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I bought a digital gauge which died and was replaced under warranty, that died and was replaced under warranty,
So i then bought a Lifeline version.
Now this i've only had 2-3 months but i can't find where i bought it to return. It goes to 0psi as soon as you disconnect, instead of showing the figure. So as a fudge you can kinda see it when it's on, but it's not ideal.... It looks basically like a rebadged version of the Oxford.
Today i've just got https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184622276689?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
I bought it as it's non-digital and therefore "what can go wrong"...
Well sadly it's 3psi @ 20 incorrect. (measured with 3 other items that register almost exactly the same)
Along with an issue when you connect that it loses a little more when you check, sometimes 1, someitmes 2psi...
Enough anyway that i'm not happy it's consistent enough to be of use to us.
I can't keep replacing gauges every 6-8 weeks and i do like a bit of consistency when setting up the lads bike....
So, what do you recommend ?
Topeak's smartgauge is good imo and I think would do what you need. They seem to last forever, and the batteries are replacable.
I can't say "accurate" though. I mean, I don't care at all, I want consistent, it just doesn't matter to me if it says 15psi and it's actually 14.
I can’t say “accurate” though. I mean, I don’t care at all, I want consistent, it just doesn’t matter to me if it says 15psi and it’s actually 14.
I'm fine with that of course, it's impossible to know which is accurate and which isn't... but i'd like a reasonable guesstimate that is is.
the huge number of 1* reviews isn't exactly filling me with happiness.
SKS Airchecker Air Pressure Gauge with Dual Head
Keeps the reading when you remove. Consistent readings.
Well sadly it’s 3psi @ 20 incorrect. (measured with 3 other items that register almost exactly the same)
That is consistent if it's out by 3psi at 20 every time. (Also how do you know the 20 your checking against is correct?).
Assuming this is for your tyres the 3psi doesn't actually matter, it's consistency you need. Whether they're running at 17 or 23psi or 4 mars bars is irrelevant.
Accuracy is expensive, and only good for a limited range. Accuracy for low pressure is only really good for a (more and more) limited number of applications so pressure gauges that are accurate at 20psi are going to be staggeringly costly.
Unless it's safety critical kit (and by that I mean the 17 or 23psi is potentially fatal) it's not worth the expense (if it is for tyres I wouldn't think it's worth the expense of anything beyond your thumb in honesty as the casing makes more difference than the pressure over 3psi)
it loses a little more when you check, sometimes 1, someitmes 2psi…
The only way to get past that is a good inl inline gauge, let air out then inflate back to the desired pressure.a stand alone gauge will never get away from the issue on presta valves.
That is consistent if it’s out by 3psi at 20 every time. (Also how do you know the 20 your checking against is correct?).
I've got other gauges and also borrowed a mates Oxford that i bought him for Xmas.
Unless it’s safety critical kit (and by that I mean the 17 or 23psi is potentially fatal) it’s not worth the expense (if it is for tyres I wouldn’t think it’s worth the expense of anything beyond your thumb in honesty as the casing makes more difference than the pressure over 3psi)
MAybe i'm more of a perfectionist that most... but i like to know things are 100% perfect before sending the boy down the hill in races.
100% perfect
We're going to have problems with this.
Just don't measure at the top and the bottom!
i’d like a reasonable guesstimate that is is.
but i like to know things are 100% perfect
one of these things is not like the other
) limited number of applications so pressure gauges that are accurate at 20psi are going to be staggeringly costly.
This. 3psi really isn't worth the bother.
How about contacting some pro race teams and ask what they use, or how 100% accurate they need to be. Should give you an idea of what you're worrying about.
How about contacting some pro race teams and ask what they use
About 30-35psi iirc from a PB interview (a few but not that many years ago) with Josh bryceland. Obviously the comments section was overrun with people expounding the need for lower pressures.
