Everyone likes a bike build thread, right?
Did my first proper-ish season of TT last year on my Planet X Stealth (with Zipp Vuka Alu bars and mechanical shifting.) Here she is in action...
This build is to put something together that's a bit slippier now I've got a decent position sorted. Based around an eBay Cervelo P2C and some new Pro Missile Evo bars and stem. I'm going to try for internal Di2 as well which may involve a fair bit of dremelling and quite a lot of swearing.
Started last night with a couple of hours with a tape measure and a big bag of bolts and carbon bits. This is it so far...
Next step is to take it all apart again (cables are all threaded through the bars and risers) and figure out what to do with this lot...
Rotor crankset, Power2Max power meter and Adamo saddle will come from the PX. Tempted to get some TriRig brakes but may be Ultegra for now. Wheels will be Zipp 404/808 and my Corima disc. It may end up 10 speed for convenience too.
Not got much spare time to work on it so it'll probably take me a few weeks to finish. No instant gratification on this thread 🙂
Hmmmmm....tri rig brakes, Cervelo, Di2. Budget ye reckon 😆 Tektro used to make a centre pull 'aero' brake if you really are thinking about budget.
Well it's budget compared to some of the things you see wheeled out at your typical weekday evening club time trial 😉
I'll probably stick with the Ultegra brakes that I have for now and then get some proper advice from someone in the know in a few months time.
TBH Di2 is a bit of an indulgence. Though I have hated the mechanical shifting on the PX. Shifting is awful even with Nokon cable and it was always a compromise. Really distracting to be messing around trying to get the right gear when racing. And I should be able to hide pretty much all the Di2 wiring inside the bars and frame.
Got to agree with YoKaiser, I would not call this budget 😆
Oh well, each to their own. Personally I race on 10sp mechanical and ally frames because I think it's all about the legs so focus on that instead.
Would love a Cervelo S3 mind, think they're so pretty.
What the others said. Di2 and zipps. That's a budget build i would love
TBF he didn't specify what kind of budget.
Not a sport for the lower-earning cyclist if low budget was implied though!
A £600 handlebar is hardly budget either 😆
Still, nice build. Just anything but budget.
is your oil pan made of paw-celain?
A £600 handlebar is hardly budget
There's the 200 quid stem to go with it too and the 50 quid riser kit 😳
Is all relative though.
your oil pan made of paw-celain?
🙂
Not a sport for the lower-earning cyclist if low budget was implied though
No different to MTB. You can find something to fit pretty much any budget.
I opened this thread with interest expecting a super stealthy machine for under a grand...
... because I think it's all about the legs so focus on that instead.
Too true. It puts it into perspective when you see guys riding in the road bike category beating 95% of those on TT bikes. The bike is only a small part of the battle. I can appreciate the marginal gains in TTing though.
Curious what a mid-price build would look like, let alone a blingy one!
Do they have separate cats for road and TT bikes in TT events then? Might consider having a go at one if so.
Budget lol
Still, no excuses when you turn up at the start. Better be one of the quicker guys too!
I keep looking at p2 105 on sale...
Considering the national 10 mile champagne rides a frame off ebay and a total build of under a grand I'd say budget is about £750, but then again it's all relative.
For a budget tt build I was hoping for obree style brazing and steel tubes, not a pile of dura ace boxes......
Do they have separate cats for road and TT bikes in TT events then? Might consider having a go at one if so.
They'll sometimes offer a prize for fastest road bike. Pretty informal really. Plenty of people ride road bikes though. Fit some clip-on tri-bars if you want to take it semi-seriously. No reason not to have a go.
You can find something to fit pretty much any budget.
Absolutely. I bought a lovely steel columbus aero Shorter from the Leo Road Club with Zipp 440s all for £400. I added £50 of second hand HED carbon bars and a raised stem for a little more comfort.
It's nine speed. It rides beautifully.
