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Is there such a thing as a bad bike or a useless component these days??
Is there anything that just isn't fit for purpose or are there things we just use in the wrong situation?
I ask because I had a set of Conti Mountain King 2.2 on my HT and they were without question the worst tyres I have ever used. Punctured just by looking at them wrong. I ended up having to pump them up so hard to stop the pinch flats they felt utterly horrid.
So back to the question.. are these bad tyres, or am I just using them in the wrong place? I'm in the peaks, which as we all know is rocky. Are the contis the best thing since sliced bread on smooth flowing singletrack?
just wondering like.....!
This thread will never get going, its far to sensible and not of a trollish nature 😆
btw, not tried them myself so have no opinion, sos.
but have you ever used ANY bike kit that just didn't do its job?
My theory is that there isn't any utter rubbish, just some stuff we use incorrectly or in the wrong situation,
I'd love to know if there is utter rubbish out there..
now we're talking, start your engines
Conti race king. Stupidly thin tyre that gets ripped if you sneeze. I'm only 11 stone and i pinch flat below 45psi 👿 It was you i saw yesterday wasn't it? Sorry i started riding off, i assumed you were going the same way as me but didn't want to stop as i would have split off from the rest of the group.
FSA
(all made from cheese)
FSA Smack Daddy cranks were solid for 3+ years of bmx!
Aye that was me!!
Don't worry about it, I was on the homeward bound leg going the other way!!
See this is what I mean.. I had FSA rings and they were really good, miles better that XT As I said I'm in the peak which is hard on components but the FSA lasted me well.
Conti Mountain King 2.2
+1.
Hope Tech M4's that offered no more stopping power than a £50 set of s/h Juicy's. Duly sold on. And quickly.
We had a headwind all the way back to glossop 🙁 Had to pedal down chunal hill....
continental tyres will kill you
I had conti vert pros briefly, hated them as well.. for me just didn't feel right. They were the tyre of choice on here for a while I swapped mine for Panaracers!
Another good point about the brakes up there.. I have Juciy 7s on my 5spot. Never had an issue with them, great stopping power and reliable, yet there are many on here who wouldn't weigh down paper with them. So for me they are not bad brakes, yet there are many on here who would say otherwise.
So back to the question, is there such thing as a bad bit of kit??
CODA disc brakes from around 10 years ago were far and away the worst bike component I have ever come across. absolutely shocking!!
Orange 5s... usless!!
Hope tech 4 's crap????
Great .... just bought a set. Well they look nice anyways ...
back to topic though ...
Bad bikes .... Orange p7 ... Right stinker.
Bad components ... Any conti mtb tyres ... The only tyre i happilly bin.
my maintenance skills can make anything crap, and by maintenance i mean maintaining a place in the back of the shed.
most normal style metal water bottle holders don't take too much to unravel, plastic is fantastic! i don't get on with conti tyres, too round (crossways duh!) pretty much anything will do on the back when its dry and not too rocky though.
I'll take the M4's off your hands if you don't want them, I weigh 15st and happily stop quickly with mono mini pro's (that the carbon/titanium xc weight weenie version for anoexic race wippets). And thats despite 'upgrading' to 140/160mm rotors!
Superstar bottom brackets, they really are shit.
" I ended up having to pump them up so hard to stop the pinch flats they felt utterly horrid"
I believe the minium pressure on at least the older and not quite brand new (speed king/mountain king/etc) is 50psi. Not sure about rubber queens and newer, or anything black chilli
Continental tyre tread 'caving in' from underneath, tread then folds over each time it hits the floor. Seen in on speed kings, mountain kings, verticals, gravity. All non black chilli?