The only way to ensure that you are taking accurate and repeatable measurements is to have a device that can be calibrated, and to send if off regularly for recalibration. Something like this should do the trick:
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/m-a-horne-professional-digital-tyre-pressure-gauge-245152/
Alternatively just find a way to deal with it mentally. Perhaps buy a gauge that reads in Bar. You'd be less bothered by a 0.2Bar difference.
Accugage. I don't know how accurate it is objectively but the readings I get from it are consistent which surely is what matters here.
The topeak one is great. Super easy to use, mine has none of the issues reported on CRC; seals perfectly and quickly on presta valves for example, I note as a proportion of the total thats not a high number of problems reported.
I've got a topeak D2. I find it infuriating to use. Not because of the accuracy or repeatability, but the fitting to valve is utterly hit and miss. On at least one of my tubes, it will not make a fit at all and just bleeds air. On many other tubes I've used it with, I struggle to get a consistent fit without leaks, though it is usually possible with very precise alignment. I certainly wouldn't recommend one, and is the reason I'm in this thread.
I use the Topeak D2. No problems at all with it in the 3 years I've been using it, I don't need 100% accuracy though. 60% of the time it works every time.
I have the Topeak and I have to agree with UrbanHiker, it's really annoying. Unless you push it in the valve at exactly, and I do mean exactly, the right angle ,you get very inconsistent readings . This morning my front tyre read 5psi and then 25 within seconds.
I shall be looking at some of the above suggestions for a replacement
I have a Topeak one with no issues, pushing it on straight is easy enough
My Topeak D2 was good enough until it died after years of use.
There's a ribbon cable between the head and the body & 2 out of 4 wires broke.
Replaced it with an SKS Airchecker which I don't find as easy to use.
Out of the two I'd go back to a D2 but go easy on twisting the head back & forth.
Accu-gage [sic]
(Although I also have one of the same mechanical ones as the OP and find it consistent enough - only ever use it for comparative measurements, so not fussed about accuracy per-se.)
I've got the topeak. Seems to work. Not had any fitting issues
Accu-Gage?
Just adding some balance to the glowing reviews above. I've got one of these and it's s***. It leaks air when on the valve like it's got a hole in it and the pressure readings are waaaay out. I asked for it as a present from the wife a couple of years ago as it looked like exactly what I was after but it's so bad I just can't bring myself to use it. A shame as I really like the feel of it.
accu-guage (30psi) was great for a week.. then it was rubbish. Replaced with a Blackburn honest gauge, which seems more consistent.
I've never really understood what's wrong with using a floor pump with a dial before riding?
Are you checking pressure on the trails?
I tend to vary mine based on the conditions and the trails i ride, but i make the decision before i start riding.
I’ve never really understood what’s wrong with using a floor pump with a dial before riding?
Are you checking pressure on the trails?
I bought a park tools floor pump. I thought "well, it's park tools, it should be accurate"
when it shows 20psi, the pressure is actually 30psi. So now, it's a bit pointless. My Decathlon one was better, but still quite a bit out.
I'm the same with motorbike tyres on track, they're checked a couple of times per day (although they are checked HOT and on tyre warmers). I don't get why people don't want things 'correct'.
"oh you know, it's only 3-4psi...." well yes... but i don't want 3-4psi, whether i'm right or wrong, whether i can or cannot notice or whether it makes a difference, i don't care... i just want it RIGHT...
In classic recommend what you have:
ACCUBAR PRESSURE GAUGE
I have one of those - YMMV but the Schraeder valve on the pump end is plastic and broke disappointingly easily for me, although of course that doesn't affect the pressure measurement.
In a similar vein I've had two of the OPs gauges in various guises (Panasonic, Lifeline) - always been good for me, the only reason I've replaced them is that I lost the first one. I have heard that they can be affected/contaminated by sealant, although how you avoid that is anyone's guess.
Well, that's annoying. I've got two dirt cheap floor pumps. A Jet Black that's about 4 years old and a Maxxis (exactly the same with a different sticker), that's 10 years old. They both read the same on the gauge, and that seems to tally with the reading on my air compressor.
