[Closed] 10 Years Away, Advice?

Dropper post is pretty much essential (ok not quite, but they really do help a lot and it's regularly cited as the number one upgrade). Tubeless is good if you have the wheels and tyres for it. There is still some debate but generally accepted as the way to go. Well worth it if you get a lot of punctures, some (marginal) performance gains if you don't. It is more faff than tubes as there is a level of maintenance. Pedals is pretty personal but good flats (grippy and thin) and proper shoes will give great grip and be better for learning proper technique. I'd start there and once you have a few miles under your belt decide if clipless is for you. Can't think of much else that has drastically changed. Wider bars and long/low/slack geometry has made tech riding easier. Get used to moving your body round on the bike to make the most of it. There's a load of new standards so be careful when buying parts. Finally GPS tech and phone apps has moved on. Some great stuff there for training and finding new trails if that interests you.

Not much else has changed?? You must be kidding, I haven't bought a new mtb in years as i mostly road ride these days, and whilst i wasn't looking there is a whole host of new standards, I still have no idea what Boost and Boost+ is all about! Something to do with axles i think.

Well, yes, lots of new axle standards but it is still a bit of metal that goes through the middle of the hub. It shouldn't make any difference to your riding you just need to be careful if buying parts.

Already seen a few upgrades i’d like

Would be useful to list those. Your bike is a decent bike. Significant upgrades will end up costing more than you paid for it so I would just ride it as it is.

Yep, it's now a nightmare buying anything as nothing fits anything else any more.
Specifically for you OP, where do you live/ride? What sort of riding do you want to do?

Can’t think of much else that has drastically changed.

Followed immediately by

Wider bars and long/low/slack geometry has made tech riding easier. There’s a load of new standards so be careful when buying parts. Finally GPS tech and phone apps has moved on.

❓❓
My entire MTB (which is older than 10 years) is obsolete now - literally nothing from the current era of MTBing will fit it / work with it. If I bought a new MTB now it'd be learning to ride all over again on entirely different geometry.

In response to the OP though - just go out and ride and see what its like; no point upgrading stuff now in the middle of winter while you're still re-learning how to ride!

As for dropper posts and boost hubs I made sure to go with a bike that already had them. Granted the dropper post is bottom of the range but it give me a chance to get used to it before I upgrade.

I've always had flat pedals as I really don't get on with clips. 10 years ago i used to just ride DMR V8's or V12's (which to my amazement are still around!) but i'm just wondering it there's something better out there no i have more money to play with (That's not a boast, i'm just not a skint teenager anymore).

As for upgrades i've been looking at things that'll add a bit of personality to the all black bike but also made some difference:
Stem: Nukeproof Horizon
Grips: Nukeproof Horizon
Pedals: (you guessed it) Nukeproof horizon Sam Hill model
And possibly some hope brakes.

I've just revamped my 2013 Giant Trance x29er after almost 6 years away from mtbing.

No idea what boost, boost+, any of the other axle standards are either. Also, what is 29+?

Tyres seem to have gotten massively wider, was a nightmare getting the correct fitting dropper, and the 2 x 10 setup was a fairly new concept when I bought the bike. Is everyone 1 x 12 now?!

Paid £250 for my Garmin Edge 500 in a bout 2010....can't even find a USB cable to fit it now to see if it'll even charge!

....and stuff is stupid expensive now. I paid 1500 for my Trance X29er in 2013 and got a £150 dropper thrown in. Nowadays that bike seems to be more like £3-3.5k!!!

I'm in the peak district (UK) so mainly trails.
I plan on testing the bike out before changing anything but it's just worth knowing the new tech.

https://nsmb.com/articles/your-riding-posture-2006/

Well worth a quick read - technology is nothing without technique.

Yes they are talking about very difficult trails and high skill riders, but if your riding is anything more than seated pedalling around unpaved sustrans routes the concepts will apply.

IMO opinion dropper post is the greatest thing to happen to recreational xc/trail riding. I'd take a rigid bike with a drpper over a full suss without one any day of the week, for everything bar push up/uplifted downhill.

Get one and USE IT - basically any time you are stood up it should be (At least partially) down.

