[Closed] Adding hydraulic brakes to Shimano Sora 2x 9 speed

you need something like a Hope v-twin or Giant Connect brakeset where there's a remote reservoir up near the stem which the brake cables go to then hydraulic to the brak caliper, orsomething like Juin Tech R1 or R Hy-rd where each caliper has it's own reservoir and the cable goes to the caliper

Edit - there's a Giant Connect on the classifieds, not mine

https://singletrackmag.com/classifieds/advert/gravel-bundle/

Edit 2 - oh gosh I didn;t realise it was actually built into the stem, that's neater than the V-twin though not sure how the calipers compare against Hope calipers

Thanks for that. Was sort of hoping I could get Shimano hydraulic system + levers but of course that would require at least new rear mech and cassette as all of them are 10 or 11 speed.

Calling @piemonster

Thanks for that. Was sort of hoping I could get Shimano hydraulic system + levers but of course that would require at least new rear mech and cassette as all of them are 10 or 11 speed.

I think you'd need a complete groupset. The semi-hydro options above are your best bet unless you have deep pockets and an urge to upgrade.

Yeah as said you'd need to change your levers.

I'm running 2014 9 Speed Sora with Acor calipers which are rebranded Juin Tech R1s. I'm happy enough with them but have never used full road hydros.

If you can give me a week I’ll give you a ride report for Giant Conduct brakes.

These things https://www.cyclestore.co.uk/disc_brakes_giant

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The hoses on mine that lead to the callipers come out of the back of the head unit.

Theres also a fair chance you’ll need a new stem to match the bolt pattern. I just picked up a Giant one for £20 or something like that.

Hoses barbs and olives, Tektro will (hopefully) work. They certainly went in.

Mounting lights/GPS is a bit of a faff as the cable/hose arrangement gets in the way.

My current frame is built to a “commute to a targeted by scrotes location” so really didn’t want to spend that much money.

I had been running TRP Spyres but the local mud is insidious and always makes it into the cable housing leading to friction. This was primarily at the rear caliper where the cable exits the housing facing upwards, the rubber boots don’t help for long.

I've used cable discs, hope v-twins and both Shimano and sram hydros. Full hydros are better than the others for sure but as above you works need a full groupset. The v-twin is a massive step up from cheap, badly set up cable discs, though well set up BB7s or TRP Spyres will be very very nearly as good. I've not tried the Giant system myself but for £60 I think the set in the classifieds is worth trying if you want to upgrade. Equally, changing to BB7s or TRP Spyres may be worth trying if you can get some

Piemonster, that's exactly why I tried the hope v-twin. Massive difference.

I have Sora gears on my Arkose and wanted the same thing. As Piemonster, I used Giant’s conduct system.

I did need a new Giant stem, but luckily my brother had a spare one kicking around.

The system works really well. I’ve been very happy with it. Been using it for around 2 years now I think. Only downside is lack of space on the bars if you want to use lights/bells or the like, because the hydraulic reservoir is quite large.

The hoses on mine that lead to the callipers come out of the back of the head unit

Might be the better SL version. Do you have the thumb adjusters on the master cylinder pistons.

Hoses barbs and olives, Tektro will (hopefully) work.

They will, as will certain tektro calipers which are identical apart from logos (converted my conduct from flat to postmount using a tektro caliper). Uses a tektro bleed adapter as well.

It is the SL, I thought itd make all the difference 😆

Well the adjustment is easier. Got to be worth it for that 😃.

I think there’s some Giant connect bits in Classifieds.

+1 for the Giant system - a friend of mine fitted them and was very pleased

I did reply before, but it's missing for some reason. Around Christmas I went for a ride into the city (Nottingham) and on my way back down a relatively steep hill I applied the brakes and the fade was ridiculous. Not fun coming up to a roundabout on the main ring road and praying the bike stops. Not sure if the brakes were at fault or some contaminant got on the disc but no squeal and after this the brakes were working but I was not going 30mph. Will test this weekend on my way through Sherwood Pines and out to Clumber Park, not that there is any steepness there of course.

Thanks all, food for thought. If I went down the new groupset route, unlikely I'd find anything in stock anyway so will take a look at the Giant system.

I would just get a set of Juin Tech R1 For ~£120

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000549864362.html

These are a cable actuated hydro.

Or get the best cable calipers, word out of California is the excellent value Shimano BR-R317 has over taken the Avid BB7 as the best of the road-pull (not mtb v brake pull) disc brakes.

