[Closed] Anyone gone 1 x 10/ 1 x 11 and regretted it?

I run 1x9 on 2 bikes.

34 front with 34 rear on my 29er and 34 front 32 rear on 26.

Can get a bit pushy on some of the hills around here (South Downs) but not to the point of stalling.

I ride singlespeed quite a lot so I'm used to spinning out going down hill 😉 (plus I tend to try and descend on stuff that's not just a sprint).

What ratio 9 speed cassette?

What size small ring and do you use it much?

EDIT

I don't regret it but would like wider range than the current 11-36 I currently have.

I bought a bike with 1x10, when it [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/15253377@N00/13980284885/ ]wore out[/url] I changed to 2x10 - much better range and now I don't have to struggle to get up hills. I gave it a chance & it was ok, but really wasn't convinced.
I have had a quick ride on a 1x11 and the range is much better but I ain't paying those prices!

if you did decide to go onto 10sp then you would need a new rear shifter that is dyna-sys compatible (assuming you go for shimano. you'd also need a new rear mech (clutched or non-clutched)and a 10sp cassette and chain. you can get away with using your existing crankset and rings though.
merlin are selling deore clutched rear mechs for £23 at the moment. the 10 sp deore cassette is the same price. add a deore 10sp chain for £12 and a zee 10sp shifter for £25 and you could be upgraded to 10sp for less than £80!

1 x 11 superb, simple, light effective no more front mech faff. When you look at how often you actually get in top gear on say 3 x 9 or 2 x 10 you soon realize that its not on technical stuff its fire road or easy tracks. You also gain way more useful gear range. Ive just gone from 3 x 9 and Im glad I did. My 3 x 9 was nearly 5 years old so I needed to replace everything really as everything was pretty much worn out.

Wait until you wear out what you got though then swap was my view

I can honestly say I've never had a moments trouble from a front mech.

Yep. Usually on the last climb of a full day big hills ride. Not the rest of the time.

I do keep my 2*10 fs for really big days out........

Went from 2x9 to 1x11, my main worry was not being able to drop 3/4 ratios by flicking to the Granny ring, but it's not been an issue really.

I can't think of a reason to go back to 2x tbh.

Also, has anyone considered going 1 x 9 or that just ridiculous?

I run 1x8.

I had 36 with 12-23 for years. Although that caused near cardiac arrest going up the hills. When I switched to 34t & 11-30 I did what I did with the old cassette; use only a couple gears either end of the cassette. Made no difference to how far I could get up one of steepish slogs in the Quantocks.

I built my second HT as a 1x10, 32 up front and 11:36 cassette.

I no longer miss the granny ring but I do miss the 42 ring. It's reasonably hilly around here and I get fairly fed up spinning out and relying on gravity.
As things wear out I'll be investing in a 2x setup.

I ran 1x9 last summer and actually ran it again on Sunday after I broke my10 speed mech on Saturday.

A large part of the decision is what you ride and how fit you are. 36 up front is ideal

I can honestly say I've never had a moments trouble from a front mech

I like the range on my 3x9, but would love a clutch rear mech, just to totaly eliminate the odd chain drop.

36 up front is ideal

I'm going back to 36t with 12t smallest (if I can find it). Although 34x11 is a lower ratio it feels harder to turn over yet not fast enough going down the hills, if that makes any sense.

I currently ride a 3*9 with a 12-25 cassette and am pondering 1*10, just not sure if I want the big jumps in gears.

I've been running 1x9 on my 36lb FS for about 8 years.
34 front, 11-36 rear.

Reason is, my front mech stopped working a while back and i was too lazy/busy to fix it. When i didn't really miss it, i didn't bother to sort it.

about 4 times in those years i've manually pushed my chain off onto the granny ring (which is still there) because i got bored of grinding away. South Downs mainly for me, with the odd trail welsh centre thrown in.

On the downhill bits i try to ride technical trails where i wouldn't be able to spin out my gears easily anyway.

I'll be going 1 x10 soon, not for the range for gears but for the clutch mech. Be nice to have the extra, but wouldn't pay for the small difference.

1x10 for me for the last 3 years. Was hard to begin with but now I wouldn't go back. I Like the lack of clutter with no front mech and shifter also less maintenance. Don't have to push at all on trail around here south Wales.

