Hi Phil, unfortunately had to cancel as my wife went into labour the night before! Sod's law, c.four week window for a baby to arrive and she chose the day I was due to test the Nicolai! Hopefully going to rearrange for a week on mon/tue depending on whether Toby is around although I'm guessing he's very busy with Eurobike at the moment.
Given the cockpit length of a L is similar to an XL of progressive makes like a Transition., other than the reach and head angle, how do those guys get on in the tight and steep?
5lbs! The Patrol frame weighs within 100g of the Nicolai according to their specs and me weighing a L (
On a scale guaranteed +/-1g accuracy) which is bigger then the transition L) so that difference can only be parts unless you're on the carbon. In which case it's 1lb lighter as a fram
For me & my riding style, a decent size large works to be around 460mm reach & 65/64 degree head angle. I ride a bit off the back of the bike, so super long stuff and really short stems creates some odd handling traits I don't like. I had similar feelings with a Mondraker a few years ago - I felt like you need to super aggressive over the front of the bike to get it to work properly in the corners, which made it hard work to ride unless you were wringing it's neck all the time.
The WB made it feel like a bit of a barge for me - it's got ~10cm on my Patrol & that coupled with having to ride it very differently just made it feel like it didn't work. As I said, if I lived somewhere that warranted it a bit more it might be a little more suitable. The ideal bike for me is probably a 130mm travel Patrol in reality - but then I'm quite a fussy one with what I like.
I should mention my Patrol is the carbon one - looks to be a couple of pounds lighter on paper. The spec of mine is light - coming in at just under 28lbs, the Nicolai certainly felt like a bit of a heffer by comparison. Again, going by my experiences.
That said, I can see merit as I said before in the design other people live in areas much more suited to this bike so it works for them 🙂
Can certainly imagine that someone who rides off the back of the bike would find it not suiting. Reminds me of that thing I read about Danny Hart doing tht run in Champery with a dry tyre up front and a spike out back - there's a whole spectrum of ways to ride and setups that suit.
I think I do ride more centred or towards the front, so I'm loving mine, been having a ball with it, not finding the length to be a negative in any way. (Or at least I was, until my cranks shattered this morning, but that's another matter)
Tis true, it doesn't work if you don't work the front. I admire peeps that know what they like and what does and doesn't work for them.
I never really realised how much a more currently conventional set up didn't work for me until I began down this road with a Mondraker a few years ago. I just could never get confident in the front.
How about an "Extra Longest"?
The Surrey hills requires such a monster?
Tis true, it doesn't work if you don't work the front. I admire peeps that know what they like and what does and doesn't work for them.
I never really realised how much a more currently conventional set up didn't work for me until I began down this road with a Mondraker a few years ago. I just could never get confident in the front.
interesting that Danny Hart used to be a very typical off the back rider but has now hit great form on the Mondraker.
Chainline - Any news on the specs and changes to the new 2017 Geometron (Nicolai G16?). I have noticed that the new one says that the idea of the flip chips is to change travel rather than geometry. Is this do-able with the 2016 frame model? I have a 2016 model and would expect that if i was to fit a 222x70 rear shock and put the geo in the low setting, i would have the 170mm travel but with the geometry of the "high" geometry setting? Have you known this be done? Or is there a known conversion kit that allows 2016 frame users to increase travel whilst maintaining the geo of the low setting? maybe with a revised linkage?
Thanks
Ash
Have just flicked back to page 18 and seen the list of updates that you have already provided... Sorry for my ignorance lol. But yeah, can I achieve an increase in travel on my 2016 frameset?
BTW have you thought about creating a Geometron owners page on FB?
Regards
Ash
New swingarm needed along with the 222 shock I believe.
The revised swingarm does effectively allow both high and low geometry on a std 2016 model.
We wanted to increase the swingarm length on the longest and now XL lengths anyway but it's not for everyone.
You can use offset shock bushes in conjunction with changing the trail key to low to achive a correct BS BB height of 340mm (approx) with a 222x70 mm shock to get ~175mm travel without changing the swingarm, I need to double check with Chris but I recall there is plenty of room between tyre and seat tube at max compression.
