[Closed] 160mm Frame up to £1500, what is there?

Banshee Rune.

Transition Covert, Cotic Rocket or SC Heckler.

Yeah, I was actually supposed to be getting the Rune as a replacement frame, but long-story-short ended up with a refund instead. Haven't ruled that out, but thinking there might be cheaper options out there and weighing up going second hand instead, which I couldn't do on the new Rune.

Very tempted with the Mojo HD as I can set it up 160/140 for smaller stuff, then swap a few bits to give me 180/160 when I'm in the Lakes etc. I'm moving up from a 160/130 bike, so either options would be as capable. Negative is obviously that £1k is a lot to spend on a second hand frame.

Covert is an option, I was trying to get a swap to a Covert rather than a refund, but now I've got the refund everything is back on the table.

+1 for the Cotic Rocket. Lovin' mine.

Nukeproof Mega AM 2013 with a Double Barrel Air/Coil will be available halfway through this month - 1099 with a Monarch Plus should you want to spend less.

Buy a new bike with a warranty, it's harder to tell whether a second hand carbon frame has been abused in terms of cracks etc.

The Mojo is also somewhat old school in terms of it's geometry compared to a Mega, a Rocket, Orange Alpine 160 or a Speccy Enduro Evo (not sure you can buy a frameset though). It will be less capable on the downs setup at 180/160 than any of the former bikes setup with 160 front and back. Higher BB, steeper head angle, shorter wheelbase etc.

The new Mega does look very good, it could be an option...

Should be stiffer around the head tube/front frame compared to my old model Mega due to the hydroformed large diameter tubing (although I personally never felt it was soft anyway), bit lighter and rocking 160mm of slightly more supple travel. Basically they've improved an already great bike although I wish they had stuck to 152 of travel as it seemed a little bit more of a jack of all trades number - although I guess it won't make much difference in the end to peddling efficiency.

Ok, I'm maybe sold. When are they due, where's best to buy one and will anyone chuck in a free reverb?? The Mega won't mind a 180 fork will it, I've seen someoene running one before and no one died, but is it rated up to 180?

IMO I would buy the Monarch version for 1099, so you have a lightweight air shock with a 3 position compression adjust so you can select for peddling efficiency on climbs....then I'd buy a coil CCDB secondhand. And have two shock options for the price of the new bike with a CCDB.

It's rated for a 180 fork but if you're using a tapered steerer it will end up more raked out than a boxxer, it's only advisable to use one with a 1 1/8th zero stack headset. In fact I don't see the point of 180mm single crowns for precisely this reason, you may as well run a dual crown for the A2C height.

It will be work and ride just fine as long as you can use a zero stack headset though - as it will run the height 160mm fork with a non-zero stack headset.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=81836

22nd of April at CRC although I could have sworn some places were going to have them in stock by mid march....could have been delayed. Can you hold off for a month? If not, despite what everyone says about Orange...I'd go with an Alpine 160. It get's rave reviews in mags and from more downhill oriented types....I've also ridden one and can attest that it's every bit as good as people say it is.

The sexiest colour is definitely the yellow, the decals on the black and silver models look gopping.

[img] [/img]

DMR bolt - can run it ss too!
Cotic rocket - but i went for a covert in the end as the 2011 frames can found dirt cheap

I fancy a nukeproof too but the graphics are awful. I know it shouldn't matter but they look like Argos £99 specials.

160/140 is fine for the lakes BTW - never felt underbiked on my Pitch with 36 vans.

Orange Alpine 160. Biased as i own one, but they are reasonable climbers and they just plough through everything on the downs.

I've been riding 127mm at the back in the Lakes no issues, in fact no issues riding my hard tail in the Lakes to be honest. I've been bottoming out quite a lot though and bent a couple of rims as a result. Given the other bikes I've got it makes sense to get a proper long-travel bike for that sort of stuff and I've never had such a long travel trail bike before, so it'll be a bit of an adventure. Might as well retain the option of 180 forks though, whether I fit some or not as it's no different pushing a bigger fork up a hill!

Not in any rush to be honest, got a few things going on at the moment so it won't matter if I don't have a bike for a while.

Get a good deal on a Commencal Meta AM?

I like mine 😀

http://www.pinkbike.com/video/294883

Just de-cal the mega - sure there was a pic of one knocking around

To be honest I really like the graphics on the Black frame and the Yellow one looks good too, so not bothered about all that.