[img]
?oh=295b8435a7ceb2a43cf997d9675847f9&oe=572E2A81[/img]
Seeing as the budget part has already been questioned I'll point out that your cupboard doors don't look very level.
I was going to mention that but thought the OP was getting a bit of a hammering. 😆
After returning to TT's last summer after a 34 year break , I thought I would build a bike for the job. N+ lots though means mine is budget!
Frame is a Columbus Brain tubed thing I built a few years ago for bugger all. I then cracked the seat tube almost completely through. A 15 quid seat pin from China reaches the bottle bosses and is now drilled and tapped which along with the seat clamp holds it tight enough. Wheels are oldy but goodies from the depths of the garage. Front is ancient Campag record with Mavic FB rim. Rear is Campag Record, 9 speed era on a worn Open Pro Sup. 10 speed cassette as I did run it with complete Veloce before it broke. Nattering in the LBS found me some deep 90's style bull horns with near new carbon Profile TT extensions. 9 speed Ultegra, I think, bar end shifters and Cane Creek bar end brake levers plus a nice Ritchey stem. 30 quid. Add 1 cable inner at £1.50 and a roll of Benotto copy tape from China.
Mechs are Suntour ARX that came from my 1983 Raleigh. Chainset is a champagne era 105 with god knows what BB.
God knows how it will go but its better than my Pickenflick for TTs and the outlay has been sub 50 quid.
It puts it into perspective when you see guys riding in the road bike category beating 95% of those on TT bikes
Doesn't happen at open events, but it happens to a certain extent at some of our club events, but the riders that get close are elite road racers (often with tri bars) and a pro world cup xc racer 🙂
Curious what a mid-price build would look like, let alone a blingy one!
For low budget see my first build thread [url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/new-stealth-tt-build ]here[/url]. That was under a grand I think.
I was going to mention that but thought the OP was getting a bit of a hammering.
Not as bad as I was expecting 😉 Those bloody cupboards!
I can appreciate the marginal gains in TTing though.
I do need to do some work as I'm currently pretty much bang on the "poor" line here at the moment...
I know of some people who aren't even on the chart their CdA is so low. Aim is to get to "average" this year.
Budget lol
😉
Re budget, it really is all relative. I'm often riding against guys on 5 grand Shiv frames.
Oh well, each to their own. Personally I race on 10sp mechanical and ally frames because I think it's all about the legs so focus on that instead.
Sorry I missed this comment first time around. Good for you, but I don't really get it. Do you race time trials on a road bike? Why not a shopping bike with a basket on the front if it's all about the legs? Are you reasonably flat backed? Do you ride on the drops? All these things are concessions to aerodynamics.
TBH I agree that it would be nice if it was all about the legs. I'm not really one to spend huge amounts of time pouring over marginal gains and analysing data from position tweaks. But aero is now a big part of the sport. And it's more about not putting myself at a big disadvantage to those I race against rather than trying to find some big advantage... so that it is then more about the legs.
Anyway probably straying off topic of a build thread!
Considering the national 10 mile champagne rides a frame off ebay and a total build of under a grand I'd say budget is about £750, but then again it's all relative.
That and the fact that he's had a few grands worth of aero testing by his coach, one of the best in the business
Feels like I've been tricked into watching someone wave their willy.
Yes indeed. You try sourcing the parts on that bike for "under a grand" on the second hand market... some people have been very generous with their spares!
And yes, no surprise that the people at the very sharp end are usually sponsored by companies like D2Z and Aerocoach.
Feels like I've been tricked into watching someone wave their willy.
Hmm sorry, not the intention!
Let's not get hung up on whether his build was budget or not, focus on what's really important.
OP how did the season go; what times did you put down and were you happy?
Sorry OP I was being a bit cheeky.
My thought process is based upon the lines that if you spend the time spent earning the money for a super bike, shopping for it and assembling it, but use it for hard, focussed training, you'll be quicker on the course.
I do get a bit irritated by all the bling on the start line of races as I think its all a bit over the top. Personally I think racing should be one design, and a cheap design at that so then everyone could compete on an equal footing.
