Anyone ridden the Mojo Nicolai yet?

I thought the G series were Nicolai's own version of the Geometron philosophy not direct copies.

Fairly sure Chainline mentioned something about different seat angles and slightly different pivot placement for suspension dynamics.

It can be confusing..

G series is Nicolai's 'version' of the GeoMetron.

They were the same but then Mojo proposed some changes to this years models to make everything standard without 'Mojo' specials. Nicolai weren't sure about going that far immediately on the G16, G13 or G19 versions.

So the Mojo GeoMetron G16 (27.5) is different from Nicolai's version, it is a specific Mojo version. It is slacker, has a different BB set up.

The G13, what Gotama has, is a standard Nicolai bike, still derived directly from the GeoMetron.

The GeoMetron 29er, as produced originally by Chris is longer travel but is a custom order, it is not the same as the G13. It is slacker (the same as the std GeoMetron essentially) and 155mm rear travel and has a steeper seat angle being based entirely on the GeoMetron.

A really great, brave move by Nicolai this year, but not quite as brave as Mojo would have liked to have gone (I think there was as bit of a timing issue), perhaps understandably, the German market is still their main market and remains fairly conservative, customers there have however welcomed the GeoMetron (hence why they have gone this way across the range) but to go that far with the 29 immediately was clearly too far too soon...

So in summary the G13 is a stanard Nicolai. You can have a GeoMetron 29 as a custom order.

The Mojo GeoMetron G16 is a unique model. One way to tell is if it has Ion in the seat gusset as the moment that is a Nicolai version. If it says Mojo, then its specific to Mojo.

Currently looking how to allow the use of the front 29" wheel (which Chris likes so much on the GeoMetron) in the GeoMetron (of course with the 29er 160mm fork) but to retain the same key geometry of the 27.5 (with the 180mm fork). It is doable...
I've not tested mine with the 29 front yet (still a huge fan of the 27.5) but I will do. The paper numbers make interesting reading...

Thanks for the detailed replies Gotama and Chainline it clears things up completely.

I do love my Enduro but fully understand that loving/hating a bike is a purely personal thing so no offence taken when you say you don't like them Gotama. It definitely feels on the small side but back when I bought it it was one of the biggest XL's there was available. Plus it was my dream bike at the time so I guess I was never going to think badly of it! I wouldn't mind losing some rear travel as I rode all of the same stuff on the Stumpy (Wales, Peaks, Alps etc.) which was 135mm travel and it rarely felt out of it's depth. I live 5 minutes away from Cannock Chase so most of my riding is there and it isn't exactly the most challenging of places but Shropshire, Mid Wales and the Peaks aren't far from here either. My favoured riding is much the same i.e. natural trails rather than bike park stuff even on my DH bike. I'm pretty sure I have never managed a stylish looking jump in my life! 😆

Saying all that if I could have 155mm travel over 135mm on a bike that rode the same then I would. More is always better right? 😉 I'm guessing that there is a cost implication though and that the 'standard' G13 is cheaper.

I admit to being amazed how well received the Geometron geometry has been received in Germany given how short, steep and generally conservative their home market bikes have been up until relatively recently.

The mixed wheel size thing is intriguing, I can remember talking to Steve Jones about it at the FoD a while ago (which is where I got the idea for the 650b shock yoke) and later reading about it on the Dirt website. He thought the Enduro with that setup was a beast. For Chris to be so keen on it shows that it must be good. Give it a go Chainline it would be very interesting to see what a "normal" rider thinks of it. Not that I'm saying that you're not a good rider though!

Thanks again for taking time to advise, it is much appreciated.

stompweaver, I've had a few 29/27.5 setups on my rigid bikes and I like it.

The G13 is intended much more as a do it all bike than can nail DH but ultimately if it gets really gnarly it will get tougher.

As a go-to ride short or far on anything I think it's gonna be great. Can't wait to get mine. But I am also a tinkerer so will try the 29 front.

