29+ SS project wwst...
 

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[Closed] 29+ SS project wwstwd?

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Need some help on how best/doable to quickly get from A to B without it costing hardly a thing. Also any advice on parts choice as am an old stick in the mud with not too much knowledge beyond rigid, QR and cable discs!

A: Have a 2x10 MK1 Longitude with Hope Tech Enduro/Pro 2 QR wheelset (in nearly new condition) , 2.1 Contis (minimal wear), Avid BB Mtn (also like new)

B: have been using it for + gravel, but since my (SS) hardtail died I could poss ‘replace’ with proper single-speed 29+, tubeless with some decent hydraulic brakes?

First thoughts

1. Sell wheels and tyres to fund 2.8 wheels and tyres?*

2. Sell shifters, derailleurs, chain rings, cassette, (XTR) to fund the brakes and anything else required?

* Or could I get by with 2.6” tubeless on my Hope Techs (23mm internal)? They are nice wheels, scared to let go 😬

User profile: I’m fairly lightweight in style but heavyweight in lbs. Just want to get down a mountain in one piece sometimes. And to lose weight. My ‘normal’ riding is more XC/easy long day rides on mixed terrain


 
Posted : 12/02/2021 12:37 pm
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Anything over 2.4 will have a rounded shape and have to be pumped up too high on 23mm rims.
IMO you need at least 30mm internal to run 2.6/2.8 tyres at low enough pressures to see the benefits of 29+

I run Flow Mk3s on my Stooge with 2.8F and 2.6R tyres.

What's wrong with he Avids? Are they BB5 or BB7? If BB7 keep and just make sure they're well set up.

I'd buy new wheels, remove gear bits, and run the rest of the bike as is.


 
Posted : 12/02/2021 12:45 pm
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One other option: keep the wheels, try and find a cheap pair of dedicated 29+ wheels. Two bikes in one. I'd also suggest borrowing (if you can) a 29+ wheelset to try it out; I built up a budget 27.5+ wheelset and hated the experience. Luckily I was able to sell it for the cost of parts.

I've got a Stache frame and forks I'm having serious doubts about letting go of, and it'd make a fab 29+ singlespeed, so I'll follow this thread with interest.


 
Posted : 12/02/2021 1:08 pm
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My Stooge (yes, another) sat next to me is currently wearing 2.6 tyres on i30 rims which is a great combo.

If I wanted wider tyres I'd widen rims too....on i35 rims I've run 2.4 (borderline), 2.6 and 2.8 tyres. For 3.0 tyres I'd prefer i40 or i45 rims.

I have built & tried all the variations I've mentioned. Personally, in your position, I'd look for new, wider rims with same erd as old ones, and rebuild myself. I'd keep the brakes if they are bb7s


 
Posted : 12/02/2021 1:10 pm
 Andy
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You might struggle with chain clearing tyre on a Mk1 Longitude running full 3" rear and 2 x 10 when on small-small cogs, as its a none-boost rear hub size. Maybe consider an i40 and 2.8 tyre on the rear and i45/3.0 on the front for the lols?

"to quickly get from A to B...."

Chain reaction are doing cheap WTB KOM heavy rims at the moment in i40/i45 flavour. If you like your Hope wheels why not build another pair of wheels. Easy to learn your self using the £10 wheelpro book. Could do it for £200 with Novatec/Shimano hubs and Cyclebasket spokes. Maybe a bit more with tyres. Even cheaper if have old wheels you can use the hubs from.

Keep the BB7 mtn brakes and make sure set up properly - compressionless outers / decent pads.

PM me if need any further advice


 
Posted : 12/02/2021 2:13 pm
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Thanks for the replies. Quite a bit to think about!

One other option: keep the wheels, try and find a cheap pair of dedicated 29+ wheels. Two bikes in one

Bike budget is currently zero unless I sell stuff I already have. I do have some bits of hardtail to get rid of but they’re just old forks and odd wheels. Some Juicy 3 brakes that need bleeding. In fact I could put those old brakes on the Longitude because (when they’re working) they are much better than the BB7s for descending technical stuff. Probably would need a new hose for the rear as currently mounted on the shortitude (26er P7) and they’re rusty etc.

BB7s are pretty good but they (used bike, custom build, I’m 2nd owner) came with some Sora flat-bar levers which aren’t the best for the job IMO. What do other BB7rs use? Not a fan of Avid SDs either, prefer a longer lever. Overall if honest I prefer the feel and power of decent bedded-in hydraulic brakes, prob because current biffer status + steep around these parts is a suitable equation for such! But those Juicy 3s when bled were working like a dream. No squeal either.

Keep the BB7 mtn brakes and make sure set up properly – compressionless outers / decent pads.

