[Closed] 3x9 to 1x10???

what cranks/chainrings are you currently running?

They can probably be tweaked to allow for a single ring up front.

an 11/36 on the rear and 32t up front is a great all rounder, or 30t if you live in a super hilly area. I'm only reasonably fit on a bike and can handle almost any climb within reason with a 36/32 pairing. If you do some really really steep and technical climbs then you might want to rethink single ring entirely.

Also, i really recommend a thick/thin chainring (likes works components for £30) and a clutch mech (they start at around £50). Means you don't need to run a chain guide.

I am afraid you are going to have to buy a whole new bike as your 3x10 bike will not be designed to withstand the extra strains of 1x10. 1x10 is such a game changer though this is not much for the return on the investment.

Cheers GEDA

I am afraid you are going to have to buy a whole new bike as your 3x10 bike will not be designed to withstand the extra strains of 1x10

I can smell a whiff of something in the air

Peterfile

Its a shimano slx triple at the minute, with hollowtech BB

Ive just done this - 3 weeks ago. Running a E13 G ring (32) on XT triple (you will need new crankring bolts as they will need to be shorter). With a clutch mech and a 11-36 cassette. Seems to be working fine around my part of the world without a chainguide. Nothing too steep where I am but managed 1500m of climbing (over 75km) on Sat without too much trouble and I'm by no means a "gifted" climber

I use a 34t front ring and 11-36 cassette. Any smaller front ring for me would spin out on the descents. However I'm not fit at all and can climb easily with that combo.

Your cranks will be fine, I think. Need to buy a single chain ring and bolts. Hope and e thirteen produce them.

I would not bother with 1X10. Just go 1X9 for a start. I am running 1X9 with a thick thin chainring and clutch mech but a sram shifter.

I have heard that the thick thin ring does not need a clutch mech but it helps. I was thinking of just using the tension screw on the rear mech.

In fact just leave the front mech on when you are testing the set up and you can see what works and what does not then buy a lighter chain guide in the future if required.

I would not go and buy a whole load of new kit just to go 1X10. 1X10 is very much like 1x9 but with a bit less gap between ratios.

Its a shimano slx triple at the minute, with hollowtech BB

I've got the SLX double, so the procedure should be pretty much the same (although perhaps someone with the triple could confirm).

Simply take off the exiting rings and put on the new single chainring on the middle tabs (inside of tab) with some single chainring bolts (you'll need to buy some). You may also need to adjust your chainline with spacers on the BB.

My grannyring tabs needed filed down a bit, yours may not.

I would not bother with 1X10. Just go 1X9 for a start. I am running 1X9 with a thick thin chainring and clutch mech but a sram shifter.

I have heard that the thick thin ring does not need a clutch mech but it helps. I was thinking of just using the tension screw on the rear mech.

In fact just leave the front mech on when you are testing the set up and you can see what works and what does not then buy a lighter chain guide in the future if required.

I would not go and buy a whole load of new kit just to go 1X10. 1X10 is very much like 1x9 but with a bit less gap between ratios.

In order to ditch the chainguide, you need thick/thin AND a clutch mech. just a thick/thin won't do it.

You could go 1x9 first, but that will mean buying a chainguide, which you won't then need if you go 1x10 thick/thin and clutch

Cheers for all the info, actually relieved i may not have to shell too much out!

I recently went from a 2x9 set up to a 1x10 and pondered for ages on the whole gear ration thing.

In the end I went for one of those General Lee adapter with the remains of an SLX cassette and a 34t chain ring up front. Thought I'd struggle but I've not had to walk anything that I could ride before and I actually think its making that little bit stronger. I reckon if there's a lower gear available, you're always gonna use it whether or not you need to!

I run mine with a clutch mech and so far I've only dropped the chain once and that includes 2 days at Antur Stiniog

You are going to need at least;
Cassette - SLX £40
Clutch Mech - SLX £55
Chain - SRAM 1051 £20
Single Shifter - SLX £30
Chain Ring - £30-40

You may also need a chain guide.