When I race on £1k bikes I like to think I'm doing my bit, but then I'm a poor deluded fool.
Preface this by saying I was a runner and recreational mtb rider until injury put a stop to running and I had a year off from any sport when first kid arrived. Got the road bike out to get some fitness back and entered a few local time trials just to give it some purpose. So last year was my first properish season.
Went ok. Didn't race as much as I'd like to have done, but learnt loads. Got faster all year and ended up being in the 21's on honest courses and in the 20's on the fast ones. A 20:40 on a foul day on F11/10 was the quickest. Got more power and a better position now so aim this year is to finish consistently in the 20's and dip under 20 on a fast course (though staying fairly local and not going to drive the length of the country in search of fast courses!) Would like to do more 25's too.
Aw, shame. Looking at that graph, as I'm 194cm and 85+Kg, it's pointless trying to get good at TT however budget I go. I'm stuck with a life of single track and bike packing.........
Agree with the budget thing, as I'm struggling with the justification of the purchase of a reduced price Infocrank to fit to my road bike with clip-ons to have a bash at TT'ing.
I'm inspired by the OP's last para though as that's exactly what I am starting this year, having spent the last few weeks turbo training up to 40mins in the aero position to get used to it and yesterday working out my speculative 40k pace I can see how worryingly addictive it is!
Personally I think racing should be one design, and a cheap design at that so then everyone could compete on an equal footing.
Is an interesting idea, really it's mostly aero testing for position where the gains are made. You'd need some limit on tunnel or track test time really!
working out my speculative 40k pace I can see how worryingly addictive it is!
Kryton, have you had a play with this...
http://www.cyclingpowerlab.com/PowerSpeedScenarios.aspx
Part of the reason for some of the new kit is plugging in the numbers and seeing the time gap between "average" and "poor" CdA 😕
Feels like I've been tricked into watching someone wave their willy.
this
Nice looking build! Do the Di2 parts you have not dictate whether it will be 10 or 11 speed? My plan for budget TT bike this summer is to stick some pursuit bars and a front brake on my track bike....
Oh FFS wish I'd not bothered! Thought it might be interesting as it's a bit different for STW and will have some fiddly frame mods maybe.
Re 10 speed, spacing is the same as 11 speed so it's just the limit screw.
Blobby they might have been happy if you'd drilled the Planet X to ****, made some balsa wood TT bars on your lathe and posted a pic of the whole thing next to your wood burner with your Labrador curled up by the BB. 😀
that would have been A shite build... cliché on a budget
Don't listen to them Mr Blobby, I love stuff like this. And for all those banging on about the current 10 national champ, how much did all his time in the wind tunnel cost if he'd had to pay for it??
Just wondering why you went for the cevelo and not the px? Position related?
Anyone interested in time trials shouldn't be put off by the perception that you need to buy expensive kit to be competitive.
You can probably get 90+% of the performance of a superbike with a genuinely budget build. Get a frame that lets you get your position right, and with cheap aero bars, a skinsuit and an aero helmet, you're most of the way there. Power meters, electronic shifting and integrated bars are all nice, but not necessary to get started. In fact, if you look at pictures from TTs, you'll see lots of people wasting very fancy kit because they are sitting up in the wind like a sack of tatties.
The bike that started the thread looks good, and good luck to the OP this season, but a budget build it is not!
I do like the bike btw, please keep posting pics and progress. As you say budget is relative. I've always fancied TT'ing I have the bike (mostly) but used it for tri.
As I have just bought a second hand TT frame set, I was expecting to see a bike built with good parts that had been bought for a steal. Read first four posts and stopped...
My build will probably be under a grand in the end.
Isaac Joule Aerotic Pro carbon F &F, with new Ultegra BB - £165v
Suppose it all,relative to the £10k rigs getting wheeled out.