EDIT - see you have one, make sure its used right! Cheap ones may be heavier and a bit less nicely fitted out, and may not last as long, but functionally they work pretty much the same.

I went through this a couple years ago. The main thing for me was getting my head around how much more capable big wheels are. A lot of stuff you had to be careful of on 26" wheels to avoid snatching your front wheel away or getting thrown over the bars is now dispatched without a second thought.

Tubeless. Apart from avoiding flats, it lets you run lower pressures, which means more grip.

It's pretty easy to do and doesn't cost much.

Tubeless. Apart from avoiding flats, it lets you run lower pressures, which means more grip.

It’s pretty easy to do and doesn’t cost much.

The bike comes with tubeless ready tyres so I figured it's worth a go.

Tubeless a pretty cheap upgrade with compatible tyres already - just pickup some stan’s sealant, valves and possibly tape (depends if the rims are tubeless taped already or not). With 2.8 tyres lower pressures add lots of grip. That said your rear tyre is very lightly treaded for winter muddy riding.

I wouldn’t spend on Hope brakes personally - assuming you have a Judy with turnkey damping that’s the weakest spec on the bike - not the brakes. Something like a Bomber Z2 / Fox 34 / RS Revelation / RS Pike would give you a stiffer chassis that flexes less and turns better, plus a better damper and air spring that you can tune with tokens.

Horizon stem n pedals totally recommend, but maybe get lock on grips with a single collar.

assuming you have a Judy with turnkey damping that’s the weakest spec on the bike – not the brakes.

The forks aren't something i'd want to swap out right away with it being one of the most expensive parts of a bike to upgrade. I'll probably see how i get on with the Judy and upgrade to Pikes or revelations if i find them at a good price in the future.

maybe get lock on grips with a single collar.

Any reason you say a single collar rather than the sets with two?

Single collar is usually inboard you can can run your hands right to the edge of the grip. The Nukeproof Sam Hill grips are very fat I found - will work for some people but too big for my hands.

I prefer thinner ones - I did like Raceface Full Nelsons but I find they start creaking before the grips wear out. Have switched to thin / soft DMR Deathgrips and I’m preferring those / they don’t seem to be creaking prematurely.

I like grips with rubber going right to the end, some collars can have sharp edges for your little finger to catch, some reviews on CRC mention it as well as the caps falling off, alloy collars and end caps can scratch up easy and scratch up whatever you lean the bike against.

Ah great, the only reason I was into the grips is because they match the colour of the pedals. Now I'm back to square one.

I'm leaning towards DMR death grips atm but wanted something a little nicer than just a set of v12's to go with.

Any recommendations on pedal/grip combos in matching colours?
Burgtec seem to have some good kit, not one I'd heard of before?

I’d recommend a subscription to a good quality mtb magazine that will inspire you to ride even if your bike squeaks and has components that are made of cheese 😉

Failing that, grips and pedals are a good choice and Burgtec is popular, as is Nukeproof, especially if you want to colour match things. You’ve already got a dropper - I don’t know what one - but often the lever is the crappiest part of the dropper. You could maybe upgrade to something like a PNW loam lever (comes in matchy colours too!). Making your dropper easier to use at a moment’s notice means you use it more and it’s just more pleasant to use. Also: tyres to suit your conditions. Maybe your wardrobe could do with an update more than your bike? A really good waterproof jacket or shorts might add more pleasure to your rides than matching pedals and grips?

Buy stuff if it makes you happier, but be sure to cover it in mud at regular intervals for true delight!

that will inspire you to ride even if your bike squeaks and has components that are made of cheese

I had a bike that squeaked and had cheap components 10 years ago, which is probably why I want something I'm not constantly having to fix now. And don't worry, it'll get plenty of use.
With global supply delays it won't be delivered until next month though. So I'm probably just killing time!

It’s worth noting that the way to ride a bike has changed a fair bit compared to 10 years ago too. Whereas before you’d always be looking to get your bum waaay back to avoid an OTB when things got a bit sketchy, modern bike geo means you want to be in the ATTACK!!! position a lot more. At first it’s quite unnatural, but you soon learn how much better the bike works with a bit of weight over the front tyre (and realise that actually no, you’re not just about to go OTB).

Also, dropper. Also, shoes.

