 You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Decided to replace my 3 x 9 with 1 x 10, I wasn't using granny or top ring nearly enough so fancied trying a change. I got an xt cassette 11-36 with a hope t-rex 40 tooth ring to swap out the 17th ring with. I got an sram 1051 ten speed chain, xt clutch mech, and a 32t on one ring master NW chainring, plus a 10 speed xt shifter. Well put them all on today and shortened the chain but with a 51mm chain line the chain just leaped off the chain ring in cassette rings near either extreme. Made sure clutch was on and it was. Did a chain length calculation but it came up massive, as it couldn't cope with 32 40 teeth ring as it doesn't consider the clutch. Did a lot of tinterweb reading and went and took two more links out the chain. Still wanted to come off the chainring, so took it for a quick spin and it's settling in now, black colouring wearing off the wide teeth fast.
Have others had similar problems or is it just an over wide ring master and under wide 1051 chain combination? Nobody mentions problems with hope or race face rings in their reviews.
Nope, never had an issue anything like that. Haven't used the onone narrow-wide mind but it's hard to imagine there's anything wrong with it considering their R&D was probably "buy someone else's and copy it", like most other narrow/wides...
Chainlengthwise, imo the only sensible thing to do, is to do it right- put it in the lowest gear, set it that way, forget about calculators or "remove 2" or whatever. If it's a full suss either remove the spring/air, or just unbolt the shock entirely and cycle it through all the travel. With 1x10 and a range expander you want it as short as it can be.
Is it a new mech? Mechhanger straight?
Lastly- with a standard mech, setup is bloody fiddly. The OneUp rad cage makes that miles easier, but does add extra cost.
Mmm im sure on-one had an issue with some 32t ringmasters at first, did you buy it a long time ago?
Two pieces of advice Ive found from a couple of years of messing about with 1x.
First, move your chain line over by moving 1 spacer from the drive to non-drive side of the BB, which will help correct the chain line a bit. Second, controversially and contrary to most other advice I would lengthen not shorten your chain. If your chains tend to throw from the underside of the ring, I have found that running a longer chain helps reduce the angle of the chain exiting the ring, which kills the grind as well as aids chain retention. Changing the chain length won't fix it throwing from the top I have found.
With a 40T ring you should be able to run any mech on an HT, and anything other than a zee/saint on an FS no worries. Set up is normally a breeze and you won't need special b tension screws or the like, in fact you won't even need to screw the current one all the way in. Only thing to watch is that the chain will catch the cable arm on forged mechs like XT occasionally. SLX/Zee are better for this as the folded plate has more clearance.
Just had a quick search and couldn't find any info. Maybe im talking jibba jabba.
I have the same set up on my fat bike except I run a shimano chain and it works perfectly. The On One chainring is a little noiser than the XX1 on my other bike, but for all intents and purposes is just as good.