anyone else always have a problem with presta valves?

After a recent incident with bent/broken presta cores I now carry a presta/schrader adapter with me at all times. Much sturdier connection and no chance of damaged cores.

I've said it before, but they are a stupid idea on a mountain bike, especially as we all use wide rims. Fortunately Joe's make a tubeless Schrader valve so easy to leave the hell hole that is Presta behind.

Plus you don't need that stupid set of pliers in your tool kit to open the valve when its frozen with ice, and slush

biggest problem i have with presta is the shiny chromed mavic tubeless valves, absolutely nothing for pump head to grip onto, 2 pumps and it blown off, that and continental road inner tubes sometimes have/dont have removable cores.... bloody useful to be able to inject an touch of sealant into a tube for fix slow leaks.

Its well known that Presta translates to "Little Valves of Hate" in English!

+1 for Joe's schraeder valves. Means you get a good flow when seating tyres and plenty of room to pour a cup of jizz in.

My biggest issue with Presta is the will it/won't it lottery of pumping up and seeing if the pump or valve seal gives up first before any air goes in. Yes, I do exercise it first.

I assumed the problems I had with bending Presta valve cores were due to incompetence, but I also find Schrader valves easier to use with my compressor. The deciding event was a series of punctures caused by the tube slipping round the rim and tearing the tube at the base of the valve (I know, tubeless would avoid that) - we destroyed 4 Presta valved tubes in one ride, and I drilled out the holes and used Schrader after that.

Lezyne pumps seem to have a habit of this.

It hasn't happened to me for a while:

Tighten the valve core with a mini-spanner
Dab of grease inside the pump head/chuck/adaptor
Use the little bleed valve before you remove the pump
Put the valve in the 1200 position when inflating so the pump head is in line (ie not hanging off to the side, bending the valve).
I try to always use talcum powder when seating tyres and tubes aswell.

I assumed the problems I had with bending Presta valve cores were due to incompetence

Correct. Some of you just shouldn't be let out alone.

Bent one once. Made a note not to do that again. Work fine for me.

They are shit weak things and very easy to break or bend. Much prefer Schrader valves. Just more robust overall.

Never had an issue, my Topeak pump works just fine and never pops off or bends the valve

I think every single one of my presta valves is bent but they still work. It's not hard to bend them back again.

Presta experts, share your technique.  I know I'm a cack handed gorilla, but I bend them all the time.  My bendy lever track pump seems particularly prone to bending the flimsy stem, no matter how careful I try to be. Yeah, yeah I know I'm not fit to call myself a cyclist and I am suitably ashamed.

Have you tried it without a blindfold and after taking off the boxing gloves?

^^^ Ta!! I'll try that 😂

@scotroutes

Correct. Some of you just shouldn’t be let out alone.

Absolutely.
Everyone I've watched break a presta seems to approach the bike like they'd approach a punch bag. All sweaty and/or angry, looking for a fight.

Only one of mine I can recall breaking was one on a tubeless pair of wheels that'd been left in the attic for several years and had seized. The shaft snapped when I tried to unscrew it.

And yes, I very much ride in all sorts of weather.

Have you tried it without a blindfold and after taking off the boxing gloves?

Ouch! 😂

I don't normally have any problems but they are a poor design for MTB use really. Fiddly little threaded screw that's prone to gumming up with sealant/other grot. I can see how easy it would be in a moment of cold and slippery handed clumsiness to bend or snap one.

Mavic used to provide a Schrader end/adapter in the packet that screwed into their UST valves. Left them fitted on my valves which overcame the issue someone mentioned above with the polished and smooth valve stems.

My dad used to say that Presta is for engineers and Schrader for mechanics.

Everyone I’ve watched break a presta seems to approach the bike like they’d approach a punch bag. All sweaty and/or angry, looking for a fight.

I was going to say "you need the hands of a lover, not a fighter". I guess a few of you have similar problems pleasuring a woman.

My dad used to say that Presta is for engineers and Schrader for mechanics.

Presta is for bikes, Schrader is for tractors.

Joe’s make a tubeless Schrader valve

This I did not know. Very tempted to purchase!

