Advice on 1x9 set-u...
 

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[Closed] Advice on 1x9 set-up please...

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I am thinking of converting my Pipedream Sirius to 1x9 but would like a bit of help in deciding on setup.

As always, i'm trying to do this on a budget so how likely is it i can use my existing XT chainring?
I am using a square taper bb so any BB mounted chainguides will push my chainset/pedals/etc to the right a little bit and make it harder to line up with the chainring, are there any seat tube mounted chainguides available out there?
Could I use one of [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=10137 ]THESE[/url] as a chainguide or will it not provide enough tension to keep the chain on?
I have been riding for a while and not changing at the front on purpose and i think the 11-32t cassette is fine for my local trails, how much easier is a 34t at the back and should i consider getting one?

Any other pointers or advice people have would be useful too.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 11:53 am
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Use your xt middle chainring, it will be fine. 11/32 is fine. i think theres something called an ngear jumpstop which fits on the seat tube. This coupled with a cheap bash guard (something like a bbg) should keep your chain on if your just doing xc mincing.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 11:59 am
 GW
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you could always be super tight and just run your front mech as a guide.
won't hold your chain on over rough terrain or when back pedalling in top or bottom gear but if you're not too bothered about stopping to put your chain on once or twice a ride it'd do.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 11:59 am
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Bash ring and n-stop is all you need 🙂


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 12:00 pm
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bashrings are weighty tho aren't they? I was hoping to lose quite a lot of weight by going 1x9 as well as the simplicity as well.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 12:03 pm
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No, a bbg bashring is about 50g. Its made from dead thin alloy, not great for bashing but helps keep the chain on.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 12:05 pm
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you dont save a lot of weight from going 1x9.

EDIT: you save more wieght by going singlespeed!


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 12:07 pm
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on my Cotic I have a 34T up front and a 11-34 on the back - I've never not been able to ride up anything with that ratio, although some climbs (Wales, Peaks) have been a bit laboured because of the lack of granny ring.
you definitely need something to keep the chain on, I used to use a front mech but the chain dropped on normal lumpy terrain so I got an ethirteen XCX which is a nice little bit of kit - I had to flip the chainring round to get it to fit which means the chainring runs hideously close to the chainstay, but it works and the chainline isn't that important - a couple of mm won't make it not work.
if I did it again, I'd probably use spacers on the chainring to get it perfect.
not sure that answers your questions 😕


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 12:08 pm
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you dont save a lot of weight from going 1x9.

Er, yes, you do. 1x9 over xtr 3 ring using E13 guide and taking off front mech, shifter, cable and 2 redundant rings = over 250g saving.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 12:19 pm
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I'll probably be able to save more than that as i'm running xt shifters and deore front mech so quite a bit more weight than your xtr kit blazin-saddles


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 12:39 pm
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Bash ring and n-stop is all you need

yep..

wiggle have these cheap, but light and inc bolts and a sticker FSA bashes at the mo - i have one

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/FSA_104_PCD_Polycarbonate_Bash_Ring/5360019809/

doh! but now they have no stock again...

+ an N-Stop

£25-30 all in


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 12:43 pm
 DT78
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I've seen a few threads about home made guides using coins and old front mechs. If you do a bit of googling you should come across it eventually.

I'm using a mrp1x with a e13 34t ring. I loose the chain maybe once a ride when I really try to smash the bike through things, often it means I've fallen off anyway so it doesn't bother me.

A friend uses a mrp1x on his uzzi, and took it to the alps and didn't drop the chain once (we were surprised....) Must be in the setup.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 12:46 pm
 tang
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same as rootes1 here. no probs at all. plus ive got a 34 on the back which is good on a 29er. looks tidy also. pauls do a app effective simple light guide for 1x9, bit pricey but worth a look.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 1:20 pm
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http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=21874

how about one of these to fit to the seat tube?

any need for a bashguard with that?