I love it. Its a lot of "complications" to drop. Others will, of course say different!

You probably won't [i]need[/i] a clutch mech, at least at first.
After changing to 1x10with a raceface chainring, I spent the day at bikepark wales, then when packing up realised the clutch had been off all day. No dropped chains. Since then have been to Antur, as well as my usual hacking round bridle ways, Swinley and Woburn dh, and haven't lost the chain, despite never having switched the clutch on
Might well change when the weather gets sloppier and the drivetrain wears, but if you don't want to invest much at first, just get the fancy chainring and see how that works.

Chainring wise, if you do it - grab a Race Face Narrow/Wide, I've recently gone 1x10 and the thing is bloody fantastic, no danger it's ever going to drop the chain. 😀

I would say you could just buy the middle ring of your choice and maybe some different chainring bolts (As the current ones may be too long). Remove all of the rings and put the new middle ring on. Remove the front shifter and adjust the front mech with the screws so it stays in the right place without the cable.

You are now 1X9 and can see if you like it. With 1x10 you only get a slightly better range as I don't think shimano makes 36x11 for 9 speed only 34x11 or 36x12 but there is not that much difference and you could always buy a cheaper 9 speed cassette and pull the 11 teeth ring off it.

If what vinnyeh says is right just get the thick thin ring and do not bother with 1x9. But you may need a new rear cassette and chain anyway depending on chain wear.

Just switched out to 1x10. 32t front, 11-36t rear. Ride mainly trail centres and not felt like I have really needed any higher or lower. On a 2013 SLX double, used 1.2mm spacers between tabs and ring to avoid filing the tabs and had no problems at all. On RF narrow/wide and Zee clutch.

Went from 3x9 to 1x10 on my cross, 40/11-36. Fantastic for South Downs. Kept the same rear mech, use a Surly chain ring and have never had a problem with the chain dropping. Will never use a front mech ever again and that includes for touring.

Just gone 1x10 from 3x9, new bike as well mind, thought I was going to struggle, but 32t up front with 11-36 rear cassette, has been easier than I thought, couple of big days in the lakes recently and didn't run out of gears. Raceface narrow wide and X9 clutch mech, running a top guide as well, though may ditch this next spring.

If you are using the granny currently to get up the hills, and are not a fan of a singlespeed technique for getting up the hills..
1x10 may not be suitable.

Cheapest way would be to do your rides in the middle ring for a while and see how that feels.

The illusion that is given that 1x10 is the answer to all gear combos isn't true. Or the definition of hill varies...

^^^^^^^^^^^did not use granny for a while to see if it suited.
Now running 1x9 with thick/thin chainring and no clutch mech,not dropped chain once 😯

Went from 2x9 to 1x10 7 months ago
like most running 32t up front and 11-36 rear

mrp am guide £90
e13 ramped chainring £25
zee clutch mech £50
Slx cassette £40
10 speed chain (first was a zimmermann £45) now running sram £20
zee shifter £30

Will run this set up on all future bikes

Agree with arj256. Before making the move I rode for about three months using just the middle (34T) ring on my double and bash set up with 9 speed cassette. Once I was happy I wouldn't die I moved to 1x10 with 34T and 11-36 cassette.

I've spent the year 1x10 on my Mega but I'm going back. I only get out once a week and for me that's not enough.
I manage at trail centres inc, that long climb on the black at GT but natures a damn sight steeper. I hate not always making those grunty little climbs.

I can't imagine climbing Snowdon on it 🙁

I tried not using the bottom 2 gears all winter on the hardtail and thought it would be ok. It seems daft to be straining when everybody around me is taking it easy...

would 1x10 give me enough for them there hills as I currently am using the little granny ring to get up!