This is due to the old trail key moving something like 4-5mm rather than the 6-7mm required. The new trail key obviosly still has a geometry impact if used without changing shock but we optimised the length to accomodate the shock.
I hadn't thoguht about a FB pge no. Perhaps thats a plan!
It's great that people are bothering to actually test ride a Geometron before they say they don't like it!
Awesome news then CL! So if i want to pursue a longer travel from my '16 Geometron all I need do is buy a Float X2 222x70 with offset bushings and i should be able to run low geo with ~175mm travel?
I don't understand why the extra-longest has 5mm longer chainstays "to balance it out" when the other 3 sizes all have the same size chainstay...
Chainline - What would the costs involved be if i wanted to go for a 450mm swingarm if sticking with the standard one were to have an adverse effect on performance?
I don't understand why the extra-longest has 5mm longer chainstays "to balance it out" when the other 3 sizes all have the same size chainstay...
You are right, it would make sense to do the same across the board to achieve the same weight distribution.
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/behind-the-bike-developing-the-xxl-santa-cruz-v10-2016.html
wiggles, I prefer my Longest with the 450mm swingarm. We also suggested to Nicolai that the 2017 Longest and longesterer(c) 😆 both had 450mm swingarms but that didnt make it through. You can feel the difference in balance and how it corners, but it is harder to lift and gives a different feeling to climbing, even more grip on a bike that has a lot of grip to begin with but a friend described it as feeling more like you were pulling the wheel up compared to shorter chainstay bikes and that made it 'feel' less zippy.
A key part of the bike is trying get the weight in the right place. Given mine is running -2deg. HA as well it has a 1350mm odd WB so the longer swingarm is proportional.
ayyjayy95 it's about £300 for the new swingnarm fitted. If you have a low mileage 2016x63 shock Mojo may do a package deal with you to exchange that shock too. Speak to Paul or Chris.
It won't have an adverse effect per se. It just depends whether or not you prefer the charateristics it provides.
I would say it's less critical with a Longest size and standard head angle. It wassuggested that the bike be 1 deg slacker across the range with the ref. 170mm a2c height as mentioned, many have gone out with -1 anglesets in as well as the 180mm fork and no one has gone back to std HA. I have -2 in but mainly because I have 40's fitted and they have a bigger std offset clamp at 51mm which means -2 gives me the approximately the same trail and feel as the -1 with 44mm offset 180mm 27.5.
Where does that leave your HA, CL?
I thought mine was around 62.5 with the 180 fork - -2 must be 81 or less?
It's 61 +/- 0.2 deg on my angle finder taking into account level ground deviation as I also have it in the high setting to get the right BB height for me with the increased travel and to minimise pedal strikes as it is a trail bike not a DH bike 😉
Chainline - Member
It's 61 +/- 0.2 deg on my angle finder taking into account level ground deviation as I also have it in the high setting to get the right BB height for me with the increased travel and to minimise pedal strikes as it is a trail bike not a DH bike
Well yes, you certainly don't want to go too extreme with the geometry 🙂
Chainline - It's 61 +/- 0.2 deg
and yet still people keep suggesting 68 deg is slack.
I was running it at 60.5 in low which actually feels really good but it's a bit too low in the BB imho at ~335mm with 175mm travel for normal riding, you have to be too careful with pedalling. Just hooning down hill is fine though.
The dynamic ride also makes a big difference to pedal strikes/how low is too low I have found, something I hadn't considered before trying to make this longer travel feel like the shorter travel bike, so whether that is managed by higher pressure/less progression in the shock or lower pressure/higher progression.
Its been and continues to be a very interesting and fun journey.
Got a G13 29er on the way too and have figured out how to put a 200mm X2 in and deliver the HA originally wanted so will get that out in the wild in the next 6-8wks.
