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Got this bike, came with AXS electronic gubbins. Has a mullet setup. I wanted to try it 29er, cos in mullet the BB is LOW, pedal strikes a lot. So I take off the 27.5 DT Swiss hubbed wheel, put on a Hope hubbed 29er. Shifting a no-go, jumping all over the place. Turns out T-Type chain only compatible with T-Type cassette. Ok, so the £250odd non-t-type cassette will have to go in the parts bin. Jeez.
Take the T-type cass off the DT swiss and put it on the Hope. Install the Hope and shifting still terrible. Now chain looks too long and upper jockey wheel fouling the cassette in lower gears!
I guess I've got to readjust the chain length, the B-screw and press a button somewhere on the mech to get it aligned?
Are DT and Hope hubs that different?? Does the bike's built in AI know it's now got a 29er on? I'm baffled. I prefer cables and mechanical shifting, least I understood it!
watch the installation vids, follow the procedure and in theory, you will be golden:
Every time i have installed it, it takes two or three attempts to get going, but once it is set properly, its flawless. And, nope, no idea why i can never nail if first time 😀
I am new to this too. Was it just a wheel swap or was there a ‘flip chip’ or similar involved? Just a wheel swap I would only expect trim adjustment but anything more and I’d be following that video above
Was it just a wheel swap or was there a ‘flip chip’ or similar involved? Just a wheel swap I would only expect trim adjustment but anything more and I’d be following that video above
First time (before I knew the cassette was wrong) I flipped the chip first. Time I put the correct cassette on the Hope wheel, I didn't flip (cos it's a faff), wanted to make sure it'll work first. (it was in 27.5 geo mode)
Looks like I might need to find the serial no. of the mech and then I can get the instructs from the Sram site. I'd rather have it on paper than a vid tbh. (I'm old). Plus they say you can't reuse the powerlink, so will have to get new ones of them before I shorten the chain
Assuming you didn't have to meddle with any flip chips to swap wheel sizes the cassette will be in the same location as it was before. However the cassette's location relative to the chain line might have moved a fraction. Do as suggested above and it ought to be fine.
You can keep your old cassette - I use my Transmission groupset with a Shimano Microspline cassette and matching chain, and at Ten Under the Ben at the weekend a pal smashed his wheel with a Transmission cassette and we put on a spare with a Microspline cassette and it worked fine too. You'll just need to swap chains at the same time.
Otherwise, watch the video - it's very clear and pretty straightforward.
You can keep your old cassette
Good to know... but would have to use a non-t-type chain - which is ok with the AXS mech?
If you have moved the cassette from the DT to Hope hub then there is no need to shorten the chain. Chain length is not altered by different hubs.
Chain length is not altered by different hubs.
I know this. Hence starting a thread about the weirdness of it.
they say you can't reuse the powerlink,
Sram have said that for years - there must be many many reused powerlinks out there proving it actually doesn't make your bike explode if you do.
Got this bike, came with AXS electronic gubbins. Has a mullet setup. I wanted to try it 29er, cos in mullet the BB is LOW, pedal strikes a lot. So I take off the 27.5 DT Swiss hubbed wheel, put on a Hope hubbed 29er. Shifting a no-go, jumping all over the place. Turns out T-Type chain only compatible with T-Type cassette. Ok, so the £250odd non-t-type cassette will have to go in the parts bin. Jeez.
Take the T-type cass off the DT swiss and put it on the Hope. Install the Hope and shifting still terrible. Now chain looks too long and upper jockey wheel fouling the cassette in lower gears!
I guess I've got to readjust the chain length, the B-screw and press a button somewhere on the mech to get it aligned?
Are DT and Hope hubs that different?? Does the bike's built in AI know it's now got a 29er on? I'm baffled. I prefer cables and mechanical shifting, least I understood it!
There's a very specific setup procedure, you need to loosen the axle/mech bolts one full turn, put the mech on the setup cog, set the cage in the setup position, and take up the slack by pulling the mech back, then tighten it all down, should be golden as long as the little line on the mech aligns to the frame.
It's a different setup to what you're used to, but very simple once you're aware of it
Sorry to thread hijack, has anyone had success running the t-type cassette and chain with a non t-type derailleur? I'd be interested to know how the shifting works if it's pushed up and down the cassette a bit faster than the AXS mech allows.
It's a different setup to what you're used to, but very simple once you're aware of it
Brilliant, thanks HG.
The video linked above (follow this!) is setup from scratch - seems rather bizarre to have to remove the mech from the bike and click it up and and down to get the shifting adjusted.
Powerlink is likely to be ok if reusing on same chain. Make sure to follow the procedure (don't skip any steps or do them in a different order) and it should be sorted.
they say you can't reuse the powerlink,
AIUI KMC have the patent for re-usable links, but the SRAM/Shimano ones are functionally identical they just can't be marketed as such.
The only ones I've ever had fail were fakes.
Ask any chain-waxers about re-using quick links and they’ll say it’s fine even if manufacturers say not. Personally I find after about 5-6 uses the retaining ‘click’ starts to feel a bit baggy which I take as a sign to replace.
It's a different setup to what you're used to, but very simple once you're aware of it
Brilliant, thanks HG.
The video linked above (follow this!) is setup from scratch - seems rather bizarre to have to remove the mech from the bike and click it up and and down to get the shifting adjusted.
Yeah, it's just the part above you need - I had the loose chain thing recently after a few rides, mainly I think because the mech bolt wasn't torqued to spec, so the mech moved out of alignment, but a very quick fix
I just thought these (actually Powerlock) link things might be a different, more sensitive version, electro-specific, AI bundled! than the ones we've all used since the 80s! Seeing as the warnings in the vid were so prominent... I guess not then. Ordered some spares anyway. 🙂 thanks folks
Make sure to follow the procedure (don't skip any steps or do them in a different order)
So I have to remove everything from the bike and start again?! 🤔 😆 😆
Get the chain length right (the app will tell you) and the b-tension right (see SRAM video) then you just need to trim the shifting (either use the app or hold down the the little button on the shifter while clicking the shift button.
Don't get too stressed about chain and cassette compatibility - as others have said any combination of 12 speed parts should function (though I tend to try and match the chain and cassette brand. I have run flat top chains on Shimano chainrings (road and MTB) and t-type mech with both Shimano and non-t-type SRAM. No exploded bikes (attributable to gear setup!).
they say you can't reuse the powerlink,
AIUI KMC have the patent for re-usable links, but the SRAM/Shimano ones are functionally identical they just can't be marketed as such.
I've heard a few people suggest similar, but I’ve not found any back up for that.
OP - you did disengage the cage lock after fitting? Forgetting to do that can make the chain appear too long in the small (size) gears.
Personally I find after about 5-6 uses the retaining ‘click’ starts to feel a bit baggy which I take as a sign to replace.
This - they wear. I've also seen the pins become "baggy" leading to failure which is probably caused by the significant force required to open them - the reusable ones are usually openable by hand (from memory).
Don't get too stressed about chain and cassette compatibility
This is quite major - would mean I could swap wheel sizes without having to swap the cassette over. 👍 Gotta get the energy up to give it all another try now 🙂
Sorry to thread hijack, has anyone had success running the t-type cassette and chain with a non t-type derailleur? I'd be interested to know how the shifting works if it's pushed up and down the cassette a bit faster than the AXS mech allows.
It's a narrow-wide cassette, so the chain will still only want to move at specific points
Sooo.... I think I've found the issue with my Axs... No idea why it works ok on one setup but not the other.
But this mech cage is surely bent?
Not completely surprising what with the size of this unit!
or, maybe it's not bent.
Huh!