Shamans, saunas, and salmon sauteed at endless sunset are just some of the things awaiting Martin Bissig and the Gehrig twins on their gravel exploration of Lapland.
Words and photos Martin Bissig
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Smoke scratches at our lungs as the flames of the fire flicker in the eye of the stuffed raven. The sharp teeth of the dried pikefish seem ready to snap any second, as a loud noise from the darkness reverberates through the small cabin where we’re seated in a circle. The door creaks open and in steps a towering man, dressed in leather and fur. “Long, looong ago, giants lived here and hurled stones – boulders as big as houses,” he begins, his voice deep and slow.
We’re visiting a shaman somewhere in the wilderness of Finnish Lapland, far above the Arctic Circle. We listen intently to his stories. “Do you know where the Northern Lights come from?” the healer asks us. We don’t, but we’ve got a full week to find out for ourselves.
Our base is the small town of Levi. From October to April, this place is a winter sports mecca for athletes as snow and sub-zero temperatures are guaranteed. Now, in late autumn, the town feels deserted. The temperature and weather forecast, however, promise ideal conditions for our gravel exploration. I’m joining twin sisters Caro and Anita Gehrig on their adventure. In the mountain biking scene, these Swiss sisters are well known and rank among the best enduro racers on the planet. Since opening their own hotel last year, they’ve cut back on racing. “Now we have more time for cool projects like this,” Caro laughs. Multi-day rides covering hundreds of kilometres are nothing new for these former pros, and I didn’t have to do much convincing to get them on board with my plan to explore northern Finland on gravel bikes.
Lapland: Made for Gravel Bikes?
Our first loop starts in Ylläs. Just a few kilometres in, it’s clear that the trails we’re riding, which are used by hikers and mountain bikers in the warmer months, double as cross-country ski tracks in the winter. We climb steadily on wide rugged paths up to the highest point of the fell. From just under 400m above sea level, we have a perfect view of the area. The nearest ski resort rises a few hundred metres higher, standing out against the flat landscape. Forests stretch as far as the eye can see, with only occasional signs of civilisation in the form of log cabins or small villages. We switch from wide gravel paths to narrow singletrack winding through the forest.
“Now I get why blueberry juice is Finnair’s signature drink,” Anita shouts to me from the bushes. She’s parked her bike against a tree and is crouched down, munching on blueberries. The berries are everywhere – a seemingly endless supply of free vitamins, right alongside the best trails. Our well-deserved break not only fills our stomachs but also turns our tongues blue-violet. But we don’t have time for a long pause; the sun, which hangs low all day this time of year, is slowly approaching the horizon. We want to reach a lakeside fire pit in the national park by nightfall. Riding on sandy trails, we arrive at the beach after a few more kilometres. The last rays of sunlight filter through the yellow-brown leaves, bathing the scene in a warm, golden glow. We couldn’t have picked a better spot to cook our salmon over an open fire. As darkness falls, we gaze expectantly at the night sky. “Do you think we’ll see Northern Lights tonight?” Anita asks. Chances aren’t great, as clouds are moving in. Sadly, the twins’ wish to witness the natural phenomenon doesn’t come true that evening. Luckily, we still have a few nights left.
Downhill Trails on Gravel Bikes
Levi is home to one of the northernmost bike parks in the world. The trail crew kindly invites us to try it on loaned downhill bikes, but the sisters politely decline. “If it’s doable on downhill bikes, it should be doable on gravel bikes too,” they suggested back in Switzerland. So, we leave the full-face helmets behind and hit the ‘Santa Claus Hut’ trail on skinny tyres with saddlebags. And it turns out, the track is well maintained and, even without suspension, totally manageable – especially for former enduro pros. A few steep berms and wooden ramps later, we come across an old hut. It doesn’t just look like a movie set, it actually is one! One of Finland’s most famous Christmas movies was filmed right here, long before the nearby bike park jumps were built. “This is exactly how I pictured Finland,” Caro says, snapping a photo of her sister in front of the hut.
Right now, the weather is also being unusually kind to us. The strong wind has temporarily shut down the lifts, but it’s also blown away the clouds and bad weather. While people back home in central Europe are welcoming the first snow of the year, we’re riding in T-shirts at over 20° Celsius, far above the Arctic Circle in autumn. Crazy weather!