Just de- decalling mine at the mo- its true, stickers should be understated not so many as to hide the frame

Just de-cal the mega

A bit of a stupid question but how do you go about taking the de-cals of a frame?

I have a mega and would quite like to take off most of the graphics.
Great bike BTW.

Might as well retain the option of 180 forks though, whether I fit some or not as it's no different pushing a bigger fork up a hill!

If you've never had a long travel bike, what have you had the 66s attached to lol?

Make sure you don't **** the geo of your new bike with them. The Mega will be fine as long as they are 1 1/8th and you run a zero stack headset. The Alpine 160 can unfortunately only take a 160mm fork, but this is a really good bike. The Patriot can take 180mm forks but the versatility isn't there.

I used to run an SX trail with 180mm Totems at the front and 170mm of coil damped travel at the rear. My old style Nukeproof Mega is way more capable on descents despite being a single pivot air shock equiped 160mm front/150mm rear travel. It feels more of a mini-downhill bike than the SX Trail did and that's solely down to it's travel and well balanced suspension setup.

Just de- decalling mine at the mo- its true, stickers should be understated not so many as to hide the frame

Heh, this is why I bought a 2010 model as opposed to the 2011/2012 models. The original decals were way wayyyyy nicer.

Now the warranty is out, she's going to get sprayed Duck Egg Blue with orange highlight's and orange stencil lettering. In the LeMan Gulf/Steve McQueen colors.

Gonna be schaweeeet!

2013 Mega a/m for me, especially as I have one on order in the best colour........Yellow !
I have now been told its gonna be the end of April now though 😕
Been on order since Jan, maybe I shouldn't have sold the 2012 one so quickly.

I'd get the mojo for that price. Lovely frame.

I wouldn't risk dropping 1.5k on a second hand carbon frame - it could end in tears. If you buy second hand make sure you don't care about losing the amount of money you're spending.

Plus Mojo's really are overrated.......oooh look....Carbon...shiney shiney shiney.....

How about a [url= http://welovemountains.com/mondraker-dune-rr-frame-only ]Mondraker Dune[/url]?

I've had one for a couple of weeks now and although I've only ridden it a couple of times so far love it.

It climbs very well when seated with no bobbing and going down the other side after is an absolute blast. I've got Lyriks on mine and the combo is marvellous.

Not that I'm biased or anything....

Leaning away from second hand to be honest, but might keep an eye on eBay and see if something daft comes up around the £5-600 mark, or complete bikes up to £1500. The Mojo is ex-demo, so the shop should stand behind it as if it was a new frame, but that would be something to discuss anyway. The black Mega with yellow wheels though, that would look pretty sweet wouldn't it.

I've not got any 66s yet, but I'd like a bike I can use some on then I can buy some 🙂 Pretty easy to swap forks over and on a push-up blast down route they should work pretty well.

Looking at the Dune now....

Bare in mind the Dune is designed with something called Forward Geometry, the bike is uber long (1200mm wheelbase, which is as long as a world cup downhill bike) and has a very very long cockpit. To counter this it comes with a 10mm stem. It will be a bit different....you might find the wheelbase has taken new school geometry a bit to extreme....as such I would recommend a ride on one and make sure you can adjust to it compared to what you are used to. Although I've heard some good things about the bike.

Is the 215x63.5 shock length on the Dune a none standard proprietary length?

Bare in mind the Dune is designed with something called Forward Geometry

No it's not.

Mondraker offer only the XR model with the Forward Geometry. All the other models are 'normal' (Summum excluded).

Ahhh yeah.....thought all the framesets were. Nevermind then!

Also OP, 180mm forks really are over rated. The Totems I had seemed to flex more than my domains and lyriks both laterally and in the steering/stem interface. I put this down to the increase in forces being put through fork due to the higher A2C height.

I really see no point in them - if you go to 180mm forks you may as well get a bike that is capable of taking dual crowns. Spend the money on a really quality set of 160mm or 170mm forks. The Dual Position Air Lyriks would be ace at 2200 grams with instantly adjustable ride height for climbing.

Here's a good read. http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Pinkbike-Poll-Long-Travel-Single-Crown-Forks-2013.html

My Totems resulted in sod all bump damping improvements compared to my Lyriks and ended up making the bike heavier.

