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Probably a daft question, but... I was wondering if it's ok to just get 10 speed shifters, rear mech, cassette and chain, while keeping a 9 speed chainset and front mech?
My understanding is that the internal diameter of the 10sp chain is the same as the 9sp (so it'd be ok on a 9sp chainring), it's just the plates being thinner which results in the external diameter of the chain links being narrower to fit the 10sp cassette spacings.
And would a 9sp front mech shift the chain ok? For that matter, is there a difference in cable pull between a 9sp and 10sp front shifter?! Questions, questions...
Advice appreciated - especially from anyone who's already done this!
Oh yeah - this'd be on Shimano.
You'll be fine with a 9 speed front mech, as for the chainrings iirc they will *work*, just shifting wont be as smooth as if you had 10 speed ones. You can use any shifter you want on the front too.
Think you may also get away with using the old rear mech too - although you 'may' need new jockey wheels
You defo need the rear mech - its a different actuation ratio.
Hmmm - I'd be careful about that. The shifter is the important bit - methinks the marketing gods may be trying to make people spend more than is needed
You might be right about it but a mech just moves in response to a cable pulling it. It doesn't matter what the actuation ratio is - that just translates a movement in the shifter to a relative movement of the mech. The ratio isn't 'implemented' within the mech.
If you're on a budget I'd give it a go. Worst that can happen is you need a new mech but you might save some cash
You might be right about it but a mech just moves in response to a cable pulling it. It doesn't matter what the actuation ratio is - that just translates a movement in the shifter to a relative movement of the mech. The ratio isn't 'implemented' within the mech
🙄
We are right about it. You can't use a SRAM mech with Shimano shifters, and you can't use 9 and 10 interchangeably without serious bodging. Of course the actuation ratio matters.
Njee20 is right.
The leverage employed by the actuation arm on the mech may well be different.
Feel free to try though.
Front shifting wont be as good and you may have to over shift slightly.
Don't think I was saying mix and match SRAM and shimano....you can't on the rear but it works fine on the front
Happy to be proved wrong on this but I'm just slightly sceptical given how new tech / marketing companies work. If no-one buys it how do they recover the development costs??
Seen it when 8speed came out and again when 9speed came out. If you've done it and have the experience then I bow down to your collective wisdom, but given that some people work on very limited budgets I'd be inclined to try it and only spend the cash if you need to.
Don't think I was saying mix and match SRAM and shimano....you can't on the rear but it works fine on the front
Do you understand why you can't mix and match SRAM? Because that's exactly the same reason you can't mix and match 9 and 10 speed...
7/8/9 were all the same, and Shimano road 10 speed is the same - they are all interchangeable. MTB 10 speed is not. We've been doing this for 3 years now, it's not new technology!
You might as well go the whole hog and not bother with the 10 speed cassette. Just pretend it's got an extra click.
8 and 9 speed mechs have the same actuation ratio, so you only needed to change the shifter, not the mech as well. 10 speed mtb mechs use a different actuation ratio, hence new shifter and mech.
Do try to keep up 😉
I put spokee dokees on my single speed and pretend I've got SRAM XX1
Makes me happy
10sp [b]ROAD[/b] flat-bar shifters will work a 9sp mech and allow it to run a 10sp cassette
The 9sp mechs only "just" manage a 36t cassette though, so it's a bit noisy on the 36. It is the cheapest way to try 10sp though and it works for me.
(addit: Bear in mind that if you later make a full change to mtb 10spd mech you'll have to buy a mtb 10sp shifter as well)
Why bother? What's the advantage?
I have 10 speed on my latest bike and find the rear cassette becomes clogged up with snow very quickly leaving only the larger 3 cogs working effectively. The chains last about half the time of 9 speed as well. When this cassette wears out I'll be changing it all to 9 speed.
The chains last about half the time of 9 speed as well.
Not found this in the slightest I must say. After 3 years on 10 speed I've noticed precisely zero difference in durability! With 1x10 chains last far longer than they did on 2x9 in fact.
You might be right about it but a mech just moves in response to a cable pulling it. It doesn't matter what the actuation ratio is - that just translates a movement in the shifter to a relative movement of the mech. The ratio isn't 'implemented' within the mech.
😉
Your in for a frustrating time trying to get a 9spd mech to work with a 10spd shifter & cassette. Trust me, I've tried. You can get some gears to mesh but it skips elsewhere. The least kit you need is shifter, mech, chain & cassette. (About £100 from bikediscount.de IIRC.)
Biggest advantage of 10spd is the 36t option. For a lot of folk it makes running a single ring up front an option.
That 36t thing is the reason I was looking at a 10sp option but then I saw this on CRC.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31059
A 9 Speed cassetee that goes to 36t - havent tried it yet but it's worth a look at.
It weighs a ton, and you don't have an 11 - so you just compromise at the other end. You can replace the 12t sprocket with an 11, but you then have a massive jump at the top end.
They did a 9spd 36t before, but it weighed loads. Plus, if you have a Pro2 (or other alloy) freehub they dont take kindly to cassettes that dont use an alloy spider, & the cogs end up digging in.
Other downside it the 12t. You'll be spinning out very quickly with a 32 up front.
Good spot though, & be perfect for my cargo-bike when I change the cassette.
The sceptical will say that not offering 11-36 is Shimano's way of forcing folk to go 10spd. 😐
12-36t gives less range than 11-34t, so you'll get a better range by going down a chainring size and using an 11-34 than keeping the same size and going 12-36.
Hi folks. Thanks for all the advice, I'll give it a go in the configuration I'd been thinking about then, sounds like it'll work.
LOL at Mackem and at tmb467's spokee dokees 😀
Nice tip from scaredypants, will bear that in mind for future bike re-congfigs. I got some of the SLX 10sp shifter pairs off CRC in that great deal the other day and have got a good deal on a near-new 10sp rear mech so just need the cassette + chain now.
Re the 12-36t 9sp cassette - I've run one of those on my Fargo when doing loaded up trips, and yes, they do chew the freehub quickly. I take it off for normal riding. It's a good enough compromise though for that bike.