It's rarely below 20 degrees here so all tyres are checked hot 😛
although how you avoid that is anyone’s guess.
Don't worry Muc Off will be along with a special 10 quid thingamijig to solve the problem you didn't know you had.
Hey weeksy, I found the lifeline one was a bit flakey - worked for a while and then just seemed to give up for no apparent reason. Also find my Lezyne track pump is highly inaccurate.
After reading some reviews I went for an SKS air checker. That was December 2020 and it’s still working fine at the moment. Easy to switch between presta and schraeder and psi / bar. Holds the pressure number when you remove it from the valve and has a bleed button to let out small amounts of pressure if you need to.
Keep using the one you have, if it’s always 3 out, then you’re fine.
I have heard that they can be affected/contaminated by sealant, although how you avoid that is anyone’s guess.
Set the wheel with the valve stem at the 4 o'clock position so that sealant can drain out of it. Attach your pump and pump a couple of shots of air through the valve to blow and remaining sealant out of the valve stem. Remove the pump and check the pressure with your gauge. If you don't do this, you will probably get sealant into your gauge and it will cause problems. Just a minor unavoidable hassle of running sealant in tyres.
I have a Topeak digital gauge that I've been using for about 20 years. I have no idea how accurate it is, that doesn't matter. All that matters is that it's consistent. Recommended tyre pressures are just a rough starting point, you have to experiment a bit to find the best pressures for you on the trails you ride. It doesn't really matter whether the true pressure is 25 psi or 20 psi as long as your gauge gives the same reading each time and you can set them to the same pressure. I have a JoeBlow floor pump with an analogue gauge that reads a couple of psi below my digital gauge. It doesn't matter as long as I set the pressure to the same setting on whichever gauge I'm using.
I've found the Topeak one to be fine - yes, you do have to push it on at exactly the right angle but I've not had a massive issue with that.
Checked it against a calibrated gauge and it was within 0.5psi, which is the smallest increment anyway, so an acceptable uncertainty of measurement 😁
“oh you know, it’s only 3-4psi….” well yes… but i don’t want 3-4psi, whether i’m right or wrong, whether i can or cannot notice or whether it makes a difference, i don’t care… i just want it RIGHT…
I'm similarly anal and use the Plaseebo Gauge made by a German engineering corporation, Von Pedant I.C Gmbh. You simple pre-programme it with your correct tyre pressure and when you connect it to the valve, it shows that exact value to three decimal points regardless of the actual pressure of the tyre.
After a while you forget how it works and simply bask in the reassurance that the air pressure is completely right. Obviously you need to be a little careful, I use calibrated finger/thumb pinch gauge to get things in the ballpark before I use the Plasseebo, but with care it works just fine, is 120.99% accurate every time and secure connection to the valve itself is optional.
ive got the topeak one and the oxford one.
It annoys me that the topeak one only reads to the nearest psi.
I don’t get why people don’t want things ‘correct’.
I think the point you are missing here is that the gauges you are using are 'Correct' [within an acceptable margin of error].
Every measurement device has error. The challenge is to select a device that is suitable for the task you need it for. For most people the cheap gauges you can buy for bicycles are good enough. there is no reason to expect the Park one to be any better than the cheap one from Decathlon, they are all made to the same design, and probably all in the same factory. I very much doubt they are tested, and certainly not calibrated. They are all cheap commercial grade gauges.
If you want more accurate, and there is nothing wrong with that, then you will need to pay more. A lot more, see my link above. And if you want it to remain accurate, you will need to send it off for regular recalibration, like any other measurement device that requires accuracy. What you want is available, if you are prepared to pay for it.
I think the point you are missing here is that the gauges you are using are ‘Correct’ [within an acceptable margin of error].
I'm not missing that in the slightest. But i've not found that yet... well, not one that continues to work. Both the Lifeline and the Oxford read pretty much exactly the same as eachother, i'd take that... but the buggers keep breaking and i'm on my 3rd in a year. So even though they're accurate (to eachother) that's no good if they stop working.
