[Closed] A question for the roadies out there

If you want one, get one.

Otherwise get a flat bar hybrid if you want to be really sensible 🙂

The very fact you are thinking about having a bespoke bike made for you means that deep down you know you really want one! You may well ride more if you are on a bike you really like.

If you can afford it, do it. If you are going to regret something, regret doing it rather than not doing it!

What price do they start and who do you recommend? I definitely don't want a hybrid. I always used to ride on the drops but I think the only reason I don't now is that the current bike doesn't really fit very well

Besides, I need to spend the savings before my wife thinks of another home improvement project 😆

I do about 100 miles a week on a second hand £100 decathlon. But I'm pretty sure I'd do more with a nicer bike.

Try just getting on the drops during descents, it makes you go faster and gives you better control over the handling and brakes. Usually more comfortable too.

You could look into [url= http://www.principia.dk/ ]Principia[/url]. Theyre a small Danish company, and apparently they can all tell which of their employees made your bike just from looking at the welds.

brian rourke
nice frames.

Brian Rourke are only down the road so might take a first look there. The staff seem friendly too

Get something titanium, with Hope wheels and a shimano groupset. The rest is upto you, dependant on sizing requirements.

Others will have other ideas but that kind of set up will last for ages and servicing is a breeze.

decide on the material or builder first because one will guide the other.

Titanium Frame, Campagnolo Group, Deda Finishing, Handbuilt Wheels, Garmin GPS,

Heaven. Do not deviate from the above or you will just regret it.

[url= http://picasaweb.google.com/noughttosixty/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCPLnrdeZoZC9WQ# ]some cliff bikes[/url]Go for it and contact Cliff Shrubb. Less expensive than Brian Rourke and is considered to be the best.

a 953 frame with carbon fork will be under a grand. 853 quite a bit less

Thanks for all the advice, particularly MTT 🙂
The fact no one has mentioned moolah worries me somewhat. Are we talking £3000 plus here?

Thanks leggyblonde. I don't follow the bike industry so no idea of £ for parts. How much (ish) for a full build. The roadie equivalent of SLX/XT groupset is fine as an upgradeable starting point.

If it is one bike for life then I would support what MTT says above other than I am a Shimano user/fan. I would also recommend classic shaped tubing for long term classic appeal.

Having said that I do seem to prefer the ride of a carbon frame but they lack the timeless quality of Ti. Perhaps it is down to the slightly different geometries but I ride my carbon bike far more than my Ti one.

Rourke 953 once you see on you'll be smitten. Deal with Brian, he has years knowledge. Go for it you know you want to. As for money £3000 could go easily choose your spec wisely and you'll have a brilliant bike. All of this probably applies to Cliff Shrubb or Bob Jackson.

Probabaly around £3000. Will pay back over the years though, look after it and you'll only need new cables, brake blocks and tyres every few thousand miles. Depending on usage of course.

If you allow £800 for an nice frame and forks, £400 for a campag veloce or shimano 105 groupset, £200 for some handbuilt wheels and £300 for finishing kit you would end up with a really nice bike.

[i]The roadie equivalent of SLX/XT groupset is fine as an upgradeable starting point. [/i]

You mean 105? A very capable groupset if you don't have a huge budget to pay for. Although I would probably want something a bit more flash if I was having a custom frame built.

Do I mean 105??? Don't know. Genuinely I have NO IDEA of road bits. I am an avid follower of the MTB scene and all the accompanying bling, but I just "ride" a road bike. I have heard of Red and Durace or whatever it is called but where it all fits together in the grand scheme I am clueless. In a way I don't want to get into it, 'cos that's when the "dream bike" becomes the "project that needs updating" - I'd rather stay oblivious and just have a great bike

Groupsets:
SRAM have Rival < Force < Red
Shimano have Tiagra < 105 < Ultegra < Dura Ace (for 2009 there was Ultegra and Ultegra SL, for 2010 it reverts back to just the one "Ultegra")

No idea re Campagnolo but you don't want that rubbish anyway... 😉

A thought for the mix. If I wasn't racing, and wanted a bike I didn't have to worry about, I'd definitely go for down-tube shifters. Then your levers aren't as vulnerable, or as expensive to replace. It is surprising how little it matters not having the STIs. I have downtube shifters on my winter bike and it really is impossible to care.