1x11 on both bikes now, and never regretted at all. Total game changer, easy to use, and wide enough ratio.

with the 11sp just remember that the SRAM 10-42 is a much bigger range than the XTR 11-40, 11-40 is achievable on a normal 10sp setup for a lot less money too.
and mow my much overused & stolen comparison table
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I ran 1x10 a regular 11-36 with a 32t ring initially last summer and had some moments when I ran out of steam on the climbs (Isle of Man,very hilly) but since I went down to a Wolftooth 30t I've never regretted it, wouldn't go back

was on 36 x 11/36, was very hard work on some climbs...

Now on 34 x 11/42 and its perfect. Would never go back to 2x !

Never tried it but I reckon it depends where you live. In Calderdale there are plenty of very steep, very techy climbs that aren't possible without a granny unless you're a pro xc type, and even then possibly not. Other places it's probably fine.

1x11 here and would never go back to a front mech, winter rides were always a problem with it freezing up and they are just plain rubbish.

robarnold - Member
I ran 1x10 a regular 11-36 with a 32t ring initially last summer and had some moments when I ran out of steam on the climbs (Isle of Man,very hilly) but since I went down to a Wolftooth 30t I've never regretted it, wouldn't go back

I'm using 1x10 (11-40 and 30T chainring) in the same location and use that lowest gear at some time on most rides.

Nice riding on Sunday Rob, sorry (or glad?) I didn't enter - plenty of people better than me got their arses handed to them on a plate, that's for sure.

I’ve not regretted it at all. I like the simplification of my drivetrains. My 29er full suss is 1x10, with a 30t XX1 ring and a Hope T-Rex on an 11-36 cassette, and that gives me an almost perfect spread of gears for where I ride. My new hardtail is 1x9, with a 30t Race Face NW ring, Saint mech and 34t cassette, which has been ‘ok’ on the more pedally stuff, but it’s not low enough for the steeper techy climbs, so I’ve just bought some new 10 speed stuff, and another T-Rex, so that should do the job nicely.

I went from 2x9 to 1x10. With a 34T up front and 11-36 cassette it's about spot on for my local riding, at some point soon I might consider going up to a 36 at the front.

Trip to North Wales coming up though, including Snowdon, so I have a feeling I'll be regretting it then. I have a 30T ring on order!

I can accept 1x whatever will work for many people and accept it is a simpler system but can not accept all this it's a 'game changer' bollox. In the grand scheme of things it's still just changing gears with some small benifits and some small losses.

Not regretted it in the least, went 1x10 about 3 years ago, then 1x11 earlier this year. Like having the extra range 1x11 affords, rarely use either extreme now on an average ride, which is nice to know, and suggests the range is right for me/my terrain/riding style/bike etc.

can not accept all this it's a 'game changer' bollox.

All the gears you use, none of the ones you don't less faff, less moving parts, less to go wrong. For me the best bit is having a straight change between gears and not doing the drop at the front with either a massive change in cadence or speed. If we didn't start with triples and roadie cast offs having a range of gears in sequence would probably be where we would start.
Wait till it's out at X7/SLX levels

Been on a 1 x set up for ages now.

The 10 speed stuff makes live easier as does the smaller front rings. I never really had an issue with front mechs but never used the granny ring that much so didn't see the point in keeping it. The lack of front shifter also means that I can place my Reverb lever in a place where it's safer and easier to get to.

I can get up most stuff although sometimes it just becomes a case of willpower to ride up stuff. I don't miss a big ring and haven't run owt bigger than a 36 tooth ring even on DH bikes.

Not tried it then?

All the gears you use, none of the ones you don't less faff, less moving parts, less to go wrong.

I have thanks clever lad. What part of what you said above is 'a game changer'? I wouldn't class saving a bit of weight that could be saved elsewhere, removing parts that 'I' have never had trouble with and losing some gears that I do use, even if not that often a 'game changer'.

Horses for courses and it will work for some, not for others but don't try to make out it's the second coming.

I'm using 1x10 (11-40 and 30T chainring) in the same location and use that lowest gear at some time on most rides.

Nice riding on Sunday Rob, sorry (or glad?) I didn't enter - plenty of people better than me got their arses handed to them on a plate, that's for sure.

Cheers Andy, the general feedback has been very positive. Round two will be closer to home for you, based in Ramsey I think...you should definitely have a go, it's not all about winning!

It seems like the general opinion is divided, with 1×11 being closer to a 2x setup but at premium. I do still ride around calderdale and also the Peaks which see me using the 22t granny ring on every single ride. Ive read that you get used to grinding out bigger gears uphill but i think 1x9 would be a struggle!

If i added a t-rex to make my cassette 10 speed would i also need a new shifter? And would it fit on a hope freehub? Reason im considering my options is my chainrings and rear mech could do with replacing.

