[Closed] 8000 miles - worn chainring?

The outer one is definitely worn out. You'd get more life out of it by putting the old chain back on though.

Jesus, Road stuff lasts forever doesn’t it! 8k miles is a decade of riding for me, I can wear chains in 300 miles and cassettes in 600, chainrings about the same.

THe outer ring is shark-finned to ****, time for the bin. TBF, I've worn out chainrings in less than half that mileage but I don't clean my drivetrain often/at all.

I prefer the older style 5 bolt chainsets as you can usually pick up sets of rings for twenty quid or less on ebay. These new four arm ones cost near enough the same as a whole new chainset.

My road stuff certainly lasts longer then my MTB stuff but still not long enough. 8k for a chainset isn't great. Look like I'll be ordering a new chainring.

I will swap the chainring rather than run the old chain as the cassette is in good nick currently.

8k for a chainset isn't great. Look like I'll be ordering a new chainring.

really? 8 thousand miles!! Thats a huge amount of milage, even on a road bike is it not?

get yer wallet out 8)

8000 miles is plenty.

160 miles a week is a fair bit really, I’d be quite happy with that lifespan myself.

.75 wear I'd be chamging the cassette too

It’s probably way past .75 wear and back round again

Doesn't look too bad to me.
[img] [/img]

I think your chain checker is worn

8000miles is OK but not too brilliant. I usually check chainring wear by putting a new chain on and trying to pull the chain off the chainring at the 3 o’clock position. Any significant gap and it’s tine for a new chainring

I wouldn't be changing anything, put the old chain on it and you'll probably get the same distance again out of it!

I stopped measuring my chain a long time back, I think it's a false economy.

put the old chain on it and you'll probably get the same distance again out of it!

my advice also, there comes a point at which changing to a new chain on a very worn chain ring just wont work anymore.

Alternatively, he might end up faceplanting in heavy traffic (the chainring is skipping under load, see his original post). I speak from experience.

put the old chain on it and you'll probably get the same distance again out of it!

It’ll be shit. Something won’t work perfectly and it’ll be annoying. Big and little chainring will have uneven wear, there’ll be uneven wear across the sprocket. Just change the lot 🙂

Thanks for all the comments. I;ve ordered a new ring .

I just hoped it would last longer. 6 months for a chainring isn't ideal...

It’s not the 6 months that’s killed it, it’s the 8000 miles. If you do lots of miles in anything you’ll wear out more parts. It’s not rocket science.

Golf clubs last ages, though.

Never mind the chainring, your cranks are scuffed and so also need replacing! Road bikes should look flawless at all times 😉

[I]Alternatively, he might end up faceplanting in heavy traffic (the chainring is skipping under load, see his original post). I speak from experience. [/I]

It probably won't skip with the old chain that has already stretched to match the chainring wear.

Alternatively use the inner ring that actually has teeth left on it rather than just some serrations and spin at a higher cadence 🙂

I just hoped it would last longer. 6 months for a chainring isn't ideal...

Make yer mind up it was 11 months old on post 1 . But time is irrelevant . Milage kills.

I didn't wear my Ultegra ring out after 9.5k miles but that was only 4.5 months. Time vs distance.

#ultegrahumblebrag

Skipping probably on the cassette, I reckon. I don't think I've ever had a big ring slip, and I've done a fair bit more than 8,000 miles in the decade I've had my road kit.

However it's really easy to end up with a slipping cassette when you change your chain.

6 months?! My chainrings on my DA chainset are getting on for 4 years old.

Mind, I'd be surprised if there's more than about 300 miles of summer miles in them...

Just getting back into cycling after many a year out of the scene and managed to blag my younger brothers old Kona off him to make a start on. I'm no mechanic however the gears seem setup fine but the chain keeps slipping in certain cogs at the back (9 speed).
Reading through a few posts on here I'm a little confused. Is it best just to replace a chain? Or as its an old bike do both the cassette and chain at the same time and will this for sure fix the problem?
Please remember this bike is maybe 15 years old and I just wanted to get back out, do a few miles to see if I can get my teeth back into it after all this time.
Many thanks
Rick

Skipping probably on the cassette, I reckon. I don't think I've ever had a big ring slip, and I've done a fair bit more than 8,000 miles in the decade I've had my road kit.

Have you looked at the photo ? It's hard to believe it doesn't slip when you see how little is left.....

adamr100 - Member

and look after it meticulously.

...and then posts a picture of one of the skankiest Ultegra chainsets I've ever seen.

suck it up buddy, 8,000 miles is a very good distance for a consumable item like that.

Just getting back into cycling after many a year out of the scene and managed to blag my younger brothers old Kona off him to make a start on. I'm no mechanic however the gears seem setup fine but the chain keeps slipping in certain cogs at the back (9 speed).
Reading through a few posts on here I'm a little confused. Is it best just to replace a chain? Or as its an old bike do both the cassette and chain at the same time and will this for sure fix the problem?
Please remember this bike is maybe 15 years old and I just wanted to get back out, do a few miles to see if I can get my teeth back into it after all this time.
Many thanks
Rick
Any help anyone, tried another ride yesterday and the same thing is happening, the chain keeps skipping between 3 or 4 middle cogs.
Thanks
Rick

 

I was getting grumpy about having to change the rings on my commuter which I'm going to have to do soon, this thread has made me feel a bit better about it as my non series shimano chainset has done over 14,000 miles on the original rings.

I'll probably go for a Claris chainset based on the OPs experience, should last forever.

Rick, depends really on your pockets and the condition of the existing old kit. There’s s lot could be wrong, including a bent derailleur hanger.

I’d start a new post and put up some close up pics of kit.

Some of you are talking about the chain skipping on the cassette, and some about it skipping on the chainring. There's no point advising what to do if it's not clear which of these 2 scenarios is occuring here....

There's no rule that says you need to replace cassette or chainring just beacause the chain is at 0.75.

Talking from my experience, if starting off with a new drivetrain, and where the chain is renewed at the 0.75 mark, a cassette will be OK with up to 3 chain renewals, or possibly only 2 if most of the wear is on the smaller sprockets. This 'rule' has worked for me for many years/bikes as sprocket and chain material hardness hasn't changed much. Chainrings, however, do seem to vary in hardness and some wear quicker than others so it's mainly a question of looking at the tooth profile. A simple check is to try pulling chain away from the chainring at about the 3 o'clock position. If it lifts above the height of the teeth, the chainring needs replacing, regardless of whether you can see shark teeth or not. On MTBs, you tend to get chainsuck before you get issues such as chain jumping across the teeth.

adamr100 - what you do mean by the '3/4/5' sprockets ? How many times have you already replaced the chain ? Did you get all the drivetrain new and fitted at the same time ?

spooky_b329 - Member
I stopped measuring my chain a long time back, I think it's a false economy.

+1 this. For off road at least. Was wasting tonnes on new chains and forced into more frequent cassette change, compared to just running it all to death. Myth is a worn chain wears components. Components just wear. Worn components mesh together and new components mesh together, not new with worn.

Though off road we have narrow wide chainrings and clutch mechs so that also means worn stuff can be run longer without dropping.