Pedals and grip collars in matching shades of anodising isn't even guaranteed if theyre from the same brand, I've got blue nukeproof horizon stem and seat clamp that aren't an exact match, Hope's floating rotors dont exactly colour match to their hubs either, DMR deathgrips do anodised collars seperate but they won't colour match their pedals.
I've got anodised bits from Hope, Nukeproof and Burgtec on my bike but some people are really anal and OCD about their finishing kit.

. Also, shoes

I've seen a lot of talk on shoes. Ive always ridden flats and probably always will as I ride for the enjoyment rather than setting times etc.

Before, I just wore a pair of Vans or etnies. I've seen a lot of people talking about five ten shoes but the £100+ price puts me off for something I'll only wear while I'm riding.

What are good options for flat pedals?

Five ten's are expensive but they're also the grippiest shoes out there. They sound expensive but mine have lasted for years in all conditions. Someone will be along in a minute to tell you they're made of soggy cardboard and they do take a long time to dry in the winter which is why I've just bought a shoe dryer for the garage. Sorted.

Do you really need exact matchy matchy grips / stem / pedals?

I’ve got Black Death grips but I do have red superstar Nano Evo pedals and a red Hope seat clamp. They aren’t an exact matchy but does it matter that much? I’d just buy what you think is the best component in each area that you can fit in budget and go for it.

On shoes 5-10’s are unbeatable for grip. I have tried a few other shoes / brands but nothing grips the same that I’ve tried so far. Freerider elements do go very soggy - I’ve got some shoe driers but they aren’t very punchy and take a few days to dry if they get biblically well. The shoe driers that blow loads of hot air like a hairdryer are probably much more effective than what I have. Shoe wise I also have some Adidas terrex that I use in really bad weather - they are grippy - but not in the same league as the freeriders. They dry out a lot quicker though.

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All of the colour matching, new grips/bars etc would be very low on my priorities list. Mine would be this:

Dropper
Tubeless/tyres
Fork

.....then a distant priority after that.
Brakes
Trick/lighter wheels
Pedals
Grips
Bar/stem.

Aesthetics are important, but unless its a bike for pleasuring oneself with, ride quality should always come first.

All of the colour matching, new grips/bars etc would be very low on my priorities list. Mine would be this:

Dropper
Tubeless/tyres
Fork

…..then a distant priority after that.
Brakes
Trick/lighter wheels
Pedals
Grips
Bar/stem.

I'd have to strongly disagree with you on that one.
the best forks and a dropper post are no good at all if you've fallen off the bike. Your grips and pedals are your main points of contact with the bike and affects how you feel where the grip is.

You’ve already got a dropper – I don’t know what one – but often the lever is the crappiest part of the dropper. You could maybe upgrade to something like a PNW loam lever (comes in matchy colours too!).

That's something for me to note when I pay for and collect my new hardtail in a couple of months. Thanks Hannah.

Edit. Having read the 2006 posture article some instruction would also be good. Who do we recommend for re-learning the basics ie not hucking gaps or managing Northshore?

Ukbikeskills. (Jedi on here)

He’s got gaps and north shore as well, but is really good at the basics

It’s all just riding bikes isn’t it? Tubeless is probably the only thing I think has made a quantifiable difference to mountain biking. You can get by without droppers, without changes of components, without 1x, without 12 (and 11 speed) just get out and ride the bike and enjoy it.

Its a great time to buy a mountain bike, you'll be getting a bike that is what you'd get if someone stated with a blank piece of paper and designed mountain bike from scratch rather than still having carry over from road bikes. The only thing left to sort is getting rid of the rear mech .

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The only thing left to sort is getting rid of the rear mech

Only if the alternative is neither singlespeed nor Röhlhoff. For the former I'm too fragile of knee and would like to ride into my 70's, the latter is just a hefty counterweight that upsets the bike balance.

The only thing left to sort is getting rid of the rear mech

Only if the alternative is neither singlespeed nor Röhlhoff. For the former I’m too fragile of knee and would like to ride into my 70’s, the latter is just a hefty counterweight that upsets the bike balance.

I had singlespeed on one of my previous bikes but only because it was just for dirt jumps. You'd have to drag me back kicking and screaming though...