[Closed] Always Coppaslip for Ti?

Yes. I do.

Ace. thanks

grease here, coppaslip is more anti-seize no?

I doubt it will matter but no doubt someone will have a strong opinion.

Nickel-based anti-seize if you happen to have any, Copaslip if experience dictates ^^

I think I always use grease rather than coppaslip but it may depend on what is nearest at the time.  Plus I only have one Ti frame and I have not as yet removed the cups so I'm writing with a grand total of zero experience

As above. My 456ti evo came with a greased OO headset, was ok for a couple of years. Changed to CK with copperslip been perfect for a long while

I am no engineer but I believe Copperslip is required as just grease may not be enough to prevent the bimetallic galvanic corrosion that would occur between titanium and an aluminium cup. The aluminium unit in this case being the one susceptible to corrode, removing threaded BB's or cups after a long period of time could be an issue. I've always used a Park Tools anti seize specifically formulated for Ti frame prep (essentially a fancy copper-slip), and had no issues. An engineer will be along in a minute to call baloney.

Any metal to metal interface requires a lubricant. If you are going to remove it often then grease. If its going to stay in a long time the n coppaslip ( or fancy ti compounds if you want) If you want a semi permanent bond then bearing fit or loctite

No dry insertions please 😉

Endoverend the op is asking about a different type of headset arrangement, ti/steel.

I've seen lots of ti/aluminium interfaces with grease without problem.

TJ press fit arrangements are fine without lubricant and surely even more when the metals don't corrode.

No they are not all . EVERY metal to metal interface must have either lube or loctite. Dry metal to metal contact will ALWAYS cause issues over time.

Check some engineering stuff on it. Even square taper cranks MUST be greased despite what a lot of folk who should know better say.

A very experienced Cytec instructor told us:

If it moves, grease it. If it doesn't anti-seize

Also worth noting, he said don't use too much, especially in a headset. It can act like a hydraulic fluid with nowhere to go and flare the headtube. A very slight smear is enough.

Ahhh. Drop in bearing in a Ti frame....that's quite unusual isn't it? Rather than press in cups. What frame is it?
Google Bimettalic Corroison people, its a real thing. Not occurring between similar metals but between different metals on the anode/ cathode scale- Titanium is known to be reactive.
Of course it probably won't make any difference but sometimes it's nice to do the right thing.

Double ahhhaaaa drop in headset......

Still. A smear certainly won't hurt

v sorry...triple 'ah'...because i hadnt realised it already has the aluminium cios pressed in, so its steel into Al. My ti is a red herring. thanks all for your help.

Ian

Geniunely interested in the right answer to this as I've always been told copper slip with Ti, and heard this said by framebuilders. Googling reveals that bi-metallic galvanic corrosion occurs when an electrolyte is present, does the minute electrical energy of the materials have enough for this to occur or does a current have to be present? Or maybe more important for Ti when in the presence of an electrolytic fluid such as salt water?
Or is it just recommended to prevent galling?

Effectively the difference in materials induces a potential difference when in presence of an electrolyte, yes. One material becomes the cathode and the other an anode, if you have a spare few hours go read DNVGL-RP-B401 which details how subsea structures are protected from corrosion through the use of sacrificial anodes.

What I'm not certain on, is exactly how copper slip provides the protection for this on a Ti frame, as effectively to stop the corrosion you would be required to break the electrical continuity between the two materials. I suspect neither grease or copper slip would achieve this, but may stop the electrolyte(or water) from entering the joint between the two materials through capillary action which effectively stops the chance of corrosion at the joint.

I suspect, as mentioned above; galling is the main concern as the forces induced in the small BB threads are high and similar at the headset interface.. in which case any fluid that reduces the make-up friction should be suitable.

Interesting TJ, what time periods are you talking about? I'm sure you are technically right, but easily pulling original cranks off 20 year old bikes suggests the time period may be a relevant factor in your advice.

Any links would be helpful as always.

I just use grease personally.

Well I did a tiny piece of research on fitting traditional press/interference-fit headsets, eg

There is no consensus, even among manufacturers, as to whether grease should be needed or not. Sheldon doesn't mention it.

So I think I will stick to my LBS/machining-based experience: it just doesnt matter and therefore grease is not needed.

There is no consensus, even among manufacturers, as to whether grease should be needed or not. Sheldon doesn’t mention it.

That's my take on it, though I have Coppaslip at home and it's needed so rarely and lasts so long I reckon there's no harm in applying a little - just in case 😁