Once you get used to it youll probably be fine. As above some people do not get on with it so try riding around in the middle for a bit and see how you go. If it works youll be a stronger faster climber for it, ending up with the same cadence as you have now. Im using mine for 1, 000m to 2, 000m days, so proper hills are not out of the question with 1x10, been 18 months since I took it off. Id suggest a 32 up front tho if you are doing lots of climbing... 32x36 is a good climbing gear for long hauls.

My experience has been marred by a painful left knee which hasn't helped. After reading another thread on a bad knee I know believe my seat may have been too high.

I am afraid you are going to have to buy a whole new bike as your 3x10 bike will not be designed to withstand the extra strains of 1x10. 1x10 is such a game changer though this is not much for the return on the investment.

And this week's award for The Most Unsubstantiated Cobblers in a Single Thread goes to...

I had 2 x 9 on my Orange Alpine (22/32 x 11-34). I went 1 x 10 for simplicity's sake more than anything.

I removed the inner ring from my chainset (a Race Face Respond, so I can remove the inner spider, too) and fitted a Hope 32T singlespeed/DH ring. The cassette I replaced with a Shimano SLX 11 - 36 10 speed affair, a Sram X7 10-speed rear mech and X0 shifter, together with a Sram 10-speed chain.

I already had a Superstar roller so I added an upper chain guide too.

The gears are a bit higher than previously, but only by about 5 inches on the lowest gear so I haven't lost a lot. Given that I also ride a road bike a lot more these days, it hasn't really proved a problem, except perhaps on the very steepest of climbs, but I'm working on those!

In all, best mod I've made in a long time.

And this week's award for The Most Unsubstantiated Cobblers in a Single Thread goes to...

woooooooooooooossssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh 😀

There is a 36-tooth nine-speed Shimano cassette out there, but it's a sort of Deore minus level touring thing and very heavy. I run 1x10 on an Mmmbop in the Peak with a Surly stainless 33-tooth chainring and an 11-36 at the back and it's been fine for me.

You want a non-ramped front ring with prominent teeth. Fine with a Superstar BB-mounted chain device for me.

To go 1x10 would cost you 1x chainring plus bolts, say £35 or so depending on what you buy, a 10-speed cassette, say 50 quid, a 10-speed righthand shifter, I dunno, 40 quid, a ten-speed chain, 20 quid or so, a basic chain device and a mech, preferably I guess, a clutch one, say another 50 quid, so that's what, £225 or so... depending on what you buy and where.

Looked at like that, it seems like a lot of money to spend to save not that much weight and potentially go slower. I can't say that running 1x10 has transformed my experience of riding, I only did it as I was building the bike from scratch. The only 'complexity' you're avoiding is a front mech and a couple of chain-rings and a shifter and cable.

Will you get up hills? I haven't the faintest idea. It depends how strong you are, but I don't see why not. It works round here which is reasonably lumpy.

And this week's award for The Most Unsubstantiated Cobblers in a Single Thread goes to...

woooooooooooooossssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Obviously that was the sound of it either going right over my head, or me missing the point by a country mile...

IGMC...

So choices choices. £225 for 1x10 or £35 for a thick thin chain ring and 1X9. Are the closer ratios really worth nearly £200???

I am afraid you are going to have to buy a whole new bike as your 3x10 bike will not be designed to withstand the extra strains of 1x10. 1x10 is such a game changer though this is not much for the return on the investment.

Whilst I'm fairly certain the above was written with tongue planted firmly in cheek, there is something in this. I've been running my 1x10 set up as detailed above somewhere for a while now. I have no problem with long climbs that require getting you're head down and grinding it out, however, short sharp technical climbs that require power are proving problematic. When I do apply power the front wheel is getting very light at best and lifting up at worst thus rendering steering almost obsolete!!. Of course it could be the nature of the bike or my riding style but it didn't do this before. I've tried getting out of the saddle to weight the front a bit more to find the rear spinning out. Tyre choice could be an issue but again it didn't do this before

It would seem the extra power being transferred to the back wheel is enough to cause the problems it does

Good timing? This month's (november) MBR mag (can I say that on here?) has a how to guide for going 1x10