The thread title: A bike build; money no object, would have avoided all this. 😆
Don't let us spoil your fun OP, it'll be a lovely bike, and yes crazily it wont be the trickest bike on the start line by a long way.
Hitting 20-21min 10's means you've earned the right to chase those last few seconds in my book.
I'm just jealous, my budget would be a few hundred and a packet of haribo
OP - serious question...how could you ever consider a bike with one of the most expensive groupsets out there a 'budget build'
No issues with you spending that kind of cash, and with times like you have its obviously going to be going to good use, but you have to admit the thread tite is mildly ridiculous!
Not a ttist, but think the bikes look cool. Looking forward to seeing the final build.
Out of interest can I ask how much the frame cost...assume its not a knock off copy?
My budget was 50 quid for an aero wheel off ebay, disk covers for the rear (actually, I also bought a standard rear wheel at some point, but needed that as a spare anyway) and a couple of narrow tyres. I thought I was splashing out a bit!
21's on honest courses and in the 20's on the fast ones.
****'in aye. Way to go. End of thread.
Anyone else still carping on about whether the bike was budget or not needs to get a sense of perspective and put a time down themsevles or disclose their own time.
What about 25s? I'm guessing aiming for sub 55 every day of the week right?
Good work, blobby.
If you can, do.
This was my budget build-
Budget obviously including the £240 skinsuit, £800 spent on wheels and tubs, but you know I saved some £ by buying a 2nd hand PX frameset and some Korean Q rings.
Had I continued I wanted to buy a boardman frameset or ICAN TT frameset. Unfortunately my dry L5/S1 meant I simply couldn't. So go for it while you can, far better to regret the things you did than didn't do.
Smash it.
thread title: A bike build; money no object, would have avoided all this.
🙂 If it was money no object I'd have just gone down my lbs and spunked ten grand on a shiv or trinity!
Out of interest can I ask how much the frame cost...assume its not a knock off copy?
Not a knock off. 450 quid off eBay. It is quite old but was ahead of its time when it came out and still tests very well.
And as for the dura ace, well that's just the shifters and they don't do the single button in ultegra. The mechs are all ultegra.
What about 25s? I'm guessing aiming for sub 55 every day of the week right?
Only ever done one and that was a 56 on a fairly tough course and very conservatively paced. So yes, I'd expect to be sub 55. Got a few planned for this year.
Shedbrewed, yours looks a lot like my Stealth that this bike is replacing. You have that same double bend in the shift cable out the end of the poles to the down tube stops. How's the shifting? Mine was always really stiff.
"Shedbrewed, yours looks a lot like my Stealth that this bike is replacing. You have that same double bend in the shift cable out the end of the poles to the down tube stops. How's the shifting? Mine was always really stiff."
Bringing the cables out the end of the poles is a hiding to nothing.
cables need to come out from the holes about mid way along the extensions designed for the purpose (said as i look up on the wall at my stealth with its perfect shifting)
Many extensions don't have holes there, mine don't. I could drill the poles or run the cables taped along the bars I guess.
Got di2 on one of the road bikes though and think it's superb. Think it'll work well on the TT bike and very little disruption to position for shifting too.
How about this for budget? An estimate of CDA for less than £80. I use a powercal heart rate monitor that estimates power. For TT efforts it isn't bad either. When run on short circuits I use Golden Cheetah's aerolab to estimate CDA.
I was as surprised as anyone to see the power curve match up with elevation power and give ANY estimate at all! But it does just fine. Run it with the trike too.
Now that is budget 😉
I've just remembered, when I was a kid I built some tri bars out of a sun lounger (alu tubing) and a cut up pair of shin pads. Now that's budget!
Blimey if you can get any reasonable data from that I'd be quite surprised! My PowerCal isn't anywhere near sensitive enough. Do need to find some time to play around with Aerolab though.
When I were a kid I made a disc wheel out of a dustbin lid. Had a great rumble to it. Now that's budget!
