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Will shortly be replacing my 2013 Soul, one of the last 26'ers. Looking for something similarly comfy for longer days, adventuring, muddy manky night rides, some light bike packing. I have a FS for trail centres and big days.
Wanting something a bit longer than the old Soul, as since getting a modern geo Anthem the Soul feels a bit short and twitchy, even after tweaking bars and stem.
Currently looking at a Bird Zero TR, though hanging off for a few weeks to see what comes of the new edition Soul.
Alloy with boost though - how stiff and uncomfy will it feel compared to steel ?
Others that I may have overlooked ? Needs to be 27.5 and not convinced about Plus in the mud and on tight slow forest stuff, having demo'd a Tarn 20 the other week.
Will shortly be replacing my 2103
Jesus, the bike companies are bringing next years stuff out earlier and earlier...
cheers nobeer, edited 🙂
Alloy with boost though - how stiff and uncomfy will it feel compared to steel?
With modern forks, bigger wheels and bigger volume tyres, there will be no difference.
Although TBH I'd go for a 29er if a hardtail, especially one where you want to chew up the miles.
Steel.
TBH I'd go for a 29er if a hardtail,
+1
thanks for info so far. It's definite 27.5 for me, my short legs prefer them, and for local night rides on tight stuff I like the feel.
Shame it needs boost.
I really like my On One Ti456 for the stuff we ride around here whether that be Drumlanrig or up over the Lowthers.
vince - doesn't 'need' to be boost, but most new options seem that way...
I'm more trying to assess whether the added stiffness of Boost, plus alloy frame, will feel a lot harsher on a new 27.5 compared to my steel Soul 26er. My Anthem is Boost, with carbon rims and is stiffer than a stiff thing, but the suspension keeps it very comfy.
What about the rumoured new Soul?
^^^^^^
🙂hanging off for a few weeks to see what comes of the new edition Soul.
vmgscot is that one of the 650b 456? I've been wondering what I'll eventually replace my 1st generation ti 456 with. It's hard to see past the price of the new ones.
Gah. I must read stuff [i]first[/i]... 😆
^^^^ I can believe that, but I am firmly in the 27.5, non-plus camp 🙂
EDIT - Yep .. 🙂
^^^^ I can believe that, but I am firmly in the 27.5, non-plus camp
Normal Shan then. 😀
RD - I did have a look at those. I'd prefer an XT groupset to Sram though... and the tyres are a bit plus !
I have gone from Sanderson, the most sproingy steel bike I know, to Marin Nail Trail alloy in 27.5.
As ever, the tyres, wheels, seatpost, saddle etc make more difference than material.
I do miss the Sanderson, but the ride of the Marin is more balanced, faster and not yet had any uncomfy days.
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cheers matt, good to know.
New Bfe or Switchback?
iainc - Member
RD - I did have a look at those. I'd prefer an XT groupset to Sram though... and the tyres are a bit plus !
not if you usually ride a fat bike, it'll fit 29" anyway. they are way looooooong though
stevenmenmuir - unfortunately not a Ti45650b but one of the VanNic built Ti456.
I also had a Gen1 but it broke at the brake mount (like a few did). I also don't see me replacing this Ti456 until I can't get 26r bits any longer - it's a really nice ride for my local stuff.
I'm the same, it'll have to be pulled from my cold dead hands, as long as I have parts for it.
I think you are totally over thinking the stiffness thing, I'd be surprised in a blind test if you could tell the difference between an alloy and steel frame, once you've stuck a 2.3" tyre on it and some 120 mm shocks. Biggest issue on comfort will be the seatpost diameter.
dragon - that is very much what I am hoping for ! The Bird is likely a good bit cheaper than the Soul will be, for same spec
iainc - Member
RD - I did have a look at those. I'd prefer an XT groupset to Sram though...
Yep me too. But not anymore. Current XT is weak IME compared to SRAM. The cassette alone is medieval.
I think you are totally over thinking the stiffness thing, I'd be surprised in a blind test if you could tell the difference between an alloy and steel frame, once you've stuck a 2.3" tyre on it and some 120 mm shocks. Biggest issue on comfort will be the seatpost diameter.