We also looked at the angles for dropping the 27.5 in the rear of the G13 and resetting the geo with a longer shock. I think that also works but it leaves the end result steeper than if you do it with a GeoMetron at 170mm rear and since the testing is still about pushing the limits it seems more sensible to focus on the GeoMetron version of that.

I want to try the G13 at sub 63HA. Based on the experiences we have so far, including Chris with the 29 front, it should steer even better and brings the SA back a bit too (but 0.5deg can be gained from 10mm of rail position and not everyone likes it very steep, as ever all different).

A nice -2 headset in there should go nicely...With that in and a 150mm fork it gives exactly the same trail, mechanical trail and flop values as my GeoMetron with -2 and 40's (Due to the 40's having 51mm offset, close to the 29 fork)

Of course it will feel different dynamically (which is the key thing here) as the 29 wheel has a different foot print on the trail, grips differently, I know from discussions with Chris it will feel different to turn it too, and his experiences with a different size rear wheel change things too for corner initiation but the static numbers are a good base to go on for steering feel.

I'll be watching your tinkering with interest Chainline. Does there come a point where it is too slack and if so have you and Chris found that limit yet?

Gotama, Yes definitely. about 59deg according to CP. Even more applicable for trail use. We both seem to have settled around the 61deg mark with 27.5 front.

Chris has approx 62 on his 29 front version of the GeoMetron (pretty sure he hasn't dropped offset bushes in (we both think 29 needs a higher BB than a 27.5 for complicated reasons mainly around flip flop cornering (you can't get away from greater gyroscopic inertia in the 29 but riding style etc etc all come into it) but also braking and related to BB drop and weight transfer (all theory)

With the big sizes XL and XXL you start to struggle a little to keep dropping HA with anglesets as the HT is already quite tall to accommodate the bigger riders the front can get too tall which may mean changing bar/stem but not always possible etc.... I'd find it slightly easier as I'm on a longest, but that's also to do with the fact Chris is using an XL but by conventional sizing would be on a L, at 6ft he hasn't got the upper body height of a 6'2" or 6'4" guy who wouldn't have the height issue.

So the upshot is there is definitely a limit. There is data for that limit for a 27.5 but not yet proper data for either a 29 front or the 29. I'll give it a go but can only go so far before compromises kick in a little around BB height. I've some idea's..

Has Chris come around to the 29er yet Chainline?

ION GPI in 29er/27.5er setup.

[img] [/img]

Wookster not the full 29, but he is liking the 29 front, as long as it is suitably slack creating the right steering characteristics.

Difficulty is balancing bar height for him on the Xl, it would be easier on the L. We have some solutions for that though...

The other quandry is the fork, he would like longer travel to allow for a bigger neg chamber as on the 27.5 but not a solution for that yet. You can squeeze a 29 into the 40 and then have the flexibility to run 180mm but the bar height/BB height/reach becomes the constraint again.

i can feel a dedicated proto in my bones....

I don't get the issue with bar height, I mentioned this to CP at his Sheffield talk but I don't think he got what I was on about.

He was saying that low bars are good but you cannot get the bar low enough when using triple crown forks as the top of the stanchions are in the way.

If you were to machine custom fork yolks and turn the forks round but leave the axle in the same position so the steering axis remains the same then you'd get the stanchions out of the way and you could drop the bars.

Admittedly it'd look very odd (kind of like an old Girvin Vector) but it would prove the point.

Or just slap some Fox stickers on an upside down fork like the Manitou Dorado, this would give you the room for the wheel and I would imagine its not out of their skill set to retune one to get ride characteristics similar to a 40.

It's cool to watch this being developed! I do love my 29er, it will be interesting to see where this goes!

If you were to machine custom fork yolks and turn the forks round but leave the axle in the same position so the steering axis remains the same then you'd get the stanchions out of the way and you could drop the bars.

