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Apologies if this posts a bit unspecific(first time posting)
But I've had a 2017 boardman cx comp for nearly a year now and bar changing brakes to spyre trp rd/hy(can't recommend them enough overmechanical) I'm completely happy with the bike but wanted lower gearsand converted its sora 9 speed to high range with an unbranded roadlink and sunrace 11-40t casette.
Have ordered a mech hanger and hanger allignment tool(wolftooth hat(hanger allignment tool) to check yhd hanger and mech allignment.
Problems
1.rd shifts badly in 9-5 gears even tweaking the barrel adjuster and limiters no use also clicks a bit in lower gears like a misshift but doesn't.
2. Front mech keeps getting chain rub and not adjusting up well(could be doing it badly though)
3.chain is half a link too short to preserve shifting,and it's on its original jagwire cables.
I do have some experience but mostly a amateur when it comes to gravel/cx
Here's my question: could the rough shifting be the hodge bodge of road and mtb parts or the old mech cables, and would 1×(and is clutch type derailier that important?) be a fix to the above?
>it’s on its original jagwire cables
there's your key. Change your cables first
What rear mech are you running? The angle of the parallelogram on road and MTB mechs if different, to account for different cassette profiles. I believe 9 speed MTB mechs work with 9 speed shifters (Shimano).
Have you adjusted the "B" screw so that the top jockey clears the cassette sprockets?
As you suggest it could be a combination of all of the above, but removing and cleaning the cables may provide some relief, or just fitting new inners & outers.
You could also stick all the original stuff back on and see if its still a problem?
Forgot to mention that... B screw all the way in(and backup 25mm screw as spare...).
The original sora long cage road mech needs hanger allignment to(took a small what from a drop recently..)
I thought that might be the response the cable housing is likely to be not correct considering the mod then if I understand right.
And its not a approved shift ramp design on the casette.. But could try dropping a few links in the chain and running the old kit...
Sounds like cables first though..
Cheers for the help I will get down to trying those things..
What is the chainline? If you sight along the fifth sprocket is it aiming at the centreline of the crankset, is between the two rings if it is a double.
If you manually pull the cable does the chain shift well up the cassette?
Chainline is fine and shifts OK on a turbo trainer without contact to the roller.. But under any load and goes rough.. I thoight(and really should) do the cables but hadn't thought about the effect of the chain line with the mech lowering by 2cm..
new cassette / old chain per chance ?
New chain, new casette, road link and chainrings removed cleaned and refitted..
Just change the outer cable where it bends round to the RD, you'll be amazed at the amount of rust and crud that has collected there and is inhibiting the gearchanges. It needs doing every six months on a bike that gets wet a lot.
Gets used in the great British summer/winter.. And well 7 days a week every week every year..
I actually happen to some outers(is there a difference between gear and brake outers... I have brake outers..)..
I can whip an outer on it hopefully by the end of the week..
Update
Cleaned frame, realigned Rd hanger, clean and lube Rd, chain and new rear section of cable and clean cable guide at bb and its back to normal once again
Cheers for the help