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On balance I often ride on the road wearing baggies and with mountain bike pedals and shoes.
Should be illegal
Rose bikes are more expensive in carbon than Ribble or Boardman, but the Ali offering is cheaper than the other carbons. Hmm.
Just aren’t other roadies going to sneer at you on one?
No, they are such miserable buggers they never talk anyway. Who cares what they think? I'm still an MTBer even if I'm on a road bike.
I get ignored by roadies whether I'm in full Lycra or not, I love the look of disgust I get after I've cheerfully said "hello!" 😄
A couple of anecdotes about roadies I have encountered.
I did the Lord of the lochs sportive a few years ago and there was a guy (who had been a right ignorant cock earlier in the ride) at the side of the road with the crank arm in his hand. It needed a massive Allen key that no one had. Never did see him again. Oh how we laughed.
Another sportive (my first ever), it was the Tweedlove one. At the cafe halfway point a guy with a South East accent came in with grazes all down him and his Assos kit in shreds. I went to see if I could help sort his bike out but the dura-ace shifter had been ripped clean off. I asked what had happened and he simply said "it was gravel" maybe they don't get that down south, it was at the bottom of a hill though before a bend he described.
Same sportive I was riding alongside an chap who was very friendly but suddenly become all concerned (actually shouting as me to watch out) when I didn't slow for the cattle grids and merely bunny hopped them.
Last year on the 'ride to the sun' sportive I got told off for weaving between the white lines on the road and bunny hopping the speed bumps, it was like 2am and the roads were empty and I was enjoying myself.
Roadies they just seem a bit different to us guys that like to get our tyres dirty.
Isn’t Rose just another Planet-x, Merlin or Ribble? Or even like Aldi?Just they seem more exotic as they’re German?
Yes.
No.
Nobody thinks they are exotic.
Roadies don't sneer at each other for having cheap bikes up here (Lancs), it's quite likely that some unassuming looking old guy on a blue winter Ribble will tear your legs off on a climb.
I’ve got a really great anecdote about mountain bikers.. There was I on my road bike in full Lycra when about 8-10mtbs came the other way. I waved, first guy ignored me, I waved again, next one ignored me. Despite my increasingly exuberant attempts to say hello, not one of them acknowledged my presence. Makes you think, eh?
+1 for imnotverygood and chakaping.....
People will be friendly or not regardless of what type of bike they're on.
And as per chakaping, pretty friendly in Lancs regardless.
@molgrips
I’m still an MTBer even if I’m on a road bike
What about a scooter? A trampoline? When you're swimming? In your PJs?
It's 2020, most folk on here ride road bikes, time to put the silly stereotypes to bed yet?
What about a scooter? A trampoline? When you’re swimming? In your PJs?
He has Saracen MTB PJs....
Roadies respect legs.
Don't matter what your riding ....if you can keep up with them when they give you the inaugural attempted dropping.
Last year on the ‘ride to the sun’ sportive I got told off for weaving between the white lines on the road and bunny hopping the speed bumps, it was like 2am and the roads were empty and I was enjoying myself.
Swoooon, are you surfmat?
Trail-rat. I don't sit on people's wheel as I think it's rude if they're not in my group.
I have had a couple of folks on road bikes race up behind me and then sit on my wheel without even a hello.
I'm no roadie despite being in full Lycra and being on a road bike. The hardcore roadies can smell it I'm sure. 😄
You lot are even worse than them grumpy roadies. 😀
Where can I get saracen PJ's? They sound right up my street. Do they have room for kneepads? 😲
One thing I'd like to say is that everyone is a lot more likely to say hello when out and about these days. It's really nice.
Anagellis, what a petty thing to say. I'm just trying to express that cycling should be a joyous thing not full of the fun police. I have enough of that at work.
Trail-rat. I don’t sit on people’s wheel as I think it’s rude if they’re not in my group.
What's that in reply to ? It seems irrelevent to añything I've said.
You were talking about riding someone off your wheel. In hindsight you probably were talking about a club ride and not just a regular ride.
Apologies if I took you wrong.
Isn’t Rose just another Planet-x, Merlin or Ribble?
Possibly, I wasn't sold on the brand or the looks, but the spec and the customisable options.
That being said, they don't break spec like those other brands (if it says Ultegra you're getting the whole groupset, down to the cables) and all the other finishing kit is aftermarket quality e.g. Ritchey carbon posts, Ritchey WCS alloy bars etc. Even the own brand wheels on a £1600 build were 1550g handbuilt efforts, I'd already agreed to sell them for a pittance until I realised they were much better than your usual Mavic Aksium or Fulcrum 900 that you'd normally get at that price range.
