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(quite long - sorry!)I’ve got the Badger Divide on the list of things to do.
Once I actually get as far as the riding bit, I think all will be fine, however I’ve got some fairly basic logistical and head games issue to work through first. The biggest bike packing days I’ve done so far are a couple of South Lakes 100s. The 2019 event I did ~85 miles on an MTB the first day – I felt like if I’d have had proper lights and less kit with me, I could have comfortably done it in a oner.
The first, obvious thing is how long to take over it. On the face of it, 2 days feels sort of doable with an overnight at Loch Ossian YHA. I don’t need to carry sleeping gear at that point, and I believe I can get a meal of sorts at the YHA/brekky at Corrour Station. The downside is that I then HAVE to do it in 2 days. That gives a 1st day around 140km, which – including the Corrieyairack – would be a big day, but doable I feel? However the second day to Glasgow is then 190km, which feels like quite a challenge with the 1st day already in my legs.
To do it over 3 days suddenly involves carrying a lot more kit, so I’ll be moving slower anyway. Which also means carrying more food as I’ll be out for longer between refueling points. No hot shower at the half way, no proper bed. At this point I’ll add that I’m not a massive fan of camping. I’m happy enough doing it to an end (eg making a trip possible), but I’m not someone who sleeps out for the love of it, and I hate riding heavy bikes festooned with all kinds of flapping, wobbly, noisy junk.
The other downside of doing it over 3 days is greater exposure to weather changes. I’m not averse to riding in the wet for a few hours when I can go home and get warm and dry, but the idea of a forced multiday march, soaked through to the skin (I’ve yet to own any form of waterproof that keeps me dry more than an hour or 2, even brand new out the bag, and once I’m wet, I’ll freeze and just stop functioning), attempting to sleep in a wet bivvy bag for a couple of night has absolutely zero appeal.
The upside of camping is that I’m at liberty to make a last minute decision to do it when there’s a period of god weather, as I don’t need to have booked one of the vanishingly few available beds at Loch Ossian months in advance.
So how nails/mental do you need to be to do it in 2 days? Other thoughts?
Then there’s gearing. I would plan to be riding my Fugio – 1x 11 on 650x47 tyres. I’ve got a current bottom gear of 40/42, which is pretty comfortable for anything locally to me in the Peak - but unloaded. I could pillage my other half’s hardtail for her 11-46 Cassette, and I could probably acquire a 38T chainring (although they’re bloody expensive!). How steep does it get? I’m at the whippet end of the body morphology spectrum, but a proper grind in bottom gear for hours will be energy inefficient and arguably slower.
Logistics. Option 1 is train to Inverness from Sheffield, then train back from Gasgow. Option 2 would be drive to Glasgow, then train from there. Option 3 would be drive to somewhere like Aberfoyle, ride the last bit into Glasgow, train to Inverness (this might make doing it as a “2-ish dayer” doable, but feels like cheating somehow). In all cases, get a hotel in Inverness with a crack of dawn start the next day.
How bike-friendly are the trains (looks like Scotrail) and how easy (or not) is it to get bikes on, both in terms of booking and actual practicality?
Food. I believe I can refuel at Fort Augustus, Corrour Station, Killin, Callander, Aberfoyle. I’ll check before going – but if the station isn’t open, that’s a bloody big gap in the middle! Water – I guess most streams are drinkable, following the usual rules? I can get by with not a lot of liquid most of the time, unless its full-on heat wave.
I’m pretty sure that once I’m on the bike and riding, it will all come together. The issue for me is sorting the imponderables to the point of committing to it. (weather being the biggest one in many ways). I’m not the kind of person to commit to doing something unless I’m 100% convinced I can succeed, and once I’m started there’s absolutely no way I’m prepared to allow failure. And so currently I’m mithering and worrying and putting it off. Hence the appeal for knowledge!
Thanks in advance for any advice…!
(do we still need to bump to be visible?)
A question back to you: why are you doing it?
Fair enough.
Mostly the riding, the trails, the landscape - but also a step in a direction I'm not entirely comfortable with.
(I should also say I've done no riding in Scotland whatsoever north of the Tweed Valley and this is part of an attempt to change that)
...and another edit... I'm not "doing" it yet. I'm "wanting" to do it, but not actually got to the doing yet because ^^^reasons
Looks like you’ve thought of everything! Couple of things to consider. What time are you setting off from Inverness? And what if the train is delayed can you adapt? Exactly that happened to us so our 2 dayer turned to 3.5 with an additional stop in Fort Augustus. We didn’t start pedalling till 2pm.
