[Closed] 1 X 9 chain drop FFS

bash guard on the outside and N-Gear jump stop on the inside works perfectly well for me.

http://n-gear.com/whatis.html

this pic actually shows a 32t bash guard just after I'd changed to a 36t chain ring.. get the right size bash and it works a treat.

[IMG] [/IMG]

You need an Unramped chainring.

for never losing a chain?
e-13 guide ring and e-13 SRS worked flawlessly for me.
Not the cheapest solution but works

Mike

e-13's unit like this? -

[img] [/img]

I had kind of hoped the bottom roller of the Gamut might have kept some tension, but clearly not.

How many times will this question be asked. For 1x9/10/11 you NEED:
- unramped chainring
- some kind of guide (as a minimum a top guide, I prefer something like an MRP G2 with top and bottom guides)
- the correct length chain

This will work. Honest. Any form of p*ssing around with ramped middle chainrings and inadequate chainguides will just not work... (I've been there and done it - quickly got madly annoyed with it and spent a bit of cash and did it properly).

this is the new one
[img] [/img]

Is the guide you're using not meant for double chainring use? It won't work at all for 1x use because it has no top guide- it's meant to work with 2 chainrings and a front mech, which will keep the chain on up top.

You'll need one of the top guides suggested above (the e13 ones are the best IME).

Cheers guys

I guess I was being optimistically naive with what I'd cobbled together.

As this is a frankenbike bodge of old left over parts, I'm not going to do dedicated rings. I'll grab one of the e13's to see how tonight's return trip fares, otherwise I might 'revert' back to 2 X 9.

My other bikes are pucker 2 X 10 but this is an experiment with a 'play' bike.

The chainring should work ok, not ideal but adequate.
Just chuck on a superstar chain top guide, either bb mount or one of the seattube mount ones, cheapest way of doing it and i've never dropped a chain with mine. No need for anything else really.

(PS- I have an e13 guide for sale, XCX in black BB mount. £15. Any good?)

I've found a normal unramped ring doesn't make much difference over a shifting ring... Decent chain device or clever thick/thin ring absolutely essential. The Superstar one works OK but if you can stretch to it then it's definitely worth going for a E13 XCX or an MRP 1X, they're slightly better than the Superstar, but also far easier to get good results out of.

MRP 1X and an on-one chainring works for me.

I have a spare chain device if you want to borrow one.

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/CROOSS/on_one_stainless_chainring

I am sure others are available.

Thanks munro but being Mr impatient I'm hoping to get this fixed before tonight's ride home. If it's good, I'll then use this wagon tomorrow to throw myself at the scenery round the Brighton Big Dog course.

[edit]

Thanks Mark but see above

No problem.

Best thing for keeping the chain on:

http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/works-components-104bcd-thick--thin-chainring-alternating-thickness-extended-tooth-design-270-p.asp

Or Raceface, from the usual sources (same, little more expensive, but in stock right away)

My Works one is still awesome after a few months riding 🙂

Generally recommended:
-Un-ramped ring, something with a nice deep tooth profile - middleburn/RF/E13?
-Top Guide, MRP, superstar
-Shorten chain to minimum Number of links for largest sprocket (+2)

Optional ideas:
-Lower Roller, Blackspre stinger?
-Go 1x10 just for the clutch mech?
-Posh thick/thin or XX1 type chainring?

Cheapest way I found is to just leave front mech on an get it as low as possible. Better tryin that to see if u like before spending money I find