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Hi everyone, fitted a new set of elixir cr brakes tonight and bled them using the avid kit.
Firstly can anyone tell me where to purchase some of the clips for the brake pad pins as i managed to break both...they seem to be made of cheese!
The other issue i'm finding is with regards to the bite point adjustment. I have the lever reach all the way out and from following the bleed video on youtube i rotated the bite point adjustment as per instructions (opposite way to arrow) which means it's screwed all the way in. As far as i can tell this means the adjustment is at full and winding it in the direction of the arrow allows the lever to bite far closer to the bars. Does this sound correct? I'd prefer the brakes biting a little sooner.
Thanks
Hugh
Can't help you to source the clips - lost both mine as well. I just put some mild threadlock on the threads (carefully).
Ignore the arrow, I'm sure one of mine points the wrong way. Unscrewing barrel means more lever travel to the bite point. Screwing the barrel in means less lever travel to the bite point. Simples.
Also, be careful with the springs. They're quite easy to bend out of shape but their shape is quite critical.
Yep correct.
same on mine from new.
Give it another bleed and see how you go.
Did mine twice and it did bite a bit further out but mot by much.
When you use them out and about they do feel right though.
Love mine now .
(don,t ignore the arrow..The video is right)
Dont you have to wind it fully in, then out till the plug is upright ?
I follwed the videos on Srams Youtube collection & mine came out spot on.
It also helps to make sure the caliper pistons aren't sticky in their seals, cleaning, lubing, and exercising them (allowing them to come out a little more than normal) as well as bleeding them can reduce your lever travel by a noticable amount, even on brand new brakes.
What do you lube them with?
Hunters silicone fluid from a plumbers merchant (used for assembling plastic pipework, apparently) will do the job nicely, use a kiddies paint brush to apply it.
FWIW I always bleed my brakes with the contact adjuster screwed all the way out. Then after the bleed, when I dial it back in it makes for a really nice solid feel with a very early bite point. I do this because I like my brake levers as close to the bars as possible in their starting position. Any later with the bite and they are touching the bars.
Interestingly, all the bleed guides say to have the contact adjuster all the way in but I never get a good bleed like that.
Also, I keep thinking about the prinicpal of the contact adjuster. Understand in general terms it is to compensate the pad wear and, in theory, should be adjusted in proportionally as the pads wear and as the distance the pistons/lever travels increases. But to do that means running the adjuster barrel fully wound out from the start of a fresh pair of pads, ie at their thickest point. But like I say I've never had any of my avids feeling good with the adjuster out, as the bite point only occurs after a rediculous amount of lever travel...
You may well find that lubing and exercising the pistons will help you too.
(don,t ignore the arrow..The video is right)
Not saying the video is wrong, but on both mine the arrow (says 'Pad Contact In') points anticlockwise to unscrew the barrel. This has the effect of moving the bite point further away from the lever...