I have no issues paying more, never in the discussion have i mentioned cheap.
when it shows 20psi, the pressure is actually 30psi. So now, it’s a bit pointless.
How can it be pointless... once you know what the reading v pressure is?
Similar to BadlyWiredDog, I use the Plaseebo. Not sure if it's recommended for under 18s though.
We have the older SKS Air checker had it for years, also got the Lezyne Digital Macro Floor Drive pump. Daughter has the Topeak Smart D2 Pressure Gauge.
They all read the same, so either they are fairly accurate or they are all inaccurate to the same amount.
All that matters is that you just use the same one but also remember, different conditions and different tyres usually mean different pressures.
It's winter now, and my tyres are running less pressure than I'd use in summer - although I'm Scotland, so summer has been known to be muddier than winter 🙂
How can it be pointless… once you know what the reading v pressure is?
BEcause below 25psi it barely shows a figure. My lad runs 20psi on the rear and 18psi on the front, neither of those register on the Park floor pump, i can use it to get to my 27-28psi pretty close, but my boys pressures don't really work on it.
I've been happy with the accu-gauge; I much prefer it to the digital ones I've used in the past (topeak and SKS, both broke). I'm careful not to chuck it around the place though
Similar to BadlyWiredDog, I use the Plaseebo. Not sure if it’s recommended for under 18s though.
Their Strahoo Fraudulnt bike computer / GPS works on similar lines and is great. I've had so many KOMs since I started using it. Highly recommended.
Pretty sure this whole thread is just Weeksy trying to justify buying these.
https://www.sram.com/en/quarq/models/wh-trwz-a1
Accu-gauge says:
[i]displays 2% accuracy between 7.5 psi and 22.5 psi and 3% accuracy across the rest of its range.[/i]
So that ain't gonna work is it!
My lad runs 20psi on the rear and 18psi on the front, neither of those register on the Park floor pump, i can use it to get to my 27-28psi pretty close, but my boys pressures don’t really work on it.
Joking aside, I use a Fabric Accubar for pressures in the same region on 650b+ - it works fine for me, screws onto the valve securely so there's no connection issue, has a bleed button, easy to read, reads from 0-40psi and so far - touch wood - I've not managed to snap the pump connection off. It's nice as it sits inline between the tyre and the track pump, so no repeated pump / gauge / pump / gauge faff. And no battery. Seems consistent with other gauges I have.
I don’t get why people don’t want things ‘correct’.
perfect is the enemy of good. You've been on here a number of times saying that when you ask laddo about changes, he just shrugs and gets on with it. He doesn't seem to be the one that needs things to be 'correct'
I’ve had the Topeka and the sks. Both shit. Accuguage is the easiest to get a reading from but I don’t use it often. I *think* the issue with most is that the spray of tubeless jizz they get when you attach the, messes them up.
I attached a £5 low pressure gauge onto an sks rennkompressor pump. You want a Guage that has your target pressure around the middle of the dial as accuracy goes off at tge extremes (I think mine tops out at 60psi so it’s good in the 15-30 range I’m using). Because it’s on a pump with a long hose the jizz shouldn’t get beyond the hose and because it’s on a pump it’s one device to get the right pressure not two.
He doesn’t seem to be the one that needs things to be ‘correct
No he doesn't, you're right there.
Doesn't mean I can't make thing as close to accurate as I can though. I'm not sure why it feels like people think I'm in the wrong for trying to do things right ☺️
I’m not sure why it feels like people think I’m in the wrong for trying to do things right ☺️
Because this is STW and it’s Thursday, (I think) and someone thinks you’re wrong and there will be some else who thinks they’re wrong but in a differently wrong way.
that's ok. because two wrongs make a right!
I’m not sure why it feels like people think I’m in the wrong for trying to do things right
No one is saying you are wrong for wanting to get it 'right'. We are all saying that your expectations for what is 'right' are too high for the cheap gauges you are buying (you didn't use the word cheap, but you are buying cheap).