Moved from Glasgow to Calderdale with 1x9 on my big bike, 32 up front 11 x 34 cassette partly beacuse it was easier to set up my Reverb remote.Never had a problem in Scotand with that set up but soon changed back to a double down here.Have just gone back to 1x9 with a 30 t NW up front and 12x36 cassette and the climbing's much more manageable.

How do i use that table? Not sure what the numbers mean to be honest

robarnold - Member

Cheers Andy, the general feedback has been very positive. Round two will be closer to home for you, based in Ramsey I think...you should definitely have a go, it's not all about winning!

If I'm not away in Greece I'll deffo give it a go - no chance of me ever winning unfortunately, so a good job there's more to it than that!

Can i run an XT 10sp cassette and just add a Hope T-rex? Or will that not fit on my existing freehub?

So confusing all this new fangled stuff.

You can just remove your 17t sprocket and spacer to make room for the T. rex on the back of the cassette or remove the 15t and 17t and spacer and replace a 16t where the 15t was and put the T. rex on the back for more equally spaced gear ratios.

You can get 16t xt sprockets from rose bikes cheap enough.

I forgot to say it only works with the 11-36 xt cassette, I think.

You can just remove your 17t sprocket and spacer to make room for the T. rex on the back of the cassette or remove the 15t and 17t and spacer and replace a 16t where the 15t was and put the T. rex on the back for more equally spaced gear ratios.

You can get 16t xt sprockets from rose bikes cheap enough.

Interesting.

Is there any way to find out how much i'll be losing at either end without taking the plunge and finding i don't like it? I run an 11-34 cassette with a 22t and 36t sprockets at the front. I can probably live without as much top end speed but it's the hilly bits i'm more bothered about.

If someone said to me that running a hope 40t T rex and a 32t front chainring was like 22t and XXX gear on the 11-34 cassette i already have i could go out and try and climb some hills to put it to the test. Is there a way of working it out?

Is there any way to find out how much i'll be losing at either end without taking the plunge and finding i don't like it? I run an 11-34 cassette with a 22t and 36t sprockets at the front. I can probably live without as much top end speed but it's the hilly bits i'm more bothered about.

If someone said to me that running a hope 40t T rex and a 32t front chainring was like 22t and XXX gear on the 11-34 cassette i already have i could go out and try and climb some hills to put it to the test. Is there a way of working it out?

You divide the number of front teeth by the number of rear teeth and that gives you the gain ratio.

So 32/40=0.8 lowest gear; 32/11= 2.91 highest gear

22/30=0.73 or 22/26=0.85 so they're your closest low gears. In other words, second to lowest is a bit lower (easier), third from lowest is a big higher (harder).

The big deal about XX1 and X01 is not so much the 42t sprocket as the 10t sprocket - losing a tooth from the 11t makes almost as big a difference as adding 6 teeth to the 36t. Do both and you go from 327% to 420% of gear variation. Adding a 40t to an 11-36 only gets you 364% (this is just biggest sprocket divided by smallest sprocket, shown as a percentage).

GCSE maths I think but the problem is that unless you do this stuff for your job you forget how do to do it, even if you did know it many years ago!

[url= http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/ ]Gear ratios calculator[/url]

I used to run a 9 speed triple (11-32 cassette)and I've gone to 1 by 10 (11-36 on a NW 30t). I have lost slightly more than one gear off the bottom (no loss as it was barely possible to ride that slowly and not fall over); The three gears off the top may be an issue if I find myself riding down fireroads or along tarmac. I reckon I'll be fine though.

I reckon I'll be fine though.

Let me know how it goes.

Chip thanks for that

How about trying your 36T at front with 34T at rear & see how hard it is to climb any hills starting on some easy hills to see how you get on..
when you normally ride & use the Granny ring do you like to spin slowly up the hill or make your legs work a bit in a higher gear?

You won't regret taking the plunge it's just so easy to change into the gear on the trail you need. Just back from Cmw Carn loop. My only thought was why didn't I change to 1 x 11 sooner.

I run 36t up front it's perfect. Not found myself under geared.

Just moved over from a double. Had a 28 on previously so moving to a single 30t on-one ringmaster (which is spot on for 23 quid) hasn't been a problem. Two rides in and im a convert, may move to 32 in a few months then 34.

when you normally ride & use the Granny ring do you like to spin slowly up the hill or make your legs work a bit in a higher gear?

Im definitely a spinner. Dig in and grind it out is how i approach them. I wouldn't get halfway up some of the hills in calderdale or the peak district without a granny ring and thats a fact.