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 1:41 pm
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just back from testing this
[img] [/img]

look Ma, no cable!
[img] [/img]

no issues with shifting, chain rub or chain dropping yet


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 1:44 pm
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you dont save a lot of weight from going 1x9.

These guys reckon they lost nearly 1lb(!):

http://www.mbr.co.uk/products/cranks/MRP_1X_Chain_device_review_article_289927.html

For me it was about 2/3 lb.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 1:57 pm
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Er, yes, you do. 1x9 over xtr 3 ring using E13 guide and taking off front mech, shifter, cable and 2 redundant rings = over 250g saving.

I can lose that much weight from having a turd and a p!ss!


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 2:24 pm
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That DMR thing that swoosh linked to would be fine. If you're more into pimpy gear then Pauls do a neat guide that mounts on the seat-tube.

http://www.paulcomp.com/chainkeeper.html


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 2:31 pm
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The DMR thing would be decent, I used one with a bottom roller for years riding downhill and only changed it cos it was looking a bit tatty, if you're willing to spend a few extra minutes fine tuning the alignment (I used the very fine shims you used to use on IS brake callipers) then you can get it running silently with no rubbing and be near impossible to de-rail the chain.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 2:51 pm
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These guys reckon they lost nearly 1lb(!):

http://www.mbr.co.uk/products/cranks/MRP_1X_Chain_device_review_article_289927.html

For me it was about 2/3 lb.

That's very confusing, it says they lost 442g, yet the photos of the stuff on the scales is 404g, and they've not included the added weight of the chain guide, unless I'm being dense.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 3:03 pm
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I know, it does look rather suspect. I think 2/3 lb, or 300g-ish, is more sensible based on my efforts at calculations. Guide is about 60g.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 3:04 pm
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Pauls chainkeeper is very good - expensive given what it is, but looks lovely & weighs nothing.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 4:29 pm
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Rickos - that Pauls Components chain keeper looks like it will do the job perfectly. Anyone know where i can get those from in the UK?


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 4:32 pm
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Just got my BBG bashguard its super light weight and looks strong enough and the risk of chain dropping is zero 😀


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 4:33 pm
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you'll save 450g easily, especially if you're running less than xtr. Don't forget your shortening the chain, and can run a short cage rear mech as well.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 7:31 pm
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i lost about a lb get an unramped unpinned chainring, an n stop and a ti bashring from the guy on here that sells them.... £30 it cost me

i think it loos better than the mrp guide route

[IMG] [/IMG]
[IMG] [/IMG]


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 7:43 pm
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Don't get me wrong, i'm sure that works and all but i just think bashguards look bad, so i'm trying to stay away from them if i can.

The pauls chain keeper looks the best option for me at the moment, but i dont think anyone has them in stock at the moment in the uk.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 8:15 pm
 tang
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[IMG] [/IMG]
I haven't read all the above posts, but this is my 22lb 1x9 canal commuter without any chainguide. You need a chainguide, the only way to stop the chain jumping off is to keep peddling thru ruff stuff, jumps and drops. On the canal that's not a problem, I like being forced to constantly peddle, anywhere else, it would be a PITA.


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 9:57 pm
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Billys for an nstop a lot cheaper tgan a pauls one


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 10:51 pm
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The Pauls Chainkeeper is spot on. I got in touch with [url= http://www.freshtripe.co.uk ]freshtripe.co.uk [/url]and got mine through them, reasonable price too, around £40 delivered iirc 8)

[IMG] [/IMG]


 
Posted : 23/07/2010 11:06 pm
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The DMR one was rubbish for me. Doesn't go low enough for a 32t ring, so the chain can easily bounce off the top. Plus it looks ugly and is noisy.

Best I've used is a full MRP guide thing (with inner and outer bashes and 2 rollers) but it was even uglier than the DMR and also gets clogged with mud very easily.


 
Posted : 24/07/2010 1:33 am
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Best I've used - light, quiet, doesn't clog and never fails:

[img] [/img]

E13 LS1


 
Posted : 24/07/2010 6:53 am

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