Chamonix to Zermatt | Tito Tomasi, Joey Schusler and Thomas Woodson
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Chamonix to Zermatt | Tito Tomasi, Joey Schusler and Thomas Woodson

May 1, 2020

Tito Tomasi reports on a trip from Chamonix to Zermatt that he did in 2018 with Joey Schusler and Thomas Woodson – complete with gorgeous photos and dizzying video.

Joey loves adventure and me too

My story with Joey started with exchanging messages about his trip to Peru, when he rode the Huayhuash range a few years after me. Since then I’ve been following his incredible work and path into MTB adventure. We met in New Zealand and could share a few rides – it was rad to finally meet and talk, lots of energy was going through that meeting. Later I gave him the route for his adventure in Georgia and Joey helped me in Colorado while I attempted the Colorado trail in 2016. And we kept talking about a trip together, waiting for an opportunity. 

Around spring 2018 we talked about doing something together in the Alps for the summer. On my side some projects were cancelled so I had some time in the summer so I started to work on an itinerary, something exciting and epic. Then Joey called me to confirm he was coming in August with Thomas Woodson.

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Chamonix to Zermatt, we might need a better map.

Arriving in Annecy

Thomas and Joey landed in Geneva a few days before our trip, I picked them up and took them home to build the bikes and offer them a good local meal. At this point our plan wasn’t 100% clear, I proposed a couple of options to them, but the traverse Chamonix to Zermatt was their first choice. Than we talked about the night options: camping with gear, or refuges or something wild light and fast! Guess which option we opted for! 

I was living around Annecy at this time and decided it was the perfect playground to help them acclimatize. So we rode a fun technical loop around the lake before heading to Chamonix for a wild bivouac in town. The ride had some big steep climbs and rough downhills, with hike a bike and switchbacks. A relatively good combination to show the alpine style and trails.

Vertigo inducing video!

The next morning I parked my truck at a friend’s place and we started our trip. On day one we rode from Chamonix to Le Tour to get the lift and cross the border at Balme’s col. Entering Switzerland on a beautiful trail going into the next valley we waved at the majestic Mont Blanc, leaving France the spirit of the trip was here. Crossing the valley and going forward! The next section of trails to reach Martigny was pretty technical and had exposure in the woods. We got lost and rode a bunch but made it to the small town of Martigny. From there we had lunch and took a first train to the bottom of Verbier where we used another lift to go over the resort and dive into the next valley. We rode to La Tzoumaz on a sweet trail and found this tiny village. After a short talk with the people from the small restaurant they decided to help us for the night, so we could sleep in the local nature exhibit and visitor centre! The people from the bar lent us some blankets and pillows and that made our first night. Sleeping here surrounded by dead animals and the exhibition was weird and fun and in the morning we had to leave before the first kids!

For the second day our goal was to reach the beautiful village of Evolene, a classic in that district of Switzerland, the Wallis. I knew the day was going to be long as we were looking at an itinerary that was crossing a couple of valleys – and no lift this time. But the team was pumped and sun already warm this morning, so we left La Tzoumaz and started our first part. Passes and trails all day! A truly beautiful day traveling on trail. When we arrived in Evolene by the end of the afternoon the rain was starting. So we went to the restaurant to have a classic local fondue. This one they make in a big piece of bread to hold the melted cheese with a small fire at the bottom, so you use the bread to dip in the cheese and slowly everything goes down. Delicious!

After a good night the sun was back and we started our third day on the trails. Crossing passes, light and fast we had some serious climbs to complete and the weather was threatening! We arrived in Saint Luc in the storm, the typical summer storm you find in the mountains. Arriving tired but stoked in Saint Luc we found a small and picturesque hotel for shelter. 

On day four we had the goal to cross two valleys and reach the last one before Zermatt, named Gruben. We decided to buy some food and try a sketchy bivy for the night, aiming for some log cabins on the map under the Augstbord pass around 2500 meters high. So we rode all day and had some pretty epic downhill from the alpine crest lines to the mountain jungle down under. It was a fun day. Our last climb to the cabin was a fantastic effort trying to escape from the storm. But when we reached out the cabins we quickly realised they were all closed. Seeing the storm going for us we had to make a call and decided to ask help at the barn 300 meters of elevation below us. The rain was seriously pouring when we showed up at the house, looking miserable. The owners offered us to enter and protect our bikes. We spend the evening with this nice Swiss couple and they offered us to stay, but they wouldn’t believe we were actually looking for a bivouac spot at the cabins up there. We shared the cheese and wine we had before a restful night. I was stoked to show the hospitality of the Alps to my friends, but also the life we have in the mountains with farms, villages and trails.

On the fifth day we are entered Zermatt valley after a solid climb to the Augstbord pass at 2800 meters and a nice alpine downhill. The last part was a flowy trail built centuries ago and following a balcony above the valley. It was beautiful. We crossed a tremendous and typical village before the very last part, where the trail was carved into the cliff. So nice! We rode in the valley for a while before hopping onto the train to Zermatt. Riding in the valley we could see the mighty Matterhorn, or Cervin in italian, the beautiful peak is so famous and can be seen from far. That was the signal for us that our Chamonix to Zermatt mission was accomplished.

In town over lunch, chat made it pretty clear that we had to take the train for the Gornergrat the next day and ride from the top of the valley to bottom! So we decided to stay in town for the night but to camp and pay for the train instead of a hotel! 

First step, the supermarket to get some food, beers and cardboard. 

Second step, find a barn or a shelter above town.

Third step, get a shower in the ice cold river. Chill and sleep. 

Bonus day, in Zermatt from 3000 meters to 650!

A Mazot is a small log cabin use to store straw during the winter, a historical construction and a perfect spot for a sketchy bivy. At 6am we leave early to catch the first train to the top and contemplate the breathtaking view. The place is dominated by some impressive glaciers and faces some big mountains, with the Cervin on our right. An epic photo session and a more than epic downhill all the way back to town. With variety and vistas, it was really good. But the part from town to Visp, at the bottom of the valley was a surprise. And it was just awesome! Fast, fun, long and beautiful. 

Arriving into civilisation was strange. After pizza we jumped into a train to Martigny and then on to Chamonix. This was the end of our Chamonix to Zermatt trip. After more than 250 kilometres of trails together we were back at the beginning and it was time to separate. Joey and Thomas were staying a few days in Chamonix and I was driving to La Grave with my wife to start another little bike trip. Summer is never long enough and every week is a great opportunity for something beautiful.

Life is a chance.

Tito

Chamonix to Zermatt, The Route

  • Day one – Chamonix to La Tzoumaz. 45Km 1542M
  • Day two – La Tzoumaz to Evolene. 52km 2360m
  • Day three –  Evolene  to Saint Luc. 44Km 2300m
  • Day four – Saint Luc to Gruben. 35Km 2245m
  • Day five – Gruben to Zermaat. 22.5km 1023m
  • Day six – BONUS – Zermaat to Visp. 53Km 530m
Chamonix to Zermatt

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Hannah Dobson

Managing Editor

I came to Singletrack having decided there must be more to life than meetings. I like all bikes, but especially unusual ones. More than bikes, I like what bikes do. I think that they link people and places; that cycling creates a connection between us and our environment; bikes create communities; deliver freedom; bring joy; and improve fitness. They're environmentally friendly and create friendly environments. I try to write about all these things in the hope that others might discover the joy of bikes too.

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