Might just buy some new chainrings and a rear mech, much cheaper than replacing the lot and more gears to choose from 😉

Pawsy_Bear - Member

You won't regret taking the plunge it's just so easy to change into the gear on the trail you need. Just back from Cmw Carn loop. My only thought was why didn't I change to 1 x 11 sooner.

How is it any easier? Its pretty easy at the moment i just push the lever and the gears change.

Been running 1x for 5 years or so........ Took some getting used to initially, but I won't ever be having a front mech again.

It depends what bike you're looking at going 1x-- on. My hardtail is 1x9 and I can climb on that all day long. My 160mm full susser is 2x10, and I wouldn't even entertain going 1x10 on that thing!

How is it any easier? Its pretty easy at the moment i just push the lever and the gears change.

The missus was a little sceptical about 1x11 but the range makes it work and we just converted her other bike to 11-40 1x10 as she likes the 1x so much.

I see what youre saying there, although if you do it well theres not much drop in cadence. I can shift down a cog at the front and up a couple at the back, all at the same time as long as i time it so that the chain isn't under too much tension. Its usually the point where i'm running out of steam but have enough left to give the cranks a good couple of turns, ready for the drop. You can plan this point on the hill depending on how steep or technical it is. You do lose a bit of speed though. Maybe having more gears is a bit lazy?

Where Abouts do you live mike? Any big hills?

Where I ride I regularly use the granny ring or next gear on my full sus, with 38/24 double and 11-36 10 speed cassette. So, using the gear calculator above, my current lowest gear ( 24/36 ) gives me 1.3 (what?) If i went to a single upfront ring of 30 and got a T. rex 40 rear, 30/40 would give me a lowest gear of 1.5. Which is the same as 24/32 , the second easiest gear I have now....or am I totally wrong?

You divide the number of front teeth by the number of rear teeth and that gives you the gain ratio.

So 32/40=0.8 lowest gear; 32/11= 2.91 highest gear

22/30=0.73 or 22/26=0.85 so they're your closest low gears. In other words, second to lowest is a bit lower (easier), third from lowest is a big higher (harder).

The big deal about XX1 and X01 is not so much the 42t sprocket as the 10t sprocket - losing a tooth from the 11t makes almost as big a difference as adding 6 teeth to the 36t. Do both and you go from 327% to 420% of gear variation. Adding a 40t to an 11-36 only gets you 364% (this is just biggest sprocket divided by smallest sprocket, shown as a percentage).

GCSE maths I think but the problem is that unless you do this stuff for your job you forget how do to do it, even if you did know it many years ago!

Not sure why i didnt see this earlier, maybe i just went "ooh maths no compute" and skimmed over it.

@Bomberman
Tasmania there are plenty of good hills here. As the 10-42 covers all bar 2 or 3 of the 2x10 setup it has the range. Fitness is helping for the 11-40 really.

I think you just confirmed what I was saying though with

as long as i time it

It just removes that part of it and with X1 out now the price is coming down.

"with X1 out now the price is coming down."

Yeah i saw that, should be good. Does it all fit on a standard sized freehub or would that need replacing?

Howsyourdad it looks as though youre doing your divisions wrong as 24/36 is 0.66 not 1.3 🙂

I'm guessing it will need the XD conversion as the 10t is smaller than a standard freehub body.

as an aside I remember a series on the bbc years ago where they were taking current products that had evolved over the years and trying to redesign them from the ground up throwing out the old standards/conventions that were not needed. It would be interesting to see if SRAM/Shimano were sent off to come up with a method of gearing a mountain bike from scratch what they would come up with?

Sheldon browns gear ratio calculator
States

24 ring - 36 sprocket - 26" wheel = 1.3 gain ratios
24 ring - 36 sprocket - 29" wheel = 1.4 gain ratios

Bomberman I think your equation for calculating gear ratios on bicycles is not correct as you do not allow for a wheel.

Like mikesmith said its just easier and allows you to keep your cadence up. Shifting is faster no pause while you change the front mech as well up or down so you can get back on the power without having to make a second shift. I also found I had more useful gear range closer together. One less thing to manage on the trail has to be more efficient and make the trail more enjoyable IMHO.

Granny gears are more of a prop than useful and how often did I use them or my top gear in 3 x 9? Not very by the time I had changed to outer then shifted up I would be looking at down shifting for next climb etc Fire roads or tarmac es but then thats not what I want to ride well or at all if I can avoid it ha ha

Why not book a demo or mates bike with 1 x 11 and try it out? That has to be the best way to decide without a massive outlay?