Chainline - Ok, that seems like a reasonable price. So just to ensure that I understand correctly what you're saying is that with an updated swingarm, my HA will be 1 degree slacker than the quoted HA on the geometry chart with a the referenced 572mm A-C height? So if I were to simply purchase a Float X2 222x70 with some offset bushes and run the trail key in the low position I would essentially be running 170mm travel with a 1 degree slacker head angle compared to the standard 215x64 shock with the trail key in low position? I also noticed that a lot of your pictures are taken at Cannock Chase? Is that a local riding spot for yourself? I am from Wolverhampton myself and would love to see your bike in person and talk through some ideas with you?
Cannock is the nearest trail centre to me so it's fairly easy. happy to catch up.
The swingarm change along with the 222x70mm shock delivers the same geometry as standard which was the intention.
Standard geometry is only standard with the 170mm 36 installed at 559mm a2c. With the 180mm 569mm a2c installed it is 0.5deg approx slacker. In addition the quoted geometry is with Conti tyres of 715mm diameter, which is too tall for most tyres. 'Most' people also run a faster rear and grippier front which generally results in a slightly slacker still stance. Most measured HA's come in at 62.5 - 63deg as 'standard'
I'm surprised to see 572mm referenced unless it includes the 3mm stack for the lower headset which Nicolai often include.
So in summary the swingarm itself changes nothing except allowing the introduction of the 222x70 shock and approx 175mm travel.
This is due to the old trail key moving something like 4-5mm rather than the 6-7mm required. The new trail key obviosly still has a geometry impact if used without changing shock but we optimised the length to accomodate the shock.
I'm pretty sure it's just the trail key insert that has changed so you should be able to get Nicolai to sell you replacement trial key parts as an alternative to using offset bushings.
Thats also true Simon, it is just the amount of adjustment in the trail key that has changed, pretty sure it will be more than £20 however.
Ah ok, so any rough estimates of what the geometry would be like if were to simply purchase a new trail key or offset bushings along with a 222x70 shock on my standard swingarm?
I guess that so long as the final effect is the same I have no preference between bushings or the trail key, though I like the idea of being able to use Fox's plastic bushes tbf.
It would be the same as your current low ayyjayy95 if used in the high setting with the longer shock.
Chainline - Sorry to be repetitive or seem as if I don't have a clue what I'm on about but please bare with me, I'm having a hard time working out the numbers for the overall change in geometry :S I would like to know how you came to that conclusion. Surely a larger E2E would result in a steeper HA/SA. Therefore, using offset bushings to negate the change in E2E would either result in the same geometry after the shock change, or would be to negligible a change to return the geometry to stock, meaning that the trail key in low with a 222x70 shock would give the same geometry as a 215x64 in high? Or would the offset bushings overcompensate for the increase in E2E, making your above statement correct?
I'm confusing myself here... Lol
I think you do know what you are on about but are confusing yourself either that or I'm articulating it badly!
The above is basically correct. Clearly the level of compensation from the offset bushes depends on the offset, this can be changed to suit the desired outcome.
Try this:
With current trail key, 216x63 shock and bike in 'low' setting:
Switching trail key to 'High' and replacing the 216x63 with a 222x70 shock would result in a slightly higher BB and steeper geometry than std low and ~175mm rear travel
Adding one or two offset bushings to the above setup will move the geometry back to std Low with the longer shock in terms of both BB height and geometry with ~175mm rear travel
With new 2017 trail key and 216x63 shock in low setting, bike 'may' be 'slightly' slacker and lower than the 2016 std bike.
Switching 2017 trail key to 'High' and replacing the 216x63 with a 222x70 shock would result in the same BB height and geometry as the std 2016 bike in 'low setting' with a 216x63 shock but ~175mm rear travel.
Using the longer swingarm essentially pulls the seat stays back to allow room for the shock whilst keeping the std BB height and geometry numbers.
Feel free to email if you need to!
Fixed this for ayyjayy95, apologies for writing it the reverse of what was in my head. The lesson, don't do two things at once when you're a bloke!
[i]I think you do know what you are on about but are confusing yourself either that or I'm articulating it badly!
