[Closed] 1x10 tech help please.

Chain too slack? Does it do it on all the sprockets or just the small ones?

what length cage on your rear mech?

Chain length was big to big plus 3 (I wanted room to fit a bigger front ring if necessary.
Cage is a medium.

Plus 3, as in 3 x (narrow bit + wide bit) ?

You've definitely got the narrow/wide bits of the chain on the narrow/wide bits of the ring?

Chain was plus 3 then plus the quick link. Maybe too long.
Yeh narrow wide parts aligned.
I think I may need to measure the chai line at the front from the centre of the bike.
Got a feeling it may be too far over. Would that mess about with the indexing though?

Check the thread I started last night Jon. Similar question(s) and some good advice given by others.

[i]I have one spacer on the drive side and two on the non.[/i]

This is the BB we're talking about?

I'm pretty sure there's meant to be 2 spacers on the drive side and only one on the non d-s.

Cheers, I'll have a look.

Yes Monkeyfiend, bb spacers.
If I put more than one on the drive side it really sits too far across.

If the BB shell is 63mm then you need 3 spacers but it's only 1 on the non d-s and 2 on the d-s.
Having it the other way round will put your chain line out by 3 mm.

definitely a 10 speed chain? Any stiff links?

I wouldn't have thought chainline would really affect indexing. Maybe at the extremes, but I've not come across it. Small variations in chain length shouldn't either. (Assuming your problem is indexing.)

Are you meant to run some 10-speed chains a certain way up? (Not sure that that would make a difference either, unless they taper.)

If it's all new, I'd double check you've not done something silly somewhere.

That's a good point, XT 10 speed chains are directional aren't they?

How that might affect things in the real world I don't know.

isn't the S-works a 73mm bb? in which case, its one spacer on the non driveside BB cup and NONE on the driveside, that'll move your chainline in significantly and probably help, that and your chain is probably too long. Drop all the air out your shock and compress the suspension to set the chain length. you can probably lose 2 links easily..

What he^ said. I can't imagine that frame having a 68mm bb.

Check the B Screw on the mech is also set properly. This even being a little out can have a big effect.

Really appreciate the tips lads. I'll get onto it tomorrow as I'm off work.
So with the suspension compressed that'll be the longest the chain will have to be right?
If I only run two of the bb spacers, the non drive side arm doesn't butt right up to the cup, there's a very small gap. Is that an issue? Will that leave the crank to float?

isn't the S-works a 73mm bb? in which case, its one spacer on the non driveside BB cup and NONE on the driveside,

Wrong. One on the drive side, none on the NDS with 73mm shell. Or no spacers at all if you're running a BB mounted chain guide or e-type front mech.

With 68mm shell its 2 on the drive side, 1 on the NDS. Sounds like the OP's are wrong regardless, which won't be helping things. If you need to shift the whole chainset over 2.5mm then something else is wrong.

Edit: yes, you need the full compliment, floating crank is no good - get a tape measure and check, but sounds like it is 68mm shell, so one NDS, two drive side. If your chain line is to cock with that set up then something else is awry.

Seeing as you described the frame as 'my old S-Works Enduro' It will probably be a 68mm BB, which should have 2 spacers on the drive side and one on the other.

If I put more than one on the drive side it really sits too far across.

When you fitted the NW ring, did you use shorter bolts ? If you re-used the originals then they will bottom out without clamping the ring to the arms, resulting in play in the ring which would cause the noise and possibly the jumping.

Other than that, check chain length (put it in the smallest sprocket and make sure there's no slack) and b-screw adjustment as suggested above.

Its a 2004 enduro. Pretty sure its 68mm too.

I used a set of Middleburn bolts a filled them down so they don't bottom out.

I'm going to measure everything in the morning.

I quickly measured things last night.
From the centre of the BB to the centreline of the chainring is 45mm. That's with one spacer ds and two non ds.
Does that sound any good?

Is the rear mech hanger straight? This is why indexing doesn't work.

With a 68mm BB shell it is 2 spacers on the drive side one on the none drive side.

I really doubt it's your chain line, I'd not worry about that and make sure you have everything installed correctly.

Is the hanger straight- does the mech point straight down?

Have you got the mech installed correctly? Any pictures of how you've installed it? The little mounting tab that bolts.to the frame should pretty much point straight back, its possible to mount it so it points more like down and back at 45degrees.

Have you got the cable to the correct side of the clamping bolt on the mech?

I quickly measured things last night.
From the centre of the BB to the centreline of the chainring is 45mm. That's with one spacer ds and two non ds.
Does that sound any good?

That's not really the issue. Your cranks are offset by 2.5mm, which they shouldn't be. So unless something is bent that'll be causing you issues.

Erm, new shifter / mech / cassette, did you index the gears after fitting?!?

(nobody else asked!)

Ok, looks like i need 47.5mm to the chainring which will mean 2 drive side spacers and one non drive side. Ill try this.

Yeh the indexing was set up.

Im going to re-measure chain length too. Should this be done with the suspension slack (i.e., no air in the rear shock)?

This is the bit to make sure you have pointing straight backwards, if it angles down a bit you can never get the gears shifting properly.

[img] [/img]

Ok, looks like i need 47.5mm to the chainring which will mean 2 drive side spacers and one non drive side. Ill try this.

That's the way it should be.

Big to big plus 3 is too much chain. Max Chain growth doesn't necessaril happen at fully compressed suspension, you need to measure it all the way through the swing arm cycle. It might be longest at halfway through the curve or whatever. B screw adjustment is also crucial- a few mm too close to the bottom tooth in any gear will screw up shifting, and run noisily/jumpy. Too far away will mean not enough chain wrapped on the cogs to run nice and tight.

Right, just spent an hour and a half in the garage. Taken a link out of the chain, checked the chainline which isn't too bad. Checked the rear hanger and mech we're in the correct position.

With the bike upside down, whilst measuring this and that, I saw some odd rub marks on the BB where the gear cable runs. When I'd replaced all the cabling, like a tool, I'd not accounted for rear suspension travel (this is my 1st full sus). Consequently, when the rear suspension moves, the cable outer was too tight resulting in "auto" shifting!

I'd kept the old gear cables and shifters just in case, and when I compared the old and the new sections, the new was considerably shorter. Lesson learned.

Hopefully I'll get a spin on it this afternoon to check but I'm 99% certain this is the problem.

Many thanks for all the advice received.

Cheers, Jon

Have you actually changed the spacers on the BB? Again, they're wrong at the moment, so I would, or address the issue which has led to you have your chainset offset.

Just been out for a quick spin. Everything now working as it should after making all the mods suggested.
Cheers chaps!