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been given an old rigid mountain bike that doesnt look like its been used.
i'm thinking about setting it up as 1x8(its 24 speed) with a view to setting it up single speed for commuting/winter etc.
will i be ok to use the middle chainring that's already on,or will i have to buy one?
also any other tips for setting up a single speed on the cheap?
thanks
Depends, what's the plan?
Keep mech as a chain guide?
Presumably non clutched mech.
Just for commuting then probably not too many chain drops
It will be OK, but not ideal - chain is more likely to jump off. better to get a tall-tooth, unramped sprocket. FSA do one that's cheap and good. Or Surly do a stainless steel jobby that's £more, but will last for ever.
Depends how worn the chainring is. Teeth aren't as deep on a shifting chainring, so may be more prone to slippage / unseating on bumpy stuff. Frankly, for the price of a ss specific one (£15 at On-one), my nuts are worth more.
Other tips - get a complete converter kit from Charliethebikemonger or on-one.
As above, SS encourages much higher torques than normal, there's good reason why singlespeeders obsess over things like chainline, and spend as much as a cheap cassette on a single sprocket!
On one chainring (£15-£20), KMC Z610 chain, wide based sprocket (£15-£20), and some spacers and a tensioner (I like the sprung ones for lack of adjustments needed).
I used a Blackspire Stinger as a chain tensioner on my SS, which also came in handy for going 1x9.
thanks for the replies,
just had a look at On-One,and you get a singlespeed kit with a cog and 2 spacers(16mm and 18mm i think) for £5.99
kmcS1 chain £2.99
doofer £9.99
if i do that and and reuse the middle chain ring,leaving the front derailor to act as chain guide.Will this be ok?
Get a wide base rear sprocket, don't use the cheap thin ones as they will eat the freehub
agreed if it's an ali freehub but an "old rigid mountain bike" probably has a steel freehub.Get a wide base rear sprocket, don't use the cheap thin ones as they will eat the freehub
cheapest possible method:
For 1x just remove unwanted front rings and shifter, leave the dérailleur on as a chainguide but move it lower down to help retention (unless you have another device ready to go on) you should be able to use limit screws or a short section of cable from the last cable stop to the dérailleur to set it in the right position.
For SS you could possibly split the cassette and use the current transmission (I have done before) but you don't want anything slipping while gurning up a steep hill so if your drivechain is quite worn yeah probably get a proper SS ring (steel if poss) and cog, any speed chain, you can use an old rear mech as a doofer and if you're neat with a hacksaw waste pipe from a DIY store can be used to space out the cog on the freehub.
I have been a single speed rider for years. I have never used a single ring specific chainring. Always a normal ramped and pinned chainring. Currently I have a 36T TA specialites ring on my 29er running to a 17t cog.
In all my years of single speeding I have never ever dropped a chain.
Perfect chainline is key which is my my latest has a royce BB so I can adjust the chainline to get it perfect. Yes us single speeders are obbessive but you dont start that way it happens over time.
I am experimenting with a 10 speed chain currently but stretch looks like it is an issue so I think I will be going back to something like the KMC 610 or similar.
You do not need a front mech as a guide. I have never had a guide never needed one I use my SS for off road use only.
The BB mounted tensioners I have found to be a bit of pain. Had a black spire one once and adjusting it was a not fiddly but not something I did not relish as rounding the bolts always concerned me. Eventually a bolt did round off and that was a pain. I know it is avoidable but the bolts get filled with dirt and in a rush mistakes happen. Went back to a rear hanger mounted one after that. Now I use an EBB and thats even better.
so it is doable without a big spend but there is no need for guides special chainrings. all you need is good parts that are not worn then enjoy and you really will.
Any issues using a NW chain ring?
TBH this is a good point, I've used plenty of none SS rings [i]but[/i] if you're buying a ring specifically for this then you may aswell get an SS one all other things being equal. [s]Plenty of SS and NW rings available for same price or cheaper than ramped and pinned.[/s] scratch that, just checked deore steel ring £10 OO SS £15 so no not the same price.I have never used a single ring specific chainring
unless you're using a half link for chain tension I can't see an issueAny issues using a NW chain ring?
I wouldn't bother with the chain. I've always used 8spd chains on my MTB SS.
Hang on he said 1x8, not SS.
Am I wrong in thinking that a SS chainring would be different to NW?
he said 1x with a view to SSHang on he said 1x8, not SS.
Not wrong, similar profile but SS wont have the alternating wide teeth.Am I wrong in thinking that a SS chainring would be different to NW?
Yes. 2 reasons in addition to the obvious one above.
One, a SS chainring might be slightly wider, because typically you'll use it with a ss chain (1/8") although I have also used 8/9 spd chains (3/32") on a SS chainring without an issue.
Second, a NW is designed for 10spd systems with a tight fit around the inner and outer plates from the narrow and wide teeth.
I reckon you could run a 9 or 8 speed chain on a NW but maybe wouldn't have exactly the right tolerances to get best benefit of the NW tech, running a 10 spd chain on a SS chainring might just be a bit too tight.
My pub bike for the past 5 years has been a singlespeed rigid hardtail MTB with the middle chainring from a triple chainset, cheap single cog adapter kit, no chain tensioner and a variety of BMX, 8 speed and 9 speed chains. It's fine. Try it like that first before trying to fix problems that probably won't exist.
Try it like that first before trying to fix problems that [s]probably[/s] possibly won't exist.
Having had one give way, my nuts are retracting already at the memory. I wouldn't risk it; YMMV 😉
running my cx 1x10 with a surly 42t SS ring, no probs 🙂 I think some other sized surly rings are thicker tho - cant remember if it's the larger or smaller ones. Was meaning to test it with an OO ss ring, not had chance to yet, no idea about 11 speed.running a 10 spd chain on a SS chainring might just be a bit too tight.
There are 1/8" rings/cogs that presumably won't fit an 8/9 speed chain on but they are pretty rare mostly track I think, most stuff seems to be 3/32" or narrower.
Obviously NW tech not needed on SS but if they are a comparable price to SS stuff I can't see a problem with them - and if OP is thinking switching 1x and ss regularly they may actually be a better choice.
Thanks again for the replies,I'm going to try and pick some smaller chainring bolts up over the weekend.
how do i use the rear derailor as a doofer?
cheers
A fresh faced Charlie says...