But yeah, I do always catch myself eyeing up the 'classic' brands with a bit of heritage behind them...
I like the fact you get nicer wheels, it seemed to be the way on every bike review they would complain about the stock wheels. Mind you I had a pair of SHIMANO RS100 wheels on a cheap road bike before that I actually quite liked. I think they retailed for something like £70. Shows you I have no class 😄
I quite like it when some of big brands do a cheap road bike but in the same colours as their pro bike. Bit like when you could get a Jordan Honda Civic.
Roadies don’t sneer at each other for having cheap bikes up here
They just sneer at anything ‘non-northern’
My old flat mate worked for Rollapaloozer roller racing who were doing a free event in some northern city, 2 chaps with bikes and dressed in local club kit were hanging around watching people race each other.
“all right lads, fancy having a go?”
“No, I’m not getting on that, that’s a southern bike”
(bikes were Condor branded a London bikeshop) and they shuffled off...
Bit like when you could get a Jordan Honda Civic
Remember the Banana Raleigh's?
Raleigh banana's! That's a blast from the past. I liked them.
Looked like the real deal....made of gas pipe.
It’s 2020, most folk on here ride road bikes, time to put the silly stereotypes to bed yet?
Not when it's for the purposes of humour, no 🙂
I like the fact you get nicer wheels, it seemed to be the way on every bike review they would complain about the stock wheels.
Wouldn't it be nice to be able to specify "no wheels"?
Wouldn’t it be nice to be able to specify “no wheels”?
Well the bike would certainly be lighter, but I'm not sure it would go very fast.
Under 6.8kg and £5k though 😉
Anagellis, what a petty thing to say. I’m just trying to express that cycling should be a joyous thing not full of the fun police.
Not as petty as your bull shit about how other people should behave, just ride your bike and enjoy it and let others do their thing
C'mon fellas. Calm down, calm down.
Please don't spoil what's been an interesting thread/existential review of price/weight/validity of road biking...
Ta 👍
Wouldn’t it be nice to be able to specify “no wheels”?
When you break down the price of a complete bike, it is often cheaper to build one from scratch. Even £2k-£3k for a frame, still leaves a lot for groupset and wheels and finishing kit (which is often equally as average as the wheels)
@mtbtomo you say that but the big manufacturers get up to 90% rebate from Shimano subject to volume. This is why complete bike prices are often cheaper than you can buy a frame, groupset, finishing kit and wheels for.
Be interesting to put together that bike Footflaps has zeroed in on at best Internet prices for the individual bits and see how close you can get to the whole bike price. I'd wager the bike is cheaper in Shimano flavour at least.
When you break down the price of a complete bike, it is often cheaper to build one from scratch.
At the higher prices yes, at the lower prices no. But if spending £5K I would definitely build it myself so it has all the parts I want on it and not what someone else has chosen to put on it.
Depends which brand and the level of integrated kit I suppose but pick say the CAAD Force AXS at £4800. £1k frame and about £1.5k for the groupset. So £2300 left for wheels and finishing kit. I wouldn't put a value if £2.3k on the rest of the kit that comes with it even if the Cannondale wheels are good. Maybe that's an odd example because it's an alloy frame but I bet there are others.
As per kerley, I'd rather pick my own spec at that price
My Canyon Aeroad, Ultegra Di2 £1300. Frame £2500, Wheels £1200. Tyres £80, integrated bars £300, saddle and carbon seat post £100. I paid £2900 (ish), in a sale. New price at the time was £3900.
I know it’s possible to buy a frame and build to a similar price for some bikes, but if you look at a bike with a fairly expensive group set it doesn’t seem to be such a bargain.
As an aside, I rode my heavy Trek Domane SL5 Disc today, it’s heavy and feels like more effort out of the corners, it’s got 32mm tyres, but it’s a ridiculously comfortable ride. Floats over bad roads. I’m almost tempted to go down the one bike route. By the time I can race again I’ll be 49, don’t really see the need for a full on race bike like the Aeroad. (I’ll ride the Aeroad tomorrow and fall back in love with it!!)
I like the fact you get nicer wheels, it seemed to be the way on every bike review they would complain about the stock wheels.