🙂

Mmm, not sure I like that idea. I always had downtube shifters as a kid but my current bike has STIs and I like a lot. I can't imagine honking up some of the hills around here and then having to let go with one hand to change gear, whilst unweighting so not to crunch the gears. NOt sure how I managed before STIs to be frank

my 10speed veloce ergos have lasted 5 years of cross no problem, they've been crashed many times and subjected to worse mud than most MTB components!

You could also try Ribble Cycles they do custom builds and are reasonably priced. Titanium, Carbon or Steel frame is a must if you are looking more at general riding/touring as they are much comfier to ride, they give a little unlike aluminium which lets you know every little bumps in the road 🙁 Which ever material you decide upon a carbon fork will give you even more comfort 😛
Try to buy the best groupset you can afford as they are definately worth the extra expence.

I hardly ever get on the drops, preferring to ride on the hoods most of the time

I'd agree about Brian rourke , well worth the money, Jason is a very nice guy to deal with, as for groupsets if your going to get a proper road bike get a proper road groupset - campagnolo, forget about anything else, really, they either don't have the quality or the pedigree.

If you want "the best" then spaff £3K

I've got a nice oldish steel frame and mid/low range bits - way better value for money!

nothing wrong with shimano or sram. get the one that has hoods that suit your hands and with shifting that suits you. (i couldn't get on with the thumb lever of campag so went shimano)
"quality or pedigree" what a load of rubbish. real racers seem to manage with new stuff (sram) and the stuff made in the east with no history* (shimano)

*in 1921 Shozaburo Shimano established Shimano Iron Works. and began production of bicycle freewheels.

I ride on the drops when I'm going fast personally!

leggyblonde - glad to hear that, I worry constantly about mine. Maybe I should just relax... 🙂

Mr Smith nothing wrong with Sram or Shimano road groupsets just campag is better, end of.

if it's better why haven't they put shimano out of business and allowed a new competitor to take some of the market share?
it can't be just price driven.
i'm not a fanboy trying to reinforce my own purchasing choice by dismissing other products. i just don't understand why campag is the only groupset manufacturer worth considering?

Mostly because you are now being reeled in.
I'd get properly measured and get some idea of frame geomoetry/sizes before going much further and then taking a look.
I have a nearly 12 year old 853 road bike which I use almost everyday. Designed specifically for me for what I wanted it to do, be fast enough handling, but also versatile enough to be able to take mudguards and now onto its 2nd groupset (originally 9spd Daytona, now 10spd Centaur carbon) and an American 6/4 road bike with Record/Chorus 10spd. Both do different jobs but I ride both and intedn to do so for some few years to come.

Oh please don't let this degenerate into a Campag vs Shimano debate!!

OP: decide on frame material and if you want true custom build or if an off-the-peg frame will do. No one material is "better" than another - pretty much anything (even carbon) will last a decade or more although titanium probably wins if you want it to look like new forever.
Decide on groupset and finishing kit. Whereas MTB is generally a mix-and-match of components and parts (eg XTR rear mech, XT bits and say a Truvativ or Race Face chainset) road bikes usually have just one groupset (eg Ultegra).
Wheels can be groupset hubs built up onto your choice of rim or a factory set like Mavic, Shimano, Campag, Zipp, etc etc.
Whether you like it or not though you're going to have to look into it a lot in order to work out what you want and, assuming you're going to be building a pride-and-joy, last forever bike I'd guess you won't be getting much change out of £3000.

biting otr not it doesn't help the answer the O.P. though does it.
ask them in Rourke cycles what they think. tell them somebody on the internet told you that campag is the best and see what they say.
🙂

Groupset doesn't matter, what the OP has asked about is frame.
Lots of people have replied with thoughts about frame, but you appear to have got caught up in groupset which is 6-9 months away as a custom frame will take "frame builder unreality co-efficient" time to arrive after being ordered.
My 853 frame took 11 months from being ordered and my Ti frame took 6 months to arrive.

Not that I have one (wouldn't mind one though), but a complete custom bike from £1800.

http://www.robertscycles.com/

Away from the Campag/Shimano playground squabling....