Setup with Avid Flack Jackets currently. I recabled front and rear for a loop bar (something else to sell!) which IIRC cost me a lot for such a small job. This is another reason why careful consideration required. Wrong choices could leave me worse off/ever-reducing circle/cycle. I know, I know...

But at least single-speed should be right?


 
Posted : 12/02/2021 2:47 pm
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I cannot easily run a 2x10 set up on my Longitude with a 3'' Chronicle on a 50mm RH rim.


 
Posted : 12/02/2021 2:56 pm
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Just to be clear it’s a single speed project. Is there a magic rim that can do 2.2 Conti Race Kings on gravel days and 2.8 whatever on mountaineering days? i30?

I have an odd Stans Flow MK3/JRA wheel in 26” flavour that was earmarked for abandoned hardtail build, and like it a lot. 29mm internal? Have only had 2.5 on it though, nothing narrower


 
Posted : 12/02/2021 3:08 pm
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It sounds like you have a lot of surplus stuff; why not thin down your horde a little bit? You'll be surprised how much you raise (especially at the moment) and it'll give you a bit more choice, too. For example, I found a really nice second hand frame to address the shortcomings of the Stache (mainly wanting, not need, a slightly longer dropper post and a slightly longer TT), but once I'd sold off lots of random bits from the shed to cover the cost of the new frame, I've found I have the parts and funds left over to at least have a rolling rigid singlespeed chassis.
I'd be tempted, if I was in your boots, to consolidate it all down to one frame, some really good brakes, a 1x gear option and a choice of wheels. From memory the Longitude has external cable routing, so you could swap between gears and SS, fat and thin wheels quite easily.
Posting from the perspective of someone who has a box of spare hubs Because Spare Hubs, mind...


 
Posted : 12/02/2021 5:19 pm
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I'd absolutely sack the idea off. I ran my Trek Stache 29+ singlespeed earlier this year after the mech hanger snapped and it was awful. I used to SS a lot but I was having to ride this thing with a gear ratio of something like 32:21 to get up hills, and then it was terrible downhill because I'd spin out way to early. I was having to adjust routes and miss out on certain trails because it was too much of a ball ache to ride them.

I'm a strong rider (I snapped the mech on the way to 8th place at the Strathpuffer) and it just wasn't enjoyable.

29+ is bloody great though. I'd find a lightly used Trek Stache somewhere, geared and forked and with hydro brakes, and do whatever you like on it. I race mine with normal wheels but I've taken it down DH tracks, strapped stuff to it, ride it all winter locally. It's ace. Go full 3" though - 2.6" is good for charging hard on a full suspension bike but I think proper plus tyres suit a hardtail better. I run 2.6s on a 25mm rim just fine, they just come up a bit small.


 
Posted : 12/02/2021 5:25 pm
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I’d absolutely sack the idea off

Singlespeed? It’s the only MTB option that I have at the minute. Hoik, push, plummet. I enjoyed it immensely ie summer/autumn 2019 on a (32:16) SS hardtail, 2.4” tyres, before I discovered the frame had corroded/failed. Was gutted. That could still be the perfect solution, ie sell the Longitude wholesale and buy another SS hardtail. Even a 26er. They are fairly rare though. Risky though, and the Longitude is a beaut/50th birthday pressie to self.

After said single-speeding and gaining confidence in the injury/feeling stronger - as soon as I got back on the (2x) Longitude and even momentarily climbed in the saddle I undid six months healing and then was left with zero riding option and another X months of rest and recovery and physio. Am on about the third frustrating cycle of this since 2016. Diminishing returns. There simply can’t be a fourth. Am looking into private surgery but it’s expensive and anyway Mrs P is in much greater need.

It should be a simple thing! Sack it all off and go zen/footbike 😬

I ride with friends a couple of times a year though, and it means a lot/keeps me sane/semi-sociable.


 
Posted : 12/02/2021 6:33 pm
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What size longitude is it? I could be interested in a frame or full bike.
Currently got a rigid medium stache for sale.


 
Posted : 12/02/2021 8:24 pm
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Could you buy the i35 rims from crc, tape them to your existing ones and do a straight swap? No idea about diameters/spoke lengths, but it would be cheap if it works...


 
Posted : 12/02/2021 8:35 pm
 Andy
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I had a Singular Rooster which I only ever rode 29 x 3.0 singlespeed. Loved it. Thought the plus tyres and singlespeed went really well together as a perfect simple bike with no need for gears or suspension. I actually ran it as a dingle with 32/20 and 36/16 for some of the flatter stuff nearby.

If zero cost and SS (sorry missed that in your original post) sounds like you easily have enough parts to sell until you can afford the wheels. I would start selling the least wanted parts first eg the 26er parts, maybe the XTR (which goes for a fortune on ebay) which will pay for the wheels.

