I should say basic geometry, Always room for tweaks to allow adaption to component configs.
PSA;
Geometron bikes is replacing the demo fleet..
Used, well maintained frames/bikes with 4 year warranty on Frame.
info@geometronbikes.co.uk or call 01600 887550
G13s, G16s and G19s
Give the guys a follow on instagram/facebook too.. geometronbikes, mojorisin66 on instagram and geometron bikes and Mojo Rising on FB
Just finished building up my G13, taken a while but I know it'll be worth it.
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Frame / Geometron G13 (Longer)
Shock / Fox Float CTD (custom 185mm length)
Fork / Fox 34 Performance Elite, 140mm travel
Drivetrain / SRAM GX Eagle
Brakes / SRAM Code RSC, 200mm rotors
Wheels / RSP Chosen hubs, Alex Volar rims
Tyres / Specialized Hillbilly/Butcher Grid 2.35”
Bar / Truvativ Descendant 800mm
Stem / Truvativ Descendant 40mm
Grips / DMR Deathgrips (Thin/Soft compound)
Headset / Superstar Components Slackset (-2º)
Seatpost / RockShox Reverb, 170mm drop
Saddle / Fabric Line
And yes, I know about the tyre logo positioning - the wheels came with them fitted like that and I just want to get out and ride it rather than faff!
Tasteful! Very nice looking.
tis lovely..
Hi all,anyone care to share there fork and shock settings,I’m curious to see if I can liven mine up a touch,it’s a first generation geometron with x2 and fox 36rc2,just feels a touch flat and I only had suspension serviced a couple of months ago,cheers
Very cool Sim!
Maca
Base settings
Fork 180mm travel no neg bump stop, 2 x blue spacers
Pressure to suit but 20-25% sag
HSC 22, LSC 22 (fully off!) rebound 13
Shock max spacers pressure to suit 20-25% sag
HSC22 LSC22
HSR17 LSR 3
If you can’t get what you need from it have a chat with Paul to talk options.
Thanks chainline,will try those out
Hey guys! Happy new year!
This might not be the right thread but I’ve got some questions regarding my Nicolai GPI Pinion Gates Carbon drive.
Crazy idea, but was wondering if it’s possible to convert the pinion on the GPI to use a chain as compared to the gates belt.
Am just curious to see if it’s more efficient to pedal using the chain or the belt.
Thanks in advance!
Crazy idea, but was wondering if it’s possible to convert the pinion on the GPI to use a chain as compared to the gates belt.
I hope it's not crazy, I may well covert mine to chain when the belt etc wears out. As far as I can see the Pinion chain tensioner should bolt on in place of the belt tensioner. You'd need to get sprockets that are similar size to the Gates sprockets (diameter, not number of teeth) so the chain doesn't saw through the swing arm or mess with pedalling. Can't see why it wouldn't work fine. You should check with Nicolai before spending any money though
A not very good picture from yesterday of mine. Will try to get a better photo on another ride. Loving it at the moment, largely just feels normal, but is harder to manual and wheelie than my last bike (a Lapierre Spicy). Still only three rides in though so will reserve judgement until I've had more time on it.
It's a 2015/16 long and I'm 5'9".
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4598/25690426648_a5f6490c08_z.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4598/25690426648_a5f6490c08_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/F9b9Nu ]20180107_150035[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/33251520@N07/ ]eddkh[/url], on Flickr
Any recommendations for rear shock settings on a G16 with CCDB Air CS?
Only Ion 16 settings on the Cane Creek website, not sure if the suspension curve is the same
Rik, different suspension curve entirely so different settings. Unfortunately I've no idea. Perhaps give Paul a call?
Hello guys,
I have a 2016 model G16, so the non-boost model where the rear pivot runs on a bushing rather than a bearing.
Could anyone please confirm the following:
a) How I remove these bushings (simply with force? Or is there a recommended method)
b) Where I can find replacements from/what size these are.
I had some awful creaking issues a few months back, so I'm giving it all an overhaul and thought it best to replace them.
Cheers,
Craig
It is unlikely it is from the rear bush as they barely move but is possible.
You should ideally press them out. There is a tool you use to press them out. I had some made ages ago. You can ‘tap’ them out if careful but it’s not the official method!
It does mean removing the rear swing arm if you press them out/in with a vice. Might be possible with a beefy G Clamp, I’ve never tried that one.
GeoMetron bikes will be able to supply replacements.
I might have some new ones in my toolbox. I’ll check.
Just seen the slight price rise in the frames. Fair enough as the prices have been static for a good while. On the other hand it’s a few more months saving added to the time line!
Still time to get fit and thin enough to really enjoy it I suppose!! 😆
Wookster, the Euro and production costs have finally hit I'm afraid, but I think it's still good value for a premium product.