What Hob Nob said.

Mine came with a 50mm stem but to be honest I prefer it with something a bit longer, so I'm running 70 and it feels great.

The BB centre to rear axle is exactly the same length as my old GT ID5 which was only 130mm travel, too.

A bit of a stupid question but how do you go about taking the de-cals of a frame?

I have a mega and would quite like to take off most of the graphics.
Great bike BTW.

If it's just stickers - heat gun. Basically a hair dyer for real men.

Bit of heat but not too much and peel away but this was for a battered set of fox forks the stickers are an inch thick!!!

Is that a custom shock length? If it is, I wouldn't go near one as A) It's going to be hilarious getting a coil in the right size for Alps sessions B) If the air can assplodes out in the Alps/Scotland....good luck getting another one shipped out to you quickly.

That is if the shock is a custom length though.

They are taking the imperial (8.5x2.5) a bit too literally.

It's a normal 215x63 shock.

Sorry for the hijack Rocky.

But seeing as this is a 160mm bike thread i'm gonna ask for some advice/recommend your own forks..

Currently running 09 36 talas on the covert - they are decent forks for trail centre's and smoother trails but make up very little of the riding i do. But relentless rocky stuff i.e peaks/cumbria trails they are crap - long story short.

shortlist of replacement forks
1. marz 55 rc3 ti - would be the ultimate if i can find a 2010 set s/h but no travel adjust
2. X-fusion vengence hlr coil with the U-turn mod - on par with the 55's just don't fancy being the guinea pig, yet
3. RS lyriks - not of a of RS forks but this seem to tick all the boxes and pretty much everyone running them are v.happy with them - but there seems to be so many versions - anyone running them and how do they compare etc..

Guess it's all down to looks then! If the OP doesn't care for trying all the bikes out....it might be worth having a look at sizing numbers, whether a coil will fit the bike's he looks at (if he want's one) and look at and understand the leverage ratio/path of the rear suspension. And how all of these will affect the bike.

Quick guide for the OP:

* Head Angle - slacker (lower) = more stable handling at high speed. (66 degree's is nice and slack for an enduro bike)

* Wheelbase - the longer the more stable the bike is at high speed and the easier it is to ride down steep rocky terrain. On the negative side, it takes more effort to ride the bike in slow technical singletrack.

* BB height. The lower it is the more stable the bike will feel in a corner - but the chance of pedal strikes increases. 13.5 is a good compromise. 14 is a little bit high for me IMO.

* Top tube length - the longer it is the more stretched out you will feel. It will make you feel less prone to going over the front on steep terrain - the negative....it can make your back hurt and fatigue you as you have to squat over the bike more to load up the front when getting it to steer.

* Chainstay length - the shorter the better. It makes the bike easier to manual.

Lastly make sure you get the right fit for your height.

Rear suspension - try to find out if it's design is how you like it. Ie.....does it ramp up a lot towards the end....is it quite linear....does it wallow in the mid stroke. A good place to start is to babelfish this link.

http://linkagedesign.blogspot.co.uk/

On the decal removal-the mega ones are pretty thick as well so hair dryer or (gentle ) heat gun
Peel back the stickers and if your lucky the glue will come off with the vinyl- if not the vinyl will peel away leaving a thick glue residue
I started on this with proper sticky label remover but used a whol can on just the front triangle so then just soaked a rag in petrol, laid it over each decal one by one and used a plastic ice scraper and lots of elbow grease
Ive had some NP decals made in orange slightly smaller than the original font and that is all its having so all black with a few ano orange parts plus white forks( wanted black but couldnt find any lyriks at the time)
I warn you it took me a week of eveningsto properly clear the glue residue off so wear gloves and keep room ventilated due to petrol fumes

RS lyriks - not of a of RS forks but this seem to tick all the boxes and pretty much everyone running them are v.happy with them - but there seems to be so many versions - anyone running them and how do they compare etc..

The Lyriks will be by far the easiest to get parts for. I have a set of coil U-turns, they're great and feel like a small set of Boxxers. The 55's are supposedly a bit more buttery but good luck finding replacement cartridges etc to keep handy on big trips abroad.

My current line of thinking is to buy an Avalanche cartridge to get them as buttery as some old school marz forks, user servicable - plus plenty of parts like springs, seals, maxles etc still readily available.