I suspect, stilltortoise, you're probably not really looking for an ultimate bike, just a much nocer one than you have. Heading into something where you (by admission) have minimal knowledge suggests that you may not be confident of making the right decision if having a custom frame and build.

Stick with the research first to see what you think would be a reasonable overall budget and then start thinking around it from there.

Oh, and the riding on the drops thing is down to bike positioning. Most road riders use the hoods, and I'm also of the view that drop bars are often too deep for non-racing riders (indded, plenty of racers I know only use shallow drops).

Go to somewhere decent to get a bike fitting done and discuss with them the type of riding you want to do and what you want the bike for. I reckon frame material, construciton, component choice will flow from that, rather than the other way around.

Seeing as your 'peakish', try Bicicletta just of Ecclesall road in Sheffield, or Race Scene in Barnsley.

Bicicletta are linked to the Lynsky importers and will measure you for custom titanium goodness.

Racescene in Barnsley have a huge range of OTP and MTM brands in stock.

i had a bespoke frame made for time trialling. i am a fairly normal shape and i would have to say, after using it a few years, it was a waste of money. there are loads of great bikes/frame available off the peg. just take your time choosing whats right for you. also, are you sure you want something for the rest of your life? after a few years you might fancy a change.

My twopennorth after years of riding steel/alu/carbon road bikes; don't bother with a bespoke bike, and forget the bike-for-life thing.
The riders I know who bought bespoke bikes loved them for a few years, and love them still, but they actually [b]ride[/b] the latest carbon bike.
Bicycle technology has developed to such an extent that todays bespoke bike is tomorrows retro-cool bike and next weeks curiosity.
Just buy a decent-ish road bike, and if you like it and can afford it, buy another when you feel the time is right.
Bikes are like computers; they go out of date, and should be purchased and ridden with that idea firmly in mind.

get a carbon frame with shimano components and mavic wheels ,scott cervelo or trek you cant go wrong ,I would stay away from titanium they feel crap to ride .

get a carbon frame with shimano components and mavic wheels ,scott cervelo or trek you cant go wrong ,I would stay away from titanium they feel crap to ride .

Yep 2nd that...got a last season Cannondale a few years back does me fine, saved a third of the cost of a "new" model...what's the budget you're working to? let the Big Manufacturers economy of scale work in your favour, especially now kits getting crazy in price!

PS I prefer shimano as do the majority of roadies I know!.. but test ride a few if possible

You sure you're going to enjoy road bikes if you're a mountainbiker?

Suggest you consider a cyclocross bike so you can flog it offroad too.

(I used to keep doing this to my road bikes - go for a ride on road, see a nice track, and next thing I'm bashing 23mm tyres over large rocks. Eventually got wise and got cyclocross oriented frame)

Paul Hewitt can build you up a nice lightweight bespoke steel frame, using Columbus tubing and spec it with some of his handbuilt wheels. A mate is getting an audax bike built up at the moment.

I would stay away from titanium they feel crap to ride
Funny that, I must be missing something when I ride mine. It feels great, fast and comfortable and very responsive. I tested alot of bikes before buying the frame and they all road differently. My favourite carbon bike was the Giant TCR but the geometry just didn't suit me. Why not try out a few before deciding on a custom frame as you may find one that fits. Don't get hung up on the groupset and wheels (well you can if you like) 😉 although if you do test some bikes try shimano,campag & sram equipped ones and see which system you prefer.

 

A bike for life is a big ask, if I'd made that decision thirty odd years ago I'd be riding a very 'out of date' bike.
Also don't assume your first custom build will be perfect for you, a selection of tubes and plans even in a masters hands might not cater for any 'perculiar' things about your riding.
There are plenty of realy good off the peg bikes out there.

I'd echo the "bike for life" thing being risky - unless you get something that is unlikely to change in the future like ti or steel.

Very few folk that but the latest best technology keep it for long.

I got a bespoke frame from Principia I still love it to bits.

(I thought they didn't make them any more I heard their top design guy went to Cannondale ?)

Anyways, well worth the money if you are odd size and shape I am 5 nothing with shorty legs so it worked for me. Not sure I see the point if you can fit pret-a-porter bikes.