It’s better for a 4 or 5k bike to come with crap wheels imo and have very good everything else. Give me Di2, carbon finishing kit, then cheap wheels with the bike, as it’s good to have training wheels or cheaper wheels along with a pair of good wheels also.
I’d imagine a lot of riders buying a new bike in that price range already have a pair or two of carbon wheels anyways.
It’s better for a 4 or 5k bike to come with crap wheels imo and have very good everything else. Give me Di2, carbon finishing kit, then cheap wheels with the bike, as it’s good to have training wheels or cheaper wheels along with a pair of good wheels also.
I’d imagine a lot of riders buying a new bike in that price range already have a pair or two of carbon wheels anyways.
Pinarello are notorious for this. £10,000 bike with a cheap set of Fulcrums on it.
I can see the argument about having other wheels but with the changes in tech (move to disc brakes, bolt thru axles etc), who actually has an up-to-date set of wheels? I've got some decent (nothing special, they're Prime, CRC's own brand) carbon wheels. QR, rim brake.
I'm in the market for a new road bike but it WILL have discs. So my old wheels are worthless...
Normal format for club/enthusiast roadies seems to be buy bike, give it a year or so and then buy new, upgraded wheels and "retire" the old ones into winter duties.
I’m in the market for a new road bike but it WILL have discs. So my old wheels are worthless…
Kind of in the same boat here as I've several nice sets of rim-braked road wheels (one light, one semi aero, one aero) but of course none of use on my latest road bike, which has disks. I've still got several road bikes that are rim-braked though, so the wheels are still getting used.
I can see the argument about having other wheels but with the changes in tech (move to disc brakes, bolt thru axles etc), who actually has an up-to-date set of wheels?
This.
And some brands do it quite well, e.g. Cannondale provide nice carbon wheels on the SuperSix Evo Ultegra that I almost bought.
I can see the argument about having other wheels but with the changes in tech (move to disc brakes, bolt thru axles etc), who actually has an up-to-date set of wheels? I’ve got some decent (nothing special, they’re Prime, CRC’s own brand) carbon wheels. QR, rim brake.
This tech change thing is really overstated. Ignoring some oddities around when discs were first introduced (e.g. discs + QR), most road bikes now fall solidly into one of two camps:
1: rim brake + QR
2: disc brake + 12mm bolt through (100mm front / 142mm rear)
There are a few oddities out there, but you'd struggle to buy a current road bike that didn't fall into one of these two camps now, so the likelihood is that your wheels will fit one or the other. It gets a bit more complicated if you're using 12 speed as the freehubs are different, but otherwise interchangeability is straightforward.
This tech change thing is really overstated. Ignoring some oddities around when discs were first introduced (e.g. discs + QR), most road bikes now fall solidly into one of two camps
Well they have settled down now but lots of us have legacy kit in pre settled down standards. That's what's being referred to. A manufacturer sells shite wheels as part of a build assuming you've got better as it's being sold at 'enthusiast' level. You have; mid and deep section QR, 15mm front/135mm rear thru axle and loads of non tubeless... Many £££'s of existing investment, all completely incompatible with your new, errrm, 'whip' 😂
My SLR Endurance takes a 15x100 front wheel which does reduce the available options for upgraded wheels, however quite a few hubs seem to have adapters available. Failing that I could also consider changing the forks to ones that take 12x100 I suppose.
The wheels that came with the bike aren't complete shite anyway so I've not really felt the need to upgrade them yet as it's going to be quite a bit of cash to make it worthwhile.
Well they have settled down now but lots of us have legacy kit in pre settled down standards. That’s what’s being referred to.
It's a tough thing for early adopters (especially the 15mm axle which the industry should never have done :-/ ), but it has been pretty settled for the last few years now and hopefully it won't change much in the immediate future.
TBH, road bike standards have been pretty good over the last 20 years. With the exception of the addition of extra sprockets and the mess of BB "standards", road bikes have been far, far more stable than MTB. At least they haven't insisted on changing wheel sizes across the board! With the exception of the move to discs, the biggest changes have probably been in frame geometry and wheel clearances to allow larger tyres, but neither of these brings obsolescence in itself.
New hubs and a rebuild an option to bring legacy wheels up to standard? If the rims are decent, it may well be worth the modest investment.
Next Shimano groups will likely be 12sp also.
I've done the cost break down to build the Orca mentioned above since I'm looking into one myself, it's 5.3k RRP though I have been quoted as low as 4.7k.
