it sometime first...well until it inevitably dies and i have to warranty it 😕
Yep have done it in the dry before, I wouldnt say dusty.. but not far off. I find the loose rocks and ruts great fun.
What I would say, if you can ignore the noise the shock can feel amazing. (Until it dies)
My CCDB Air used to wheeze and squelch - the internals were forked. After getting fixed at Sprung Suspension it doesn't do it at all. Maybe the inline's all sound like this but it doesn't sound right to me.
To all asking if your cane creek shocks should be wheezing and squelching, no, no they should not. Mine was doing this, sent it for a service, internals basically replaced for new version and all is good again. It seems the earlier versions were/are a touch fragile, being polite about it...
Headtube decals - 2016 Black Ano.
Took the little accent off of the top of the 'B'. Looked burnished underneath. Think I'll leave the rest alone.
Took the little accent off of the top of the 'B'. Looked burnished underneath. Think I'll leave the rest alone.
Ah thats a shame! Maybe its something they changed recently.
Just got myself a raw finish 2017 Spitfire. It's brilliant, even with my old Fox forks.
I'm trying to work out if the decals are above or below the clear coat. Ison say they're under it, but looking at the frame I'm not so sure.... unless the clear coat is really thin
I'd be surprised if they were under it
Just given the bike a wash. There's a definite difference in the surface feel between the decal and the frame which is quite obvious when it's wet and you run your finger over it. The decals squeak!
Now Banshee themselves say the decals are under the clear coat..
The Raw frames have a clear coat which is applied last over the decals.
And in regards to applying helitape or similar
A protective layer is used by some on all frames, however it may be less important on the raw as it won’t show scratches like a painted frame will. You shouldn’t have any issues with decals peeling if you with to use such a product.
I think as it must be thin clear coat, hence the difference in feel between frame and decal
MOMO, nice set up on your spitfire! Just wondering what size width 27.5 maxxis minion you have on the back if you are using 26" dropouts? cheers
I've got 26" dropouts on mine too and have run 27.5x2.3 DHR2, Shorty and Minion SS (DHR2 is the default). There's only one small rear triangle cross brace that is close-ish to the tyre, but that's so small it doesn't usually collect much mud or clog, plenty of space everywhere else. Had it with the shorter dropouts for a year and a bit, 27.5 ones before that.
So. A mate has a Rune, I have a Spitfire (both 2016MY).
The upper KS link on a Spitfire is stamped 'S' and the Rune 'R'. Could a Rune top link be added to a Spitfire, along with a 216x63mm (or whatever it is) and make a 160mm Spitfire?
It's a 2.4 wide trail DHR2 on there at the moment, it's tight but I haven't had any rub issues as yet
So, apparently my Prime frame is due to land this week, so I should get my sticky mitts on it by the end of next! I can't wait!!
Has anyone has tried a 2.5" or 2.6" tyre in the rear of a 2017 frame running 27.5" wheels?
The upper KS link on a Spitfire is stamped 'S' and the Rune 'R'. Could a Rune top link be added to a Spitfire, along with a 216x63mm (or whatever it is) and make a 160mm Spitfire?
I highly doubt it - I wouldn't be surprised if the lower link is the only common part (if indeed it is!)
There's tons of space in the back of my 2014 frame with the standard dropouts, I'd be amazed if a 2.6" tyre didn't fit.
cracked my 2nd spitfire out here in Whis, so getting a rune as a crash replacement instead, think I need the burlier bike.
Winter is coming, added some protection to keep the worst of the crap out of the bearings.
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http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g341/kiwijohn42/4CB85771-89D7-46B1-A271-5FF682AFB586_zpsv7ukpq2l.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
I have pretty much the exact same thing in the back of mine, though I have the bottom bit on the inside of the chainstay cross brace. Keeps most of the crap out of the bearings and links as intended.
So realised with the extra stickers that came with the frame there was a black head badge, doh. Peeled off the chrome head badge and there is nothing behind it. Changed my fork decals to black heritage style and fitted an oval ring
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It's built!
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Very nice but I think they've sold you a 29er instead! 😉
So my trusty Spitfire had its Pike and DBair serviced by TFTuned recently. Really impressed by their service - ridiculously quick turnaround, sent on the Wednesday, serviced on the Thursday, back on the Friday! Phoned me once to the discuss the fork requirements, again for shock stuff and finally to take payment. Detailed discussions about my wants/needs as a rider and about the condition of the items and what was needed.
I'd initially ordered a FAST damper to be fitted to the Pike but they were out of stock with no idea of when they might be back in. Part of the reason was wanting to get the damper tune better suited to the Luftkappe's less regressive beginning stroke and more progressive end stroke. Anyway, they found that the Pike had a lot of binding/friction which was slowing its rebound, hence me having the rebound damper fully open. They changed the rebound shim stack to a lighter tune as I run relatively low psi and like it quite fast - not sure if it's their own custom tune or one of the two alternate rebound stacks shown in the Pike service manual. They took it back out to 160 from 150mm too - I decided I wanted to run the longer fork softer so the sagged ride height is the same as with 150mm up front - swapping the Luftkappe over at the same time.