Admittedly it'd look very odd (kind of like an old Girvin Vector) but it would prove the point.

Stratos FR4/MX6/S8 used to have the stanchions out front with the axle directly underneath the lowers. Shifting the legs forward definitely affected the steering (was a looonnngggg time ago so cant remember exactly what went on)

shifting the legs forward does not affect steering.
chaining the steering axis to wheel axle dimensions will affect steering.
what you were experiencing is poor design.

thepodge - Member

shifting the legs forward does not affect steering.

If you've just moved (for example) 1.5kg forward off the front of the bike, at least 40mm or so to give the clearance you're looking for, it's going to have an effect

It's resolvable by using a shorter HT I think. and there is scope to do that, of course the problem is that not everyone wants to use a triple clamp 180mm 29er fork so its a properly niche market But also it's related to rider height.

CP is experiencing this problem on an XL bike at 6" tall which in theory is upsizing for him. He has said he'd still be happy riding Longest but likes the additional length, if we were talking a taller rider its less of an issue.

I think there is scope to drop the HT by 20mm min, possibly 30mm wihcih would solve the problem for Chris anyway but if a tall rider of 6'5' had the bike he might need a million spacers and/or would be fine with it as is..

The bar height isn't an issue with the 160mm Fox 36 29er fork, but CP would like to mod that....and prefers stiffness and curves of the 40 in general (when I last spoke to him anyway :wink:)

All of which means if it was you or I on a Longest who wanted to do this it would be fine. Given i'm currently on a 2016 GeoMetron I have an angleset in mine and a 40 which does lift the front by 15mm. IF I applied a 29 front wheel to a 2017 GeoMetron I Wouldn't need it as I would get the same angles with a slight compromise on seat angle.....

legend - If you've just moved (for example) 1.5kg forward off the front of the bike, at least 40mm or so to give the clearance you're looking for, it's going to have an effect

Chainline I know this might seen as heresy by some but has anyone tried a 27.5+ wheel in the back of a 29er Geometron? The slightly smaller overall diameter and extra grip may well be the sweet spot, slacker HA and lower BB worth a try surely? Probably running one of the newer 29x2.6" tyres that are starting to come on to the market now. This was the way I was thinking of going on my Enduro but I'm going to wait until I replace it now.

It'll be very interesting to see how you find the 29/27.5 combo.

Coincidently one of the problems finding a suitable replacement for me is the stack height. It seems virtually every manufacturer is trying to get the stack as low as possible. This might be great for most people but for us big and tall gentlemen we have to load the steerer with spacers reducing precious reach even further. A friend of mine who is taller than me suffers even worse with this issue so for us the higher the better. A super slack front end with decent height sounds perfect! 8)

As an aside DH bikes don't have an issue with bar height on dual crown forks. I run 40mm rise bars just get a reasonable height on my 27.5+ Glory. Why the need to pursue it on trail bikes, surely we are just riding up to go down again that being the fun part?

toofatty that is one sweet ride. I'd love try that, is it yours? 'nuff spacers under the stem too 😉

Get that prototype sorted out with CP Chainline. We are all watching with interest... 😈

In the world of tiny changes that don't really matter then yeah it makes a difference but in this case especially we've already moved half a bike over 40mm forwards versus an off the shelf bike and we're doing it to improve something (lower bars) so it's still a positive.

So 40mm change is or isn't a sizeable one? If it's barely worth mentioning then this thread is way longer than it should be.