Not sure if budget has been mentioned yet but that John Lewis table cover thingy wasn't cheap either! 😉
Going full aero-weenie is actually really interesting and not necessarily related to budget or marketing hype.... or some times even logic. With my limited experience of far better riders than myself, most do a massive amount of testing so I'd budget for that for sure.
If you look at the massive Venge VIAS thread on WW then Spec have some quite interesting info from their tests. As an example, one of the most significant (even more than the VIAS frame vs bog standard road frame) aero gains was switching from BOA based shoes to laces. Sure you'll probably have overshoes which reduces the difference a touch but laces are still where its at and even many supposedly aero covers test worse than shoes alone. I can see myself getting very tied up with all this and being very poor if I ever got in to TT's "proper". When in doubt, what would Bradders do... yeah do that 🙂
I follow MrB on Strava and believe me when I say his legs are doing just fine so chill out and enjoy the build thread yeah? 😀
Were you on the size limit of that stealth frame MrBlobby? I'm looking to get a second hand stealth or exocet, but I'm a hair under 6' and been thinking a large was in order. If I could look at medium as well that would be good - there's a nice one on ebay atm, for example.
Thanks crosshair, I thought you'd managed to escape the forum 🙂
Garry, decided to go for the medium stealth as it was my first TT frame and I wanted as much opportunity to play with position as possible. The Zipp Vuka Alu has a huge range of fit, I do have quite a long stem, am near the limit of pole length, and have about 25mm of riser under the poles. I've not looked at the geo for a while but I think I'd have been fine with the large as it happens as the stealth is fairly long and low.
Just wondering why you went for the cevelo and not the px? Position related?
Sorry flange, missed this. PX is what I rode last season. Not sure I understand the question. Went for the Cervelo really as it seemed the best compromise on good aero performance and second hand availability and price. Oh and that I could make the geometry work too.
Not sure if budget has been mentioned yet but that John Lewis table cover thingy wasn't cheap either!
Thanks, I shall be having a word with Mrs Blobby about her spending habits!
You need a good circular route of a few miles, about five laps and a decent but not maximal effort. Then air density from weatherPro and a guess at tyre resistance. Add 50% for the trike. Probably not to be compared with other power meters, but ok to look at changes in position.
Thanks TiRed. I've read up quite a bit about AeroLab and keep meaning to give it a go. Quite a few threads on it over at the time trialling forum (yes there are other forums!) with some quite varying views. Sounds hugely time consuming to get decent results... but then when you put potential gains in terms of watts it seems a lot more reasonable.
Re the actual build... it's mostly been more measuring and thinking. Trying to work out how best to cable the bars and where to hide junction boxes so it won't be a complete arse when I need to adjust something. Most likely adjustment is moving the poles fore and aft and adding/removing riser blocks. The wires run through the middle of the risers so somehow needs to be easily detachable. I just about have a plan!
A couple of hours of messing about this evening trying to cable up the bar assembly. Plan was to have a junction box in the end of each pole so that I could easily detach from the cable that comes up through the riser if I needed to change the spacer stack or shuffle the poles about. Just couldn't make it all fit, not enough room for all the loose cable, mainly at the ends of the basebar.
A bit annoying that the shifters all have a fixed length of cable wired in and not just a socket for your own length cable. Would make the job a lot easier as the supplied lengths are just not convenient. I guess I could get out the soldering iron and splice some cables to get the right length 😕
I'll have another bash at it tomorrow. I think the only place I'm going to be able to stick the junction boxes are in the poles ahead of the bolts.
Anyone got any neat ideas for securely mounting the battery and charger junction inside the frame? I could just duck tape it, but I was thinking I might be able to shape a block of modelling foam to match the inside of the seat tube and mount it in that.
Suspend it by a thread then squirt a bit of expanding foam in there?
Thanks for the reply chap - I just wondered why you switched from the PX but assuming the cervelo is more aero.