The above is basically correct. Clearly the level of compensation from the offset bushes depends on the offset, this can be changed to suit the desired outcome.
Try this:
With current trail key, 216x63 shock and bike in [i]'low' [/i]setting:
Replacing the 216x63 with a 222x70 shock would result in a slightly higher BB and steeper geometry than std low and ~175mm rear travel due to not enough offset in trail key
Adding one or two offset bushings to the above setup will move the geometry back to std Low with the longer shock in terms of both BB height and geometry with ~175mm rear travel
With new 2017 trail key in 2016 bike and 216x63 shock in old 'high' new 155mm travel position, bike 'may' be 'slightly' steeper and higher than the 2016 std bike in high, tbc.
Switching 2017 trail key to [i]'low'[/i] and replacing the 216x63 with a 222x70 shock would result in the same BB height and geometry as the std 2016 bike in 'low setting' with a 216x63 shock but ~175mm rear travel.
Using the longer swingarm essentially pulls the seat stays back to allow room for the shock whilst keeping the std BB height and geometry numbers.
Feel free to email if you need to![/i]
That G13 looks awesome. Not sure why I'd need it, but I'd sure like it.
[img] 
[/img]
These Geometron geometry based bikes look so much better with 29er wheels...
I don't think it looks better with 29er wheels, but hey.
Got a G13 on the way. I definitely don't need it!
Chainline, has the GPI seen much use? Any issues with the belt or tensioner showing up as the miles rack up?
Chainline - MemberGot a G13 on the way. I definitely don't need it!
Feel free to ship it to me if you don't need it 🙂
There's a few at Aston Hill this weekend. Soho Bikes test day.
http://sohobikes.co.uk/content/demo-day-saturday-10th-september-aston-hill.aspx
Rubber-Buccanneer it has seen plenty of use yes. No issues with drivetrain so far, still on the original demo belt fitted by Nicolai prior to the first test with magazines over 1 year ago.
tooFATtooRIDE had a belt problem but it's the only one I'm aware of so far.
It's back with Mojo at the moment as some of the guys have noticed how fast it is downhill so are doing some stopwatch tests and an EWS.
Of Course Chris has always maintained how fast it is in all corners, over rough ground and downhill due to the CofG and suspension performance, he was less keen on drag and grip shift which just means over a full day it can become wearing...there is work going on....
I had a test ride on the Longest 29er today. To avoid the waffle below I think it's brilliant and I'm pretty certain I'll be putting an order in for a G13.
So after a previous hiccup I met up with one of the guys from mojo who happens to be a Surrey hills local. After 45 minutes chatting and setting the bike up, including a slightly embarrassing car park test, we set off. I'm just over 6ft 3 and 100kg for reference. Boring but very relevant bit first....on the first uphill there was an odd feeling whilst riding along, odd but good. It didn't feel like you were fighting against the hill, but more that my weight was perfectly placed for going uphill. No less effort was required but it just felt like a more natural/comfortable place to be on the bike rather than feeling like I'm falling off the back as is usually the case. On steep, more technical climbs the front remained incredibly composed and I was able to stay seated in areas where on my current bike (XL banshee prime) I'd have to be putting a lot more effort into keeping the front in check. It really is an excellent climber.
On the downhill the bike really is superb. Worries about length are completely unfounded and I'm fairly certain I'll be heading towards the XL size. I'm used to a 490mm reach hardtail so that perhaps helped me adjust but it felt natural from the get go and certain tighter corners, bizarrely, actually felt easier. Corners in general felt really composed and in a straight line over rougher ground it was amazing. I can't really comment on jumping as its not my strength but aside from a timing adjustment I feel the stability of the bike in general plus a similar stable feeling from what little air I got will help progress my jumping.
For me the bike helped make up for my inadequacies. It gave me a much bigger sweet spot where I felt comfortable on the bike and as such I felt more relaxed more of the time. I don't think I've ever felt as confident on a bike where I'm riding at my limit and that, in turn, meant I enjoyed riding more.