TBH any of the forks you listed will be a massive step up on the Talas forks - The x-fusions have a higher A2C height for the given travel though - the 160mm is as long as a 170mm Lyrik and the 170mm is as long as a 180mm Totem. The latter will rake your bike out horribly.

Ha ha, thanks for all the info! I've never tried a bike before taking the plunge and never had any issues with anything I've bought. I have a good enough grasp of the numbers and you can always tweak stuff to get it to ride exactly how you want it. I don't think I'm particularly sensitive to bike setups anyway as I've tried loads of people's bikes and not tried much that felt wrong at all. I'm coming from a Banshee Spitfire, which is set up slightly slacker than the Mega, similar length and lower BB. I think the Mega TR is pretty much as close a match to that frame, but I fancy something a bit different this time. and would say BB around 13.5" as the Spitfire is a little low. One thing I really like about the Spitfire is having more travel at the front, seems to suit the way I ride really well, which is why I am leaning towards having a 180 option on the 160 frame really. Would be as a second pair of forks though as they'll be a pain to pedal.

I know someone that rides 180s on a Mega in the Lakes and loves it, I'll take on board what you've said, but will likely end up answering the question through trial and error as it'll niggle me if I don't try it! Can always punt the 66s on again if they don't work.

Banks, get Lyrik coil u-turns. Doesn't matter too much on year as they've not changed much, mine are 2009 and have been pretty much faultless for 3 years now. Easy to maintain yourself, very adjustable, stiff and great performance. You're looking at £250 to 300 second hand, loads will tell you not to risk second hand, but if you can inspect them before and you know how to service a fork you'll be ok.

Also you can mod the U-turns to 170mm whilst keeping the travel adjust....google it.

It's then the ultimate fork....170mm of coil assisted travel adjust goodness. Just ways half a pound heavier than the DPA's.

In fact Paul, **** the 180mm forks mate...just do the mod. 10mm of travel is not worth the weight and hassle of swapping them over.

Mojo hd owner here, so obvious bias, but i dont think you could go too wrong with one. The frame is bullet proof, angles are great, but if you want it slacker or longer then fit an angleset to take the head angle down to ~65degrees/extend the wheelbase by 15mm or so.

Will take 180mm fork if you want . Can be built light but still long travel, tough.

Mine has been crashed ,dropped,generaly battered ,but is showing no issues.

Ibought my frame brand new for £1800, some shops will haggle if you make them an offer.

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Avalanche-Racing-Fork-Replacement-Cartridge-Kit-2012.html

Gonna put one of these beasties in my U-turn lyrik Lyrik and then mod it to 135-170mm instead of 125-160.

I've got a set of the vengence 160s and they are huge! Got them for 200quid because the kid wanted some kashmir fox.

Rocky that's looking like the plan. There a chap selling some 2011 or 2009 coils in altringham for <300 gonna ring loco and make a decision then. Can always stuff the extra bits in the lyriks later.

Mini-boxers are spot on, it's exactly what i want. The spare part thing doesn't bother me but can't seem to find many unhappy people who run lyriks - i may have to change my opinion.

For sure, get the second hand Lyriks if they havn't been abused to hard. Then if they are u-turns fettle with the spacer mod http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/can-you-make-160mm-lyrik-170mm-611758.html and drop in a avy damper at a later date when you have the money.... if you want to mess around with things like mid stroke damping etc.

They really would be beasts then....but the stock fork is great as well.

Aslo, sometimes you can pick up OEM Lyrik R's brand new for 350ish.

Covert FTW. Was out mine tonight, such a capable bike, happy on the ups, awesome on the downs..

Ooooh, what's this mod then? Sounds like a good answer!

While I'm here, Angleset vs off-set bushes, any thoughts? Off-set is easier to remove and adjustable, but issues with wear? What do most people go for?

Angleset. Offset bushings are shit, rotate and wear....then again there have been issues with anglesets.

Also, I don't think Canecreek do a 44mm 1.5 tapered angleset. There is another company that say they do, the owner posted on here. I'll try and dig up the post.

I gave a link to the mod, it's a little spacer in the assembly the allows the spring to compress more - as the U-turn springs are capable of compressing beyond 160mm of travel. I'll contact Loco at somepoint as to regards to whether he can machine me the spacers.