Regarding junction box, I found the wires were stiff enough that they just help the box in place without needing any support. Mind you, my bike makes such a god awful racket anyway that I probably can't hear it flailing about inside the downtube. Battery - I bought one of the bbb seat post things but that's not gonna work on an aero post.
Thanks for the reply chap - I just wondered why you switched from the PX but assuming the cervelo is more aero.
Aero mostly. Frame that apparently tests well. Clean routing too and not too much of a hack for Di2. And the geometry fits.
Suspend it by a thread then squirt a bit of expanding foam in there?
May do that, but I want to be able to get the foam block out easily too. Wondered if I could somehow line it with cling film or a freezer bag, squirt down some non-sticky foam, let it set in the bag to the shape of the frame, then pull it out?
Failing that I may just wrap it in some big bubble wrap and shove it in.
Two bags, one small one with the battery in it (or wrap it in cling flim), then a larger bag, drop the whole thing down the seat tube fill the gap between the two bags with foam. Take it out, trim to size.
Thanks, I think that's what I'll do. Trip down b&q later for some expanding foam.
New bottom bracket has arrived. Also now got the di2 battery and charger. Think that's all I need now.
Also picked up a Dremel style rotary tool to hack at the frame with 🙂 Going to do a hole in the top tube for the di2 wire from the bars and enlarge the hole in the seat tube for the front mech wire. I'm tempted to make a small exit hole at the back of the base bar as seen on TriRig's site ([url= http://www.tririg.com/articles.php?id=2014_07_Andy_Potts_Custom_Kestrel_4000 ]here[/url]) which would be cleaner than the current exit through a hole under the stem.
Nice looking build! Do the Di2 parts you have not dictate whether it will be 10 or 11 speed? My plan for budget TT bike this summer is to stick some pursuit bars and a front brake on my track bike....
Tempted by this idea, and the fact that I know MrB tests almost past my new house!
To keep things super budget and avoid the temptation to spend money I was thinking of picking up a track bike, I've already got some cheap clip-ons.
For sizing, what sort of reach does the frame need relative to a road bike? I noticed some Tri/TT bikes only come in small and large so I'm guessing it's not that important and most of it's done by adjusting the saddle and bars? So a ~54cm track bike. I normally ride a 56cm Cannondale (so at he big end of 56cm frames, and I'm 6ft with fairly average proportions).
[quote="geetee1972"]Anyone else still carping on about whether the bike was budget or not needs to get a sense of perspective and put a time down themsevles or disclose their own time.Erm, ok. 21:08 for a 10 and 53:05 for a 25, both on a normal road bike, also, both about 25 years ago 😳 Haven't done a "standard" distance TT since the early 90's. Plenty of non-standard ones. Which, according the RTTC, don't count 😉
And my "still in progress, it has been for four years (maybe 5?), i might actually get to set up the position this year" budget TT build is essentially stuff that's been retrieved from the bin. Stuff that doesn't actually work too well or isn't compatible with anything i use anymore. It'll be an 8/9/10 mash up. It'll probably have to be friction shifting and the brakes rub if i turn the bars too much. 😕
The actual cash spend so far is sub £50 (a pair of tri bar extensions). I reckon the depreciation on the bits i've had lying around is probably another £25........ No idea what it'd cost to build up new, some of the bits has been out of production for 10+ years!
Owned.
Anyone else still carping on about whether the bike was budget or not needs to get a sense of perspective and put a time down themsevles or disclose their own time.
Don't really understand why anyone would need a qualifying time to post a comment...
The word budget in the opening may not have helped but still a good thread
TT wouldn't exist as a sport if everyone who'd ridden slower than the fastest ever road bike time wasn't allowed an aerobike
I'd say that sub 21 minutes for 10 miles seems to be the sort of pace that puts you in the mix where no one should be s****ing that you've got an aero bike
I think it took me 28 minutes on knobbly tired MTB. Although I could tuck in quite well. Quite a hilly course with a few junctions that needed care. The record at the time was around 24 mins for that course
Owned.