Agreed mate no problem with it! Just puts the “push the button” date back a few months!!! 😉
Hi got a few build questions for those of you in the know,
Is anyone running SRAM shifters mech etc on the Geometron? I understand that Chris Porter prefers Shimano stuff as you can turn the mech off.
Also I'm sure I read somewhere that the bike was designed to run a 32 tooth front ring as a minimum? Is that right, or am I having a moment? Cheers!
Hi
I moved my build kit over from my previous bike onto a g13.
Gx mech/shifter/10-42 cassette, xt800 boost cranks with a 30 tooth chairing.
All works brilliant for me.
Also I'm sure I read somewhere that the bike was designed to run a 32 tooth front ring as a minimum? Is that right, or am I having a moment? Cheers!
I'm running a 28t ring, works for me (2015/16 G16).
Great thanks all, current have a 30 front ring and an 10-42 cassette and really like the set up, so that's a positive!!
The G16 is designed around a 30-34t ring. The change is in the antisquat/feedback level.
Use what works is the key but its all front/rear gear relative so not as simple as just the front ring.
I have used Sram on GeoMetron, all works not problem, lots of examples out there.
Chris does prefer to run without a clutch. I do too, but not using the clutch wore out my xtr cage pivot in the end!
You can turn off the the Sram clutch with a manual hack if you want.
The suspension does work noticeably better but whether that is quantifiably better or if it matters at all to us mortals without a bar mounted stopwatch is much more debate-able..
For me the difference is very marginal with the clutch on or off. I mainly notice that my Shimano gears change more smoothly without the clutch but the racket it makes Downhill is horrendous. It feels like the mech will tear itself apart and both times I wrecked a rear mech recently the clutch was off and the mech wrapped itself around the spokes. I have found the best compromise is clutch on but wound off to the lightest setting.
Can anyone advise me on shock mount hardware?
I've just spoken to Mojo and they've confirmed that the front mount is 22.2 M8 and the rear is 21.84 M8.
I'm running a Rockshox Monarch and I cannot for the life of me find a Rockshox 21.84 mount. I also can't distinguish between the front and rear mounts that I've taken off the bike - when set on a flat table, they've totally flush with one another (supplied as stock from Nicolai). Is it possible that they sent the bike out with 22.2mm mounts front and back?
Do 21.84 Rockshox mounts even exist?
Thanks as always.
Nicolai have details here
http://www.nicolai-bicycles.com/shop/techsheet
Which suggests 22.2 front and rear for the ones I checked.
Sorry I should have clarified - I did check the tech sheets etc. but had been given conflicting information from different sources.
Mojo said 22.2 / 21.84 and then Nicolai got back to me and said both mounts were the same and either 22.0 or 22.2 (they weren't sure as they changed the specs at some point and couldn't tell which would apply to my frame!) Obviously this was less than ideal...
Anyhow, I ordered x2 22.0 and as far as I can tell (flush on a table with original hardware etc.), that fits fine.
Just wondered if any of you guys had similar experiences/could shed more light on the situation. My frame is a 2016 G16 bought direct from Nicolai.
I think this has caused a little consternation in MojoR/Geometron bikes! Mine is two different sizes.
I think this has caused a little consternation in MojoR/Geometron bikes! Mine is two different sizes.
I think this has caused a little consternation in MojoR/Geometron bikes! Mine is two different sizes.
If anyone is interested......
My G13 in Longer is going to be up for sale soon as a rolling chassis.
Get in touch if you're interested . Going to miss it but i change my bike every year and only have room for one mtb at a time so it must go!
Webbe, the bushings at the rear of the chain stays almost never wear out. They do however have the older bushing system that Nicolai used to use throughout on previous models. There is a grub screw and a bushing cap so you can actually adjust as the bushing slightly wears so:loosen the grub screw then tighten the bushing cap bolt (roughly finger tight) then snug up the grub screw and that will remove any creaking/play in that area. That said, creaking is rare on a Nicolai my first suspect for that would be fox shock bushings. If you do feel the need to remove the bushings on the chainstay I strongly recommend buying the specialist drift from Nicolai. I went the whole hog and bought the bearing removal tool which makes bearing replacement a doddle. I think Geometron bikes probably sell these too.
Rolls-Royce, what are you getting in place of the G13?
My creak was a loose Cinch chairing. Drove me mad... seems obvious now
I've just picked up a used Nicolai frame in the raw finish. Does anyone have any tips on looking after it?
Do you mean in terms of looking after the raw aluminium? Mine's a raw finish and I'm not aware of anything, I suppose you could give it a polish but that's only cosmetic. The aluminium seems to be buffed to look slightly dull anyway so never going to come up that shiney
Question about my geometron...
Thought id hijack this thread for this one...
I have a geometron longer running 180 lyrik forks, with a 222mm x2 rear shoc, 27in wheels. Im led to believe this means i have 175mm rear wheel travel. The flip chip is in the less slack position and the previous owner of the frame told me i had to leave it like this if im using the longer shock.