Whilst I haven't had an actual quote for frameset alone the RRP is 2.9k, so add your Force AXS group at +1.5k (without cranks) then a reasonable carbon wheelset say around 1k and your already at the full bike RRP before you've added a decent bar, cranks (incl. rings and BB), tyres and saddle.
Well they have settled down now but lots of us have legacy kit in pre settled down standards. That’s what’s being referred to.
My CX bike is a 2014 model, that's got post-mount calipers and regular 135mm spacing / QR wheels. It's also got a front mech mount although it would obviously work fine as a 1x if required. But it does start getting difficult to source decent aftermarket spares.
Same on road bikes, you run the risk of a really nice lightweight bike that's a few years old ending up with cheap heavy wheels on it because that's the only thing available and all the top end wheels are either insanely expensive or increasingly, disc specific or possibly too wide.
My retro road bike won't take 28mm tyres for example.
@epic have a toddle along to here for 15mm to 12mm fork/thru axle adapters. I bought one recently to future proof my frame/15mm fork incase there’s an imminent shortage of 15mm hubs… At $50, a lot cheaper than a new fork…
Cheers - will look into that.
I don't know if it's the same for others, but I have changed MTBs waaaay more often than road bikes. Due to the rate of progress being more rapid.
The "best" bike I just sold was a 2012 and felt totally fine to me... until I rode the replacement one (which was still only a 2018, and with older Ultegra).
My SLR Endurance takes a 15×100 front wheel which does reduce the available options for upgraded wheels,
I bought CRC's Prime Blackedition 28s as they came with 15mm & 12mm endcaps, and were reduced to £500.
They are out of stock now, but I imagine the replacements will have the same adaptors.
Saved just over 300g against the Boardman SLR ELite Five stock wheels.
So my old wheels are worthless…
Well, if they're taking up space in the garage..... 😉
Ooh, how have you found them? I've just ordered a pair (in QR rim version).
"I bought CRC’s Prime Blackedition 28s as they came with 15mm & 12mm endcaps, and were reduced to £500."
@londoncommuter : mine are the QR rim brake version, running 28mm tubeless Schwalbe Pro 1. They're really nice; light, stiff, the braking is pretty decent. They look quite smart too, relatively understated. Tubeless went on easily and inflated first time, front one with a track pump, rear one needed a compressor on the first tyre but when I replaced the tyres, the replacement went up with a track pump so it might have been a tyre thing. No punctures at all, no problems with the hubs or rims at any point. Did everything from regular road riding to racing and even a LEJOG on them.
The wheels come with QRs, spare spokes, tubeless valves and brake pads, CRC are good with spares.
Thanks for that. Great to hear you like them. I was going to run them with 24mm Specialized non-tubeless tyres but couldn't get a great steer from CRC/Wiggle about whether they are too narrow for the rims. What do you think?
https://road.cc/content/review/255874-specialized-turbo-cotton-tyre
Mavic seem to say it's all right so leaning towards them having more of a clue.
http://engineerstalk.mavic.com/en/the-right-tyre-width-on-the-right-rim-width/
I've only done two sub-30km local rides, but they seem great so far.
Good to hear they've been reliable for you Crazylegs, as the hubs were the unknown factor to me.
@epicsteve - I got a local metalworkers to machine me a 98mm long x 3mm thick adaptor from aluminium tubing that reduced my hub from 15mm to 12mm - seems to have worked a treat and he only charged me a couple of quid - worth looking at ?
if you drop me a DM, I could send you a pic of it
I was going to run them with 24mm Specialized non-tubeless tyres but couldn’t get a great steer from CRC/Wiggle about whether they are too narrow for the rims. What do you think?
Specialized tyres come up quite wide. Other than Schwalbe Pro One, it's pretty much the only other brand of tyre I buy, I've used the Turbo (with tubes) a lot as race tyres. Super grippy bit they do wear quite quickly!
Although to be fair, I'd still buy the 26mm version.
johnny63
Subscriber
@epicsteve – I got a local metalworkers to machine me a 98mm long x 3mm thick adaptor from aluminium tubing that reduced my hub from 15mm to 12mm – seems to have worked a treat and he only charged me a couple of quid – worth looking at ?if you drop me a DM, I could send you a pic of it
It's the fork that's 15mm and it's getting matching 15mmm hubs that may become an issue. My link is for 15mm to 12mm FORK reducers to use a 12mm thru axle hub in a 15mm fork. Comprende? 👍
t’s the fork that’s 15mm and it’s getting matching 15mmm hubs that may become an issue. My link is for 15mm to 12mm FORK reducers to use a 12mm thru axle hub in a 15mm fork. Comprende?