When I first saw the geometry I looked at it as a bike that would be amazing for top level riders (that pic of Paul Aston on pinkbike flying miles in the air at cwmcarn comes to mind) who could get the most out of it but the reality is different, it works really really well for your more average joe rider like myself.
Thanks to Chainline for putting the initial test ride plans in place and Toby from Mojo who spent the time setting up the bike, answering daft questions and following me round.
Nice one... that really mirrors my experience on the 27.5 bike, esp the bits about climbing/lack of front wheel lift, and the length just not being an issue coming downhill.
Well Gotama, I'm chuffed you enjoyed it. Toby thought you were pretty damn handy on a bike too 😉
I also think the bike does benefit those of lesser ability like myself.
Honourablegeorge, I didn't say I didn't want it, just don't need it. I releasing one of my other rather less suspended bikes to someone who will use it more than I and it deserves that so I will redirect the funds in the name of further testing, have one or two idea's for twaeks to the G13 from past and present experience..
Managed to get a nice pair of DH hoops for the GeoMetron 27.5 that come in at the 1600g mark along with a new chainguide at 44g and hopefully a bar to drag the weight down to a hair over 31.5lbs whichI think is about the limit to maintain the robustness and none too shabby for a really large alloy 180mm/200mm bike capable of DH use. There's a bit in the crank too but Ilke the Hope, it's bombproof.
I'll be looking to go fairly light on the G13 but realistically that's 29-30lbs even being careful depending on using a 34 or 36 if I still use an X2. We shall see in mid October...
🙂
Nice job on the wheels, what are they?
You might be right on the bombproof cranks.... mine didn't really work out
Honourable george, your crank? Mine are the Hopes and they have been faultless. A faff to fit the first time, but once on, seem to just do the job and can take some rock abuse.
Wheels are a blend of Hope hubs, Sapim CX rays and 32h carbon rims.
@Chainline - thank you so much for helping everyone with questions and demos, truly a great representative and the thread has been extremely useful. I still have some questions though:
1. Have you ever been experimenting with 27.5+ tires - and/or mixing with a 29 up front? I know Seb Stott at Bikeradar have been thinking about it on his POLE EVOLINK.
2. Do you have any experience comparing it to the POLEs?
3. Since the shocks are coming from MOJO, is it possible to have it tuned the way you did yours - 170mm rear, but riding like a 155 until it really ramp up?
Many thanks in advance,
Christoffer Braathen
Oslo, Norway
Been lusting after one of these since seeing one and riding it a little at the Ard Rock
Awesome machine but house buying means i can't have one till the house is bought 🙁
@christofferbraathen I haven't been experimenting with 27.5+ tyres on the Nicolai. I have tried all sorts of tyres on my other bike(s) including 27.5+, 29+, Fat etc. I am not a fan of 27.5+ so far, I much prefer a big volume std tyre up to say 2.5 and with a narrower tyre on the rear, having experimented also with a lot of rim widths I presonally prefer something under 30mm internal now.
I've been trying lots of tyres and wheels on this bike too.
I haven't compared it to a Pole which without a good platform or tuned shock will not pedal anything like the Geometron if you look at the linkage profiles, it does suffer less kickback but I can't say this is large on the GeoMetron and I feel a good balance, partly due to the need to use less rear brake as a result of the geometry. The Pole looks more like it should feel more like a Helius/ 4 bar to me in terms of curves.
Chris is testing a 29er front at the moment and likes it a lot with a narrow wheel and tyre for speed and roll over. I will try it but I'm very happy with the 27.5 front right now. He is trying it in the EWS at Valberg and am sure we will discuss performance afterwards..
If you were to get a 2017 version with so you can use the trail key to choose shock size and specify the 200 x 70 shock, absolutely Mojo can set the shock up to feel like the 155mm in terms of progressiveness, you just need to let whoever you are ordering it from know that or call Mojo direct. It doesnt need any fundamental changes to internals, just spacers and damping set to suit your weight and pedalling style.
