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My father has a 2016 Specialized Stumpjumper. I’d like to help him upgrade to 1x11 from the current 2x10 setup.
I’m not local to him so difficult for me to check but the specification lists the bottom bracket and chainset as follows:
Bottom bracket: SRAM, PF30, OS press-in bearings, sealed cartridge
Chainset: Custom SRAM S-1250, 7050 alloy arms, 10-speed double, PF30, 104/64mm BCD spider
He also has quite a lot of pedal strikes so would like to change to 170mm crank arms.
So are there any good options for Shimano or SRAM where I could avoid the need for a new Bottom Bracket or XD Driver given that both are in decent condition and I want to go for something mid-range as performance will be decent and being in his 70s airtime is limited (though ground interfaces still impressively frequent!). Bearing age in mind I would also not want to increase the lowest gear which is currently 22x36.
Any advice appreciated.
I know it’s not quite what you asked, but I’d seriously consider skipping straight to 12s. 11-50 sunrace cassette, slx mech and shifter and a 30t narrow wide should more or less do what you want. Then changing cranks is something you could do on top if you wanted. Otherwise you’d need to drop the chainring even more to get that low bottom, possibly limiting your crank choice.
So put the NW ring on the existing chainset? Which position would it go in? Surely chainline is becoming very critical at 12spd hence I would have expected a 1x chainset to be important.
What are the Sunrace 11-50 cassettes like? I have never been into mix'n'match but I guess it is just a set of cogs at known gaps!
So for that option the shopping list would be:
SLX 12spd shifter
SLX 12spd mech
NW 30T chainring
Sunrace 11-50T 12spd cassette
Aye, that’s the plan. A double would likely have the 104 position a little further out, but 30t rings have an offset built in to fit which should cancel out.
For comparison, I have a works nw ring on an old slx triple crankset, with the 12s slx mech and sifter but a gx cassette. It’s solid.
I haven’t used a 12s sunrace cassette but their 10s stuff was good and their 11s seems to get good reviews here.
No need for 12spd as sunrace do the mx80 which has 11-50t range which saves you buying a new freehub body to accommodate the 12spd cassette.
1x11 kit is also cheaper
The sunrace 12s 11-50 fits a normal freehub. 11s stuff is cheaper, but given a complete drivetrain is going to be bought regardless it surely makes more sense to buy one that is actually designed for the job in hand. I’ve done the stretched rear mech thing for wide range 10s and it’s fine, but never quite as good.
I’d also add that 12s Shimano is just a bit better all round than 11s. Shifters feel nicer, particularly.
So does the 11spd sunrace 11-50... I have it on my bike
I have it with an xt 11spd mech and shifter and its flawless...no stretching of the mech at all
I have the 12 speed sunrace set up and am having trouble setting it up. Currently have slx mech with xtr shifter and shimano chain. I started out with slx shifter and sram eagle chain. The xtr shifter is far superior and so i t should be. Although shifting is better it is nowhere near right.
Probably not a popular view, but why fix what’s not broken? Stick with 2x10...
(Shorter cranks by all means...)
Probably not a popular view, but why fix what’s not broken? Stick with 2×10…
+1
wait until he needs a new drivetrain before swapping. When I switched over I found that the weight saving was minimal. Is a LH shifter really that much of a hassle?
Is a LH shifter really that much of a hassle?
If you've never used x1, probably not. But once you have, it feels very medieval IME.
I had a 2016 Stumpy and went 1 x 10, just removed the front mech and put a new chain, chainring and cassette on it, think the cassette was 11-40 with a 30 up front. Didn't need to buy a new mech or shifter.
The op did specifically ask to keep the current low gear, which makes it a bit challenging to do with a wide range 10 speed. Rough numbers suggest you’d need a 26t chainring on an 11-42 cassette- I’m not someone who feels the need for a high top gear on a Mtb but I think I’d find that frustrating.
Easier with 11, but if you’re going to be buying a whole new drivetrain anyway I don’t see really see why, very tight budget excepted, you wouldn’t jump straight to 12.
(I’m not pushing upgrading for the sake of it- I’ve only got 12s this year because I literally wore out the last two 10s rear mechs I had, to the point that the pivot actually fell out of one).
He also has quite a lot of pedal strikes so would like to change to 170mm crank arms.
A) Is it definitely not a 170mm crank set already?
B) it's not likely to be any bigger than 175mm, will 5mm actually achieve anything other than a lighter wallet?