Group set choice at the top end is a question of weight versus performance. Dura-Ace is lighter than Ultegra (is that the right way around ?) but not convinced it performs any better, so if weight is an issue spend up.

get a carbon frame with shimano components and mavic wheels ,scott cervelo or trek you cant go wrong ,I would stay away from titanium they feel crap to ride .

There goes a man without a clue.

custom titanium goodness

Can I just say how much I loathe that '.... goodness' construct. It makes me want to barf every time I read or hear it. Just so repulsively twee, like two limp-wristed fashionistas having a good old natter over some over-priced cucumber sandwich.

Oh, and the Planet X Lynskey ti frames look rather nice from where I'm sitting...

Ha Ha!

As opposed to a bunch of grown men pontificating about the merits of different overpriced pushbikes?!

I have a 2008 Trek Madone 5.2 in carbon with a full SRAM Red groupset, also a Sabbath Silk Road in Titanium, Campag Record with Chris king hubs on Mavic rims.

It's strange really, the Trek cost a fortune (as did the Sabbath), but, I seem to want to ride the Titanium bike more and more. Whoever said they are crap really doesn't know the score. I rode 80 miles in north wales on Sunday on the Trek, I wish that I'd taken the other bike!!!

The best advice is to get measured properly, any decent shop should would be able to advise an off the peg and get it to fit. It's very rare anyone needs a custom built frame, you really would have to be disproportionate to justify the extra cost to be honest.

I'm considering another Ti frame and putting the groupset off the Trek onto it. Carbon is nice but not always the best.....

Years ago when I started cycling, a retired pro rider eyed me up and said I was a 56cm frame, these I rode for years. then, on the back of a nice bonus, went to get measured up at Mosquito Bikes. They completely adapted by saddle height, stem length etc..result is a bike that has maximium efficiency in transferring power to pedals, and is comfortable.

My advice is to get measured first, then see if any off the peg bikes fit, if not then get bespoke.

take a look at an indy fab crown jewel in either steel or titanium.i have two indy fab mountain frames and im currently saving for a road frame.they are a pleasure to behold,totally bespoke and craftmanship second to none.

look at ifbikes.com sidewayscycles.co.uk mosquitobikes.co.uk for info and pricing you wont regter it.took around ten weeks from ordering for mine to arrive.

As opposed to a bunch of grown men pontificating about the merits of different overpriced pushbikes?!

No, it's just a disgusting phrase. Frankly the context is irrelevant. I think it's the attribution of quasi-nutritional qualities to bits of metal that makes me feel queasy. Along with the rather sad thigh-rubbing glee over stupidly overpriced niche brands.

I liked the OP's barely concealed horror at the idea of spending £3k on a bike, but no-one's taken much notice of that have they. How about an Indy Fab with full Tiagra fitted, eh?

You could have a decent road bike built up for a lot less than £3K.
My custom 853 frame was about £600 (12 years ago admittedly), groupset £400, wheels £300, stem/bars/saddle/seatpost/pedals £200.
£1500 - done, and I've had it for 12 years now, so its a keeper.

I agree, in fact you can have a nice road bike for under 300 quid. Mine only cost me £28.00 plus VAT (for the tyres)
However when I stop racing I'm buying a Master just so I can pedal a few miles get off and look at it before riding another ten miles and having another look.

BWD, I came in significantly under 3K but nowhere near 28.50.... A custom bike is never going to be that cheap, especially as they're purchases driven by the heart not the head (unless one is a misshapen freak and NEEDS a funky sized bike).

Genuine question, do the builders measure you up static still because that was always the problem. It could be just me but my arm and leg reach changes when on the move.

oldgit -they'll either take some measurements, like height, leg length, arm length etc., feed them into a magic computer program and it'll spit out a "design", or they'll set you up on a adjustable 'bike. Both ways are static though.

Maybe it's worth just trying out a standard built bike at the shop, if it feels right then maybe you don't need the made-to-measure route (you'd not get custom made carbon fibre anyway...).

Think Van Nicholas can build you up a pretty decent ti bike for less than two grand. If you're looking for something cheaper then I think you've gotta consider if you want custom.