Chainline, I have never doubted Chris once in his theories, or yours. I have enjoyed discussing at length the bike with you. A few times in the past I have read others doubting Chris' ability as a racer. I have never seen any footage of him riding a bike, so I have no idea. Is he handy? Good rider/racer? Any edits of him out there? I would love to see him ride the bike he had so much input in, assuming he can get it close to its limits.
I don't think you need to be fast on a bike to know how to make others fast.
I agree. But he does race, and ride hard by all accounts. Would love to see him out his own Geometron through its paces.
Bet he's quietly smiling to himself having seen three forward geo bikes on the WC DH posium
It made me smile. To me the Mondraker 10mm stem was the genesis of all this. I have read every word CP and Chainline have written about these bikes. It's fascinating.
I would love to see what Danny / Laurie could do with the Geometron DH bike underneath them.
I too would like to see what they would do with similar geometry. The Summum isn't far away to be fair, mainly reach differences, HA and CS length are very close, and Chris and Cesar Rojo are buddies.
I think Monsieur Payet could do with an XL...
Chris is handy, certainly faster than me, but as podge said, you don't need to be fast to know how to make a bike work well (does help a bit though I think) I guess we will see some results in his category from this weekends EWS in Valberg where he's racing with Tim.
We are off to ride the Pyrenees in Oct with Doug at Basque MTB with a 'barge' of GeoMetrons, hopefully we can put to bed the question of getting round hairpins... (I went last year so I know but you know...)
Fitting them on the Uplift truck must be the biggest struggle!
Thanks for an informative answer - I have had a similar feeling, that 2.5 - 2.6 might actually be the sweet spot, and maybe like you said, somewhat narrower in the back. I only have my Pivot Mach 6 with ELEVEN6 and 2.35 right now, so no experience on wider yet.
Simon at Nicolai is probably gonna answer my email soon, the order is already placed, and I'll let him know about the tuning of the 220 stroke X2.
The Pole has decent looks, no idea about the effectiveness of EVOLINK. Not so convinced about the execution and quality of manufacturing compared - the more I look at the ION G16 the more I tingle after start building something metal again.
Had originally thought about buying either the Switchblade to go more trail, or the Firebird to go more sled. That's when I saw the ION and started reading. Your input is absolutely crucial in this phase of the marketing/sales launch due to all the sceptics - and no one can blame them. Keep it up, and I think this will really get some traction - if it proves to deliver on all the praisals from the few who has experienced it.
THANKS!!!
Christoffer, Oslo - Out:-)
Short off-topic to anyone wondering about FOX, RS Pike, BOS Deville or Ohlins RXF - I now ride a RS Pike with Avalanche open bath internals, and it is absolutely STUNNING!!! Bottomless, linear butter is the description that comes to mind, and my BOS is now sitting still in the garage, it's that good. But have been wanting to try the new Ohlins RXF 36 on the ION-G16. Hopefully I'll get it ready before the snow comes. Peace.
Christofferbraathen, pay careful attention to setting up the front and rear for balance, it's important they sit similarly and react similarly for balance.
Thinking about the 29/27.5+ Ohlins RXF 36 as an alternative to the MOJO tuned FOX that Nicolai recommends?
Agree, and I have asked in my emails to Simon, but still no answer. Not gonna go down that route unless it's something you/MOJO/Nicolai can stand buy - I have sent him the numbers. The Technical drawing attached below. 51mm offset and probably around 7mm added axle-to-crown height. Thoughts?
[url= https://www.ohlins.eu/download/db/Ohlins_DTC_dimension-drawing-rxf-36--00001804.pdf ]Ohlins RXF 36 29&27.5 160mm Fork - Dimensional Drawing[/url]
The frame will be fine and you will be able to set up the ride as the bike is very flexible in that regard. I'm using 40's after all and have used them at 200mm. Chris is experimenting with the 29 front wheel at the moment with the Fox e-bike specific 36 which is stiffer.
So in terms of the Fork being ok, yes. Check the BB height is where you want it. Perhaps get some offset bushes included from Mojo to fine tune with the trail key. I'd be looking at a 338-345mm BB depending on what you like/use it for/crank lengths etc.
