[Closed] Anyone performed a basic service on a reverb stealth?

Only funeral services.

Sub it out, my local place charges £30 for a rebuild I think.

On the A1/A2, I'm pretty sure you have to remove the internal seal head to get the top cap off. I think you could probably just replace it afterwards without disturbing the IFP and oil levels but tbh once you're that far in, it's not much more work to check all of that too. (all you need is the £5 IFP tool, and an oil level tool which for me is 50p worth of brass tube with a syringe stuck on top).

Let's be honest, it's a Reverb so sooner or later it's going to let air past the AFP and go soggy, and it'll be useful to know how to reset it. It's not difficult at all though, just a case of following the steps. Quite a complex wee machine but the rockshox vid takes you right through it. I found it less intuitive than fork servicing.

Process is different for different models btw!

Thanks for the tips, I'll find myself a bit of thin tubing and give it a go.

[quote=stevenk4563 ]Thanks for the tips, I'll find myself a bit of thin tubing and give it a go.

reverb hose + a ziptie to set height works.

Thanks, I'll see what off cuts I have lying around. Did you manage to reuse the IFP ok? I see in the video that they just replace it.

I can't remember for sure but I think in the video they're replacing it with the updated IFP (which as far as I can tell, doesn't really improve anything).

I did all the fluids etc on mine but reused all the original seals and internals- just cleaned and relubed. I'm not going to hold that up as best practice or anything but I tend not to replace parts without an obvious reason.

I tend to get about 18 months to 2 years of trouble free use before my reverb needs attention - I'm not talking about a bit of play as the bushes wear, I don't mind that as long as it functions fine. The first time I did this I paid a local chap to just do a rebuild and oil change, but it only lasted a few rides. I now just put them in for a full on refurb at £75 and it comes back like new - they do a proper Triggers Broom job on it - I wouldn't be surprised if they don't just swap it out with a new one and chuck the old one out. It's a serviceable item with parts that are designed to wear so after a good 18 months of use it is best to do a full refurb. The seals might look undamaged and fine to the naked eye but they will have deformed and degraded. Also absolutely no point in disassembling the thing and exposing all these seals and not replacing them, it's just a false economy.

I run two reverbs which I alternate so don't lose any time on the bike. One came with the bike, I picked up the second at a decent sale price for about £130 or something.

People seem to accept spending hundreds every year or so servicing their forks and shocks, so not sure why anyone would expect not to have an ongoing service requirement and cost with a hydraulic dropper post.

Paying someone to do a fluids service or repair without doing seals doesn't usually make sense, since labour is such a big part of the job, and time without the post has an impact too (my newer Reverb is in on a warranty job, wish I'd just fixed it myself now...)

But if you can do it yourself then it's different and the argument for automatically replacing parts without specific cause isn't so strong. The full service inverval is 200 hours of riding on a reverb (not 200 hours of "riding", but actual moving time- haribo eating, bullshitting and waiting for your mates not included) so if you're going in early for a standalone issue (that's what it sounds like here) there's less reason to prematurely replace parts.

The post has no major issues, just a bit of movement and stiction, so for me the £10 service kit makes sense I think, plus I'll have learnt something.

If it fails then I'll not have lost much.

Yes it is possible and fairly easy ,the lower plate on the stealth is 2 piece with outer that is removable to allow removal of outer post over it.

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i asked this some time ago and someone posted a picture of an exploding nuclear bomb

I should of actually said,outerplate (13) pops off and over lower seal head without disturbing it .It actually unthreads from its own housing above that has a handy 7 or 8mm nut built in to it to allow plate to be undone easily.I found this weekend when I did my 30.9 post for the first time it has smaller diameter volume spacer that can't just pop over the lower seal head like my 31.6 ones did.Not a big issue as topcap was in good condition and didn't need replacing and I could still clean and re-lube all I needed to with it in situ.
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