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my 2013 revs have a crappy New style pushloc, everytime a drop of water gets near it it becomes sticky, and today it became stuck and wouldn't budge.....took it apart and the inside of the button seems to have snapped on a tiny piece of plastic
really peed off, only 2 months old...I don't want a pushloc anymore as I refuse to pay for another one to do the sane again
is there anyway of making it a crown lockout without Changing the assembly etc?
please say it's possible, really am cheeses off
They are the rl version 2013 solo air ones..great forks too I must add! Apart from this pesky pushloc
well I'm waiting on a part from Loco to do this. I'll report back once it arrives 🙄
Ohhhhh bruneep so it is possible?
hallelujah praise the lord!
how much is and is it a easy job? Also guessing yours are 2013 ones with the new style shite pushloc?
I was told so, I'll only know once the bits are here and fitted. Was assured 'twas easy. I'll update once fitted (or not)
You can also remove the spring from the pushloc and turn the cap manually. Nothing to grip apart round cap so not ideal.
Yes RTL solo air
Thanks bruneep Appreciate the quick response, yours are the new style ones though right? I know you could change the older model ones but not seen anything mentioned on 2013 solo air ones
It's a really poor design you can't get a drop of water near it or it just seizes and rusts and then sticks
ahh sorry bruneep you must have edited that before i posted the last question
cheers for the info....so as ive now got nothing on my right hand leg (dial wise) can i just bung the blue dial thing back on without the cable/remote and turn it manually? will it lock in place still though?
really am peev'd with it, just a pile of crap...that XLOC hydraulic version looks much better like the reverb, but again its just something else to go wrong!
i think ill see what loco says and go from there as im done with the remote now
DNA dampers are not convertable to crown top adjust due to different designs, you have to replace the damper to a crown adjust one, unlike the older mocos. 😐
Have mailed you Bruneep regarding the parts.
bawls-a-rama!
2 different damper assemblys - nice work RS! just for the sake of a remote
doh!
ahh well no way im paying stupid money for another crap remote to break inevitebly.....
ill just have to buy a new rl crown assembly eventually, but for the time being im just gonna run it open all the time and stick blue dial back on...
EDIT - ha! cross post with loco
Yes bits dont work.
New damper assembly required. Not impressed with RS either.
Read this with interest as I've a new set with the new pushloc and planned to run them without it. But the spring is in the assembly and its normally closed so that won't work. Was thinking of removing the internal spring - anyone tried that? Is it possible?
Yes spring can be removed, done this to mine. Top cap not easy to rotate tho. The parts I was send would work with a custom spacer if someone had the know how, however that is somewhat above me.
What parts were you sent exactly? The compression knob?
What is involved in removing the spring?
[img] 
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The Poploc on the left and cap that was sent on the right.
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Sent cap fitted.
Oh, bugger. But you can still remove the spring a'la earlier MoCo's and use the original cap (althought it won't have "notches" for predefined positions and will be harder to turn)?
yes
I've also just bought a pair of 2013 Revelation RLT's with the new style pushloc. I didn't actually want the pushloc but the forks were going cheap. I assumed I could just not fit the push lock, but didn't realise the spring keeps the forks locked so you basically have to use the push lock.
Initially, I plan to put a gear cable inner into the top cap so that the nipple is held by the end stop that normally holds the outer of the pushloc cable. Then I can twist the blue knob to the unlocked position (under tension of the spring) and tighten the grub screw down on the cable, thus fixing the blue knob in the unlocked position.
Ideally I would like to be able to lock and unlock manually by removing the spring, as suggested by bruneep. I've read elsewhere that you can also add an o-ring to provide a bit of friction so that the knob stays where you put it.
My question is, once it is modified, does the springless blue knob then behave exactly the same as a proper manual blue knob (apart from being harder to turn because it doesn't have the little lever on)? It looks to me like the blue knob on the pushloc version only turns about an 1/8th of a turn to go from locked to unlocked. Is that the same as the proper manual lever does?
Initially, I plan to put a gear cable inner into the top cap so that the nipple is held by the end stop that normally holds the outer of the pushloc cable. Then I can twist the blue knob to the unlocked position (under tension of the spring) and tighten the grub screw down on the cable, thus fixing the blue knob in the unlocked position.
Can't comment on the rest but this is exactly what I have done and it works well. I too am planning on eventually removing the spring though so interested in the replies.
it was me whom started the thread - i took the damper out and got a crown lock out one from loco - sure he will do you a good price
i wouldnt bother with the faff, just suck it up and get a crown lockout damper instead
that remote is a piece of shit, redesigned or not, its a cable thats prone to seizing after washing it, even when using a lube on the cable, absolute pants! wouldnt have one given me
im much happier with the crown and it also means you can tune the compression from open to lock something you cant do on the pushlock, its either full open or closed, nothing in between
Any updates on this topic, as I would like to get rid of the pushloc if I can
I have the 2013 Sid RL solo and i hated my lockout so i did a DIY bodge but it means its open all the time. Will post a pic of what i did later if anyone is interested
I am definitely interested in cheap DIY mods that mean I can remove the pushloc and leave the fork unlocked all the time.
Haryuken - i used a gear cable housing ferrule, trimmed slightly that fits into the black clamp around the blue dial, inserted an old gear cable that still had the metal stop attached and then threaded the cable through took up the tension so fork was completely open and then did up grub screw. Will post a pic tonight and it should all make more sense 🙂
Yes please - pics always help 😀
Heres the pic to my DIY modification
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10738091@N07/with/9138276604/lightbox/
Oooooh, good skillz Moda, I love bodges like that ^^. 😀
I see your stupid 'need the unreliable lockout lever fitted to make the fork work at all' system and I raise you a cable ferrule and an old gear cable. 😛