My goal is to get my Mega to 31/32lb with a CCDB on the back and a 170mm u-turn Lyrik at the front with an Avy Cart. I'm going to round the upgrade off with a pair of 35mm wide syntace wheels and to lose some weight a 42 10 speed rear cassette from Italy for ghetto single chain ring XXI - it'll be great. A lightish poppy mini-dh bike that is fully coil damped with buttery smooth old school marzocchi style travel.

Yeah, thanks, I've just seen the link now, will investigate further. Keep me in the loop re Loco please, I imagine it's more of a goer if there's more demand and I would definitely want one or two spacers. I know a few people that would also be interested.

Works Components do suitable angle-adjusting headsets, disadvantage is you need to decide what angle you want, whereas with the offsets you can experiment a bit more. At £40 a set it might be worth using them to find out what angle headset you want perhaps. Offsets drop the BB too, which might be useful on some frames or a disadvantage on others. I don't know what people are running though. Offsets on my GT Fury seem to trash DU bushes quite quickly, but the offsets themselves (titanium) haven't been damaged.

Had so many problems with offset bushings in my old mans nomad, rotation, the tolerance was way out etc.

Do they not just rotate by default into the slackest orientation?

Does anyone do an ISCG05 front mech mount and does anyone know how this would pedal?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2012-Transition-TR250-Mountain-Bike-Frame-Fox-Shock-Medium-Brand-New-Stock-/271111953325?pt=UK_Bikes_GL&hash=item3f1f881bad

🙂

No, one of them rotated downwards (wtf) into a position that made it half a degree slacker instead of fully slack. We measured it, it definately was not the slackest position.

The TR250....is a beast. You could...theoretically.... build it to a decent weight with air shocks front and rear when setup in 160mm mode. But I seem to remember the wheelbase is then actually shorter than a Mega...which kind of defeats the point.

I did think about going down that route! Stunning looking bike though.

Rocky - the offer of demoing me covert still stands - not out any evenings this week as i've been out in the day. Fwiw my covert has come out lighter the the remedy 9 it replaced despite nearly all of the parts being swapped over and rides a lot better, if you know what i mean.

I know a lad who's stuck a reverb on his 250 - 66s & a CCDB - manages fine up hill. Don't see him going down

Don't tell me stuff like that FFS! That TR250 makes NO sense surely?? I'll have to keep telling myself I DO need a granny ring and not one of these mega-mega range rear cassettes instead. It's too heavy, definitely too heavy. FFS!

Will give you a shout if I fancy a go out on the Covert, to be honest I was looking at them because I wasn't expecting a refund and they're the best 160 frames the shop sells. I'll probably be out with the club a week on Tuesday if you fancy popping out?

Let me put it this way, unless you're an uber strong rugby player type then it'll be a bastard. I prefer exploring and my Totem'd 36lb SX Trail used to really piss me off. The 2.5 dual ply's didn't help though.

I can keep up with 90 percent of hardtail riders when I'm out on my Mega, sporting a 2.35 Single-Ply super tacky High Roller up front and a 60A High Roller at the back.

I could never EVER do that with my SX - it was murderous - even with a freaking granny. Plus when you do ride such a rig everyone expects you to be a hardcore Josh Bender type....instead if your not doing 20 foot drops then you'll feel like a freeride walt.

However the silly 40 tooth cassettes make a lot of sense to me - nice way to drop nearly a lb of the weight and enjoy the jumps more!

I used to hack a Bullit with 888s on all over the place, that pedalled like shit but I coped ok. TR250 would be a little heavier but should pedal a bit better I'd think. Maybe the Bullit was steep enough to reign the travel back in. One thing though, loads of travel meant loads of grip on technical climbs!

Don't worry I won't be going for the 250, it's not far of double the frame weight, would have worse gearing and would only be marginally better on the downs, just not worth the trade offs.

That Tr250 does look nice, half tempted to buy it and some Boxxers. Then through all my compnents onto it when going to the Alps.

Hmmmmmmmmm.....temptation. Thanks a lot Paul, my bank account might be considerably worse off tommorow.

Bwaarp - don't look at the bottle rockets then. Can take anything from 160 to 200 I believe.

BottleRockets rule. Fact
Did 2 Whistler trips on them.
So much fun on jumpy trails

Someone up there said that cane creek dont do an angleset for 1.5 inch tapered steerers.