My main point was if you do fit that fork try and make sure that the fork is set up similarly to the shock at least in terms of the support at the sag point.
I completely understand -they need to have the same sag/ride height and blast through threshold. Comprende! The BB height will be checked, and as per usual, I might end up with both the MOJO FOX and the Ohlins RXF - we'll see.
Quick question - I love my PIKE Avalanche Racing Open Bath to death - even better than the BOS Deville if you ask me. How does the MOJO FOX tuned forks compare technically - I know you dont rebuild to open bath.
Thanks a million for all the help - can't wait to get the frame.
Christoffer
I have tried an Avalanche with Pike, It was very similar to my BOS Devile, subtle differences. I prefer my Mojo'd 36 to the Deville, mainly in that the support under braking is even better, the small bump compliance is better with the big negative spring and the friction very low running more oil in both legs. The Deville as still a great fork.
But more than anything the fact the Mojo'd 180 36 matches the x2 in the Geometron in terms of support and response so the whole bike is very balanced.
I dd not get to back to back both the Avalanche and Fox though so can't comment between the two.
Super interesting observation, as that is the only negative I have on the PIKE/AVA combination. And on my Pivot Mach 6, it results in unwanted brake dive and "over the bar" feeling, if the speed is not high enough. My order is now changed at NICOLAI, and as you see below, I added the FOX and have specified, according to you suggestion:
Fox Racing Shox 36 Float 27,5" [b][u]180[/u][/b] HSC/LSC FIT Factory Federgabel
[b]Note to Mojo: CHRISTOFFER BRAATHEN - Setup for 75 KG and to ride like 170/155mm version.[/b]
Fox Racing Shox Dämpfer Float X2 Comp-Lever, F-S,[b][u]222x70mm[/u][/b]
[b]Note to Mojo: CHRISTOFFER BRAATHEN - Setup for 75 KG and to ride like 170/155mm version.[/b]
Can't wait to hear how you get on Chrisofferbraathen! I'm certain you won't be dissapointed. 😀
Here's a (relative) bargain for someone
Longest full bike 4700 Euro
Tweaked now with new wheels, bars, chain guide, rear tyre and tweaked BB height and suspension settings, parts mainly to get the weight down to 31.5lbs, though not the tyre which is just to try out the Aggressor on the rear.
Running 15% sag front 20% rear, -2 angleset on the front with the 40 to give the same trail as a std 27.5 36 and -1 headset if a little more flop factor so slightly quicker steering initiation.
Top of Spooky Woods at Glentress
[img][url= https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8758/29338404593_26906682df_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8758/29338404593_26906682df_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/LGwZxX ]IMG_0390[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/the_pilot/ ]Phil[/url], on Flickr[/img]
Were you trying to sneak into secrets and lies? All the trees fell down 🙁
Chain line how are you finding the tripe crowns? Are they still alright on a pootle say a red at a trail centre or are we taking DH runs only??
My goodness I love the look of that!
All good Wookster. Lovely in every way apart from a bit heavier. I am running them at 180 as Chris provided a pressure ratio/token guide to allow it to be tuned for both weight and curve so they feel a lot like the modified 180 36 in many ways only even more, the damping quality is unlike anything I have experienced before. Stiffness is noticeable but I think not necessary for me (I'm just not good enough or fast enough but I can tell the difference)
So as a direct answer the whole bike is as 'trailable' and as much fun on everything as the std shorter travel rear / 36 forked bike. Obviously it becomes more expensive with the 40 and you have to chuck more money at it to get to the same weight/durability position. So it's an indulgence, but it feels pretty special.
I have just had to fold it in half to fit it in my EVOC bag mind and its not even the XL!
EVOC bag mind and its not even the XL
This is a slight concern with my incoming XL 29er....
How is the clearance on the front mudguard with big tyres? By big I mean 2.5 minion or 2.35 magic mary big.
Great looking bike Chainline but I think I'd feel a bit tad overbiked taking that round the red at GT!