From Salmon to Sauna to Shaman
A sauna visit is a must in Finland. There are about half as many saunas in the country as there are people, which means not only does every household have one, but so does every forest hut and holiday cabin by a lake or river. At ‘Arctic Sauna World’, we experience first-hand that not all saunas are the same. This public facility offers themed rooms representing the elements: fire, water, earth and air. One thing that stands out immediately to us Swiss visitors: unlike at home, public saunas in Finland are entered with (some) clothing – not naked. We narrowly avoid a major faux pas, thanks to our guide and friend, Aapo, who gives us a heads-up!
In Finland, saunas are social gatherings, like a trip to the beach or pool back home. Three bare Swiss behinds wouldn’t have exactly helped with cultural exchange! After a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear lake, we’re rejuvenated and ready for a spiritual encounter. A genuine Lappish shaman welcomes us for an audience in his log cabin. The lakeside atmosphere couldn’t be more fitting. The sun shines dramatically between clouds and the treeline, and a cool breeze whips across our faces. We sit inside the fire-warmed cabin as the shaman, a little imposing but entirely captivating, shares stories of his ancestors. We learn about his life as a fisherman and hunter and listen to the legend of how the Northern Lights came to be. “A giant fox prowls through the Polar Winter forest, its tail sweeping side to side. The sparks it creates fly into the sky and appear as the Northern Lights, which we call ‘Foxfire’,” he explains in his deep voice. “If you’d like, I can call upon the spirits and try to wake the fox,” he adds. “Absolutely. Let’s go outside and see if it works,” Anita replies eagerly. The shaman drums and murmurs, blowing glowing embers toward the ceiling with his eyes closed. A few minutes later, we step out into the night and stare at the sky. And indeed: what initially looks like a veil of clouds reveals itself in the deepening dark as a faint aurora. Not especially bright, but there. “Must be a little fox,” Caro laughs. Let’s hope we see larger foxes in the nights to come.
Packrafting – The Right Way!
The following days are spent seeking out the best gravel trails. Aapo has already shared some of his favourite GPS routes. The Gehrig twins don’t mind the occasional hikeabike section if it means uncovering trail gems that likely haven’t seen many gravel tyres. We cross bridges and pass deep blue lakes, wading barefoot through knee-deep streams at times. “There’s probably no better place to combine packrafting with biking,” Aapo tells us as he inflates the small boats. Rather than riding around a medium-sized lake, we decide to paddle across. The inflatable kayaks are new territory for Anita and Caro, but with their compact pack size (about as big as a small sleeping bag), they’re perfect for land-and-water adventures. Even as paddle novices, they have the boats ready in minutes. After dismantling the bikes and securing them with straps, we’re ready to set sail. The twins love it after their water baptism. “Can we do this again tomorrow?” they ask Aapo. No problem in the land of rivers and lakes! The next morning, we paddle ten kilometres downstream and ride back to our cabin.
The Foxfire Burns Bright
My Aurora app forecasts an ‘excellent’ chance of seeing Northern Lights on our final evening. A clear sky and high solar storm activity create ideal conditions. After our last dinner together, we keep our eyes glued to the night sky. A faint green glow appears. Tonight might be the night. We drive to the highest, darkest point in the area: the summit of Levi’s ski resort. And sure enough, as the night deepens, the Aurora Borealis begins to dance. We walk the last few metres on foot, surrounded by flickering lights. “Look here! And there! And over there!” I shout excitedly. Although it’s not my first time, the spectacle never loses its magic. The sisters are speechless. We couldn’t have asked for a better end to our gravel adventure. The Gehrig twins’ wish to see the Northern Lights for the first time has come true. Whether it was thanks to the shaman’s magic words is up for debate. But one thing’s for sure: Finland has cast its spell on us. The rugged nature, endless trails, welcoming people, and – last but not least – excellent reindeer steaks make it a place worth visiting, with or without the Northern Lights.
Best Time to Visit
The ideal months for gravel biking adventures are June through September. Temperatures are pleasant, though there are many mosquitoes from June to mid-August. Northern Lights sightings are more likely from September onward, though temperatures are cooler.
Getting There
The region is accessible via airports in Kittilä, Rovaniemi, and Ivalo. From there, Levi can be reached by bus or rental car. International flights usually connect through Helsinki.
Climate
Lapland has a subarctic climate with short, mild summers and long, cold winters. In autumn, daytime temperatures often range from 5–15°C, while nights can drop quickly.
Guided Gravel Tours
Swiss tour operator Bike Adventure Tours offers guided gravel trips to Finnish Lapland.