From FA there’s nothing till the YHA. I filled up bottles at the outdoor/quad bike place at the top end of of Loch Laggan. But, it was closed for business so more of a polite knock on their garage door!
The advantage of 3 days was less hassle and we got to enjoy a bumper feed at the Corrour station hotel, and a big breakfast the following morning at Rannoch station. Also, don’t underestimate the final day. There’s a pretty horrible climb out of Killin and Glen Ample can be pretty horrible (we missed that section out-done it before. Hated it).
The plan would be to overnight in Inverness then set off after the earliest breakfast I can get Premier Inn/Holiday Inn/Travelodge to provide
To me, it seems like a lot of travel to put up with in order to skip through it in only two days. Different if you're doing it as some sort of challenge/self-test to see just quickly you can manage it of course. That's why I asked.
So, I'd say three days and enjoy the journey.
I understand we're not all #ditchsleepers and carrying less will certainly add to your riding pleasure. I'd point out that good bikepacking setups don't have to be huge or heavy and certainly don't need to be flapping about when riding, but that entails a certain amount of expenditure which you'll likely not justify/want if it's for a one-off like this.
I don't think there is an option regarding booking the train. Spaces are very limited and they tend to fill up (although I've had some lucky experiences). You are sometimes dependent on the guard and the mood they are in.
Corrour station cafe has now opened for the season. I recommend the venison lorne sausage.
I've been drinking out of streams and rivers all my life and been fine. In the wild areas it'll be fine. In more "built-up" or farm areas then you'll almost always be able to find a shop of pub/cafe for water.
Wear smidge!!
I’m not the kind of person to commit to doing something unless I’m 100% convinced I can succeed
This is me. I do wish I could just "let go" sometimes.
Oh - Laggan Wolftrax isn't too far off the route as a potential additional food option.
Yeah - its simply for sh*ts and giggles
I've got most of the gear already - although some of it has proved problematic enough to want to replace it after a couple of uses. The flappy bit - I've yet to ride with a seatpack that doesn't wobble around disconcertingly and I've broken the mounts or buckles pretty much every time I've used them, despite not overloading them.
Otherwise - useful info, thanks. The train bit worries me, I have to admit. I've had rows with conductors before. Bikes and trains "should" go together so well, but they so rarely do.
I've ridden From Inverness to corrour bunk house in a day. Left Inverness at 9am and think I got to the hostel about 9pm that included a leisurely lunch stop in Ft Augustus. The Corriarick is the hardest climb but good surface on the way up So judge your gearing on that. From bridge of balgie to Loch Earn is all quick road or cycle path.
Then depends if you go the proper route through Glen Ample. slow and you will be pushing some tech bits for a gravel bike. The decent is ok as surface is good. I've just done it the opposite way today on the mtb! Or u can skip it and take the cycle path alternative via Loch Lubnaig. On a nice day Glen Ample is stunning so worth the effort. Today it was grim! There is a couple of B@Bs in Laggan as an option. There is also a very good spot at Rannoch with cover if u are just taking a bivy. Calendar to Aberfoyle is fairly quick on good paths only 1 big climb. Certainly doable over 2 long days but there is some really stunning places on route so if it's your only visit then as Colin says better to take a bit more time and soak it up. If it's dry😀. If u want some company gimme a shout as could be up for doing it.
Bikes and trains “should” go together so well, but they so rarely do
We were supposed to have bike-specific carriages on some routes by now
https://road.cc/content/news/scotrail-reveals-striking-livery-its-bicycle-carriages-274513
I'm guessing Covid has delayed their introduction (or I missed the launch)
Re laggan wolffrax the shop and cafe all closed up last weekend. I see also it’s advertising for a new cafe lease/franchisee. So I guess check nearer time to ensure open.
I did it in Sept last year over 4 days using the sleeper train:
Inverness - Fort Augustus (65km / 5hr)
Fort Augustus - Bridge of Guar (105km / 8hr)
Bridge of Gaur - Killin (68km / 5hr)
Killin - Glasgow (93km / 7hr)
(5 days if you include Glasgow to Glasgow train station)
This worked really well logistically, no need for accommodation prior to the first day's riding as we slept on the train, riding by 8am. B&B / hotel and plenty of time for a couple of pints, decent meal in an evening and a good breakfast. We had planned to bivvy/bothy but with the bothys being shut we went for comfort rather than full camping.
From what you've written I'd say 2 days would be doable but your margin of error would be quite small, particularly for trains etc on day 2 if you're not staying in the city. Your first day would be ok, the pass isn't as hard as you'd think but on your second day the first couple of hours out of Bridge of Guar can be grim as can the first couple of hours out of Killin.