Nothing to stop you getting a decent custom frame, and kitting it out with cheap Campag/Shimano/Sram stuff and upgrading as things progress.

The Sabbaths/Sundays do look like good 'riding' bikes, and on offer at Fat Birds.

If it was me, I'd go and get properly fitted somewhere to find out exactly how close to a "standard" frame I was and take it from there.

There are a lot of designed in the UK, made in Far East micro brands who can do semi-custom for not too much extra cash.

Personally I'd be after a Ti frame and would be looking at Planet X, Sabbath, Enigma, Van Nicholas etc.

Splash the cash on some seriously good wheels.

Good finishing kit is worth buying, because then you won't want to upgrade it later (buy cheap, buy twice)

Groupset - up to you. I'm a Campag fan - managed to pick up a mint second hand complete Record groupset for £300, and it's been fantastic the last 2.5 years, so don't be afraid of s/hand bits (roadies are way bigger gear whores than MTBers).

"Frame for life" I don't really beleive in. Frame for 10 years, definitely doable though... (and at that point £3k isn't *too* excessive)

BWD, I came in significantly under 3K but nowhere near 28.50.... A custom bike is never going to be that cheap, especially as they're purchases driven by the heart not the head (unless one is a misshapen freak and NEEDS a funky sized bike).

Er, I don't think I ever implied otherwise, what amused me was the the guy who started the thread suddenly recoiled in alarm at the prospect of spending something like £3k on a bike and everyone just carried on punting out stupidly expensive suggestions as if he'd said nothing at all.

I do kind of wonder why someone who, by their own admission, just rides a road bike without any apparent interest or passion should suddenly want to splurge several thousand quid on a custom frame, but hey, each to their own...

Just as an aside - has anyone tried the Hope pro3 RS wheels? I've seen them on offer in a few places (under £300) and just wondered how they stacked up against the opposition. Can't seem to find any reviews.

I bought a planet x ti pro road bike just to get some miles in over the winter. I bought the complete bike so some of the bits are nothing special. I had no real passion for road biking, infact I had tried a few out in the past and had been underwhelmed by the experience.

I am now a bit of an addict. I do a couple of hundred miles a week on it, happily doing 100 miles at a time. I would do more but I like to go out on the mtb too! It feels amazing, fast yet comfortable. I got measured up first to make sure it would fit.

Although different people like different things, it is hard to imagine anyone thinking it feels crap to ride.

I let my mate have a go. He could not understand how it could feel so good, he just kept shaking his head and smiling!

[url= http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php?id=tech/2009/reviews/boardman_team_carbon09 ]New Boardman carbon bike[/url]
It's less than a grand and Halfords do put money into the GB team.
If you want to spend more money I would recommend a Giant up to the price you can afford, if you want less of a carbon footprint (i.e. something made in Europe at least) and non-rattly Shimano shifters (they all do eventually) then something from the Time range with Campagnolo.
Of course other brands are available.
Take the peak off your helmet when you ride on the road, it helps visually when you're down on the bars and do not refer to it as the darkside. It is cycling just like mountain biking is.

Just had a day away from this post and I'm a bit overwhelmed by the response to be honest.

BadlyWiredDog, I'm not sure what part of my post gave you this idea:

I do kind of wonder why someone who, by their own admission, just rides a road bike without any apparent interest or passion should suddenly want to splurge several thousand quid on a custom frame, but hey, each to their own...

I am a cyclist. I ride on the road on a £400 Trek and I ride off-road on a £2700 Whyte or a fuly rigid Bianchi with carbon forks. I have always argued with friends - who ride 4 figure road bikes - that the benefit on spending lots of money on road bikes is much less than off-road, where suspension, disc brakes etc etc can really make a big difference.

I love riding my "cheap" road bike as much as I love riding off-road on my expensive bikes. There is [b]no [/b]lack or passion or interest in riding. I simply don't follow or have a passion for the road "scene" in the same way I do with MTBing. I used to watch the TDF as a kid on Channel 4 with Phil Liggitt, but lost interest when (a) it lost the teatime slot (b) it seemed to be all news about drug-taking. I have never read road bike mags which is the reason I know nothing about the kit. I'm very relucant to get into that because I have spent [i]way [/i]too much on MTB mags over the past 20 years.