We've also suggested that weight doesn't really matter as much as people think

We're not talking about an increase in weight, we're talking about a re-positioning of the majority of the weight of a fork ahead of the axle and steerer with the weight pivoting around a different part of the steering arc (this would change the movement of the fork legs to turn more left-right relative to the pivot point [steerer])

More than happy to be proved wrong when you build this fork.

stompweaver...yes, and I agree, I think you just suported my point abut the stack/HT, it is right for tall people which are the most likely to select such a large bike, CP is pushing the limits so some of the issues I've raised are specific to him.
On the G13, yes already checked it out, the 27.5 in the G13. It was an early plan. Not ridden yet but some concerns about the impact on SA and reach. The intention was to try it with a longer shock to reset the BB height and SA.
The 27.5 drops the rear by approx 10-15mm, putting in a 200x57 grabs about half of that back so the BB would be a bit low. May be able to compensate with the chip but don't really want to make it steeper, would want to add an angleset.....basically the conclusion was it's a less material change and easier to normalise in a Std GeoMetron than the G13.

I've asked Chris to write down some of his thoughts so far so they can be shared here and on the mtbr forum..

In the meantime, i'm working on subliminal messaging for a proto...

I don't understand any of that last bit, you don't pivot around an arc, you pivot around a point.

How does, what does, what is turn more left-right mean?

I'll cad it up when I get to work tomorrow... I presume you'll accept a virtual fork in place of a physical one.

Chainline - Yes my point was as far I and other riders who are 6' plus are concerned at least we don't want or need to be chasing lower and lower stack heights to get the bars as low as possible. There's a lot of rubbish written in the media about bar height and it's resulted in stack heights which aren't suitable for the majority of taller people. I understand we are veering slightly off on a tangent here but I know Chris doesn't do anything without serious technical consideration so it was more a thought out loud as to why he is so keen to get stack and bar height so low. If you could get him to jot down a few thoughts that would be great.

Regarding the 27.5 wheel in a G13 I was wondering if you had tried it with a 27.5+ wheel/tyre combo? So a 27.5x2.8 or 3.0 tyre to see what that did to the geo and ride. You'd gain back a bit of BB height, SA and reach but lose a little HA in the process.

Thanks again for taking the time to post such detailed and informative replies, it's a very interesting topic and is great to get info and feedback from someone who's out there experimenting.

I think CP does quite a bit without 'serious' technical consideration in my experience, sometimes just to try it, if it appears to work, it gets serious technical consideration!

the main perceived advantage of the 29/27.5 set up is that the additional rollover of the 29/rolling speed has the most effect on the front and that the rear is much less affected by hitting obstacles and the suspension becomes a bigger factor (in speed here remember) also that the smaller diameter rear has a tighter turning radius which in the absence of rear wheel steering in theory enables it to track the front more easily in a carve and thus reduce scrub and make the turn faster with more grip, when compared to two wheels the same size. Thats the theory.
Chris is also finding using narrower wheels to be more beneficia (again think speed)l in the back, i.e. sub 28mm internal (the front 29 he is using is pretty damn narrow, I'd be worried about using it and I'm waaaay slower!)

So I guess I'm saying that I don't think there is much advantage at all to using a bigger width/diameter tyre in the rear on the 29. That was the experience I had on my rigid bike in the end, but that was less obvious as there were comfort benefits that aren't applicable to the full suss.

Couldn't you just run a higher rise stem and bigger bars or are you already at the upper limit?

There's a splendidly strange parallel thread going on here!

Chainline soz for the thread drift, it's all interesting stuff though.

I'm glad to hear that Chris follows the same pattern of erm, messing about with stuff that we all do.

I understand the logic of the smaller rear wheel and the turning principle. It makes sense that the rear wheel would turn on a tighter radius if it has a smaller diameter. If the benefit of experience says that it isn't worth running a bigger tyre on the back then that's that proven.

I do like my wide-ish rims though being a clumsy lard, the increase in strength and traction is worth paying for with slower rolling for me.

Right what were talking about? Ahh the Geometron. Do carry on...

When are you getting your G13?

Liteville have been putting big wheels up front & small at the back for years. See here for an explanation of their "scaled sizing":

http://www.liteville.com/en/40/technology/

It makes sense but when I saw one in France it looked gopping.

Only a couple of years Mildred and for different reasons, as you point out theirs is size driven despite the bikes being quite small in other ways.