Bomberman I think your equation for calculating gear ratios on bicycles is not correct as you do not allow for a wheel.

It is correct from the perspective of comparing ratios on a single bike. What it doesn't do is apply it in any real world way - so if the gearing is 32/32 ie 1, the wheel will move one full rotation for each pedal revolution. In 44/11, ie 4, the wheel will done 4 full rotations for each revolution of the pedals. The distance the bike moves is dictated by wheelsize (and will be greater of course on a bigger wheel).

Where I ride I regularly use the granny ring or next gear on my full sus, with 38/24 double and 11-36 10 speed cassette. So, using the gear calculator above, my current lowest gear ( 24/36 ) gives me 1.3 (what?) If i went to a single upfront ring of 30 and got a T. rex 40 rear, 30/40 would give me a lowest gear of 1.5. Which is the same as 24/32 , the second easiest gear I have now....or am I totally wrong?

I just used the Sheldon brown online calculator and those were the numbers it gave me. I could be wrong of course. If I'm not wrong is what I said actually ... right? My current second easiest gear with a double set up would be my easiest with a 1 by 10 ..? Thanks in advance

At swinley you come out of the forest onto a fire road that is a relatively steep climb, for me anyway that takes you up to labarinth I believe.

At that point in order to make it up that slope I have to first get into my lowest gear quickly.
Then lean to the left of my fork to drop from 150 to 120, then lean to the right of my fork to stiffen it up a bit more, then lastly between my legs to engage the pro pedal.

If I do not do the above quickly and efficiently I may not make it 😀 .This is due to me being a middle aged biffer on a five, so one less knob to twiddle is a beautiful thing.

At swinley you come out of the forest onto a fire road that is a relatively steep climb, for me anyway that takes you up to labarinth I believe.

At that point in order to make it up that slope I have to first get into my lowest gear quickly.
Then lean to the left of my fork to drop from 150 to 120, then lean to the right of my fork to stiffen it up a bit more, then lastly between my legs to engage the pro pedal.

If I do not do the above quickly and efficiently I may not make it .This is due to me being a middle aged biffer on a five, so one less knob to twiddle is a beautiful thing.

I stand up 😉

Have gone 1x10 this weekend with Hope's 34t retainer ring on my old XT triple cranks and added a hope t-Rex to my 11-36 now making it 11-40. Did a three hour ride this morning with some very steep hills and coped fine. It was great not having to worry about changing on the front and now means I can run my reverb remote underneath on the left hand side which I couldnt before.

So for a smidgen under £100 I converted from a 3x10 to 1x10 and it took me around 2 hours to convert (including having to drill out a crank bolt that had rounded). Slight B tension adjust and that was it.

Really worth doing, and didnt struggle anywhere near as much as I thought. Yes you need to keep momentum on the climbs but just means a little more concentration and the odd bit of standing up.

Perfect 🙂

I stand up

I have recently given up kebabs so I too one day will be able to make such a statement. 😀

So for a smidgen under £100

Not including cassette, shifter, rear mech and chain i take it? Im going from a 9 speed so i'd need them too.

I have 1x11 on my hardtail and it's been great - I've not run out of gears, even in Calderdale. However, my next full sue bike will probably have 2x10 (at least to start with) because I've never had a problem with a well-maintained front mech and a double. It's (way!) cheaper, and as someone's said, there's that immediate couple of sprockets bail out option of dropping into the inner ring. Shimano and SRAM put a ton of work into making front shifting nearly as instant as rear shifting, so why ignore it? 🙂

Lots of nice, close ratios for decent cadence and a good couple of low gears, rather than a single 'Jesus' gear as on a 1x11 (or especially a 1x10)
Mind you, I'm not a downhill god, so I rarely spin out the top end.

34 X 11/42 10 speed here on my 26" full sus.

The main reason I did it was a desire to experiment (51%) and it looks much nicer (49%) (honest)

Sharp climbs in the Peaks are do-able with a bit of tactical swearing, and it's nice to finally use the 11t regularly.

I'm tempted to put the granny back on to use manually for end of ride fails, but am resisting.

I used strava for the first time the other week and was pretty surprised to see I was hitting 37.6mph on the roads between trails! Had no idea I was going that fast. So I would probably miss the 11t/36t combo if I went 1x10. With this thread in mind though I made a point of not using the 34t or the one down from it and still made the road climb from stagnage edge up towards burbage so I should probably try and man up a bit more often and get the legs working.