Continental tubes claiming to be suited upto 2.5" tyres. Way Smaller, thinner (and pinchflat prone) than Specialized upto 2.2", Raleigh upto 2.1"
Horrendous with any tyre anywhere near a small 2.5"
'04-'07 XT and '05-'08 LX aluminium chainrings. Completely dead rings/chain/casette inside of 7 months through summer, inside of 5 through winter
Magnesium rocker links maybe. I've read in relation to bikes (so not sure on how different/all magnesium alloys actually behave in reality) magnsium has a very low fatigue resistance. Rockers pinged off inside of 3 years. Split showed the crack had been propagating for some time with loads of tiny cracks up until the final break
'Professional' tools, appear blackened/hardened, T-25 head trying to round on first use
Non-servicable freehubs? Lock up mid-ride or snap (loud crack) and go free without warning
Bontrager ACX TLR 55/62a, tread starting to cave in from underneath after about the 3rd ride
Oddly my Bontrager MudX TLR 55/62a (visually very similar tread) haven't done this whatsoever. Still going strong for the 3rd winter, admitedly not quite as tall tread as when new, so on 2nd bike that doesn't see the deepest of winter
Any bike with Maxxis 2.25" supplied on Mavic XM317 rims, presumably with 'standard' XC tubes?
[cough]orange[/cough]
They're pushing it on XM719s IMO/IME. On XC717s 2.25" maxxis is very squeezed at the rim. Sub 50psi was pinchflat central for me with standard tubes (which don't seem to have met the tyre until you've inflated to about 20psi)
Older crank brothers multitools. Rounded about half the tools on mine far too easily without really trying
A friend had a set of Crank Brothers candies undo/empty the ball beatings out on the first ride
Can't think of anything else off the top of head right now
Agreed on the Mountain Kings, mine were rubbish and soon replaced.
I'm sure there are still bad bikes out there, luckily I've not yet had one.
Anyone else unlucky enough to experience setting up the latest Promax cable discs(as on Cannondale SL5)?The pads never seem to sit in the same place twice, and usually at about 10 degrees from parallel. If you set them to clear the rotor(which also requires much straightening as is usually warped to hell and back)the lever virtually hits the bars, if you set them so the lever works at a sensible point then the pads drag. Suggestions(other than shoving them up the CSG rep's a**e) gratefully received.
james - bad workman/rider
Agree with the Mountain Kings, I'll give you USE suspension seatposts, Pace stuff, DT rims, bejesus
they're hard to get tyres on, sold mine with the Mountain Kings fitted! 😀
Seems to me that there's a Conti' theme running here & I'd have to agree that Race King is no king at all. I had huge problems with their fragility.
@ Takisawa - Your Hope M4 cannot be set up right, they're more than fit for purpose.
I would add that my Rockshox Quadra r21 back in the day were no use nor ornament. May be that's just early technology but then again, should they have been released at all as they never worked as suspension, they just kept a wheel at the front.
Any fork by suntour.
For me this pump didn't work, from new, in a dry heated garage. Wouldn't seal properly. When the head was lifted off the valve the O ring came off. Utter rubbish. I would have returned it but I used the included bottle cage mount to mount my Topeak Road Morph instead.
I should have known there was a reason Wiggle had discounted it by 75% to £4. I suspect they were getting a huge amount of returns.
Anything made by SRAM/Avid/Rockshox...
I used a set of conti diesels, they were utter tosh.
them little bolts on odi lock ons.......cheese bolts
Green Slime - utter cr**... I'll stick to carrying a spare inner tube.
Wave rotor on BB7 Avid was warped on arrival too.
I like Verts, but High Rollers are utter crap. Nearly new set in the shed with all the worn out Verts.
Ditto never had a problem with Juicy 7s.
The greater problem is: the number of people with no clue of how to ride a bike; no clue how to differentiate between suitable applications of a component; no clue how to work on their bike; and no inclination to think that issues they encounter might be their fault rather than the bike/component.
I like Conti tyres.
I also like Hope brakes. But then I know how to look after them 🙂
Not much is truly crap or it wouldn't get made. It's just the wrong application or the wrong usage. Tyre companies can't say 'oh well this tyre is great in one certain application', the hyperbole arms race demands that they claim it's the best thing ever.
Not much is truly crap or it wouldn't get made. It's just the wrong application or the wrong usage. Tyre companies can't say 'oh well this tyre is great in one certain application', the hyperbole arms race demands that they claim it's the best thing ever.