? Not sure I understand that comment.
Anyway some amusing attitudes 😕
It's all just indulging a hobby. If you like doing time trials and you want a time trial bike then go get one. If you're a 25 minute man and want to drop £10k on an off the peg superbike then so what. I rather like it, you get a right mix of people and bikes at local time trials.
I guess it's the same sort of attitude that pokes fun at the middle aged IT contractor who turns up at a trail centre with a carbon everything Santa Cruz on the roof.
Anyway build comments only from me from now on 🙂
I plan on TT'ing with my track bike this year too. I've got a set of clip on bars - going to get a cheap deep section front wheel and a Raltech cover for the rear. Then play about with position until i get something half decent.
The only worry is that the ideal gear for a decent time is 53/11. Fixed. ***k my old boots...
umop3pisdn or however you spell it appears to be the man to talk to on here about fixed tt'ing.
It's all just indulging a hobby
It certainly is - and there is nothing wrong with that.
Have you seen how much mountain bikers spend? 😯
To be honest - compared to anything involving an engine, cycling is a 'relatively' cheap hobby!
Raltech covers are very good. General consensus seems to be that if on a budget get the best front wheel you can afford and get a cover for the back.
There's a guy who races fixed in our club, bloody impressive stuff. Must be (even more) tortuous on windy lumpy courses. I'm tempted to go single ring at the front, but going to stick with a double for now as the bike is for training and racing. Can't imagine going single speed fixed (even with the big aero win!)
Last ride on the PX Stealth today, she's being broken for parts, some for the new build and some for the turbo bike (worked out I can fairly easily convert the turbo bike between road and time trial geometries so I don't need to put the new bike on the turbo.) She's taught me a lot but it's time to move on 🙂
I have a Cervelo P2 with 80 / 101 PX wheels up for sale at eh moment. 54cm.
£1200 ONO, if anyone is interested, reply or drop me an email...
A medium PX Stealth and some PX 50/50 tubs for sale here too 😉
Looks like (an odd sort of) fun, looking forward to updates. I guess all sports involve doing odd things within sometimes arbitrary rules to gain advantage. A bloke came past me in town last night feet first at knee height on a partially faired recumbent tadpole trike, I'd bet he'd go faster than you for the same effort but that's not the point is it.
Was it TiRed? If the rules didn't forbid it they'd probably be racing the Tour on recumbents!
Looks like (an odd sort of) fun,
Is a bit odd really. I just started it to give the riding a bit of purpose when getting back into it after my boy was born. It's not too time consuming to train for and it's pretty convenient to compete in. Most club races are midweek evenings, and at an open you've got an allocated start time, and you're not away for a whole day at the weekends. So sort of fits in with family stuff.
Reckon I'll probably do it for another year or two and move on to something else when I've a bit more time (another reason for the relatively sensible budget.) Though chasing seconds is curiously addictive.
Build progressing with a tear down of the PX now... I bet there's something I've forgotten to measure! 🙂
To make fans of really budget bikes happy here is my old very budget tt bike;
cheap ribble frame, tiagra nine speed running gear and brakes, second hand disc and normally a chinese ebay 50m carbon front wheel, got me under the hour for 25 with not enough training and round the Duo Normand a couple of times with the mrs (she was on a carbon px stealth with carbon disc, so you can see who earns in our house). Not nearly as nice (or as fast) as the OP's - enjoying reading about the build. Got the ribble out a few months ago and have now lent it to a junior at my club for the foreseeable future.
Riding a ten on a fixed was one of the most horrible tt's I ever tried 🙂
Oh blimey, you've just reminded me of my first TT build that I'd completely forgotten about. I'd tried to turn my turbo mule into a dedicated TT bike when I got fed up swapping the setup on road bike around. This was my 25 year old Pug with TT bars and a PowerTap wheel with Aerojacket cover. It really was budget. Weighed a tonne. Rode like an absolute dog. Did one race on it before ordering the Planet X.