Anyway, whatever they've done it feels great! I'm running close to 25% sag on the fork with about 28% on the shock - it basically sits about level, just 40mm lower once sagged (most full-sus bikes sit deeper at the back, so everything gets slacker). Pre-Luftkappe more than 20% sag felt too divey and adding tokens only made it harsh deep in the travel. With the -2 deg headset it's at 64.2 deg head angle in trail mode, 63.7 deg in uplift mode, 345 or 339mm static BB height.
The DBair needed a new piggyback due to scratches where the IFP runs and the anodising was (evenly) worn on the slidey air bits - didn't need replacing now but probably before the next service was due, so it's now full shiny stealth black.
Previously I'd been running the Cane Creek Spitfire base tune as it worked for averagely heavy, averagely fast me. Paul said he'd set it up his way for me based on my info and mentioned that his own bike has the same kinematics as a Spitfire (a Kingdom Ti thing) so he knew it well.
Once they were back I noticed about a third of the spokes in my rear wheel were completely loose - it's been retensioned but there's a big flat spot about 100mm long and 3mm deep. End of line Flow EX to be ordered - I have two matching wheelsets that swap between both bikes and I like these rims.
I've since had a few rides where I kept thinking the rear wheel had finally given up or I'd got a partly deflated tyre. Apart from the slightly ovality everything looks and feels solid - I've been stopping mid trail and pulling and poking at it!
Yesterday I realised what's been going on - I've been hitting rough stuff and the back end just going soft and letting it pass in a really plush manner, hence that feeling of the back tyre being squishier than normal. And the new tune on the shock has a bit more low speed compression damping but a bit less high speed compression. So now we have a damping curve that goes more strongly regressive on sharp hits before the leverage curves ramps it up deeper in the travel. Firm when you pedal or pump, not super plush over tiny stuff but hit a mass of roots or (yesterday) a carpet of flints down the side of a field (a rare true XC outing!) it goes all magic carpet. Bloody brilliant!
It hasn't been using any more travel when hucking off drops, still only going all the way at my biggest or most inept.
So there's a top tip for Cane Creek'd Spitfire owners - try adding about 5 clicks of LSC and removing 0.5-1 turn of HSC. If it bottoms hard then increase the HSC a bit and/or add volume spacers.
As we know, the Spitfire has bottle cage mounts in a place so unsuited to the UK it's not even funny. I hate riding with a pack, and the bum bag isn't the best with >0.5kg water.
Bodged this together after seeing something similar on a mate's Alpine 160. Modified brake mount with a hole drilled and tapped for an M5 bolt, and the two bolts used loctited in place at the right height to hold the Fabric bottle snug.
Tried it and it stayed on OK in Chopwell. I like.
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Question for the folk with 2016 frames - is there a 26"-specific dropout available, or do you run the 27.5" dropout for both wheel sizes?
I recently bought a frame that I was told would come with both types of dropout, now I'm being told they only come in one flavour.
Only one set of drop outs come with the frame - I specified when I ordered what size I want.
If you don't find someone selling 2nd hand, you should be able to order through any shop that has an Ison account. They're about £100 if I remember correctly.
Cheers Mark. I actually emailed Banshee and got this response:
You have a few options for 26” dropouts with the 2016 Spitfire depending on the hub standard you are using. It is a little confusing as the Prime/Phantom in 29” mode use the same dropouts as the Spitfire/Rune in 26” mode.
The following part numbers are the 26” options (all generation 1 26/29 “compact” dropouts.)DF-V1135-269 (10 x135mm qr dropout)
DF-V1142-269 (12x142mm dropouts)
DF-V1150-269 (12x150mm dropouts)
There's plenty of room in a compact dropout with a 27.5 running a Maxxis 2.3 DHR.
I'd only get the Long if you want to run a 2.5 or bigger.
Hi where does everyone get their spitty bearings from? I need to do mine. My last set were from katec (rip)
Last lot I got were from Simply Bearings - about £28 delivered for FAG and SKF.
As for dropouts, I have 3mm clearance using 26" dropouts, 27.5" Flow Mk3 and a DHR2 2.35". I'll happily buy some 27.5 dropouts if anyone has any or swap.
BETD for mine, had them all in stock. All my non driveside were fine so didn't change them.
Finally jumped the shark & got some bigger wheels.
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Really need the long dropouts though.
What shocks are people running, and how have you found any upgrades?
I'm thinking of swapping the CC inline for something with a piggyback
Spitfire under the Southern Lights.
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Nice