I think thats what I'm getting at..
however there seems to be a universal dislike for conti tyres. Are they just bad tyres, or just not suitable for our type of riding.
I had some speedking 2.3s that I at first thought were awful. Then I pumped them up much harder than I would've, and they were much better. thin sidewalls run tubeless didn't help at all at 30psi. I've still got them on the bike and enjoy them now.
I think some people are too quick to bin something when it they don't immediately like it.
I've used Mountain Kings and Verticals for years without any problems. Conti would by my tyre of choice.
Apart from frames, the worst component for me was a PACE RC 41 Fighter. There was a lockout lever which doubled as an adjustment knob. It was impossible to keep the fork set up as you wanted it particularly when trying to adjust it wearing thick winter gloves!
PACE RC 41 Fighter
I had that on my RC41s, didn't bother me too much tho as it was easy to flip it back into position. And it wasn't lockout it was lock down, which was a great feature and I miss it on my revs.
One man's bread etc.
Conti Verticals worked fine for me, back when they were fashionable 🙂
Specialized 2bliss tyres are always worrying, the way the slime bubbles out through the sidewalls. Worked fine, so perhaps more of a psychological thing.
Only really crap component I've had in the last few years were Mavic quick releases, nothing like your back wheel popping out all on its own when you're riding 👿 And thank god for lawyer tabs! Definitely not user error - the first time I gave them the benefit of the doubt, the 2nd, 3rd &c. time: no. Now using Shimano QRs, and all is well.
DT rims - Oversized Cheese. Not only a bugger to get tyres on and off (a nightmare if you're trying tubeless!) but soft enough for the Cadbury's Caramel Bunny!
And I've not tried a Conti tyre yet worthy of not slinging in the bin...
the way the slime bubbles out through the sidewalls
That always happens with normal tyres run tubeless. Stops after a short while.
i agree with the OP, montain kings are shite. really sketchy. the new version aren't much better. the compound is too hard and i lost several side knobs on my first ride with them. swapped them for Rubber Queens. RQ is a good all-round trail tyre. so impressed i actually bought a set in 2.4".
infact most of the conti tyres i've used aren't up to much. Verts are ok-ish, but nothing special. the race series from conti are pants. may as well run slicks.
always liked Maxxis HRs. can't see why some people don't like them.
Admittedly, I can't see a reason to run Conti tyres when Schwalbe are available.
bottles and bottle cages were ok in the 80s, but come on... who really uses one now!? Totaly pointless IMHO.
Also, innertubes with car valves! ( Schrader )
Whoops ... I like my Race-king ss's but do limit them to flatter fitness rides on a 1x9 carbon stumpjumper build. They are just so indecently light. Yet to see how the X-kings hold up by comparison on the heavier rides / bike (still trying to get them to seal).
What is absolute pants though is Crank Brothers, cobalt headset dead in a matter of months. Lockon grips with end caps made of brittle plastic that shatter when you fit them, and sponge grips that disintegrate after 4 rides. Im just hoping the stem doesn't explode as well ... they must have made the Formula R1 torx bolts as well.
Bah ...
bottles and bottle cages were ok in the 80s, but come on... who really uses one now!? Totaly pointless IMHO.
I do and so do quite a few other folk. It means you don't need to carry a rucksac.
There ok untill you hit a techie section or a drop or jump or a root for that matter and boyng out the stupid thing flies and disapears down the banking, how can you really go on a ride without a camelback!? were do you keep your innertube and butties and multitool and car keys and so on?
Have to agree on the mountain kings .. used them on a bike when they had just come out (3/4 years ago?) God awful tyres. No problems with punctures but absolutely atrocious grip - esp. in mud - sliding everywhere. Could not ride with any confidence.
Speed Kings not much better - nice and quick but the side knobs are so flexy that you can feel the things wobble in a tight turn!
Other awful components
- Crank brothers Headsets - rust up almost immediately
- DT swiss rims used to dent with no effort at all
- Look quartz pedals - come with almost a booklet of shims, and the cleats chip to pieces in weeks.