Better, more expensive alternatives are available, but the majority of users don't want or need better.
The bigger issue seems to be that the commercially available gauges keep breaking and that generally presta valves are very difficult to take pressure readings from without bleeding lots of air off. Some of the responses further up would seem to be useful in that respect, some recommendations for types of gauge with a air chuck that is easy to use, how not to get sealant in the gauge and advice on using a in-line gauge on the pump so that you don't lose air checking after pumping.
Excellent post
We are all saying that your expectations for what is ‘right’ are too high for the cheap gauges you are buying
I'm not... I'm saying a small %age difference in a psi reading just isn't worth obsessing about. The difference could be the amount of air coming through the valve, the connection between the gauge and the valve, the ambient temperature... your kid could have had a poo one morning making him fractionally lighter on the bike that day.. do you weigh him every time he races?
Stumbled across theses...
https://www.efficientvelo.com/tools/bleedin-gauge
They look like they would fit the OP's requirement.
Interestingly, these are the 1st gauges I've seen that mention being designed to deal with sealant, which is a problem that most gauges deal with by saying "dont get sealing in them".
I was about to push the buy button, but thought I'd revisit my track pump gauge. So this morning, after about 20 years of owning it, I've finally worked out how to get a consistent reading from it. Very much a doh! moment I have to admit. Super happy though, as no need for a separate gauge now.
🤜
Two things:
The measurement system includes you. The way you use the gauge affects repeatability.
Electronic gauges are affected significantly by ambient temperature, especially cheap ones as they won't be thermally compensated. Your pressure reading outside in the winter will not be the same as summer.
Weeksy, I use the Topeak D2 and like many I found it has worked well for several years. There is a knack of using it with Presta valves, but it is easily learned with a bit of practice. I liked it enough to buy another one for my car tyres.
the huge number of 1* reviews isn’t exactly filling me with happiness
It has 22 1* vs 312 5* - that's an excellent rating, what are you expecting? If you gave out free money a few people would still give a 1* review!
The measurement system includes you. The way you use the gauge affects repeatability.
This is also very true, to adjust the pressure by +/-2-3psi on an analogue gauge, just close one eye and step left or right a bit.
accurate, consistent and reliable presta guage ?
None of them?
Some might be vaguely repeatable but seeing as none of the bicycle gauges I have seen have an accuracy statement (and definition of what that includes) I wouldn't pay a huge amount of attention the figure apart from using it in a "X feels OK and I don't clang the rims - use X again" manner.
Saying it's display's resolution is to .1 PSI is meaningless, without the accuracy being known.
I work at the same company as Supersessions in a Custom Product/Tech Support/etc role and I'm surprised the likes of big factory teams haven't looked at this particularly for shock/fork pressures.
Surely what matters is getting the tyres at the right pressure for what is being ridden irrespective of what any cheap ass bike pressure gauge shows.
I trained as an control electrical engineer and as part of my apprenticeship I spent a fair chunk of time in our BS / EN certified test lab testing and calibrating stupidly expensive pressure gauges and measuring equipment, each and every one required adjusting every time they were tested.
As said above consistency in readings is more important than actual readings. So what if the gauge reads 30psi every time, if that 30psi feels right on the day and in the given conditions then go with it, just make a mental note of what actually works and forget about the numbers.
Don’t forget that all these gauges are measuring with respect to atmospheric pressure which can vary by the best part of 1 PSI. (Certainly 0.5 PSI from day to day.)
So if you set your tyre pressures on a Friday when it’s wet and windy, they’ll be softer when you go out on Sunday once the weather has settled and the sun has come out.
I think a reasonable solution here would be a track pump with a lower max pressure
I can see pumps that top out at 30 psi and 60psi
What I’ve learnt is that track pumps have the advantage that nothing goes from wheel back towards the valve. So sealant won’t muck things up
But I seem to be able to get 20 rear 18 front just fine with my joe blow 2
I bought an SKS. They're only £19.99 in Decathlon and i needed to head there anyway.