[Closed] 3-speed IGH

I used a Shimano Nexus 3 speed for a while, on my Citybike/Rigid MTB.

It was better than singlespeed, but hard work.

Have a look [url= https://hubstripping.wordpress.com/ ]here[/url], for more info and comparisons.

Yes I do as my winter bike - the sealing is pretty good. It does need maintenance every couple of years, I'm fortunate that my LBS is good at stripping and fixing them.[url= http://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/s3x-silver ]
So I got this one S3X[/url]

swavis has one on his Singular Puffin.

Aren't they generally 130mm OLD rather than normal MTB of 135mm?

From the Puffer thread[img] [/img]

Aren't they generally 130mm OLD rather than normal MTB of 135mm?

Using my google-fu, it appears the SA disc fitted ones are 135mm. I think SA do a 170mm too...

Don't know about SRAM/Shimano; will have a proper look once children down.

I've got one of these:-

http://www.billys.co.uk/english/group.php?prod=hust-srk

Prefer the feel of the SA compared to an Alfine (not as mushy). Have mtb'd a bit in NW and Lakes and was generally very good and efficient. Gearing was too tall for Austrian Alps..... Will shortly be going on my commuter.

The sprocket isn't std SA - it is normal cassette spline, but held on with a circlip not locknut (so sprocket needs to be the right thickness / shimming)

Cons
Only comes in 36 hole. Sealing non existent (balls just under a cover). Nuts and anti-turn washers are a bit crude but work OK. It is 135mm OLN but uses a lot of spacers to achieve this so axle might be a bit weak (bearings a long way inboard) if you are too gnarly.

It comes with a very bulky "thing" on the axle end to act as cable stop and cable pulley. Works much better with an old style hollow nut and cable stop on your seatstay like on that puffin above.

Some old pictures. The one of the bike isn't with it fitted - just showing the best cable run / cable stop position if using an old tube nut rather than all that plastic / cable guide gubbins:-

As you can see, the spacer nuts and "freehub" design mean that the chainline is a long way inboard (make sure you can adjust chainring far enough inboard to get it to line up).

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

Sealing non existent (balls just under a cover)

That's a bit of a worry; was thinking how to make a mud-proof bike that I could get up the local hills...

was thinking how to make a mud-proof bike that I could get up the local hills

Why not use an alfine 8
they are pretty cheap, not much heavier than a SA, bombproof and impervious to mud.

I take mine down DH runs

Have a look at the Hubstripping page I linked you to - look at the gear ratios of the IG3 and SRAM 3/4 speed hubs and see how they compare to the SA.

I think they all have some sealing, though it was poor on my Shimano 3-speed.

I think all the 3 speeds are pretty close in terms of ratio range - I once worked it out to be somewhere near equivalent range to a single rear sprocket run with a triple chainset.

I personally prefer the pedal "feel" of the 3 speed to the Alfine (very subjective). Alfine 1:1 is spin most cogs in the box, whilst 3 speed is locked out and fully efficient apart from energy losses of a ticking pawl 🙂

Alfine is silent. All 3 speeds (inc Shimano "silent clutch") go tick tick tick as you pedal certain gears.

As per my photos - there are no seals at the bearing cones - just shields. That black cap between the "freehub body" and the hub shell is just a tinny clip on shield - remove it and can see the edges of some balls. There is also a hole down the axle centre that goes into the hub. For road and summer use it is fine. For typical winter mtb duty cycle of immerse in mud - occasionally hose off - stand for a few days to corrode - repeat, it isn't ideal. Frustrating as SA could easily add some good seals. Many years ago I swapped some emails with Alan at Sunrace regarding making an MTB specific hub. That was before the disc mount hubs came out - maybe time to ask the question again