Stood next to Chris's bike it's quite hard to tell. I'll see if I have a pic from Spain.

Look what they've gone and done

http://ebike-mtb.com/en/exclusive-nicolai-ion-g16-eboxx-3-geolution-e-mtbs/

[img] [/img]

Wish they'd ban them already

Has anyone ridden the hardtail geometron? I had a 29er/650b hardcore soft tail (it's a tad bike niche), it was custom built for me, but it's much too short for me now (I had a serious spinal issue when I had it built, so it's got rather an upright position).

That being said, The 650b 29er combo really work for me so I'd like to give it a try in another bike, I just don't think I need as much travel as these monsters have.

As ebikes go I think it looks better than the rest. probably due to the length. Not my bag at the moment but I'm in good health so far....

Out of interest, why are you trying to lower bar height? The trend in Enduro has been towards a more relaxed and neutral, chest up moto style position to be able to look farther ahead down steep courses comfortably.

Again, tying in with my previous comments about the DH scene - that it's not seen anywhere near as crazy reach values - I think the Enduro racers have found "peak reach" and have started moving towards more DH focussed geometry and riding styles.

Tom, it depends to a large degree on what you are riding, the mix, so for less steep terrain more weight over the front required to maintain grip. More front height can be dialled in for steep terrain easily if you already have the scope in the chassis which in turn reduces reach.

WC DH is a different ballgame too, very steep all the time so yes, crazy reach (I wouldn't call it that of course) less applicable.

It does ultimately come down to personal preference , what you are used to etc etc.

If the front gets too high for a given rider height then driving the front is difficult unless it's steep and then that results in reduced grip, understeer and running wide.. not great.

Hi Chainline,

Bit of basic question here but on the tech sheets it says that the G13 has bottle cage bosses? Where are they on the frame? Please don't say on the underside of the down tube! must be room on the underside of the top tube near the seat tube junction?

quick sizing question...i´m 183cm tall, shall i pick 502 (m) reach, or 520 (l) reach?

Rollsroyce- I saw that on the Nicolai tech sheet as well but can confirm mine doesn't have any. Personally just use a 1l Source flexi bottle thing stuffed in some stash style bib shorts. Works well and you don't get cack all over it as you do with a bottle. If you can get them fitted then I suspect the only sensible space is under the downtube.

About a year ago I was inspired to get a Works -2 deg headset for my Spitfire, thanks to this thread. I got a bit distracted and started designing a hardtail and then put the headset into a production hardtail. Anyway, following some tweakery that headset ended up spare so it went into the Spitfire about a month ago. I shortened the fork at the same time to add a bit of reach too. It's far short of the Geometron reach but the head angle is now sitting at 64.1 deg in its slackest setting (the only way I've ridden it so far). This is a 150mm fork, 140mm rear 27.5 bike btw.

It seems to be better at everything like this, from woodland singletrack to rocky downhill tracks, down, along and up.

quick sizing question...i´m 183cm tall, shall i pick 502 (m) reach, or 520 (l) reach?

The reach on the 520 is spot on with a 31mm renthal stem and feels weirdly normal but is 70mm longer than my last Nicoloai! Are you anywhere near the North Lakes? You are welcome to swing a leg over mine for sizing if you like.

duir - Member

I am 182cm (6') and went for 520 longest but had to go custom through Nicolai as I didn't want the seat tube/top tube to be as high as the Mojo version. My leg is 34" and I found a 460mm seat tube to be spot on as it lowered the top tube nicely.

Seems Mojo agree, the current longest is 460 ST

http://geometron.mojo.co.uk/G16%20Geometry.html

The reach on the 520 is spot on with a 31mm renthal stem and feels weirdly normal but is 70mm longer than my last Nicoloai!

Yeah - my 26" Ion was a 440 reach with a 50 stem, now on 520 Longest with 32 and was blown away by how "normal" it all felt when I first sat on it.