That's true enough for vertical flex and seated comfort. Position, seat post size / extension and tyres seem to make most difference there. But out of the saddle with the bike leaned over,impacts that come off-center, any hauling on the bars vs the pedals etc, that's where you feel a frame twist and flex, or not. Some of that flex is a good thing and I'd say it's most of what people call the steel ride feel thing.
There's alu frames out there that feel pretty close to / the same as some of the less whippy steel bikes ime. Just look for alu frames that don't use big tube sections or ott shaped thick-wall tubes.
There's alu frames out there that feel pretty close to / the same as some of the less whippy steel bikes ime. Just look for alu frames that don't use big tube sections or ott shaped thick-wall tubes.
Jameso - any suggestions ? (even Pinnacle ones 🙂 ) The ideal bike would be 27.5, modernish geo, but not huge long like the Whyte, light and comfy, as much fun on the ups as the downs, 120 ish fork, dropper, xt group, under £2.5k bought as a full bike.
Alloy vs steel won't make a difference, and boost isn't actually stiffer*.
(*well it kind of depends really on specific frame design of course, - but a wider hub doesn't make the frame stiffer, and won't make the wheel stiffer vertically - although the wheel will in any case be a stiff thing vertically)
Alloy for me one of these:
[url= https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kinesis-Phase-MTB-Aluminium-Boost-frame-Small-Medium-or-Large/263287450448?hash=item3d4d27ab50:m:mLfqUUwQ6t1rp9DadHcVX8g ]Kinesis Phase 5 £250[/url]
EDIT: I have the MK1 and love it
That Stanton looks pretty ideal....
I have a Stanton Slackline too and it looks lovely in the flesh.
The ideal bike would be 27.5, modernish geo, but not huge long like the Whyte, light and comfy, as much fun on the ups as the downs, 120 ish fork, dropper, xt group, under £2.5k bought as a full bike.
This year I built a new Commencal META HT for £1,500 with a full XT 11-speed group, Easton cockpit / carbon bars, Yaris, decent tubeless wheels, dropper etc...for under £1,500.You shouldn't need to spend what is the price of a carbon YT on a HT unless it's Ti.
The ideal bike would be 27.5, modernish geo, but not huge long like the Whyte, light and comfy, as much fun on the ups as the downs, 120 ish fork, dropper, xt group, under £2.5k bought as a full bike.
Under £1k gets you that Marin I have from Rutland with Yari, wideish light wheels and SLX, leaving £1500 for an xt mech+shifter, carbon bar and better tyres. Should be doable. 😉
One of the nice things about steel is the way that this skinnier tubes look, I think they look ace
Both my MTBs are steel, but both 29er
benp1 - Member
One of the nice things about steel is the way that this skinnier tubes look, I think they look aceBoth my MTBs are steel, but both 29er
Same here. Plus a steel fat bike too.
Lots to think about, cheers. Heart says steel and wait for the new Soul of stretch to a Slackline...
Go with your heart. It's a toy. If it doesn't make you feel happy you won't enjoy it as much
Well I have to say this new Soul is much talked of....... will it appear this year I wonder.
Rik had the Stanton frames in down at Drumlanrig, Iain if you wanted a fondle.
This year I built a new Commencal META HT for £1,500 with a full XT 11-speed group, Easton cockpit / carbon bars, Yaris, decent tubeless wheels, dropper etc...for under £1,500.You shouldn't need to spend what is the price of a carbon YT on a HT unless it's Ti.
You know you could just get a carbon HT, if you're keen on 650B there are some pretty amazing deals about. Might be "an XC bike" but if you can put a dropper on and it has reasonable geometry/wide bars/some steerer showing it'll do the job and probably be a fair whack lighter.
I went from an old soul and purchased an alu non boost Forme Ripley when the were going cheap from start fitness. I was supposed to be a stop gap whilst I sorted something more fancy. But I love it, and funds for a new MTB have become funds for a new road bike. I've always ridden steel hardtails, orange clockwork, p7, and Prince Albert's etc and was really quite surprised at how little I noticed the change of frame material. As previously noted, I think the contact points make more difference.