Yes, it's not just the hubs that would need some kind of spacer, but also the forks including where the axle screws in. Those adapter things would probably work but while the choice might be limited there are still a fair few 15x100 hub options by the looks of it. In fact I'd been looking at those CRC own brand ones earlier.
Rather enjoying this thread. I've been back out on the roads recently, so much so that I'm considering a new road bike. More likely to be nearer the end of the year or the start of next but been browsing anyway. I was drawn to the TCR, had a good experience with my Reign and I'd never considered Giant before. Propel might not be the greatest looking bike but it has caught my eye, head says the TCR or Defy would probably work better though. Also caught with the Orbea OMX, local dealer has Orbea but Giant VFM seems very good.
Ive been riding my roadified Charge Plug, steel frame, large tyres and discs. I did pull out my old Planet X SL yesterday, 31.6mm seatposts and 23c tyres do not make for pleasant riding round here no more. Was never an issue at the time but its a tough ride now.
Griepal obviously doesnt want to spend more than £5k
Weight: 7.88kg
Because that 1 KG makes sod all difference. However they is a scale to it where 1kg won't make any difference I wouldn't want to be riding a 30kg bike around...
Those adapter things would probably work but while the choice might be limited there are still a fair few 15×100 hub options by the looks of it.
You mean like, Novatec, DT Swiss, Hope, Shimano....
Griepal obviously doesnt want to spend more than £5k
Weight: 7.88kg
Actual (reliable, stiff & aero) real world professional race bike with top end components weighs more than parts / bargain bin / eBay bargain built forum dwelling 'on my scales' bike shocker 🤣🤣🤣
As a bit of a lockdown project and based a bit on this thread, I stripped and cleaned my old road bike, a 2002 Specialized S-Works (the E5 aluminium road bike, before the Tarmac came in).
[img] 
[/img]
That's the frame. The kit on mine is full DA 7800 groupset:
[img] 
[/img]
And I've just taken off the aluminium American Classic wheelset and used the Prime wheels mentioned earlier in this thread with some narrower tubeless tyres. The wheels (inc tyres, QR etc) knocked off about 300g over the Am.Classic wheelset. [b]7.6kg[/b] on the bike shop digital scales.
The problem is, as discussed several times in this thread, the weight isn't the main issue; it's actually quite a flexy bike, the front end especially. 1" headset, narrow carbon stem and bars (ITM Millenium) means it really isn't as planted through corners as the Canyon Ultimate CF SLX I've ridden a lot or the 2015 Tarmac SL6) I had for a while. Sure, it's a bit lighter than either of those bikes but you can't push it as much.
But then it's 18 years old as well so...
yebbut that is the pinnacle of Dura Ace. Fill your boots here https://cycling-passion.com/dura-ace-history/
Itm millenniums. The bar de jour of the time.
40cm ?
Still running mine on a bike of same era on the turbo.
yebbut that is the pinnacle of Dura Ace.
Yep - best looking groupset of the lot. Last one they had external cables.
You've seen the bike - in fact we've probably been in the same race while I've been on it!
Best shifting too. I have it on my winter commuter (I know the shame). It took them a lot of re-engineering to get back to that shifting quality with 11 speed and coated cables.
I do enjoy a good GCN vid now and again. @footflaps opening post seems at odds with this one fromlast year that I just watched where only a couple of bikes are 6.8 kgs
Also this one also fromlast year suggests you can get a TDF bike for £5k @ 10m30s ....definitely mid range but perhaps footflaps needs the marginal gains of a top of the range bike to podium 😉
When Decathlon supplied the AG2R pro bikes, you could ride the same bike for a lot less than £5k. Seriously, you could buy a TdF bike in a supermarket (sort of) for about half that and exactly the same spec. The Van Rysel frames are not in the mainstream peloton, but still excellent bikes.
Imagine going to your Renault garage for a ...
@TiRed
Coincidentally just got an email from Decathlon to tell me their sale is imminent.
I wonder if this £3,499 Dura-ace 6.85kg bike will drop in price? No discs or Di2 but Di2 compatible.
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/rr-940-cf-carbon-road-bike-blue-dura-ace-id_8545918.html
On the subject of classic DA, Push Cartel in Ambleside had built one up for someone last year, was in their showroom....
Apparently they bought the groupset individually from all over the world, each bit unused and in its box.....
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I wonder if this £3,499 Dura-ace 6.85kg bike will drop in price?