Speed Kings not much better - nice and quick but the side knobs are so flexy that you can feel the things wobble in a tight turn
I had that - more pressure fixed it.
There ok untill you hit a techie section or a drop or jump or a root for that matter and boyng out the stupid thing flies and disapears down the banking,
Decent cages don't do that.
As for butties - many rides don't require butties, and multitools go in your jersey back pockets along with keys, phone, spare tube, puncture kit and optionally pump.
That always happens with normal tyres run tubeless. Stops after a short while.
Spesh 2Bliss aren't "normal" tyres, they're supposedly tubeless ready. And it doesn't stop.
Apart from that you're spot on 😉
Tubeless ready meaning the bead is nice and fat. Not the same as actual tubeless UST style.
It should stop after a ride, otherwise your sealant is no good!
It should stop after a ride, otherwise your sealant is no good!
Must be that, then - cos they never stopped. Not got them anymore, though, so no longer a problem!
Look quartz pedals - come with almost a booklet of shims, and the cleats chip to pieces in weeks.
mine have been fantastic, take loads of abuse, long lasting no problems with cleat longevity and only needed a 0.5mm shim to get them to work perfectly with northwave and specialsed shoes. The whole booklet of shims aren't all meant to be used at the same time 😯
mountainman123 - MemberThere ok untill you hit a techie section or a drop or jump or a root for that matter and boyng out the stupid thing flies and disapears down the banking, how can you really go on a ride without a camelback!? were do you keep your innertube and butties and multitool and car keys and so o
I have dropped a bottle once in 20 years. Trail centre red and black no issues. I ain't the gnarliest of riders but I am not wheels on the ground all the time and like the rooty stuff where available
Multitool and tube in seatpack. Pump on frame clips. food in jumper pockets. I don't have car keys 🙂 I don't carry a load of useless uneeded crap around with me.
Obviously winter nightrides and far out into the wilds I may need to carry a bit more and sometimes have to wear a rucksac but it is so much more pleasant not to have one on. 3 - 5 hrs local / trail centre rides its fine not to use a cmelback
Last Wendesday nightride about half the folk did not have camelbacks
SRAM X9 rear mech. The might be light weight but only as it is made of cheese. The thread stripped before the replaceable drop out snapped/stripped defeating the point some what.
Didn't really get on with a Santa Cruz Chameleon as it made me feel like in was on a bone shaker.
Manitou Nixon Platinum forks from a few years ago.£500 and failed straight out of the box,and repeatedly after fixing.
Race Face x-type bottom bracket bearings.2 months in dry conditions and then had it.Utter junk.
Finally,and controvercially,the Orange 5 i had for over a year.Would be more at home on the Antiques Roadshow than on the trails.Just right for middle aged overweight baldies who have more money than riding competence.
My Conti Mountain King 2.4 Black Chilli Protection are the best tyres I have used. Used them all over the place on my HT inc very rough Alpine tracks, and fast road descents, all at 30psi.
Hardly any punctures (none in the Alps), and the compound is hard wearing and feels planted to me.
I think the problem here is Conti make many versions of these tyres... I got the most expensive ones, about £35 per tyre IIRC... I know they make a cheapo version that is non-black-chilli and non-protection. I guess if you use those versions in a gnarr / burly manner, you get what you deserve.
If anyone wants to throw out the quality versions of these tyres, throw them to me please...
Just right for middle aged overweight baldies who have more money than riding competence
Or, decent riders who know how to get the best out of a bike? 🙂
I've never been a fan of Contis, ridden some that I'd describe as unridable. But bought some Race Kings recently (just basic 2.2 wirebeads for £15 each) and they're great. Light, pliable, fast rolling on tarmac and grippy enough in our dry sandy soil. So there ya go - finally a Conti I like and I had to put aside my prejudices. 😀
2007 marzocchi 66 SL1 ATA
Without doubt the worst component ever made! Not fit for purpose! Luckily windwave are very helpful chaps and we came to an agreement
I have those!
What was bad about yours?
Thumbs up for conti tyres - they've been good to me.
