Seatube reaming.......
 

[Closed] Seatube reaming..... any ideas for a bodge?

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I'm building-up a charge duster that I bought on here a while ago. So far so good - really happy with the powdercoating from Triple S.

However, trying to fit the seat-post (27.2) last night, I couldn't get more than a few inches into the frame before it wouldn't go any further. I didn't gt it stuck - but I fear it would have if I'd have tried to push it further.

I think the frame may have previously had a seat-post stuck in it, and as a result the inside of the seat tube is a bit "furred-up". Any ideas about how to address this?

my current plan involves a bit of wet-and-dry paper on a stick..... anyone got any better ideas?

Ta

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 8:20 am
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Mount the stick in a drill, use fine paper.

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 8:25 am
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Flap wheel in a drill

[img] [/img]

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 8:27 am
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Flapper wheel in a drill works well, but you may have to do a mini-bodge to get more than a couple of inches in...

Edit: damn your fingers, nickjb - and with a pic, too!

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 8:27 am
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If your going out your way to buy a flapper wheel and then create some sort of sturdy extension to mount it so it can go in far enough... may as well go and get a bike shop to do it.

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 8:36 am
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I'd go the lbs and let them do it with a reamer

wet and dry on a broom handle will clean it a bit but if there's any significant lumps it'll take a while and you may end up with an uneven seat tube.

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 8:41 am
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You can bodge a ream with an old seatpost but I wouldn't do it on a decent frame - you define what decent is.

Basically, get a cheap seatpost of the right size and using a hacksaw or a file cut teeth into the end - basically making the end of the post pointy. Then just turn it slowly in the frame to clear out the 'fur'.

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 8:58 am
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thanks for the replies chaps..... I took it to my LBS to get faced, and it took me a while to explain to them what that was, and I had to wait while they ordered the tool 😯

Looking to do this tonight, so may go the way of a flappy drill - screwfix is on the way home.

Watch out for a later post: "help - how to remove flapper wheel from seat tube!"

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:08 am
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[i]I had to wait while they ordered the tool[/i]

I guess that's a plus and a minus;

minus - they didn't have one already

plus - they were prepared to invest in a tool for what's clearly not a job they do very often...

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:10 am
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Yeah: I'm not expecting them to have a reaming kit!

Anyway - I'm happy to have a go myself.... whats the worst that could happen?!?

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:25 am
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you **** up a frame that woudl have been fine had the right tool for the job been used 😉

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:26 am
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wwaswas - Member
I had to wait while they ordered the tool

I guess that's a plus and a minus;

minus - they didn't have one already

plus - they were prepared to invest in a tool for what's clearly not a job they do very often...

batfink - Member

it took me a while to explain to them what that was,

Second quote = "The LBS didn't have a clue" = "Go somewhere else or DIY"

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:35 am
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Well..... who knew that there was a website called [url= http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/Flap_Wheels_Long_Reach_.html ]"the polishing shop"[/url]?

30mm flap wheel (240 grit) and a 200mm shaft for £4.71... worth a punt!

you **** up a frame

yeah yeah yeah..... I'll be gentle with her, I promise 😀

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:40 am
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A flex hone is what you probably want - a bit like a flap wheel but specifically designed for cleaning up inside tubes so it's a lot longer...

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:51 am
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Buy the right tool?

Thats just the handle! I would need to by the handle (your link) for £36, then the matching reamer - also £36. Total £72. Lets not also mention that the 27.2 reamer is out of stock 🙄

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:55 am
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Reamer a very bad idea unless you really know what you're doing - 0.1mm too big, and you'll need a new seatpost. If it's just crud in there, then the flex hone is the way to go - that's what I always use on frames that come back from the powdercoaters.

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 9:58 am
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I've done the broom handle and emery cloth trick on a few frames and it works a treat. A scotchbrite pad is also a pretty useful addition, as is a round file if there are any big lumps to take out.

Slowly slowly catchy monkey etc etc.

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 10:02 am
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Good tip Ben, thanks. Is this what you mean [url= http://www.easupplies.com/FLEXHONE-TOOL-BC64M12-Flexible-Honing-Brush-p/ab1274.htm ]Flex Hone[/url]?

Comes with a min order of 2.... anyone interested in one?

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 10:03 am
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That's the beastie, yes 😉

Maybe your LBS could do with one?

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 10:05 am
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It isn't something silly like you need a 27mm seat tube is it?
Home made reamer out of a correct size seatpost with 4 slots cut up it(burrs removed) is my favourite.
The flapper wheel will take off material from places that are already to size as well as the under-size areas.

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 10:05 am
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It isn't something silly like you need a 27mm seat tube is it?

nah, it defo takes a 27.2.... and it goes in a few inches then steadily gets jammed. When I got the frame it looks like it'd had a post stuck in it previously, so wouldn't be suprised if it was a but furred-up (it's a steel frame).

I've cheaped-out and gone for the flap wheel! Will be super-gentle with it...... extremely low rpm for a few seconds only. Will report back in a few days

 
Posted : 25/05/2012 10:17 am