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I don't think so really. So, Ohlins fork axle and pinch bolt both spec 6Nm torque. Have always used the torque wrench on them up to now. Just treat myself to a Park 5Nm preset driver for stems etc. Thought it would be handy in the car/van. Just wondering if I could safely use it on the axle bolts. Just gave it a try and the wrench at 6Nm turns the bolts about 2 degrees further than the 5Nm driver. Not a lot really but I suppose it's actually 20% less torque which sounds a lot. Might give it a try, pretty sure I will notice if axle starts to loosen. OH says I overthink things. Is she right??
a tiny tweak after 5Nm should be pretty darn close. I'd be happy.
I would say you'll be fine.
All this talk of torque is good for consistency, but you'll get a similar variation in torque applied (possibly more) depending on things like how clean the threads are & whether there is any lubrication used which never seems to get a mention.
I wouldn't have an issue with setting to 5Nm. Perhaps just check it relatively often to start with.
Can't believe you are even considering it.
Horribly, several times.
Wow. Whatever you do don’t watch the news 😀.
5nm will be fine.
You'll be fine, I never torqued down the pinch bolts or axle on my Ohlins, just nipped up.
If you really want to overthink it, does Ohlins specify a rotation speed and thread condition?
How do you know your Park Tools wrench is actually 5 nm? Have you had the calibration checked? It could be off. Maybe it's 6 nm? Maybe it's 4 nm? In which case you could die!
All of these things would keep me awake at night....
@SirHC I hadn't thought of that..hmm!! Hah! I love this forum! Cheers guys! @woodlikesbikes my Norbar wrench is fairly new with calibration certificate, would you believe the first thing I did when I got the Park was check it with the Norbar and it was either 5 or 5.1 depending on how I held it. I know, I need to get a life!
Have we even consider if this is with or without threadlock?!?!?
flames, flames and death. deathflames
your doomed.
I’m a serial under-tourquer and always view stated torque figures as maximum permissible figures. Especially with 4/6 nm settings in alloy fittings, never had an issue with things coming loose.
Try nipping up say,steering stem bolts with a normal sized Allen key and then get the torque wrench on them, it’s a worry sometimes how tight 6nm feels on a tiny bolt.
Tighten then up then mark the bolts with a permanent marker/tippex to see if they start to work loose.
In bicycle world the Torque specification is generally the maximum, which is the key thing - If it were an airplane wing the specification would be more exacting. I frequently slightly under Torque things by 1NM like carbon seat posts, stem/steerer, bars to protect them - with appropriate grip paste where necessary, have never had an issue- am still here.
This has just reminded me to torque the stem pinch bolts and faceplate bolts on Son No.1's new bike, Spesh specify 5.2Nm, but I've gone for 5Nm - hope he's OK or the wife will kill me
To be on the safe side you need one of these! Farmer’s nip innit..😀
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I don't have a torque wrench. I interpret 5nm as 'a little bit tight'. Am I going to die?
I don’t have a torque wrench. I interpret 5nm as ‘a little bit tight’. Am I going to die?
You're a brave person if you're tightening down on carbon components and frame tubes by feel, get a X-Tools one, they're only about £25
I bought a torque wrench to finally do my pivot bolts properly. I then took it into the shop to have something else done only for them to point out how much i had over tightened the pivot bolts.
@steve_b77
Brave meaning stupid, eh?
No carbon for me. I'll check out your rec though, I've been meaning to get one.
I bought a torque wrench to finally do my pivot bolts properly. I then took it into the shop to have something else done only for them to point out how much i had over tightened the pivot bolts
….and just how did they know this? Sounds like bike shop mechanic spiel if you ask me. No-one in their right mind backs out a bolt with a torque wrench.
i just tighten it up until it goes loose, then back it off a bit
Pivot bolts on my bike spec thread lock so will always take more the get them out. That bike shop comment seems odd.
Besides, correct torque is until it snaps and then back it off half a turn.
You always need more torque to back a bolt off.
That bike mechanic is talking toss.
Giant told me that my pivot bolts were overtightened.
Which was odd considering I'd not touched them from new.
Seeing as the thru axle is a lower torque than most maxle's I'd torque the bolt to 6nm, I treated myself to a Topeak torq box, nice little tool you can take with you on your ride along with a multi tool or just a 5mm Allen key. I got the box with 4,5,6nm torq heads with a few most used bits, but you can get them singularly.