3 days would be a bit awkward logistically I think, which is why we went for 4.
If I was doing it N-S again I'd either just repeat my 4 day trip or do a full-on, lightweight "bivvy in a bush" 2 dayer to give me as much flexibility in terms of logistics and stopping points as possible.
I did it in 2 days as ScotDuro, on a gravel bike. never felt like 2 days was unachievable. Set off from Inverness at 7am, got to Corourr station about 7 ish, just in time for dinner. Wild camped with a tent near the station and set off 6ish the next morning. Was never really pushing the pace and got to Glasgow 8ish (I think). It's a fantastic route but I was lucky with great weather. I had about 5 punctures after my rear tyre failed to seal a hole in the first couple of hours. I had to buy more tubes in Fort Augustus (lucky the bike shop is there as nothing else on route afaik). Hills aside, the terrain is pretty easy going.Fitness wise, I am pretty fit but in no way elite. Some people on ScotDuro rode through the night, doing the whole thing as a single stage.
So fo me, 3 days would be too long but would allow for mishaps.
Just go for the 2 days. Travel light with sleep kit and enough food for a couple of days.
If you keep you speed down you'll manage it fine I'm sure.
Although 3 days does seem to be a nice distance each day.
https://www.outdoorprovisions.co.uk/ramblings/the-badger-divide
3 days. Stop and look around for a bit. Talk to people. Jump in a Loch. Eat well. There’s some amazing scenery you’ll miss.
Or if you manage to convince someone to do it with you, then you could share things like a stove, food and tent.
I did the Cairngorm Loop 300km ride in less than 2 days (just over 37 hours) with no stove and just a bivvy and lightweight sleeping bag. It was fine, I just ate in cafes and carried plenty of cold food.
I have done The Badger Divide and am doing it again in 3 weeks time, fantastic route. My recommendations
- Go South to North, generally the prevaling winds are SW in the Uk and you appreciate a tail wind. Also you want to ride out of Glasgow and roll into Inverness, stay at the Black Isle Brewery and enjoy a few.
- Travel super light and don't underestimate the amount of climbing, especially the "high route from Fort Augustus to Inverness", its about 50miles but continual climbing and droping...and repeat.
- There is a beastly climb (heading northwards) out of Killin... the Zig/Zig road climb.
-Don't underestimate how cold you can get up around Corourr and over the Corrieairack, odds on you are getting partly wet, either rain or the multiple burns you need to cross. It's very hard to not get wet feet and shorts. Our biggest issue was the cold.
- I vote for 3 days.
We did it over three days. Inverness the night before. Then stopped in Laggan and Killin. Would do exactly the same next time. That was B&B and hotels, so could travel light. Loved every minute 👌
If can I impart only one bit of knowledge it would be this - Don't over think it. Just enjoy it.
I did it south to north in 3 days (ish - I stopped just short as I had another holiday to get too) last summer. I did it because I wanted to push my comfort zone and do something different. I spent ages thinking, packing, planning, re-thinking etc etc. My other half gave me a lift to the start and she said it was the quietest I have ever been. I was terrified, but as soon as I got going I was just fine.
I think it is important to remember that there are remote bits of this route, but you are not that far from safety at all (there is a train station to rescue you if you need it). Overall the bit without food stops is probably just over a day and thats if you mistime the cafe at Corrour train station. As for bad weather again you can just bail if it gets bad. That option will always be there and is a really nice get out of jail card.
If you haven't done much bikepacking, or ridden a lot in Scotland I would recommend not trying to do it in 2 days. It is absolutely possible, but as a first go there is no need to put that kind of pressure on yourself. Also if you camp you can stop where you want and take advantage of the right to roam.
Everyone I have spoken to about the route says its really rough and quite steep. Bit tyres and low gears are a good idea. I did it on 35mm tyres with a 42/11-42. You will manage on whatever you have, but I wouldn't recommend tyres that small or a gear that big.
We did it over three days. Inverness the night before. Then stopped in Laggan and Killin. Would do exactly the same next time. That was B&B and hotels, so could travel light. Loved every minute
To be honest, this sounds like the best answer, although it does kind of feel a bit nesh only doing 60miles/80miles/60miles AND having a proper bed, hot shower, food etc. I hadn't really clicked it went so close to Laggan. Not carrying camping gear will make the actual riding much more enjoyable and mean it's not a complete disaster if the weather is utterly cak. I wouldn't be carrying a tent (bivvy bag + tarp) or a stove.