Thumbs down for my 7 year old Hope quick releases - tight was never tight enough.
Thumbs down for cheap n nasty no brand tools.
Anything by Crank Brothers. Their stuff looks great, but after my experiences I'll never buy anything else from them.
The exception is their Cobalt ISIS BB - still going strong.
Molgrips, if you meant me then those forks went back 3 times for a warranty repair, when I did some more digging it turned out lots of others had similar issues- replaced with rc3:)
I had the wind-down issue. Went back to WW and was fixed for free. Not had a problem since. Hardly the only product to have a design flaw like that although I admit it was pretty big and should've been spotted!
However they are headache for other reasons. Setup is a black art and you cannot get all the travel ever. But those things probably only affect me as a bit of a compulsive fiddler.
I probably would have changed them by now but anything I'd replace them with was £800! They came on a bike so I didn't pay that much for them.
Obviously winter nightrides and far out into the wilds I may need to carry a bit more and sometimes have to wear a rucksac but it is so much more pleasant not to have one on. 3 - 5 hrs local / trail centre rides its fine not to use a cmelbackLast Wendesday nightride about half the folk did not have camelbacks
Yeah, but you live in a part of the UK where 15C is considered hot!
Hope Tech M4's that offered no more stopping power than a £50 set of s/h Juicy's. Duly sold on. And quickly.
Did you bed them in and set them up right? I just bought a pair second hand. I tried them out first because they looked to be in a right state. I spent time setting them up right, sanded the pads down, bedded them in and they're 10 times better than my Juicy's.
IMHO i think all hope brakes are shite!!! Formula all the way for me.
ISIS BB's I will add I have not tried the Crank Bros ones, but when you hack one to bits to try to understand why they are so SH!t you have some ball bearings fall out that could be used on the tip of a biro they are that small. Made I guess to allow for a large spindle for added strength/lack of flex, but whats the point when the bearings are so small. Number of spindles snapped = 0 BB bearings killed = Lots (by me) why not a smaller diameter spindle with larger more survivable bearings? I guess a broken spindle could result in someone really hurting themselves and a lawsuit, whereas some seized bearings means just another BB re-sale.......
IMHO i think all hope brakes are shite!!!
You're wrong then 🙂
Santa Cruz Nomad replaceable dropouts. Went through 3 in 6 months. Guess it could be my riding style or lack of 🙂
molgrips - Member"IMHO i think all hope brakes are shite!!!"
You're wrong then
Or a shite mechanic? Or a troll?
Quite possibly 🙂
No problem with conti here. I used to run 2.3 Vertical Protections front and back in the Purbecks - seemed to grip well and no real puncture issues. Now run a Tubeless Vertical on the front and a Bonty tubeless on the back and again hapy enough.
Had an alu BMC Elite HT race frame for a while which may have been great on a race course, but it was a harsh bumpy pain in the wrists and backside on long rough rides. More wrong choice than bad kit though.
Crank Bros seems the epitome of style over substance - would never buy anything made by them, cannot be arsed with the unreliability.
It's great that they design stuff that has some flair and creativity to it, but if they can't engineer it properly then it's a waste of time.
Conti race king. Stupidly thin tyre that gets ripped if you sneeze. I'm only 11 stone and i pinch flat below 45psi
Silly light race versions? My 2.2 USTs are fine. And I weight 12st and run 'em at 25psi.
And I often run one on the rear of my Orange Five. 😉
"Tubeless ready meaning the bead is nice and fat. Not the same as actual tubeless UST style.
It should stop after a ride, otherwise your sealant is no good!"
UST is a registered name and technology, similar to Hoover vs. vacuum cleaner or Polartec 200 vs. mid-weight fleece.
Whether one is better than the other is up for discussion, but brands/names tend to be registered to protect what the developer perceives to be a good, commercially viable product that could be reproduced using inferior materials or manufacturing processes.
IMHO i think all hope brakes are shite!!! Formula all the way for me.
I'm glad someone has ridden every set of Hope brakes ever made. Makes a great base from which to draw comparison.
