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Ive been running 1x10 since last October but in the last 3 months I've gone through 3 chains,they just keep on splitting,it rips the rivet out of the hole,I do need new jockey wheels which have lots of play in them,would this be the problem?
I'm running a 34t N/W hope chainring and an xt cassette with slx clutch mech,the chain I'm running at the moment is a deore,any one have an idea why this is happening,thank you in advance.
Too much bend in the chain popping it open?
I have tried to line it up the best I can,but maybe your right,I'll have another fettle,are there N/W specific chains,the N/W really makes my chainset sound Grindy like it's under a lot of pressure constantly,I've even put a couple of extra links in but still the same.
How are you joining the chain?
Shimano says that you can't reuse the pin in the chain and that you need to use their special replacement pins.
I prefer KMC missing links.
Normal chains, I don't think there is a N/W chain available.
Has it always been Deore chains? Did you buy all 3 at the same time (bad batch maybe)? I run SRAM chains with no issue.
EDIT: Can you check the width of the teeth on the chainring? Off chance it's out of tolerance.
Chainline issues stressing the chain in the lower gears, I.e when most torque is going through the system"
Is it a double chainset?
Joeg I used the same pin so that might be a factor,I've had a sram and a knc chain previously and all came to the same fate,I will check width and so fourth,thanks for the feedback.
Move your bb inboard on the drive side to improBe your chain line if I were you.
ricky1 am suffering similar issue to you, all new kit but seem to be snapping chains.
Improvements so far have included ditching XT double to SLX triple, replacing a slightly bent RD hanger and fitting RARr cage to XT clutch RD. Had thought that would be it but with the last near snap noticed play in BB so not sure if this contributed to issues but will swap spacer to non-drive side when replace.
Running out of ideas. Good luck with yours.
You can't reuse 10 speed pins. They enlarge the hole in the outer plate when removed. That means that its weaker than it should be if the pin is reinstalled. I tried it on one of mine (SRAM, IIRC) when I had a stiff link, and it broke a month later.
Shimano's replacement pins are just a bit larger to deal with the issue. I bought something like this:
[url= http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121575696490?lpid=82&chn=ps ]http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121575696490?lpid=82&chn=ps[/url]
As above, don't reuse the pins. The heads are mushroom shaped and leave the hole oversized.
Use either the oversize pin that comes with shimano chains, or the quick connect links which come with most other chains.
Dirty dog it's a single ring,
Dog lover your predicament rules out the narrow wide theory being the problem,hope you sort it.
So we have come to the conclusion that if a shimano chain snaps whilst out on the trail it's as good as scrap,unless you use a new shimano pin?
Or a quick link. I've found most 10 speed chains don't reconnect very well these days, but quick links work great so not really an issue.
I had a complete XT 2x10 setup. When I switched to 1x10 (same BB, cranks, cassette and mech) I moved the sole BB spacer from the DS to the NDS, [u]and[/u] got some 8mm chainring bolts and 2mm chainring spacers to move it in 2mm, so moving it 4.5mm inwards in total. This works fine.