For wheels I would still take the route i suggested and I would hang onto the Hope wheels as they would be the hardest to replace if you want to go back.

BB7s; arent Sora levers road/canti pull so the wrong levers for BB7 mtn?


 
Posted : 12/02/2021 9:27 pm
 Bez
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Isn’t the easy option to simply buy a sprocket, some spacers, a chain tug and maybe a chainring?

If you just want simple, cheap riding then you’re good to go: you’ve got decent wheels and brakes and a singlespeed-compatible frame; it seems like you’re planning a massive overhaul just for slightly bigger tyres. Will those bigger tyres actually transform the riding enough to warrant the extra, when you just go singlespeed for £20-50 (minus whatever you can sell your current drivetrain and shifters for, which may even put you into profit).


 
Posted : 13/02/2021 1:36 pm
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It's not about easy option, it's (well, should be) about proper option. Same as with flat pedals, you need proper shoes to get the most of them, with 29+ you need wide rims (id45 ideally) with decent, tubeless tires. There's no shortcut I'm afraid.


 
Posted : 13/02/2021 2:34 pm
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I love my Rooster 29+ singlespeed. Possibly my most ridden bike as requires almost no maintenance. But it’s not a cheap option particularly, tyres being the biggest cost. Currently running Minion 29x3” front and back, in the summer I’d normally go for Chronicles but Maxxis have stopped doing them. So will be trying some Teravail Coronado 2.8’s when things dry out and warm up.


 
Posted : 13/02/2021 3:41 pm
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Isn’t the easy option to simply buy a sprocket, some spacers, a chain tug and maybe a chainring?

Yep. But then it wouldn’t halfway replace the SS hardtail (project brief) for the mountainy stuff. I could even keep it geared and ride in one gear. Keep sucking the pastille, so to speak

The other option would be to sell my spare Tora forks and Alex front wheel for say 70 quid (?) then use the cash to buy a cheap alu 26er frame and a chain tensioner then rebuild the hardtail with the old bits.

Finding a cheap 26er frame that takes 140/150 Sektors and has decent rear tyre clearance could be an issue.

Same amount of money might get me an 88 BCD chainring for the Longitude, I already have spacers and 16T cog. It could see me right for ATB riding until such a time I can raise money for a plus wheelset.

BB7s; arent Sora levers road/canti pull so the wrong levers for BB7 mtn?

Maybe ? but they stop me ok. I didn’t change them as was planning hydraulics!


 
Posted : 13/02/2021 4:19 pm
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Your cheapest/easiest option is probably buying some+ rims with a similar erd and swapping them onto the Hope wheels.
Very easy, even if you've never built a wheel.

Where are you?
If you're anywhere near me in Devon (+ I work in Somerset) I'd lend you the wheels from my Krampus to try out...
Hope hubs, Surly Rabbit Hole rims, with 3" Maxxis tyres. They're already set up for singlespeed.


 
Posted : 13/02/2021 5:12 pm
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Apologies for the hijack - but what rims do people rate? CRC has deals on WTB KOM lights at the moment, and I've just had a pair of Innova-pro Transformers arrive in the post. Are 45mm internal rims the way to go?


 
Posted : 15/02/2021 12:53 pm
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I’m running Velocity Dually 29er rims on Hope hubs. Not needed touching for years apart from a rear hub service this year (the first in five years).


 
Posted : 15/02/2021 1:17 pm
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Thank you! I've got some non-boost wheels with Hope hubs going spare at the moment, so will potentially look at a rim swap and boostination. I've already done the front, will look at rear and what I could get away with using re-dished spokes.


 
Posted : 15/02/2021 2:59 pm
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@ajantom

I’d lend you the wheels from my Krampus to try out…

That’s really kind offer thnks but am Herefs. I’ve tried a 27.5+ Longitude on 2.8” (Scraper w/Trailblazer)for a quick blast around the park. Not sure that counts, but it was fun.

Thanks for all the replies, really helpful. Weighing it all up I’m still uncertain which way to go. Paralysis! One thing is for sure I gave to go singlepeed on the Longitude whatever so will get on with that. 88 BCD being an (of course!) a rare and therefore more expensive option I wonder if I can’t use the existing Blackspire 10spd ring (28T) rather then shelling out for narrow wide?


 
Posted : 15/02/2021 4:20 pm
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Can’t see why that wouldn’t work @p7eaven, narrow wide has very little if any benefit on a SS assuming you get the chain tension right. I’m running XT cranks with SLX 30t ring and a SRAM PC1 chain, and I think a Surly cog. Think any 8/9/10 speed chain would work though.


 
Posted : 15/02/2021 5:56 pm

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