M4k1 apologies, been away but as others have mentioned at 183cm I'd be going 520mm reach now as you can always bring it back with set up if too long but more difficult the other way around. That in the absence of testing for yourself as everyone has personal tastes.

The ST is lower now at 460mm as mentioned so much easier to manage.

Long term feedback - Still loving my Geometron Longest - and now it's even longer
I'm 6' 2.5" riding the Longest.

A year in and I am still loving the Geometron, I must say never had a real long lasting affair with a bike before. The grass has always been greener. it's not now. I did think I was happy with my Nicolai AM - until I rode one of these, IT FITS!

A couple of weeks ago I built up a new black frame with a -1 head cup from Works plus the longer travel rear end same as the_pilot. 5mm longer stays and a bigger shock this time with the Float compression lever for climbing.
I wouldn't say the lever is necessary but it certainly feels just a touch more direct when pedalling smooth fire roads uphill. The shock still has all the standard adjustments and range so there is nothing about the lever to not like. As long as I remember to switch climb mode off before I hit the gnar, that is.

It didn't take me long to get used to riding the Geometron on my local trails last year and, even though they are tight, tree lined, and pretty flat the Geometron handles them with ease. Including the steep climbs where it's traction is amazing. Got to say it’s the funnest bike I've ridden there and my XC FS 100m 29er has been hanging up since I first threw a leg over the Geometron last August..

So if you're thinking of it, don't hold back, I thought long and hard and for sure I made the right choice.

mudfish.
How long did it take to get the longer travel rear end from Mojo?

I have a Longest 155mm frame out of the first batch and an L G13, I'm 190cm tall. There is no reason why you have to go for the longest frame possible or run a low front end.

Does anyone in Sheffield have a Geometron?

I'd love to have a close look at one and a pedal around on it. It's 'new bike year' for me and I'm fascinated by this thing.

Picking up my 170 travel long rear ended longest on wednesday.
Should be up and running by next weekend. 😀

Green with envy Singlespeedstu!!! Look forward to seeing the pics!!

Nice one. DI'd you ever get your Fast Forward?

Fastforward should be here by the end of the month...
I've waited that long I'm kind of not bothered any more.

looking peoples thoughts I'm going to order a custom large geometron 29er should I go for 63 degree HA or 64? Will be my only bike so will want to for everything from flowy trails to uplift days. Would there be a big difference in feel between 63 and 64HA.

If it was going to be my only bike I would probably go for a G13 with 36s and an X2.

If you're set on the Geometron then I would say go for the slacker head angle. I would love to try the big 29er.

The drawings I have been send out seem to based on the G13 but with a lowered top tube and seat tube, reach is 490mm and seat tube angle is slightly steeper at 77.7 to allow 157mm rear travel. Going for a 160mm 36 and X2. Always have preferred 29ers but never tried anything as slack, but from what I can gather from this forum and reading about people putting anglesets to slacken their pole evolink 140 64.5HA I'm inclined to go for 63HA. I just don't want to end up with something that I cannt get turned.

singlespeedstu - Member
Fastforward should be here by the end of the month...
I've waited that long I'm kind of not bothered any more.

They do complement each other well.... the wait is crazy though

Here's another idea which I've been thinking about for a while. Lower c.o.g. Is better as it improves stability right? And currently limited in part by pedal strike? So shorter cranks, which appear to be accepted by those th at have tried them (including me) mean you can drop the bb without lowering the pedals. Would make no difference if you had your outside foot down, but with pedals flat you could have a 10mm lower bb if going from 175 to 165 cranks. Unfortunately I've already offset bush my bike so cannot drop mine any more....

Whichever you go for you can always stick an angleset in to change it up and down

thepodge - exactly. Slighlty off topic but ive got a Murmur on order and am going with 64.5 HA and similar geo to a L G13. I figure with a -2 degree works HS I can get a 62.5 HA which should be plenty slack for a 29er.