Oh and for road bikes, shimano 9 and 10 speed derailleurs are interchangeable (NOT MTB tho you could use an MTB 9 mech on a road 10 shifter).

So if you found a set of 10 speed brakes/STI you would just need a cassette you could keep the mech,.

Went through this fairly recently. Was about to go for the Giant thingy but ended up just going 1x10 for a cost of about £140 all in. Glad I did as it's a proper setup now and doesn't have cables to mess around with

Make sure your brake levers have the correct cable pull for the giant conduct system - guess how I know 😕

Interesting @dickyboy,  hadn't considered that. Although I get enough to endo so think I'm fine.

What levers did you have?

I don't think they play nice with sram levers.

Oh and for road bikes, shimano 9 and 10 speed derailleurs are interchangeable (NOT MTB tho you could use an MTB 9 mech on a road 10 shifter).

The new Tiagra 10 speed group isn't interchangeable, other than with 11 speed groupsets. Or so I've read: I haven't tried mixing and matching.

@piemonster I had some tiagra 9 speed triple st4503 levers but I think I needed at least 10 speed st4603 levers to get better cable pull. I think the levers must be at least the "SLR" type.

Currently not a happy bunny 😕

road brakes (even flat bar road roadbrakes but especially STIs) have a differnt pull to mtb brakes so you need to get the right caliper - you can e.g. get BB7 or BB7mtn, or TRP Spyre (road) and TRP Spyke (mtb)

groupset wise the tiagra 4700 groupset doesnt mix and match with any other shimano groupset. guess wihch one I have?

Hmm sorry to hijack, I'm looking at a tiagra
4700 chainset but are you saying it won't play nicely with my 8 speed claris setup?

Think a chainset will be fine, its mixing shifters/derailleurs that has all these compatibility issues

SLR brake levers just change the pull ratio through the stroke, so the pads move fast at the beginning and then slow down with greater leverage as they hit the rim. This means you can set the pads up without rubbing and get good power as they hit the rim.

Suspect the giant system is designed for SLR?

Or get the best cable calipers, word out of California is the excellent value Shimano BR-R317 has over taken the Avid BB7 as the best of the road-pull (not mtb v brake pull) disc brakes.

/blockquote>

This+1
I got some shimano r517 callipers (105 level cable disc) from wiggle for £17 an end a few months ago to go with tiagra 2x9 brifters on a monstercross type build. They really are good. Much better than previous cable discs I’ve experienced. The key was compressionless cable though. Got some jagwire outer in lovely green to match the frame.
I don’t feel that I need hydro discs on that bike at all. Yes I will have to adjust for pad wear from time to time.

 

@docrobster Is it these

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-BR-R517-Calliper_204044.htm

Ignore it's Tredz

I have had Juin tech R1's for about 9 months on gravel bike, they are very good and a massive improvement over the cable Spyres they replaced.

I had R1's for a year or so of 4seasons commuting. The problem with is if they are fitted to the chainstay water and crap runs down the actuating rod which rusts the rod and also kills the seals. Rebuild kits are available but they are a pain to rebuild and bleed. Mine were sold as spares or repair in the end.

IMO the problem with expensive road hydro levers is that they bear the brunt of crashes in a way that flat bar levers avoid.

I had been running TRP Spyres but the local mud is insidious and always makes it into the cable housing leading to friction. This was primarily at the rear caliper where the cable exits the housing facing upwards, the rubber boots don’t help for long

.

These are your friend (also made by Middleburn) - fit halfway along a cable outer and periodically blast with lube of choice.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cables/jtek-cable-oilers-5mm-black-3-pack/

@RustyNissanPrairie - I had the same issue with the cable onmy old trek CX, problem is if your brake caliper is mounted on the chainstay, the end of the cable where it joins the caliper actually points up. Fine for california or for hydraulics but for cable actuated brakes, the reslut is that the end of the cable just gets gunked up and nid cable middleburn oilers won't really help in that situation. Pros and cons all round as you say though

@wooksterbo
Yes it’s those calipers. They are £14 an end on wiggle right now.
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-r517-road-disc-brake-caliper
Complete and utter bargain

@wooksterbro

Bit of a delay, but having had some time with the Giant Conduct brakes I can say, once set up*, they are excellent in use. Plenty of power available.

*setting up, however is not so good, the bleed process is a bit on the fussy side.