[Closed] Anyone use a Tensile Chain tensioner?

I bought the exact same tensioner from eBay but not made by Tensile.

I like it because it pushes the chain onto the rear sprocket and increases engagement. Seems like a better solution than the ‘push-down’ designs.

Top link on mine is fixed by a screw which clamps the shaft to stop it moving. A fiddle to set up but works perfectly once set.

No problems at all so far 8)

I use a Rohloff tensioner which works on a similar principle but is sprung like a derailleur rather than clamped in place - has been really good, far better than the simple tensioners I've used.

I think I had the Superstar branded one that is almost identical and that was sprung.

I'm using one of these on a singlespeeded 200mm travel DH bike.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XLC-A04-SINGLE-SPEED-KETTENSPANNER-2-MTB-SINGLESPEED-FIXIE-BMX-CHAIN-TENSIONER-/230833062094?hash=item35beb900ce
It's sprung (adjustable tension) and the arm can be rotated upwards to the chainstay to give greater chain engagement on the rear sprocket. As you can imagine. with a 200mm DW link rear end the chain growth is pretty big and this just works brilliantly with a NW ring and no other chain retention needed.
I almost went for a copy of the tensile one you've linked to but mud shedding and adjustability are even better with this more minamalist version.
The whole bike now stays much cleaner/lighter and picks up way less mud than a cassette/mech/Chaindevice ever could.
I'm guessing this may be a bonus for a fatbike too?

The issue I have is the chain can still skip when really pressing uphill from a standstill. So what I want is a rigid push up tensioner, but the size of the chainstay means there's no room, so I'm hoping one like that tensile one would give the best of both worlds, more chain wrap and just enough spring to take the rest of the slack out.

The other alternative is just try a new sprocket and chain, but I do change gears as fitness comes and goes so it's not practical to have a spare chain for every sprocket.

The shimano (DX) sprockets I use are five quid each. (I have 3 for different DH tracks). Chain was about a tenner. (SRAM 9 speed IIRC) chosen as it's a tight fit on the DX sprocket teeth but also works well with the NW chainring teeth.
a slipping chain under power on a DH bike is not something I ever want to be dealing with.
Dunno if any of this info helps you or not.

The shimano (DX) sprockets I use are five quid each. (I have 3 for different DH tracks). Chain was about a tenner. (SRAM 9 speed IIRC) chosen as it's a tight fit on the DX sprocket teeth but also works well with the NW chainring teeth.
a slipping chain under power on a DH bike is not something I ever want to be dealing with.
Dunno if any of this info helps you or not.

I don't imagine you need much pedaling (or put anywhere near the force through it) as riding XC. I use 3/32 chains and the wide CrMo sprockets, the pressed steel ones and 9s chains don't last very long.

Sounds like we need some sort of GCN/MBUK style challenge?

😆

Haha, no, just the fact that it only ever jumps when almost at a standstill trying to bounce it up a rooty climb.

Sprinting flat out downhill naturally put's less force on the chain as it can only ever equal the reaction force from the bike. If it's free to move downhill then the reaction force is lower, it's not as much as climbing at a near standstill on the way up.

Also the torque curve for a human is pretty much the inverse of speed, we develop the most force at a standstill (doing a squat in the gym) and almost nothing at ~170RPM on a spin bike, although the power is more constant.

I presume this is for a hardtail, in which case I've always had better results using a front tensioner such as the Blackspire Stinger

I had a rebranded one of those that was fine until it exploded into about 500 pieces on the last downhill bit of a morning ride. No warning, just a couple of pedal strokes at the bottom of a steep downhill and a horrible crunchy noise followed by the ping of springs unravelling and things going into the spokes.
Currently using a rigid DMR one that pushes up, just like the sort you can't use. Its great though

Currently using a rigid DMR one that pushes up, just like the sort you can't use. Its great though

Great, lol

Might try a half link chain and a push up tensioner and see if that works.

Although TBH I'm not sure why I'm being adverse to buying chain/sprockets, they're only about £23 for a chain and sprocket while the tensioner is £20!

Standing starts are where the torque spike comes from on my bike.
I'm heavy.
it's heavy.
a big ol' swingarm compressing, extending and altering chaingrowth/tension probably doesn't help.
No idea how we could quantify those differences.
be interesting to find out how much power you're puting in bouncing up a climb in comparison to me sprinting from a standstill though.

No idea how we could quantify those differences.
be interesting to find out how much power you're puting in bouncing up a climb in comparison to me sprinting from a standstill though.

Power equals force x velocity, so we're probably similar (or I or you would have the same power sprinting a DH bike as climbing an XC bike even if were not equally fit).

Force isn't necessarily proportional to power is what I'm getting at. If a bike is slow (and XC bike going uphill stuck on a root) the force is higher for the same power.

It's a deviation from my main point though, riding XC (i.e lots of pedaling) destroys thin pressed steel cogs in no time, and they destroy freehubs too.

the chain can still skip when really pressing uphill from a standstill

I think you already know that the answer is to replace the drivetrain, you tight get! 😀