I don't really have an issue with presta but would the presta fans tell in what way it's better than shraeder.

There are two supposed advantages to Presta, although they might not be a advantages at all for MTBers.
1) Easier to get your tyres up to high pressures with Presta - not so important if you run low pressure tyres
2) They're narrower, so need a smaller hole in the rim - not so important if you have wide rims

I like them, but I think that's because I've been using them for decades

Presta experts, share your technique

Yes... simply unscrew the little nut thing, put the pump on, pump up, take the pump off, and then screw the little nut bit down again finger tight 😉

I bend them all the time.

I think I bent one once on my Raleigh Winner aged approximately 15.
Never bent one this side of the mid 1980's

Valve debates aside the problem you have is as mentioned the pump. That screw head design is a royal pain. Buy a £20 Joe blow and all will be well.

The only problem I have is that the Jo blow pump blows off at about 80 psi with valves with smooth outers. A little annoying but I just hold it on for the last bit.

Easier to get your tyres up to high pressures with Presta – not so important if you run low pressure tyres

How exactly? Schrader valves are Rae rated for high pressure. Used in industry.

Presta have zero advantage for bike except those with very narrow rims. Those that have never had problems have clearly never used a
cheap mini pump in winter with cold hands.

I stand by the presta valves are shit people. They should only be used were there is no alternative.

I don’t know how you cack-handed idiots manage to have so much trouble with Presta but

Easier to get your tyres up to high pressures with Presta – not so important if you run low pressure tyres

Makes me wonder why I have Schrader valves on my shock, forks and dropper at pressures from 70 to 250psi?

I use Schraeder valves except a couple of bikes with tubes. Never had a problem with Presta apart from being prone to blocking with sealant when used for tubeless. I really don't know how people bend them - obviously, if you're using a mini-pump, you must hold the valve end of the pump to avoid pushing and pulling on the valve stem, but that should be common-sense. If you're regularly bending the stems, you're being cack-handed.

I admit to being cackhanded. Therefore schrader valves are better for cackhanded
people. Out and about, at night, in the cold and rain, covered in mud. I don’t want to be delicate and have to unscrew a tiny nut and hold the pump in a specific way. That’s a design flaw.

I've had a few Presta valves with slightly bent stems from using a mini pump without a hose. Since changing to mini pumps with hoses I've not damaged any valves. I've also never damaged a Presta valve with a track pump.

Schrader valves seem more durable/less susceptable to damage and they can take very high pressure so I't be nice if they were more popular, but Presta are ok if you treat them with care.

. Buy a £20 Joe blow and all will be well.

Buy a Hirame pump head and all will be well.

Only issue I've ever had is them gumming up with sealant over time and restricting airflow. Don't think I've ever bent one.

I've used Presta valves for 45 years with few problems </humblebrag>
The only problem has been that some Presta pumpheads just aren't compatible.
If you find this out too late then try screwing the nut-thingy in a few turns
A technique that helps is to wrap your fingers and thumb around the pumphead and the tyre to make the interface more stable and less prone to blowing-off the valve
Finally, ignore the friendly encouragement from your freezing mates and don't rush 🙂

I like presta simply because it has a locking to stop the valve being pushed into the wheel when I'm pushing on the pump. Not an issue with tubeless. I'm sure I've broken one once.
I just wish they would choose one and stick with it......

A technique that helps is to wrap your fingers and thumb around the pumphead and the tyre to make the interface more stable and less prone to blowing-off the valve

If you need to develop technique for blowing air in to a rim then that proves they’re a bit shit really.

They are a shitty hangover from skinny rims and road bike shaped MTBs and should be duly cast into the sea. Go on, get in the ****ing sea, you stupid, fiddly little gits. If Shrader valves are good enough for shocks, forks and MX bikes then they're good enough for modern, wider rimmed MTBs. All our wheels have the valve holes drilled out to take Shraders.

If you need to develop technique for blowing air in to a rim then that proves they’re a bit shit really.

This, times a squillion².

Virtual hug for you kayla 1

Yep I bend every single one of then sooner or later. No ideas how either. I like them though because I always lose valve caps! Also more aero 🤔

How exactly?

