[Closed] 2013 Revelation Blowing Through Travel

Stick some oil in the air cart. I run 10cc of fuild (which is 5cc of Fox float fluid and 5cc of 10wt sus oil) in my air cart to get my Revelation to be less linear. Just let the air out, remove the air cap and pour the fluid in.

Its like a poor mans version of the new bottomless tokens RS now offer.

Thanks for the info, any reason why you mixed up the oil? Could I use 10cc of float fluid?

Yeah they are pretty divey when it gets steep aren't they, I have the RCT3 and even at full compression they dive too much.

Inspired by the bottomless tokens on the Pikes I found that an old rubber Recon travel spacer I had lying around that fits snugly in the air leg top cap. This has made a little bit of difference to the last couple of inches of travel but I want to add some more in. Occured to me last night that drilled corks/plastic corks from wine bottles might work.

I like the oil idea but surely that will just fill up the negative chamber with oil, by oil passing through the gap in the stanchion wall the air passes through from +ve to -ve chambers, thus removing all negative spring? It would work on old dual air forks though.

Is it obvious what the size of the DIY tokens would be? I just made some volume spacers for my float shock easily as I got access to a 3D printer so can easily make them for the shock if its easy.

I can measure this spacer I have, it is a good size though it is only held into the top cap by friction and the give of the rubber material it is made from. I had thought of making some scores inside the alu top cap to help it grip. I don't know how you would make hard plastic stay put, you would need to bond it somehow.

Alternatively if you have calipers or something you could measure the inside of the cap to see what would fit. Main thing is to have a hole in the middle for the air to pass through! Pike tokens are threaded and use an 8mm allen key sized hole.

As above don't put oil in the air leg it'll just mix with the grease and block the transfer port.

The spacers are all well and good but if they come loose you risk damaging the internals, a new csu & air spring is going to be a written off fork really

Ah yes, Solo air, sorry. I'm dual air so oil is OK. You pay for progress it seems 😉

I used a mix of oil 'cos a nice man told me to, and he knows more than I do. Simple as that really.

Yeah thats why I thought a plastic cork would be relatively safe to use, if it does drop out the cap it is soft and light.

Ill have to look to see if you can fix anything to the underside of the cap then. Failing that its a new tune?

Do you mean compression damping tune? I'm not sure you could tune it out successfully, certainly when I crank up the compression on the RCT3 damper, it has an effect on bump sensitivity as well as dive

Loco, so is there a proper mod you can do to make them less linear?

my solo air rev's are like this, either way too stiff for small/medium hits or straight through the travel the 1st time I brake, is there a solution?

preferably a cheap one...

it's the 2013 solo air rev's we're discussing.

h'up for the Wednesday crowd....

Same here - both '13 solo air Reba's and Rev's.......

Thinking of bonding an old rubber travel spacer into a spare topcap I've got......

Give it a go on one pair of forks to see if improves matters - then start fine tuning.

Anyone know the dimensions of pike bottomless tokens?

Pikes are 35mm stanchions I think so don't think there is any chance of the pike ones fitting.

If I fit a second spacer in mine I'll report back.

Yeah, aware of the difference of stanchion diameter - more interested in height so can gauge approx dimensions for 32mm version.....

Bump for morning crowd. 🙂

Hmm. I'm perfectly happy with mine. Infact, I think it's a substantial improvement on dive control without affecting small bump compliance over the black box rlt I had before.

You are aware of the relationship between the threshold lever and the 'lock out lever'?

Yup, aware of the damping controls etc - just can't get them feeling "right"

Correct air pressure leaves them feeling dead/harsh on small stuff - too little pressure to counteract that leaves them very divey........

Horses for courses I guess.

I actually prefer the feel of the solo air to the dual air too.

I tend to set mine by sag rather than specified pressure (learned to ignore RS pressures years ago!), then dial in the damping to limit the diving.

YMMV

If I put the recommended pressure on the leg in mine (lower value) then I get no sag but riding forward in the garden at walking pace and putting the front brake on will go through 75% of the travel instantly.

Is this a problem with the RL's that don't have the full range of adjustment options?

I have just fitted some 140 rct3 revs to my hardtail but have not ridden yet due to needing to service my rear wheel.
I am a bit of a biffer so have put 135 psi in. But not checked the sag yet.