Having now decided to see if an "expensive" bike will give me even more riding pleasure I just wondered where to start. Since Brian Rourke are 10 miles away that is probably the best bet.

Thanks for the advice

...and why should I take the peak of my helmet? It never gets in the way so I assume this is just another fashion thing 😀

Interesting to read opinions on frame material.

I'm relatively new to road riding, and currently riding a an aero-ish alu frame with carbon fork, full ultegra and ksyrium wheels.

Without wanting to sound like a fud, I think I put down a decent amount of power - I climb well and spend most of my rides in a big gear (whether this is good technique or not I don't know). The guys I ride with from time to time are all far more experienced than me, one or two are club members, have high-end bikes etc etc, but I'm quite a bit faster than any of them, regardless of distance (sorry, that does make me sound like a fud. But it's true!)

I think my next major bike purchase is likely to be a new road frame, but I can't decide on material. I like steel for mtb, never tried Ti, but fancy carbon for the road, based on the loose idea that I'd get most out of it power-transfer-wise. Is this a reasonable assumption to make?

If I had more time, I reckon I'd get more into road riding and join a club, but realistically I don't have enough regular time. Would my choice of frame material make any noticeable difference? I don't have enough spare cash to spend 2k on a carbon frame only to discover the main benefit is "it looks nice".

Any opinions welcome!

If the peak doesn't get in your way then don't take it off.
It isn't a fashion thing. When I say 'visually', I don't mean how you look but what you can actually see.
I just found that when I was down on the drops I had to crane my neck to see under the peak for all round vision. Particularily into the distance.
There are no 'drops' on mtb bars so same positioning and neck stretching doesn't occur.
I have also noticed that more (but not all) users of helmets with peaks get neck ache after longer road rides.
I did too until I took my peak off for road riding. Now I have splashed out and have two helmets.
It was cheaper than seeing a neck specialist.
If you watch some of the 'classics', then you will see many pros still wear a cap under their helmets to keep the crud out of their eyes. But they have a cap rather than a peak so that they can flip the peak to the 'up' position when they're on the drops and want to be able to have a full field of vision.
Here's an example of both:
[img] [/img]
Robbie McEwen (Katusha) in the Gent-Wevelgem escape. 8 April 2009

Have a look at Scapin at Veloce Bikes (think they're in Skipton)

2tyred - Good for you, Try a run out with a local club, if the pace is too slow (and it probably will be if you are reasonably fit) then go on the British Cycling website and find the rated clubs in your area (results based) and head out with them and then you will find out what fast is.

Frame - Pick up a Cervelo RS or R3, pound for pound they are a great frame, no soul and a fairly unresponsive but stiff and light. TBH, the biggest improvements you can make are in your legs and lungs so i'd spend the money on a Powertap.

The geezer in the background doesn't even know how to use sunnies, not sure I'd take his advice on helmets 😉

I wouldn't bother with a bespoke road bike again.

Back in the day I got a 653 chorus equiped custom build and it made my back hurt like a bitch.

Borrowed a stock Giant TCR off a guy in a LBS and it fit like a glove!

Bought a replacement last year (TCR 2). Carbon, Ultegra (changed the c/set for a compact though).

Go to a decent shop who know how to set you up and you are there. Complete bikes at the moment are much better deals.

Worked for me.

Ti or carbon is a personal choice.... both feel different. Ti will always appeal as it just looks great all the time, but as with anything it is down to the maker and the rider as to whether it is right. But try some off the peg carbon bikes such as Giant Defy advanced/Trek Madone (if you want a sportif bike) or Giant TCR/Trek Madone Pro (if you want a racy bike) as these are generally easily available from a lot of shops to demo. This will give you an idea of geometry. If one suits then you could get a frame made to the same geometry from Ti or 953 steel if that is what you want, or build a custom spec on one of those frames. I was recently told by a road racing enthusiast to steer clear of Dura Ace unless you are racing..... Ultegra was built to show how well Shimano can work, Dura Ace was built to show how light Shimano can be. As for wheels you can never go wrong with Mavic, Easton or Reynolds.