I like those Murmur frames but you sure you can get a -2 in there?

I'm running 65 on my 29er (headset & bushings) and it feels perfectly normal so would love to try something around 62.

Bestie13 Below 63 HA on the the 29er, as you may have gathered, will speed up the steering not slow it down, straight line stability will be even greater (tho you may not perceive it) but the added flop factor will make initiation into the turn faster. You won't regret a 63 HA I'm sure

Captaindanger, there is a limit on the 29er based on our experience whereby it becomes harder to initiate fast side to side turns as the BB drop increases, coupled with rotational intertia means you have to be more aggressive. We asked for the BB to be a bit higher on the 29, nothing to do with travel.

It is one of the reasons the 29 front with the 27.5 rear works so well. What would be nice is for FOX to make a 40 lower that is more 29 compatible. Currently there is only 3 mm of clearance...Lots of current interest in a 29 front in WCDH so it may happen.

In the meantime it is possible to run the Geometron with a 29 front with the 160mm 36, the e-bike fork adds a bit of stiffness, not possible to give it quite the feeling of the 27.5 version of the fork due to the reduced capability to tune the neg chamber. OR of course have slim clearance with the 40.

I should get the G13 this week and will be dropping the front to 62 HA so if anyone sees me out on it feel free to collar me and grab a ride. It'll be a DPS version mind...until Fox bring out the 190mm X2 anyway...

One question 490mm reach with a 77.7 SA on a Large? do you mean a medium. I'd expect the 664mm ETT version to have almost the same as the GeoMetron Large/Longest with the 77.7 SA as the slacker seat angle std bike has 510mm. M/Long would be about 490mm reach.

Hi Chainline I gave the go ahead yesterday for the 63HA and I am glad to hear that you think it should handle well and will be interested to hear how you get on with the 62HA G13. I seem to have confused myself with the sizing terms and I meant Long not Large. I had inquired with Paul at Mojo whether it would be worth having the climb switch fitted to the 222x70mm X2 shock as I have a fair lot of fire road climbs to do. He was of the opinion that the anti-squat is really well dialled and effective enough that is wouldn't be necessary. Have you any thought on this and would a larger/smaller chainring effect the anti-squat, on my current stumpjumper 29er I have a 30 chainring 42 cassette which can get a bit tight at times I am considering whether to go for an eagle set up if funds allow.

bestie, anti squat is dialled. No need for the climb switch in my opinion. Designed around 30-32 for the 29. The chainring will change that, smaller adding anti squat iirc so if you changed to a smaller front you would get better pedalling with a tradeoff of slightly more descending pedal feedback.

I got the climb switch added after taking a hammering on some very long climbs in the Alps on dual-plys. At home I only really use it for very long steady climbs and I do plenty of rides where I never touch it.

I think it also depends on your pedalling style and chainring. You can of course take the allen key out of your pocket and increase compression if you know you're gonna be pedalling for an hour and a half. Switch easier if that suits.

Chainline, from reading what Bestie has on order, Mojo will build a longer travel 29er than what's on the web site? I thought he G13 was fixed at 130mm of travel?

I went for the climb switch on my 222x70 as it'll be being dragged up some big old fire road climbs and it doesn't hinder the performance in any way.

[img][url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/342/31579038013_ecb9b97027_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/342/31579038013_ecb9b97027_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/Q7wPND ]X2 With Comp Lever.[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/stu-b/ ]multispeedstu[/url], on Flickr[/img]

Would love to try the new short travel Nicolai Saturn 11 - think it would make an ace fast trail bike once you put a dropper and wide bars on.

https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&nv=1&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=auto&sp=nmt4&tl=en&u=http://www.mtb-news.de/news/2016/12/20/nicolai-saturn-11/&usg=ALkJrhg-P27xkbEFW_h5MvyTiSsCmm14BQ

the podge, I have a -2 on my Krampus with a 44mm straight head tube.