What would the correct amount be, I normally aim for a little over 20%.

Sag is very much a personal thing. I tend to run about a third but plenty of people run less.

Picton - RL's are a slightly older version of the damping - TBH I can't remember what they can and can't do, but I'm pretty certain its not at the same level of performance as RCT3.

I don't go by pressures, I go with where the oring moves to on my local stuff then see what sag it gives.

To use most of the travel allowing some margin for big hits i have to run about 12-15% which makes small bump stuff awful.

If i set the sag to 25% i bottom out the fork a lot and it sits deep in the travel on the steeper stuff. Its got to the point when i do steep runs i turn the compression knob to the middle or even to full compression.

Read the April and May updates here - http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/longtermer-yt-industries-wicked-150/

I know it's 2012, but probably similar issues in being able to actually make the fork more progressive for the 2013 I'd have thought.

Thanks for the info, unfortunately it doesn't apply to my forks, i don't have low speed compression and have only 3 settings for compression and a rebound setting.

Looks like theres **** all i can do apart from sell or keep using the compression knob.

kapow

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There's a load more to suspension performance than spring weight and damper settings, the bike's angles have a massive affect on how some forks feel.

For example, I have some Revelation Team with blackbox dual flow damping. They were on my Commencal meta 55 (68 degree head angle) and I set sag to 25% in the attack position, which gave me about 5-10% sag when seated and little small bump sensitivity. I like it like this because if you get into some steep, slow, all your weight over the front stuff, you get the support you need.

I've just changed them over to my new Yeti asr5 with a 67 degree head angle and I get no sag at all when seated. After sitting and scratching a bit and pondering over this I've realised that the biggest difference between the frames is actually the stack height. The Commie has a much lower stack than the Yeti meaning more of my weight is over the front whilst seated. As a result the same forks feel really different between each frame without actually touching any of the settings.

I would recommend that when you set sag, always do it in the 'attack' position, and accept that whilst seated you won't get a loads of small bump sensitivity. It takes a very special frame and fork combo to have support and small bump sensitivity. The only fork I've had that come close is my old Bos Devilles.

I get very little sag on my ASR5 too. They are still very divey, linear forks though, regardless of frame angles.

That's not something I've experienced with my Revelation Teams. I can't comment on how they are with the yeti because yet again I've received a brand new frame with a faulty Fox RP23 shock, so haven't been able to ride it. That said, with the Commie they were far from linear or divey. To be honest they're the best Rockshox I've had in this respect. Maybe these are a fluke?

I've put an extra 20 ml of pm600 military grease in the positive air chamber of my 2013 solo air rebas. I'm still tuning the amount but a vast improvement so far.

You're likely to get issues with air not being able to transfer into the negative chamber as the transfer port gets blocked with extra grease or oil though.

yeah I'd imagine any volume of grease over the smear in the service instructions would get sucked into the negative chamber, unless you can get it to stay on the sides of the stanchions above the range of the piston.

To use most of the travel allowing some margin for big hits i have to run about 12-15% which makes small bump stuff awful.
If i set the sag to 25% i bottom out the fork a lot and it sits deep in the travel on the steeper stuff. Its got to the point when i do steep runs i turn the compression knob to the middle or even to full compression.

Well I was waiting for you to fess up to something like that.... 🙂
May I suggest 20% sag?
Can you see what I'm getting at?

The grease seems to stay in the top of the air chamber out of reach of the piston. So far it has not migrated down. The pm600 grease is very sticky I've had it up to 100 Degrees and it still wont run. I cant see it getting anywhere near the transfer port. Im still testing this so I cant say long term.

I guess even rolling up some closed cell foam into a plug in the top of the stanchion would work, with a straw down the middle for the air to move through.

What you guys need is the elastomer from and old Judy or Indy fork, throw that in there! 😆

Sadly don't have my old judy's any more!

If you could get foam that started to compress with the increasing air pressure in the last half of the stroke, you could get some nice mid stroke support without shelving too much towards the end. I copyright that idea! © bigjim 2014

I can confirm that using grease does not work it does not stay on the sides of the stanchions above the range of the piston.