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My CAADX needs some tlc ahead of the upcoming season, so going to go 1x10 on the drivetrain. Is there a clutch mech out there that will work with a tiagra STI shifter?
If there isn't, will a normal road mech and a narrow-wide chainring do the business in a CX race?
I run a normal mech and a NW ring, with a Hope chainguide and it never drops a chain. For me, this is a better solution than a clutch setup.
The only mechs that have clutches are MTB, which have a different cable pull to road STI.
I run a 38t Superstar I/O ring, a 11-32 SLX 10 speed cassette, 105 10 speed shifters & 105 CX ear mech, get the chain short enough, but not too short. Quite a common set up in the NW league (models may vary)
I haven't dropped a chain yet while racing or battering around on trails.
You can run a Shimano clutch mech with road shifters if you use a Lindarets Tanpan, but to be honest, with a short mech & chain it's not really necessary for racing.
No
I've been using a normal road mech with a nice short chain and the B tension up for the last year and never dropped the chain (38 wolf tooth front, 11-40 rear)
I don't race* but ride some pretty rough trails
Gevenalle do a 10 speed shifter that does work with an MTB clutch mech
*well I did once, I sucked
42 + 10spd 11-36 here, chainguide and standard rings/mech, pretty sure I've never dropped a chain, I really like it. If you're racing you may want to drop the F ring size a bit, but for normal riding there's still top end speed for road sections and I've not felt over geared on any [i]rideable*[/i] xc climbs.
*ie one I can get up on my mtb with lower gears.
Edit - I ran a 9spd slx shadow mech originally, worked perfect, couldn't find one when I replaced the drivechain recently, got a long cage 10spd 105 on there currently, bit clunky getting into biggest sprocket but it does work.
Thanks all - simple road mech and a narrow wide sounds like the place to start.
simple road mech and a narrow wide sounds like the place to start.
Worked for me. Now upgraded to 11sp hydros and using a tanpan with a zee rear mech and 10s 11-36, eventual plan to go to 11-40 11s.
A NW chainring makes most difference IMO.
My cranks bit the dust earlier this year and I was doing an event the next day so used the triple chainset and cranks off my wife's bike -dropped the chain a couple of times (clutch mech in off position) and once with clutch on.
I've yet to drop the chain using a NW chainring with clutch on or off.
Yes.
Use the Lindarets Wolftooth tanpan and run a shimano clutch mech. Or just a 'road link' to extend the cassette range on a short road mech. I've done both and both work.
You can always move the cage spring to the stiffer setting on a regular shimano road mech to help as well
whats this road link thing? does that mean I can get a range similar to an mtb cassette with a road cassette using a road shifter?
It means you can run a mtb cassette (I've run 11-36 and 11-40 on a ss 105 mech) with a road mech. The advantage of the tanpan is the use of a clutch as big cassettes on short mechs is a bit slappy on high gears.
I ran normal Shimano road mech with the cage spring on the stiffer setting and a n/w ring up front last season and had no issues at all.
I'm just about to setup my tripster in CX race mode with 1x11. Bought some 2nd hand ultegra cranks and a 34t superstar NW chainring..
How do you change the cage spring setting?
My crosser gets ragged round mtb trails with NW and short cage 105 mech, not dropped a chain yet
How do you change the cage spring setting?
See step 7 :-
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-overhaul#article-section-3
Thanks
A rival 10 speed shifter and an x9 clutch mech will also work. Bit more spendy than changing the tension spring though