[Closed] Anyone spare me 5 mins? Spoke length

Boost or non boost? And assume J bend or straight pull?

295/297 front, 296/295 rear assuming j-bend and not straight pull hubs.

Hmmmnnn.

I got 295 297 front

297 296 rear.

Did you have it on 28h?

Thank you- need to see who's got it right?

And yes j bend boost

Ok, so assuming your DT 350's are BOOST (Classic DBIS Boost) and 28 spoke J-bend with standard DT Comps and therefore 2.0 / 15mm Squorx nips, and taking all numbers in the DT Spoke Calc as gospel:

front left 294.9 / 295
front right 296.7 / 297

rear left 295.9 / 296
rear right 294.9 / 295

Obviously you should measure your own hubs / rims etc rather than trusting internet numbers but you already knew that... 😀

Cheers guys. Appreciate your time.

I must have screwed up as you agree with each other. Thats saved me a headache!

Dya reckon I can get away with buying a box of 295 and 296 and rounding the 296.7 down?

Will save buying three sizes that way!

At a guess if you've got 297/296 rear with those numbers you've picked the wrong hub.
350 classic DBCL Boost will give the rear numbers you got, but it's centre lock not 6 bolt...;)

Thanks again guys. Much appreciated.

Any experienced builders... could I get away with 296 all round?

Also where's best in the UK to buy/order double butted black spokes?

You can get away with lots of things but the build will be slightly harder and you'll always know that you bodged it 😉

LBS

Not 100% it will be a brodge though?

Anyone well experienced in building wheels know?

I've done a fair few pairs before so confident in the actual process. Just not speccing the kit.

I guess it depends if you have a good price on boxes of DT Comps. You could build that all with 296's although it wouldn't be as easy. Also you're stuck with available lengths unless you know someone that shortens and thread cuts spokes...

Or you could go front 296L / 298R and rear 296L / 296R.

That would be the better approach, you shouldn't really round down spoke lengths. Also happens to match Rose's stock...

Reason for not rounding down is spoke engagement. It's in picky land, but if a spoke is shorter than it should be there isn't as much to wind in to the nipple and you potentially end up snapping spokes at the nipple because angles aren't supported correctly. Plus, you're making life harder than it needs to be truing and tensioning.

In terms of spokes I’ve bought aci dB stainless black spokes from Cycle basket in the U.K. Really quick service and delivery and the spokes seemed pretty good.

If you want Dt Swiss then Rose Bikes were the cheapest when I looked - they didn’t work out much more then the ACI ones.

If you want custom lengths there is a wheelbuilder in Bristol that doesnthem (maybe Ryans wheels?) but they do work out expensive.

Thanks again.

Will rounding 0.7mm down really matter?
The other option will mean rounding up 1.3mm And 1.1mm on the same wheel... Would that have a chance of running out of spoke thread?

It's the difference between buying 3 boxes of 296 or 3 boxes of 296 and 1 box of 298 so only a tenner.

I built up a set of XM481s onto some straight pull 350s last year and just used the same spoke length everywhere (calculator was saying there was only 2mm difference between the shortest and longest). They haven’t exploded yet and I clock in well above 110kg with my kit on.

I ended up buying my straight pull sapim race spokes cut to length from spoke for Ryan as they were close to the cheapest I could find those and I needed a fairly odd size because of the straight pull hubs.

Went with 3 boxes of 296 and a box of 298. Gives options

Thanks all for input into this

Vinvie and simon, cheers for time with the calculators!