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Do the flanges actually do anything? The bearings seat in the hub rather than against the flanges I think. Can I just get a flange-less 10mm axle?
Is the flange just there so I can drift the bearings out easily? I reckon so. Anyone else got an opinion?
No one can answer this?
All axles for cartidge bearing hubs I've seen have either flanges like that or a stepped profile (a la hope) to prevent axle migration under sideloading.
Most replacement axles tend to be for cup n cone hubs, as the cones wear out.
So if you can't bodge something with the threads on that axle, you're probably scuppered.
That or you'll be forced into using a QR and a tug like everyone else.
That or you're in the realms of bodging or having something specific machined up yourself. If you, don't underestimate the precision with with the bearing seats have to be machined.
Without the flanges wouldn't you pull the axle out of the hub when you do up one of the tracknuts?
I'm a bit confused as to your intended use though - the length you've shown is only suitable for QR on an MTB - there won't be any axle sticking out to put the nuts on.
Axle migration under side-loading? So going round corners you mean?
Surely the axle is fixed in position by the two nuts on each side? Once it's installed and bolted up, I can't see how it could possibly move at all?
Thanks.
Simon1975, there are pairs of locknuts on either end of the axle that tighten up against the cartridge bearings and hold the axle in the correct position in the hub.
You're right, there isn't any axle sticking out, which is why I'm looking for a longer one to replace this one with.
I'm not an engineer, but sideloading isn't just going round corners. Taken as a component of all laoding applied to a wheel it is small, but still there.
Surely without flanges on the axle the entire wheel could side left to right on the axle, until the tyre runs into the rim, or the axle endcap grinds against the hub body, whichever happens first.
How much of a real-world likelyhood that is, is an unknown. As I say, you're in the realms of bodgery.
Bolt up skewer?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=26621
Just buy a chain tug FFS.
The axle is held in place by the locknuts, it can't move relative to the hub. The bearings don't even sit against the axle flanges, when you remove the locknuts there's about 2mm of sideways movement then available to the axle.
I've got a chaintug, but there are no QR sized ones that fit the frame, so I need a 10mm axle. I also don't want to load a 6mm QR like that as I don't think it would be strong enough.