This is not true, they do one, and I have it installed on my Mojo HD (ZS44/28.6 | EC49/40)

Go for the Mojo HD.

Call me biased but here is what I would buy.

[url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nicolai-Helius-AM-frame-medium-black-ano-Fox-RP23-/230925027544?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D6072672078295308459%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D230925027544%26 ]Nicolai Helius AM[/url]

Here is my three year old one built up for DH fun.

[img] [/img]

In a more XC/Enduro/AM mode

[img] [/img]

Bwaarp... there is a package from Avalanche Racing about to be delivered to my house

Care you guess whats in it?

Based on what you've said I'd recommend a Meta SX

Bwaarp... there is a package from Avalanche Racing about to be delivered to my house

Git! 😀 Let me know what it's like!

Someone up there said that cane creek dont do an angleset for 1.5 inch tapered steerers.

That was in regard to tapered steerers in straight 44mm headtubes - you have a 44/49mm headtube.

You can fit tapereds and straight 1.5's into a Mega's 44mm headtube - you just can't use a cane creek angleset with them.

What do we know about the Cannondale Claymore and Jekyll, have found both at billy bargain price so could buy a complete bike rather than the frame. Both look intersting, just looking for reviews and some geometry info....

Bumpity, bump! Does anyone have experience of either the Cannondale Claymore or the Jekyll? Both are available half price and about the price of building up a Mega. Both could be decent options, but difficult to get any objective opinions on them. I guess they haven't sold well over here because they are expensive at RRP, but google isn't throwing up much either.

I think you're right Paul, those are pretty rare beasts here and reviews are scarce on the net. I doubt they are bad bikes though as Cannondale have good heritage in Enduro/AM with the animal Mark Weir racing for [url= http://www.chopmtb.com/2012/11/07/race-bike-mark-weirs-cannondale-jekyll/ ]them[/url]. See also[url= http://www.chopmtb.com/2012/10/10/race-bike-jerome-clementzs-cannondale-jekyll/ ] Jerome Clementz[/url]

[img] [/img]

Looks pretty good dousn't it 8)

Are the shocks reliable on those?

I wouldn't count on it. Get something with a standard shock - higher parts availability etc.

I've never had an issue with any shock and the reviews don't seem to mention any shock issues. I'm sure Cannondale would look after me anyway, so I'm not going to rule it out on those grounds. Leaning towards the Jekyll, Lyriks done to 170mm and slack it out by a degree or so at the headset. Dropper post. Should be pretty versatile, which I like.

Anyone want to buy some 150mm 32s with a 1.5" steerer? Thought not!

Propain Tyee so i know whether to buy one next winter...

paulrockliffe-any info on where the Jekylls are going 1/2 price?

They're on Paul's Cycles, they have some pretty good deals on Cannondales and Giants at the moment. I've pulled the pin on the Jekyll, so should be able to report if it's any good shortly....

The seals will go one day. I guess you can always replace the shock though.

The geo isn't so cut out for DH as the mega either (68 degree head angle etc) - but I guess at that price it's a decent buy.

[IMG] [/IMG]

ive got a brand new nomad for sale,£1400 with Fox ctd or dhx5.0 air.

Not for me thanks, not a fan of the Nomad and already spent up. Bought most of the bits needed to sort the Jekyll out - stronger wheels, Lyriks, wider bars, bashguard, Saint brakes. Just need a dropper and an angleset and it'll be sorted.

Good luck finding an angleset for the Jekyll.It uses an integrated headset 😕 I'd speak to works components.
Weir rides an xl (despite being 6')just to get a long enough tt and 180mm 36's to try and slacken the head angle.
Does'nt seem to bother Clementz too much though 😀
Make sure you get the shock serviced very regularly.....words of advice direct from mojo.

Not for me thanks, not a fan of the Nomad and already spent up. Bought most of the bits needed to sort the Jekyll out - stronger wheels, Lyriks, wider bars, bashguard, Saint brakes. Just need a dropper and an angleset and it'll be sorted.

Man, you might as well have just bought the right frame in the first place. A Mega with an air shock and coil shock, with coiled lyriks would have been a much smaller headache. Then you can still ride when the air shock invariably blows a seal and has to go in for a service. You can even service Monarchs yourself but I doubt you could with that complicated shock! It would have had the right geometry out the box and the frame is lighter!