Today i depressurised the shock to put volume spacers in...with the shock fully compressed i noticed that the rear wheel is a long way from contacting the seat tube and i cant see any other obvious problems from the rear end compressing a bit further.
What is the reason for not flipping the chip over to super slack mode? Peddle strikes? somethong else?
aldo, bilbo , use scotchbrite pads unless you do actually want to polish it. Normally comes supplied with one.
Just use it if you get any oxidisation or marks. no other maintenance required.
ndthornton, it sounds like you may have one of the original longer travel models with the extended chainstay to accommodate the longer shock. It isn't necessary to leave it in the less slack position but you do need to be careful with the BB height and to set the bike up accordingly.
If you switch the chip over to low and check the height that will tell you. You don't want to go lower than 333mm really and at that it's best to ensure the shock is set up around 20-25% sag or to balance the compression damping to give the right dynamic ride height fo the terrain and riding style ou have (if you are excellent at managing pedal position and not on undulating pedally terrain you may be fine with a lower dynamic ride height etc...)
Far too quiet on here... Because the weathers shit?
Still loving mine 🙂
Possibly less people looking at buying frames at this time of year?
Still love my G16, I love it that much I have acquired a G13 second hand to compliment it but not got my hands on it yet.
roll on the dryer weather
I've been in hibernation more than ever this year. It feels like winter has been 4 years long.
I'm off to Wales tomorrow though. First ever trip to BMCC followed by another day at BPW.
Still love the bike though. Sometimes I just sit in the garage and twist all the knobs.
Chainline, why do you/mojo run such bonkers rebound settings?
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/vorsprung-tuesday-tune-ep-21-low-high-speed-rebound-video.html
You can see from the Vorsprung that the closing the low speed rebound and opening up the high speed ends up with a really whack rebound curve, to slow on the small stuff and too bouncey deep in the stroke.
If anything, you should be doing it the other way around - getting the fastest low speed rebound that you can and tuning the HSR until deep compressions don't buck you.
Has anyone run a cane creek double barrel shock on their g16? I've got one to try for use in place of the X2 when conditions suit and hoped someone might have some set up tips.
Just curious what you mean by the following?
when conditions suit
Aren't CCDB and X2 shocks pretty comparable? (Both are piggyback shocks with independently adjustable HSC, LSC, HSR and LSR.)
Coil is different to air though. Even on base set up there is notable extra grip. Uplifts, Alps, even trips to the Tweed valley potentially. So when I feel like it in short.
Fair enough, hadn't realised one was coil and one air.
In CP’s words; Because it's not true high speed adjustment. It's a preloaded valve adjustment. The only way to make the transition from high speed to low smooth is to remove the preload from the high speed valve...
So I want a long 29er. G16, G15 or a Pole Evo link 158?
Does anyone use 29" wheels in the G16? Thoughts?
Thank you!
I had 29 wheels on a mojo g16. But changed it to they hybrid setup as it's easier to turn in. With 29 front and rear it feels like it's taking mor effort to turn the front wheel.
the next upgrade I'm looking at is the evil air can for the x2. Which can take up to 300psi anyone tried it yet?
ganic, I can't answer which, they are a little different. yes I have and do still use 29 wheels though not all the time, a number of owners are running 29.
I personally wouldn't go with a G15 over a G16 (flexibility, tyre clearance, intrinsic HA and SA) unless you are committed to 29 wheels in which case with the addition of an angle set it can deliver the same angles as a G16 and be great. But that is a personal position as ever, some may prefer the G15 angles, it is essentially a long travel G13 and many are super happy with it, including some guiding companies (Rivierabike springs to mind)
The thing as ever, is to try and ride them and see which you prefer. Especially true of trying a hybrid 27.5/29 in my experience lately as many are surprised by how it rides.
The Pole and GeoMetron have quite different suspension designs and ride feel as a result of that, although not particularly different geometry to the G15 but different to G16.
Curous about the G13 vs the G16 - anyone spent time on both?
Use my hardtail for a lot of less gnarly stuff, trail centres, etc, where I the G16 is a bit overkill. Like the idea of a G13 as a lighter, more trail oriented bike ,but not sure it would actually be that much lighter or be all that different.
hounourablegeorge, I have just bought a second hand g13 to compliment my g16 as a lighter more trail oriented bike but not had chance to compare yet, will reply again in a couple of weeks once I have feedback
Thanks sk... got eyes out for a second hand longest frame myself
Saw a couple of guys going fast on G13's and G16's at the SES event at Laggan. Plenty of folk curious about the bikes....
I have had the G13 for about a year. Obviously it depends how you build them, but they do feel quite different and lighter/easier to pedal than the G16 27.5.