This is a slight concern with my incoming XL 29er....How is the clearance on the front mudguard with big tyres? By big I mean 2.5 minion or 2.35 magic mary big.
It'll fit the EVOC, you'll just need to unbolt one end of the shock to fold it in.
There is plenty of clearance on the mudguards for a 2.5 Minion.
It'll fit the EVOC, you'll just need to unbolt one end of the shock to fold it in.
As it happens post typing my post and looking at Chainline's bike I realised that would be an option. Good to know though.
There is plenty of clearance on the mudguards for a 2.5 Minion.
Great, will add one to the ever expanding bill!
Shandy - MemberIt'll fit the EVOC, you'll just need to unbolt one end of the shock to fold it in.
Is that with fork on or off?
(Longest 27.5 here)
Great looking bike Chainline but I think I'd feel a bit tad overbiked taking that round the red at GT!
Nah, it's fine if you wear these...
[img] 
?itok=pKJxdwZu[/img]
[img] 
[/img]
Is that with fork on or off?
Fork on, its not even a tight fit on the Longest once you unbolt the shock.
Cool, thanks.
Gotama, It is in my EVOC, but I had to remove the shock not just un-bolt it. Remember I have -2 headset too which adds the thick end of 30mm wheelbase. Not an issue with doing that though, it's a 2 minute job.
The 29er XL is no longer Gotama, in fact its shorter overall than this one as I also have longer chainstays, so assuming a std head angle you should be 15mm or so shorter than this one...
Gotama, It is in my EVOC, but I had to remove the shock not just un-bolt it. Remember I have -2 headset too which adds the thick end of 30mm wheelbase. Not an issue with doing that though, it's a 2 minute job.
The 29er XL is no longe than mine Gotama, in fact I'd say its shorter overall as I also have longer chain stays, so assuming a std head angle you should be 15mm, maybe more shorter than this one, wheels off of course.
In terms of the tyre, I agree with Shandy, I run a MM 2.35 in there and the mudguard is fine on either 36 or 40, can't speak for the 29 just yet...a couple of weeks...
In terms of over biked, nah, what does it even mean really...I used a tad over half the travel on GT red but if you have the ability to go faster you hit stuff harder, but mostly suspension is about traction and cornering grip as much as shock absorption remember. If its set up right I can't see why you'd want less if you deliver the package in the same or a similar weight (IF the weight is an issue) as long as it pedals right.
I ended up giving two short impromptu demo rides over the course of the day. One because a guy said why have you brought a DH bike, must be a brick...so I let him ride it, it was a shock to find it pedalled better than his 5 and was lighter..
The second to a Bronson C XL rider, who's first comment was that he'd need a bigger frame, which made me laugh as I felt his bike was small dynamically (similar overall length cockpit with what felt like a huge stem) which it was physically in comparison once out of the saddle. I think it was the impression as the Bronson felt so tall and short to me. He then got back on his own bike and said it felt really weird, not the first time I've heard that.
In terms of over biked, nah, what does it even mean really...I used a tad over half the travel on GT red but if you have the ability to go faster you hit stuff harder, but mostly suspension is about traction and cornering grip as much as shock absorption remember. If its set up right I can't see why you'd want less if you deliver the package in the same or a similar weight (IF the weight is an issue) as long as it pedals right.
Been thinking about this and would not a shorter travel bike give you a bigger bb drop and hence all the benefits that come with it?
Is anyone relatively short riding a Geometron I'm a bit over 5'7" with a 29-30" inside leg and am considering one of these if I can manage to wangle a cash payout from the insurance co following the theft of my trail bike.
Would even the Long be too much? I was riding a Medium 2010 Tracer with a 35mm stem, offset bushes and the seat quite far forward and that was about as long as I'd felt comfortable. I'm no racer and this'd just be used for occasional razzing about and uplift so it may be overkill. Having said that my DH bike is/was (it doesn't get built up much) a Keewee Chromo 8 and that was one of the longest bikes ever at the time and I've never had a problem on that with the seat in the fwd position - kind of mimics this geo to an extent I guess.