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Took the rear wheel off to zix a puncture. Never done this before with a hub gear. Didn't think about what gear I had the shifter in, don't know if it matters? Took off the lockring with the yellow dots and the bit with the red dots that the cable attached to. As I was fiddling with these (getting them back on) the hub sounded/felt like it was shifting gear. Could it have? If I just attach the cable back with the shifter left as it was will it all be ok or have I just screwed things up by changing gear without moving the shifter?
Change back to 1 at the lever end, the hub no longer has cable tension so has effectively done the same thing.
edit: not sure why the lockring came off to fix a puncture though - line the dots up and twist to get that back together, but I think you know that bit?
I don't know much as I have never had to mess with mine in the years I have had it but I believe that you put it into 4th gear the yellow dots should line up.
Yes, once back together the yellow marks should line up in 4th
[s]Thanks both but 1st gear or 4th gear, that is the question :)[/s]
Edit: 4th it is, thanks. Oh and I undid the lockring cos I am a numpty 🙂
haha, sorry.
1st for when you are putting everything together, then change to 4th to check its all right.
it's actually easier to do than to explain, as I hope you are about to discover.
Cheers, dinner now and then time to get hands dirty 🙂
Blimey that was a faff but I was not beaten! Hopefully don't have to do that again anytime soon, but at least I know what I'm doing now. Thanks folks
I always find the bottom marker window is more accurate than the top one.
Next time, don't touch the lock rings!
Operate the shifter to release some cable slack (the hub will take up the slack)
Then pull the outer cable out of the last guide on the frame, unseat the inner from the hub mechanism, the nut on the end of the inner should then release easily.
If you can't pull the outer from the last cable guide, rotate the shifting ring against the spring tension to release the inner cable and nut.
Blimey that was a faff
Wait till you want to change a sprocket 🙂
Pretty much as Spooky says.
There's a handy tip to make it easier though, and you'll be able to remove your wheel just as fast as fumbling with a derailleur. There's a tiny hole in the bit where the cable clamp goes. If you carry a piece of spoke cut down to about 3 - 4", you'll find it fits perfectly in the hole, and then you simply lever the works around and the cable comes out easily.
Flip the bike upside down and take a look and you'll see what I mean.
(My bit of spoke is cut to 101mm, so it also serves as a measure in case I need to reposition the cable clamp - that is the exact measurement of how much free cable there should be.)
I'm liking the spoke measure idea.
I can only imagine they got the tolerances wrong resulting in 101mm, that or they decided people would set up more accurately by adding the 1mm?
The cheapo tesco/aldi muti tool has an allen key that fits in the small hole perfectly.
Never had to bother with the correct length lark.
Saccades - Member
...Never had to bother with the correct length lark.
To be fair, you really only have to get it close enough and then use your adjusters.
It's just that I'm a bit fussy like that. And it's nice to do the job as per spec and it then just works straight off. 🙂