Um ... we're getting well away from my areas of expertise here. It's more "stuff I've read on the internet".
As I understand it, it's something to do with Schraders having a mechanical valves while Prestas use pressure, which makes it easier to pump when you are getting up to high pressures ... or something.

Hang on ...

Right, I've just had a quick look. According to cycling news:

Presta valves also perform better over time compared to Schrader valves, in that they hold air more effectively and don’t degrade as quickly. They can also hold higher pressures, which makes them a must for track cycling where tyre pressures typically exceed 120psi.
https://www.cyclingnews.com/features/schrader-vs-presta/

However, their conclusion to 'which valve do I need?' is: Check which valves you currently have on your bike, and buy the same one

They can also hold higher pressures, which makes them a must for track cycling where tyre pressures typically exceed 120psi.

That's balls though, isnt it? Rear shocks can take 250psi or more and they take much more of a hammering than track tyres. (That's not directed at you, it's directed at that nonsense spouted on Cycling News.) I dunno. Meh. I'm arguing on STW, do I win £5?

I've never bent one and never had a core unscrew. Do I get a Presta Valve badge to sew on my jersey?

I have had one which my pumps wouldn't screw onto. Seemed to be a malformed thread.

Sods law i read this thread yesterday and i thought ive never snapped a presta valve and i have 5 bikes fitted with them and have been using them for 30+ years

Went to pump up my road bike tyre today and somehow managed to snap the whole tubeless valve about 20mm up from the lock ring, on the bright side the actual presta valve is intact!

New tubeless valves ordered from Wiggle on my +account

.They can also hold higher pressures, which makes them a must for track cycling where tyre pressures typically exceed 120psi

Schrader will take 120psi, 9 bar is high-end for a truck, 130.5psi. 8 bar is a good average, 116psi. Haven't seen a truck with Presta valves yet
Presta means "fast" which is why you need them on the track. A track rim with an 80mm Schrader valve might have an imbalance 🙂

I moved to presta when I had velocity deep v 90s rims

There were no 75-90mm schareders availible and no. Valve extensions availible.

Then when xc racing I used c02 cans and at the time there were no Schrader adaptors for those.

Just standardised with it on all my bikes due to there being literally no downside to doing so and ensured I didn't have to fanny around with my pump converting it in the dark and cold .....I also mitigated against cheap shit pumps by not buying a cheap shit pumps.

I like presta simply because it has a locking to stop the valve being pushed into the wheel when I’m pushing on the pump

You can get schraeder valves with lock rings as well, they are less common but definitely handy (as long as you don't use them as a fixture to swing your pump off of).

As I said before, Schraeder allow higher flow (never had an issue seating tyres even on my basket case 729 with the bent lip) and don't clog as easily.

I don't buy the less permeable argument either. Shocks, forks, gas rams and air cylinders all have schraeder cores. I have a modified air rifle with an 800psi airsoft tank that hasn't dropped pressure since it was last used a few years ago.

That test (if there was an actual test and not just uninformed "common knowledge" nonsense) was probably carried out comparing decent presta tubes vs whatever cheap crap schraeder tube was lying about.

Shocks, forks, gas rams and air cylinders all have schraeder cores.

They are used in a lot of applications. For high-pressure critical applications, much higher quality cores are used. Those aren't necessary for tyres running at 30 psi.

So if I'm running tubeless with sealant and I put schrader converters onto my prestas I could leave them on and use my JoeBlow pump with dual inflation head. No need to take them off other than any sealant maintenance? Is there a downside to that?

Edit: running at less than 30 psi

You want a push and lock pump. Any hand pump, if you are ham fisted, get one with a mini hose, it removes stress on the valve.

They are used in a lot of applications. For high-pressure critical applications, much higher quality cores are used. Those aren’t necessary for tyres running at 30 psi.

True but their quality is determined by their ability to hold pressure. Why would the two be any different assuming the valve seat is clean and isn't distorted from over tightening? The design principle is essentially the same, it's a brass valve held on its seat by the pressure behind it any additional tightening force (in the case of Presta) is hardening the valve face onto its seat which, over time, is actually more likely to make it leak.

That aside, there are probably more factors that would cause a leak before the valve can be blamed.