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OK, well not a single speed, but a hub gear. Its my commuter bike - Cotic Roadrat but it does have horizontal drop-outs. I've done a couple of hundred miles on it now and the chain is getting noticeably slack.
The rear wheel is a standard bolt-up job with a 15mm nut on both sides. I have slackened off both bolts, pulled the wheel back a bit and then nipped the bolts back up, but as I don't have 3 hands (and getting the wife to help somehow makes it more awkward!) I'm not convinced the wheel is square in the frame.
Would the process of tightening the bolts true everything up? The wheel isn't visually wonky, but just wondered if anyone had any tips for making sure it is spot on.
Thanks!
Do one side at a time.
Remember that adjusting non chain side, will still effect chain tension.
Don't forget to leave some chain slack. Turn the cranks and check the chain as it goes around. Different wear in different drivetrain components will cause tight and loose spots. It can only be as tight as the tightest combination.
Wedge your hand between the seat tube and tyre and use it as a jemmy to move wheel back while making minor adjustments with your hand to keep the tyre in line with the seatube. Obvs doesn't work as well with mudguards.
Chain tugs make life a lot easier.
Even if you only use one on the drive side you can at least add/subtract a quarter turn of tension, line the other side up and tighten the nut, then go back to the drive side.
Otherwise, no, there is no easy way, just get it tight enough that it can't fall off, not much point being more exact than that, slacker is far better than too tight.
-Leave non drive side tight.
-Loosen drive side.
-Hold non-drive chainstay near the rim, push thumb against side of rim until chain slack is taken up.
-Losen non-drive side and centre wheel in frame then tighten it up.
-Back pedal to make sure tension isn't too high.
Push a tennis ball between the tyre and seat tube to push the wheel back and hold it in place whilst you tighten the nuts.