Re material - I snapped three alloy frames at the weld from just riding them. My steel Cotic has been welted side on by a car and didn't even flinch.
Jameso - any suggestions ? (even Pinnacle ones ) The ideal bike would be 27.5, modernish geo, but not huge long like the Whyte, light and comfy, as much fun on the ups as the downs, 120 ish fork, dropper, xt group, under £2.5k bought as a full bike.
Well the 2018 Iroko 2 fits that bill but is lower-specced than you're after, it's a £1400 bike. It's no girder to ride, just confidently accurate. 27.2 post or remove the shim and fit a dropper. Like the Arkose I still have steel bike experience as reference points and we don't want to get onto an overly-rigid alternative in Al.
Available as a 2017 frameset, same spec, same 66 static HA 120mm fork geo etc for a good price. We buy them in as warranty support and don't use many at all so they get sold off each year.
If you wanted steel the Stanton does look good. I've lost my steel lust for MTBs like this these days tbh, with big tyres, tiny stems and wide bars and the forks, bolt-thrus etc I'd take the lighter Al alternative happily. Hardtails like that are like my old Chameleon, Al works so well. For a rigid 29er or an all-roader it could be different. And I totally get the love of skinny steel frames for any bike : )
Re material - I snapped three alloy frames at the weld from just riding them. My steel Cotic has been welted side on by a car and didn't even flinch.
I've snapped 1 (of about 10 that I've owned) alloy frame. One is still going strong in my ownership after 17 years.
All but one of the steel frames I've owned since age 17 have snapped (sometimes only minor bits like a brake boss). They've all lasted a reasonable time prior to breaking (and actually one of the ones I'm counting as breaking actually cracked a month after I sold it to a mate, the crack was probably already there just unknown though!)
The on-one Ti456 I owned became an on-two within 3 months of purchase (new).
Material really has very little to do with it.
looks like Alloy becoming more of an option. Jameso, that Iroko 2 looks really, really interesting. What dia post dose it take ?
EDIT - I'll not be lazy and will look on the Evans site later, sorry 🙂
What dia post dose it take ?EDIT - I'll not be lazy and will look on the Evans site later, sorry
No need, 27.2 post with the shim, or remove the shim and fit a 31.6 dropper.
cheers Jameso, top man 🙂
Btw iain, I sometimes ride out with the Glasgow club(weather dependent) I was there this Wednesday for the 7pm ride. You are more than welcome to have a spin/squelch round Mugdock on my Slackline nextgen.
loving my new sherpa, my first 29er..
[img] https://1drv.ms/i/s!Akc72AfBa1rXgQSTYu12P9aXLJ6S [/img]
dropbox link fail!
dumbbot - very kind, thanks
The button has been pressed...
Bird Zero TR 🙂
I was going to suggest an Iroko
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It was close TBH, but I’m a fussy old bugger and wanted to pick and mix on the spec, and the Bird bike builder is a nice tool for that....
I really like the look of the Iroko,Jameso how would you rate the new Ramin? Looks just like a 29er version of the Iroko.
I think the Iroko is a good value sorted deal, if you like Sram kit. Unfortunately I am died in the wool Shimano, so a step too far for an old bugger like me 😀
You bought a bike before I'd got around to replying to your Soul 26 vs Zero AM question! 😉
What I've found is that the Zero AM is better at going up, much better at going down fast, similar at going along, better at fast corners and only really is worse when it's slow and tight where the old Soul's shorter wheelbase and much higher bottom bracket won out (but if it's slow, tight AND steep then the Zero wins again).
Jameso how would you rate the new Ramin? Looks just like a 29er version of the Iroko.
Pretty much is, the Iroko is a shade longer for a ~10mm shorter stem and a little slacker-feeling, but there's not a lot in it. One thing I forgot to mention is the 2018 Ramin and Iroko frames use a CS-BB plate to be 2.6 compatible, that's the only change since 2017, so the Ramin will also take 27+ w/o issues.
Ianic, Bird's a good call, to be fair ; )
chief - usefully reassuring, thanks 🙂