Don’t over think it
Ha. Yes. Well...
Have been looking into this route too, based in Edinburgh. 3 days via Laggan and Killin sounds pleasant. Just trying to work out whether better on a rigid Surly Krampus with 29 x 3in tyres and 32 x 11-46, or my Secan with 700 x 42mm and 50/34 x 11-40.
We did the Cairngorm (outer) Loop a couple of years ago, took it easy and stayed in accommodation.
Limited the amount of stuff we had to carry, showers, decent food and enjoyed it far more.
We’re doing it in four days, North to South, arriving later than I would like into Inverness and setting off to FA staying in a hostel, then a day to Corrour staying in the expensive but nice station hotel, Another day to Killin and a hotel, my plan is to go light and enjoy the ride and drink plenty of pints each evening and eat my body weight in fish and chips. I would just recommend booking your bike onto the train, Scotrail only releases the bike space two weeks before.
As @scotroutes said when I was enquiring a while ago
Anyway, who wants to go for a good ride and end up in Glasgow?
I did 5 days - stopped in the pub at Killin, Kilvrect campsite , YHA at Corrour, and FA pub.
If I were doing it today (considerably lighter and fitter) I'd plan for three days (Stops in Killin & FA, lunch at Corrour), and stay in the pubs, but definitely have enough kit to survive a mucky night out.
It really is very pretty when the sun comes out. It has a certain "charm" when you're crossing a muddy bog and the sideways rain hasn't stopped for what seems like 3 hours...
then a day to Corrour staying in the expensive but nice station hotel,
Hmm, three years ago I scratched on the HT550 due to food poisoning. I was at Ben Alder Cottage so plodded up to the first col then dropped into the glen on the other side and walked out. I got to Corrour after 9pm so the restaurant had shut. However there was obviously activity in the kitchen so I stuck my head in the window and asked if I could buy a couple of cans of pop. "No problem". I was sat outside drinking them and could hear mutterings. Then a head pops out of the window - "Do you want a pie?"
That came gratis. I was then just about to bivy out in the waiting room on the station platform, just about to strip off and a bloke appears at the door. "We've been watching you and you look knackered! We are stopping in the old signal box and there's a spare bedroom. You can have it if you want" So rather than spending a night in a bivy bag under a tarp I got this:
En-suite bathroom. And there was breakfast included! I did buy them a nice bottle of wine, don't think I could have afforded the real cost.
Thinking of doing the badger lightweight stylee shortly
There is also a very good spot at Rannoch with cover if u are just taking a bivy.
Where abouts is this? On the station?
I'm doing it next month, my itinerary is pretty much dictated by the (only) train booking I could find/get - so book this first.
Aiming for 3 days plus the couple of hours on the first day as I arrive in Inverness after 8pm. Camping so decided to use my HT rather than gravel, more comfortable with a load on rough tracks.
I do though hope/intend to then ride home from Glasgow, so that'll be another day.
I did it, and to plan!
Finding a place to camp once out of Inverness wasn't the easiest, just tree bog. Then camped about 10 miles short of Ossian YHA and ended up in a hotel in Killin as my tent had split in the torrential rain the previous night/morning. Short evening ride and then 3x 65 mile days, including one of +8,000ft.
If I was doing it again, and wanted to go light, I'd look for an earlier train to Inverness and then stay in Fort Augustus. Next stay at Ossian YHA and then in Killin, with the train home from Glasgow.
Glad I took my MTB rather than my gravel - mainly as it'd be soul-destroying on the rough descents to not be able to just 'let it go'.
Water – I guess most streams are drinkable, following the usual rules?
A cheap water filter like a Katadyn BeFree would be a good investment, then you don't have to worry as much about giving yourself the squits (or dehydration). Weighs very little, takes up very little room.
Water – I guess most streams are drinkable, following the usual rules?
I took one but never used it. Plenty of fast flowing streams between Fort A. and Killin, and then I topped up at the cafe when I had lunch.
I’d say three days and lower gears than you currently have, especially if you are carrying anything. There are some bloody steep bits. I did it in September last year and camped at garva bridge then the head of Glen lyon. Worked well. I set off a bit late from Inverness due to train times, and was a bit ill on day 1 so it felt pretty epic. There was a lot of climbing. Felt better day 2 and 3, which was a relief as probably would have had to give up otherwise. Sure I could do it in 2, but I think it’s better to take a little more time rather than have to press on all the time - unless you really are challenging yourself. Oh, and take less food at the start than I did…decent shop in FA so it save you hauling it over the surprisingly hilly great Glen way.