Not much. At the list price it's a great bike already. Some great kit on a pro-level frame. If it drops below £3k I would be surprised. Wheels (£1260) and groupset (£900) plus a saddle (£130) and carbon bars/stem (£300) leaves about £910 for the frame. So don't get your hopes up!
There is no way that frame is worth "only" £900.
I was toying with a carbon Trek Emonda or Domane. I noticed they sell the frames on their own- often not much cheaper than a fully built bike.
yebbut that is the pinnacle of Dura Ace
What makes that era the pinnacle?
Shimano had been chasing Campagnolo performance for an age to gain pro acceptance (so were working harder), they had finally achieved their first TdF win a couple of years earlier (Lance), and were upgrading to their first 10-speed (a significant re-engineering at the back). The external shifting cables had no kinks at all, so the shifting is absolutely sublime. If your hands fit, the shifters are lovely, more like bar ends with grips than the tighter resting position that followed. The cranks are a work of art - Hollowtech and space-age looking.
People loved the Campagnolo hidden cables, but they forget the shifting experience. The next upgrade for Shimano was DA 10-speed Di2, and internal manual gear cabling. The first was an electronic backwater that was not followed (modern Di2 is based on the later Ultegra Di2 and not compatible), the second coupled dreadful manual shifting with snapped gear cables.
They remedied the shifting a bit with 11-speed DA by changing the cable angles and teflon cable coating, but it's not as nice. Di2 has however been a big success after switching from the original DA platform to Ultegra.
Shimano had been chasing Campagnolo performance for an age to gain pro acceptance (so were working harder), they had finally achieved their first TdF win a couple of years earlier (Lance), and were upgrading to their first 10-speed (a significant re-engineering at the back). The external shifting cables had no kinks at all, so the shifting is absolutely sublime. If your hands fit, the shifters are lovely, more like bar ends with grips than the tighter resting position that followed. The cranks are a work of art – Hollowtech and space-age looking.
People loved the Campagnolo hidden cables, but they forget the shifting experience. The next upgrade for Shimano was DA 10-speed Di2, and internal manual gear cabling. The first was an electronic backwater that was not followed (modern Di2 is based on the later Ultegra Di2 and not compatible), the second coupled dreadful manual shifting with snapped gear cables.
They remedied the shifting a bit with 11-speed DA by changing the cable angles and teflon cable coating, but it’s not as nice. Di2 has however been a big success after switching from the original DA platform to Ultegra.
Yes, probably the best alloy chainset ever produced, it's a shame they never made a proper compact version of it.
Aside from very smooth shifting, the shifters had their issues. The last pair I used, the left died completely, and the right needed a good rinse out with WD40 to get it to work. I much prefer the ergonomics of Campagnolo from that era, really good for small hands and I'm sure they'd help with alot of people's bike fit issues. They were also fully rebuildable, hence why there seems to be so many stil on bikes these days.
You have got me weighing my road bikes now!
CAAD8, budget build with whatever I had - bits of 105, Ultegra and non-series, old shallow narrow DT swiss rims, Schwalbe One 25mm tyres and light tubes, aluminium bar,stem, post - 8.4kg
CAAD12, moderate budget build using parts off an old higher end bike but still sensible money - dura ace mechs and levers, new shallow wide DT swiss rims, Schwalbe 28mm tyres with heavy tubes, carbon post but ally bars, stem - 7.6kg
If I was being a weight weenie I could drop 40g with a move to 25c tyres but that then means can swap tubes and another 60-90g (not weighed but based on manufacturer info).
I can't see how people have got down sub 7kg on a CAAD12 without spending fortunes, dropping the odd 100g from where I am is easy but above that superlight wheels, 50g on carbon bars, then onto silly bits like bolts, cages and upgrading pedals etc.
Not much. At the list price it’s a great bike already. Some great kit on a pro-level frame.
Yep, very good bike for £3.5k and proves why getting to 6.8kg is not really that easy. It has a 850g frame, 320g fork, 1500g wheels and full Dura Ace groupset with no discs or aeroness and still weights more than 6.8kg (just)
The easiest place to lose the weight is the wheels - tubs and a support car is a lot lighter than clinchers and a saddlepack. Access to frame, groupset and finishing parts isn't too hard. Wheels are where the difference is really made, bad it's a compromise too much for most.
Well, when I go out on my bike tomorrow, I'll have a 1kg saving compared to last week thanks to STW Chub Club!