Chainline, can you post some piccys of your chopper. Also what offset are you using on your forks?

fartymarty - the podge, I have a -2 on my Krampus with a 44mm straight head tube.

Rik - Would love to try the new short travel Nicolai Saturn 11 - think it would make an ace fast trail bike once you put a dropper and wide bars on.

Wookster, the G13 as a stock bike is fixed at 133mm but you can order custom. I've suggested changing it so it is like the G16 with say 130mm and 150mm options via shock length change, amongst a few other changes (have a look at the mtbr thread in the Niclai forum I post on (the_pilot)

The original GeoMetron 29 is available as a custom order which is effectively a 155mm travel, 29er version of the G16 with the updates or anything you like as a custom order like Paul's which just had a longer shock length to allow an X2.

I know what I would do with the G13 right now. I think an official 29/27.5 may happen too in the future, especially with a bit more work on the 29 36 fork (probably the e bike version) but for me, for now I need time with the 29 front in mine first before I decide if that works for me, I'm such a fan of the 27.5 at the moment. CP seems convinced by a 29 front in a std G16 and the current G16 doesn't need much changing to incorporate it seamlessly. Again such a beast is available as a full custom but for anyone thinking of it I suggest trying the current GeoMetron with one in and tweaked to suit before jumping in.

I'm excited about a proper kids/small persons version, writing up numbers now...

anyway

My chopper in a few guises (wheels changed) It has a -2 headset with 51 offset 40's.

In 36 form I eventually settled on 44 offset and -1 or -1.5 headset on the 2016 model with a 180mm fork (63.5 inherent with 170mm 36)

WIth a 2017 I would use a -1 I think (62.5 inherent with 170mm fork)

I pulled together an angles table a while back to hep me decide what to use with the 40 based on what I was feeling, I updated it to reflect the Mojo '17 version which is -1 deg. I should add the impact of a 29 front wheel too.
Don't shoot me if you disagree with it, let me know and I'll update it!

All figures are for a Longer/L frame size so just add or subract the requisite amount for the other frame sizes.

[img][url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/691/32402919705_109a57a9d0_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/691/32402919705_109a57a9d0_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/Rnkr8p ]GeoMetron angles[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/the_pilot/ ]Phil[/url], on Flickr[/img]

[img][url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7630/28360116346_3b007a880e_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7630/28360116346_3b007a880e_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/Kd61xd ]Untitled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/the_pilot/ ]Phil[/url], on Flickr[/img]

[img][url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8758/29338404593_7d89ca792f_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8758/29338404593_7d89ca792f_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/LGwZxX ]IMG_0390[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/the_pilot/ ]Phil[/url], on Flickr[/img]

[img][url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8688/28356677286_a54bf36f70_o.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8688/28356677286_a54bf36f70_o.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/KcMoe5 ]IMG_0061[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/the_pilot/ ]Phil[/url], on Flickr[/img]

Wow! Mind blown! I'll have a look st pink bike too! Thanks fella!! I love all the changes that are being made, the versatility is amazing!

podge, sorry I forgot I have a 1 1/8" straight on my Krampus but I think they may work with a tapered. http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/20-degree-ec44--ec44---tapered-steerer-tube-headset-1136-p.asp

chainline, that last photo is awesome. do you have it on pinkbike? if so whats your username.

On, that's good to know, not sure that existed when I got mine.

it has external cups and you need a decent steerer length.

If we're doing photos here's mine on it's first outing today.
I likes it a lot I do. 🙂

[url= https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/436/32314165672_cef254a38f_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/436/32314165672_cef254a38f_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/ReuxDs ]Looks better with some mud on it.[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/stu-b/ ]multispeedstu[/url], on Flickr

Nice! That's the 650b isn't it?

Nice job Stu, looks ace

Cheers george.
Yep Wookster it's a 650B.

Since we're sharing, here's mine before it got dirty.

[img] [/img]

Both look lush guys! I'm green with envy!! 🙂