If you are looking for an "XC" version of the G16 they are hard to beat. I have done quite a lot of big days out on mine and used it round local loops and trail centres. If you want to have something more efficient for really long rides, or fast for an hour flat-out, they're great.
Over the last couple of years I've got a lot fitter which has meant I've become less bothered about easy pedalling. I've also got a bit bored with "XC" rides and I'm nearly always riding steeper/rougher trails, so I've ended up with a hybrid G16.
The G13 is a Longest with a -2 works headset, 34s, Traildog carbon wheels, XT, 170mm Reverb. I've been meaning to list it for sale for a while as a complete bike but I would probably be prepared to split it if I had to.
I just bought a 2nd hand G13 and had my first trip on it to Cwm Carn. We did both XC loops then spent the afternoon doing uplifts on the downhill trails. It did both very well though for the latter trails I was left wondering what the LT version would feel like.
@Chainline, what shocks would you recommend?
I went with the G16 in XL. Running it as full 29er with 216x63 shock in 222 position. BB is 345mm, head angle must be near 62 degrees which makes me abit concerned for forks bushing life. A to C of fork is 568mm.
Does anyone know the maxle size needed to replace the stock bolt-thru for the rear, I know it's 12x148 but is it 182 or 188? I suppose I could just measure.......
So far so good, just need to sort out a water bottle.
It climbs much better than I thought it would.
Climbs great 😉
Keep on top of lower services and make sure to use some additional lube between the bushes when assembling. You can also swop foam rings for a packing of slickhoney or similar to enhance smoothness (assmuming a Fox fork.
I'm finding myself wanting a bottle cage on my G16 more and more.
I was going to go with the Specialized side load cage with one bolt on the top cable stop and some cable ties, liek the pic below - but then stumbles on this thing - the Wolf Tooth B-Rad
Wondering if I could put the longest B-Rad along the downtube, bolted to two of the cable guides - then mount a bottle to it in similar position to the pic. Lot of bother to avoid the cable tie solution, maybe.
hi all,
My g13 was making a clunking sound under hard pedaling. 1 bolt check and it's the drive side chainsaw pivot which is rattling
Tightening it up, the bolts tighten and stay tight, the bearing is smooth, but the bearing is rattling on the bearing .
I guess the solution is a new bolt that goes through the bearing?
I am riding the south downs way this weekend, will wrapping the bolt in ptfe/ electrical tape take up the slack for 100 miles?
Any suggestions welcome!
Honorable George
I ran a cage with one bolt in the cable stop and one zip tie.
It was fine for me, but the zip tie did look a bit bodged 🙂
Thanks Martin - I measured up, there's 300mm between the stops, so the longest B-RAD is too short for what I wanted to do anyhow.
Goig to go with the Specialied Zee cage as per pic above, with the janky cable ties
Any one on a Ion 16 GPI.. ............
If so how many miles are you getting out of a belt?
How did you get on with the bottle cage in the end? did you end up with the Spesh option?
Going through similar thought process myself
Any one on a Ion 16 GPI.. …………
If so how many miles are you getting out of a belt?
Mine has only done 753.3 miles (according to Strava) and looks used but no plans to change it. It isn't the bike I do the most miles on but it has seen some horrible muddy conditions so is holding up OK.
I bought the cage, but not had a chance to fit it yet, been using a hip pack for now. Will need to be cable ties only, the one cable bolt I hoped to use is too far forward.
If I get time tonight I'll tie it on and see how it goes.
Must say, I am very happy so far with the GLF. Jeez, it sends some pressure through the hands though!
Why the break in the seat stay though? I can't seem to figure out why this is there.
Wrecker-
Is it so you can use a belt instead of a chain?
I thought that but I can't figure out how this particular feature would work. The chain stay is unbroken. It's a Pita to get the wedge back in too!
It will be so you can use a belt drive. You only need one break to get the belt through the chain stay just has to flex to allow the seat stay break to be opened enough to get the belt through
Yeah makes sense, especially with the sliding drop outs.
Thanks Buccaneer
Read on here a post about plus size tyres (27.5") on a G13.
Was thinking of getting a set of wheels and running some on mine.
Has anyone had any success with the clearance on the rear or is it too tight with let's say a 2.8 tyre?
There is enough space for a 2.8 I would suggest. I am not aware of anyone using them on a FS but am aware of their use on the GLF
Tried a wtb 2.8 on the 2016 gpi with the 142 dropouts last weekend.
It fits, with reasonable clearance for summer or low mud conditions.
Unfortunatley though it catches the belt pully arm when the rear is unloaded on the gpi so didnt try riding it.
I have a G16 with boost rear, set up as a 29er. Running a 2.5 minion dhf on the back does result in a slight rub on the chain stays under hard cornering loads. It is only slight though, I have it Heli taped so it hasn't rubbed through that.
Switched to a 2.4 minion dhf now.